Dobar dan Lj,
I was a first time walker and used Bierley's guidebook. Unfortunately, I've lost the guidebook (uuugggg!!!!), so this list might be incomplete. I reviewed my journal for information. The accommodations were satisfactory unless otherwise noted. If no price is mentioned, I couldn't remember. I did not have any bed bugs at any of these locations. South of Porto most are private albergues not public. No need to reserve south of Porto. Arrows are mostly good. Got lost walking out of Tomar. Even
Brierly's mentions bad arrows there. Still missed it!
Moscavida Youth hostel. A short first day walk. My plane arrived in the morning and I started walking from downtown. Metro is easy. This shortened the first stage. 15-16 Euros? The Cathedral Se was OUT of Pilgrim Credentials. Buy one via mail before you go.
Alverca. A 1/2 km before the railroad station (you see it straight ahead), take the overpass to the left into town. This takes you off the Camino. There are several pensions there.
Azambuja. The Pilgrim albergue in town was locked! The market that was supposed to keep the key did not have it, did not know where it was, and did not care. Ended up at Flora Hotel. Two of us shared a room for 15 Euros each, or 20 for a single bedroom. Others stayed at Bombeiros Voluntarios.
Muge. This stop made 2 easy stages out of one longer one. Stayed at the Quinta coming into the small town. I was misled by Bierly's map and stayed walking on the highway. Somewhere I missed an arrow which would have taken me right by the Quinta. I don't think it's used much (run down) and the manager is not always there. No wi-fi. No hot water. 15 Euros. But the suite was HUGE and large enough to hold a family of 4. Kitchen, TV, Sofa, etc. A room like this in the U.S. is $150+. Or keep going to Santarem.
Santarem Hostel run by Mario. Nice accommodation. Ask to see his guitar room and the yellow Camino guitar pick I gave him. Mario is active on this forum. That's where I bought a Pilgrim Credential. This is not the same as N1 Hostel.
Golega. Solo Duro albergue. It was OK.
Tomar. Tomar 2300 public hostel. Organized staff. Good location. Newer. A good town to stay an extra day to rest. Templar Castle fortress.
Alvaiazere. A very difficult walking day. Pinoheiros albergue. Toward the back of church on the town square.
Alvorge. Alvorge isn't much of a town. Just a little commerce on the main street. Pick up the key at the café on the town square (then take it back). Very new accommodations. Nice. No wi-fi when I was there, but maybe now. Albergue is hidden. There is a building to the right and rear of the church. The albergue entrance is on the far side, lower level.
Cernache. Rabacal was unimpressive — glad I didn't stop there. Stop and rest at the Roman ruins in Coimbriga. Look for the scallop shell on the building - left side of street. It was locked and no one answered the intercom. I called the number posted and in 10-15 minutes a family showed up and let me in. Kitchen with market across the street. TV. Wi-Fi. 15 Euros(?)
Coimbra. Short walking day to big town. Stayed at the Residencial Moderna. Difficult to find. Not that great. 35 Euros for private room. There was a convent (?) coming into town that others stayed at, but further away from downtown activities. Beware the Student Festival (mid-May).
Mealhada. Albergue is 4 km beyond town. Different rooms available from shared dormitory to private rooms.
Agueda. Residential Celeste. I doubt if I would have been able to find the albergue today on my own. From where the road comes into town, you have to go up a really long (1-2 km) hill to get there (I think the arrows take the long way around and the albergue is not exactly on the Camino path). But it's very nice and next to a large super market.
Albergaria (convent). There is a convent 4-5 km after Albergaria. An interesting experience. Good beds, good bathrooms. No Kitchen, wi-fi, or common room in Pilgrim area. Nun serves dinner at 7:00. You can walk around the impressive grounds, but boring otherwise. Dinner experience makes it worthwhile. Have someone call ahead.
Sao Joao de Madeira. Stayed at Solar Joao next to obelisk in town center.
Porto. Stayed at Duas Nacoes Guest House because all others were full. Not that nice for a pilgrim bed in shared room, but private rooms available. Difficult to find. Call ahead to reserve in Porto where ever you stay. A good city to stay an extra rest day. Many things to see and do.
Vila do Conde. I strongly recommend walking the coast for this day. Much new boardwalk. Wonderful scenery. Many stay at albergue as you come into town, B=but I recommend calling ahead to reserve Eva Doce two blocks away.
Barcelos. We almost missed a turn in the first town. There is an
extremely faint yellow arrow on the curb to turn right. Stayed at "Residence of the Rooster Lord" albergue.
Corgo (not really a town). Casa de Fernanda. This is a must stop. A wonderful experience. Donation (and you will want to leave a big one). I called 2 days ahead. There is limited space and it will fill up.
Ponte de Lima. Municipal albergue is across the bridge. Opens at 4:00. Only time I had to wait.
Rubiaes. Walk 200 meters past the main albergue and stop at O Ninho. Another wonderful experience. Dinner and breakfast.
Tui. On the way there, walk through Valenca which is a huge medieval fortification. Stayed at Albergue el Camino. In the nearby plaza is the only hiking supply store I saw.
Mos. Be alert for false arrows. Correct yellow arrows may be blacked out leading you the old way. The albergue is on the Camino path after turning left off the highway into the town center. Mos is a good stop before a large hill.
Pontevedra. The albergue is a fairly large and new facility. 6 Euros. It was very full. I heard later there is another albergue just a little further into town which should be less busy.
Caldas de Reis. I skipped the municipal albergue and went to a hotel/hostel a few blocks away. Reports were the albergue was very bad. Stayed at Hotel O Cruceiro. You can pay for a shared pilgrim room or a private room.
Padron. I went 2 km North of Pardon and stayed at the Scala Hotel, 36 Euros for a nice private room - the most I ever spent. I would have walked further, but my shin split was hurting. I heard later the albergues in Padron were not good.
Santiago de Compostela. The Last Stamp Hostel. It was good, but difficult to find the first time.
Vaš prijatelj Camino
Steve
