Walking in May 2010

[susiemcc]

Have booked my flight (from Australia), bought my pack and now it is time to plan the rest so any help and suggestions from people who have walked the Camino Frances in May would greatly appreciated.

 

[johns]

g/day good luck doing the same in april
john

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Spring is very busy and very beautiful! You are in for a treat.

 

[grayland]

We started earlier this year in late March and finished mid April. You should see some beautiful Spring flowers and trees. We did see some in April...but were early for most of the Spring flowering;
I am going alone again in March in 2010...just the easiest time for me to get away.

 

[FatmaG]

I was walking the Camino Frances last year in May.
At the beginning, I was a bit disappointed because there were so many people and some rush for beds right at the beginning...
But then, I started to meet and to know some of the 'co-pilgrims' - really great people; I stopped to run for getting a bed and enjoyed my day walking calmly... and it was simply great!!!
Awaking nature is so really beautiful in May, the meseta f.i. is green (as green as Galicia), we had plenty of sunshine; but some days (or mornings), it was quite cold: you should bring clothes for any temperature, especially if you plan to go all the way from Saint Jean to Santiago.


Don't hesitate to ask any question you have, there are 'experts' here on the forum who helped me with plenty things for my first camino as well.

 

[elzi]

Hi,

It is generally very busy in May, it can also be a bit mixed weather-wise so expect anything from freezing cold rain to beautiful warm sunshine! So I guess a mix of clothing and a flexible attitude regarding bed accomodation. On the upside I think the camino is very beautiful at this time! Lovely and green with lots of budding flowers!

I realise it's a bit late since you've booked your flights but if you can avoid starting at one of the main staring points (st jean, roncevalles, sarria etc) on a weekend you may miss the worst of the crowds. Lots of people begin on one of the main May holiday weekends (May 1st particularly) and there seems to be a sort of bulge of pilgims around those times.

Buen Camino!

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I am walking part of the Camino Frances this spring, but I will carry a little ultralite tent with me. It cuts out lots of the anguish over getting a bed.

Reb.

 

[anniethenurse]

I am walking part of the Camino Frances this spring, but I will carry a little ultralite tent with me. It cuts out lots of the anguish over getting a bed.

Reb.

Ultralite Tent - which one do you have, Rebekah? I have been thinking about purchasing one for the Camino Portugues next May.
Do you fellow pilgrims think it would be useful / necessary on the Portugues in May 2010?
On the other hand I don´t know if I dare to sleep in a tent alone...
annie

 

[anniethenurse]

Have booked my flight (from Australia), bought my pack and now it is time to plan the rest so any help and suggestions from people who have walked the Camino Frances in May would greatly appreciated.

I walked from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Burgos May this year.
About the weather; it can be very unpredictable while walking over the mountains. The weather can change quickly being warm and sunny to a mountain fog with difficulties in finding the yellow arrows.
Happened to us on the highest top of the mountain before descending to Roncesvalles. In few minutes Roncesvalles disappered in a thick fog coming from nowhere.
So be prepaired to the heavy rain falls, blizzards, muddy roads, hot summer days, blooming fields and be happy. And the bed bugs - yes you will meet them too.
Either you like the camino or you don´t.
Some people return to the camino yearly or more often, others notice that the camino wasn´t for them.

 

[philipc67]

Hello Annie, oh you are in for a treat. Good luck and have a great Camino.

What have you read or are planning to read re preparation?

Apart from the regular practical guidebooks (John Brierley, Rother Walking Guide, et al) may I recommend the following books so you can get a feel of the personal experience. You can find all or most of them on Amazon.com:

I'M OFF THEN by HaPe Kerkeling. Easily the most fun book I have read about the Camino and full of personal and humorous insights. Originally written in German and the English translation is not perfect, but I couldn't put it down and read it through a single night.

THE CAMINO, A JOURNEY OF THE SPIRIT by Shirley MacLaine. It seems everybody has read this one. Of course, one must take the Lemuria, Atlantis, past life etc references with a grain of salt, but a fascinating read nevertheless.

WALK IN A RELAXED MANNER by Joyce Rupp. Well written and full of useful practical pointers if a bit too "religious" for my personal taste.

PILGRIM STORIES: ON AND OFF THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO by NL Frey. Bought it in Sydney Airport back in 2005. A beautifully written account of practical and spiritual experiences, it is this book which finally made me decide to plan the journey.

THE PILGRIMAGE by Paulo Coelho. Another famous book on the Camino but one I absolutely hated, full of patronizing spiritual crap, unbelievably overrated and self-indulgent. I pushed myself to finish it and then it went straight to the recycling bin. Read it for the wrong reasons, then again don't, why should this bozo make more money off you?

IBERIA by James A Michener. First published in 1968, this major work documents his love affair with Spain. Santiago de Compostela occupies the very last chapter. It is a brilliant book and the one which inspired me, twenty years ago, to one day make the journey.

Hope these books help. I only carried the John Brierley guide book (filled with annotations) with me on the Camino itself.

ULTREYA!!!

Philip

 

[RestlessRose]

Hey Annie,

I walked my first camino in Oct this year and I had a marvelous time. I am not sure what May 2010 will be like but I am sure you will have a great time. In this forum, under "Frequently Asked Questions" you will find a lot of information; from packing list, to recommended gear, to how to deal with bedbugs, and loads more. Take your time to browse through them. As a first timer, I had found them particularly useful.

Good luck and buen camino.

Hi Philip

Re your comments on Paulo Coelho - my immediate reaction - LOL. I read the book as part of my preparation for my trip. And I raised quite a few eyebrows when I was asked for my opinion of it. I pushed myself to finish it (too) and then wondered why I had even bothered ! Now I dont feel like I am weird or something

And thank you for your recommendation of Iberia. It has been far too many years since I had read any of James Michener's books. I had enjoyed some of his books, well actually, all that I had read. I think I will go pick this up for my Christmas reading.

Oh and dont work too hard through Christmas :lol:


Best regards
Rebecca

 

[anniethenurse]

What have you read or are planning to read re preparation?

I´m planning to walk the Camino Portugues from Porto to Santiago in May, takes me about 12 days and then I would like to spend about 4 days in Santiago before I have to fly back home and start working again.
Going to use John Brierley´s guide book and down load some info from the Confraternity of Saint James in London.
Haven´t read so many books, might read Kerkeling´s book only to be able to understand why there are so many Germans on the camino. I am quite well-prepaired since I have been reading this forum for a couple of years now.
annie
PS I am working with gastroenterological patients

Hola Rebecca thank you for your info, too.

 

[RestlessRose]

Hi Annie

Oh gosh ! I had addressed the response wrongly to you. I had intended to address it to Susiemcc who initiated this thread and who will be walking her first camino in May 2010. My apologies. Haha you must have been wondering as you ead my response ..... Buen Camino to you on your Camino Portuges. Would be so fun. It may be a whiles yet before I reach Camino Portuges, as I am thinking of Camino del Norte and more and more of Camino via de la Plata.

All the best.


Hi Susiemcc

Copied from my earlier response -
""I walked my first camino in Oct this year and I had a marvelous time. I am not sure what May 2010 will be like but I am sure you will have a great time. In this forum, under "Frequently Asked Questions" you will find a lot of information; from packing list, to recommended gear, to how to deal with bedbugs, and loads more. Take your time to browse through them. As a first timer, I had found them particularly useful.

Good luck and buen camino.""


Happy reading, happy planning, and buen camino, ladies. And a Merry Christmas.

Rebecca

 

[susiemcc]

Thank you all so much for your responses - your guidance and information is fantastic. I shall enjoy searching out the books and adding to my ever increasing knowledge. I think one of the major things that I have gained to date is the feeling of community and for someone travelling on their own that is very reassuring.

I am really enjoying being part of this Forum!!! ......and welcome more advice.

Susiemcc

 

[philipc67]

Thank you all so much for your responses - your guidance and information is fantastic. I shall enjoy searching out the books and adding to my ever increasing knowledge. I think one of the major things that I have gained to date is the feeling of community and for someone travelling on their own that is very reassuring.

I am really enjoying being part of this Forum!!! ......and welcome more advice.

Susiemcc

Sorry Susie, I suspect I wrongly addressed my book recommendations to Annie.

No harm done, I suppose, as all information belongs to the Forum anyway.

Both of you, Ultreya!!!

Philip

 

[philipc67]

Thanks Rebecca, I am glad you agree. The Coelho book was just horrible, patronizing and impossible to take seriously. Also, it was BADLY written, or was it the English translation?

Shirley MacLaine's account is fascinating, despite the metaphysical passages. She remains one of my favorite authors, her first two books (DON'T FALL OF THE MOUNTAIN and YOU CAN GET THERE FROM HERE) encouraged me to begin travelling alone on a wide scale.

James Michener is perhaps my all-time favorite author and a major inspiration in my teens and early twenties. He tends to create characters and stories about historical places and times so I suppose most of his works are classified as fiction, which I almost don't read anymore, preferring biographies and reading about real people.

My favorite Michener books:
THE COVENANT (deals with South Africa up to mid-1970s Apartheid)
THE SOURCE (focused on God and the Jewish religion)
SPACE (fictional astronauts set against a very real American setting)
THE DRIFTERS (awakenings of a young generation in the late 1960s)
IBERIA (nonfiction, a love letter to Spain)

Hope the above list inspires you.
Have a happy holiday season.

Philip

 

[susiemcc]

Hi again

My plan is to leave SJPP on Friday 30 April so would it be advisable to delay my departure for a few days because of the huge number of people who leave over the May day weekend?? - thoughts please as I don't want to have problems with finding pilgrim accommodation.

Susie

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola

It is something to think about. There will be a lot of people around in any event and I normally weekends get lots busier on the Camino Frances. The Spanish do celebrate this holiday and it may in fact be a puente - a longer break. But alternatively you could just throw yourself into it and go with the flow. I think you will always find a bed.

John

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Susie, by all accounts huge numbers of people leave from SJPP around May 1st. You might want to change your date a little if possible....
Margaret

 

[Rebekah Scott]

...to answer the question asked way back, I´m taking a Eureka Spitfire solo ultralite tent. I´ve not used one before, and I really dislike sleeping on the ground, but I´ve gotta keep an open mind. The thought of bed-racing is even more anathema to me!

 

[peregrina2000]

I'm starting my walk early next May as well -- not by choice, but I'm walking the Vdlp, and I just can't get away before May. I have been in Andalucia in the summer and want to avoid the oppressive heat that seems to be coming earlier and earlier. I'll be starting on May 1 or 2, so I know I'll have to contend with even bigger crowds. One thing that was pointed out to me was that in 2010, the May 1 holiday is on a Saturday, so there won't be a "puente" (long weekend) in Spain. That means that at least we won't have any surge in the numbers of weekend walkers, since there won't be a 3, 4, or 5 day holiday. But crowds or not, here I come! Laurie

 

[Lemonkid]

I too am a bit worried about crowds during the Pilgram year. It sounds like experienced people who've done the Camino (I've never done it) have seen the refugios fill up. Is this common?

I'm also planning on going in May.

If I bring a tent is it ok to camp anywhere, or something are there areas near the refugio where having a tent is ok. I'm going to be going wild on this board in the next few months. hahaha

 

[aussieval]

Hi Susie and all,

I'm also doing the Camino Frances May this year, but I start a little later, around 20 May. I intend to go from Sj Jean Pied du Port to Santiago. I'm also leaving from Australia (Perth). I don't know anyone in Australia who's going this year. Where in Australia are you from, Susie?

Thank you all for all the useful into and hints. Val

 

[susiemcc]

Hi Val

Excellent, another Aussie on the Camino, a shame we won't connect. I am from Sydney (originate from Tassie - we moved here 11 years ago).
I would also like to take this moment to say a huge thanks for all the wonderful advice so freely given.
I have been able to get hold of the books recommended by Philip and have just finished I'M OFF THEN - a great read..........now on to the next one!! Thanks for the titles Philip.
Still pondering my departure date - how can I possibly delay when my enthusiasm is so high??
Ah - such a dilema - maybe I will just jump in and go with the flow and enjoy the journey - a good Aussie thing to do!

Susie

 

[sharondb]

HI, I am also walking in May hoping to start around 4th or 5th from SJPP. I am from Melbourne so there will be another aussie on the walk. I'm just going to go with the flow and see what happens with accommodation, I'm sure it will all work out somehow. I've given myself enougth time, I hope, as I don't need to leave Santiago until 18th June.

Good luck everyone and I may see you somewhere along the walk.

Sharondb

 

[alspacas]

Another Aussie from Melbourne.
I am starting from Assisi in Italy just after Easter and anticipate hitting Spain early June, via the Camino Aragones. I am planning to head north from Leon on the Camino del Salvador, and then take the Primitivo from Oviedo. Sounds like there's a good chance I may meet some other Aussies on the road. :lol:
Avagoodone!
Alan

 

[cecelia]

Hello all,
Talking about books: another book I really enjoyed was one by Robert Ward - called All The Good Pilgrims. This is not intended to be a guidebook though. Another book that has been useful to me as a guidebook has been Walking the Camino de Santiago by Beth Davies and Ben Cole. I'd recommend that you don't get caught up wanting to take heavy books along. There will be points when you'll be feeling like getting rid of as many pounds and even ounces as you can - and you may end up leaving your books behind. I think anyone who has already done the walk once will reinforce that.
And on the weather: to reinforce what others have said. Take clothes for both cold and hot - think light layers. In mid-May 2007 on my way out of Leon it snowed and blew such a cold wind that I had every piece of clothes I had with me on (including rain coat and pants) just trying to keep warm. The following week it was so hot that everyone was caught off guard and there some unusually bad sunburnt noses and arms, some of which blistered and needed medical treatment. In short - prepare for both.
Buen camino
Cecelia (Canada)

 

[Lemonkid]

It seems like even when it's been crowded, there's a place on the floor or what have you that you can crash right? I don't really want to bring camping gear along the camino.

 

[elzi]

It seems like even when it's been crowded, there's a place on the floor or what have you that you can crash right? I don't really want to bring camping gear along the camino.

Don't count on crashing on the floor!! This is not always possible in albergues though many do have overflow options for busy times.

May is VERY busy. I once had to walk an extra 9km for a bed in May! These days I carry a tent but I would say that's not for everyone. If you want to walk in May (which is a lovely season for greenery and wildflowers etc) then be prepared to be flexible in your walking, get up early or stop early, or book ahead in private hostels etc if you are worried.

 

[KiwiNomad06]

It seems like even when it's been crowded, there's a place on the floor or what have you that you can crash right?

It used to be the case that you could crash on the floor, but that was stopped a couple of years back. Now, for insurance reasons, there is a limit to how many people an albergue can have inside. It can be quite cold and wet in May for camping as well. But if you can manage enough Spanish etc, you can book ahead in private albergues as Elzi says.
Margaret

 

[Lemonkid]

Hmmm, ok.. I definitely want to be able to have somewhere to sleep. Are the alberges cool with people camping on their grounds? I think the private hostel thing could add up pretty fast.. I'm not sure what the usual prices are?

 

[alexwalker]

I think the private hostel thing could add up pretty fast.. I'm not sure what the usual prices are?

Prepare for 15-50 Euros/night. Few in the lower end. And for this holy year, I suppose many of them are already fully booked. I guess just getting in for meals at restaurants will be a challenge. I plan for 2011 in stead.

 

[elzi]

I think the private hostel thing could add up pretty fast.. I'm not sure what the usual prices are?

Prepare for 15-50 Euros/night. Few in the lower end. And for this holy year, I suppose many of them are already fully booked. I guess just getting in for meals at restaurants will be a challenge. I plan for 2011 in stead.

sorry, maybe there is some confusion here between hostel and hostal. I was refering to private hostels meaning private albergues. Most albergues, municipal, church-run etc will not take advance bookings but privately-run albergues often do. That means you can call ahead and book a bed in the albergue.

For a bed in a private albergue you are probably looking a 8-12 euros maybe add a bit more for a more private space. For a room in a private hostal which is a type of hotel the prices alexwalker quotes would be right (no idea myself i'm a lower end budget traveller)

You can camp at some albergues but don't count on it. You could always try asking around the locals (maybe in the bar where you buy a drink) for where it is ok to camp? Campsites often cost much more than albergues. Wild camping is very possible but bring warm things for May!

 

[alexwalker]

sorry, maybe there is some confusion here between hostel and hostal. I was refering to private hostels meaning private albergues. Most albergues, municipal, church-run etc will not take advance bookings but privately-run albergues often do. That means you can call ahead and book a bed in the albergue.

Ah, sorry, you are quite right: I missed the difference. Thank you for the correction. However, I would suspect the private albergues to be fully booked as well. I would love to do the Camino in Apr/May this year, but I can foresee all the stress and trouble, so I am rather planning for 2011:

I read somewhere (I think sillydolls blog) that 1 out of 5 would do the whole Camino in 2010, estimated to 250.000. That would mean that 1.25 million would be on the road for some limited stretch (mainly the last 100-200 kms, I guess). Imagine the rush for beds on the Camino, with people getting up at 3-4 am. for walking, and albergue ques lining up at 10-11 am. for beds...

Also, I read that an estimated 10 mill. people would be visiting Santiago this year (pilgrims as well as city visitors). That leaves a lot of beds to be needed...

Edit:

Come to think of it, I have experienced the reservation policy of private albergues: I arrived at Arca on sep. 24, 2009 and the municipal and all were full. I managed to find a private albergue/hostel at 10 Euros/night with plenty of free beds, but I was told that they were all reserved, so no place for me. Then, the MOTHER of the business arrived, heard the case, and told the hospitalero quite firmly (thank God I had learnt a little Spanish before I started this Camino thing, so I understood a main part of the shouting): "You better let him have a bed: Can't you see he's a real pilgrim, walking alone and carrying his own things, rather than being bused here? We cannot refuse him a bed: Not before God!"

I got my bed. Bless the old woman's soul.

If it is so problematic in a normal year, how about 2010?

 

[Lemonkid]

I got my bed. Bless the old woman's soul.

If it is so problematic in a normal year, how about 2010?

Awesome story. Yeah, I'm a bit wary I'll end up somewhere with no place to sleep. I suppose I should bring a tent.

 

[grayland]

Leave the tent at home....you will find a bed easier than you can carry the extra weight for 800 km.
Most of us are debating whether or not to take an extra t-shirt. :shock:
You will be able to connect with a place to sleep each night and it will all be a part of the adventure. Your best memories will be the nights when it was a bit dicey. :wink:

 

[gittiharre]

Hi, I started on May 8th 2006 and it took me 35 days to get to Santiago. It was busy, but I always go a bed and I had 1 day of rain while walking and a few showers in Santiago. On a couple of days it was chilly in the morning, frost on the fields and road. I only had shorts and my legs were bright red after an hour of walking, but then it warmed up. A couple of times there was a very nasty icy wind and I mocked up ear protection with socks and undies and a sunhat to hold it in place as my ears were hurting so much from the wind. I had a windprotection fleece and a cape and a merino t shirt, which were totally adequate for the rain and the wind, a lightweight cycling type cap would have been useful to protect my ears. Nowadays I use a headtube, which you can scruntch up over the ears and a visor. It is a better mix. Regards, Gitti

 

[Hamilton]

I've walked the Camino Francés and the Camino Portugues in May and had a great time. The weather is perfect for walking and the country side is beautiful as are the sunrises and sunsets.

Although it does rain a bit once you reach Galicia, just like home (Ireland) in many ways, lots of the green fields and mountains.

The Camino Francés is quite busy around this time and has already been mentioned there is always a competition for beds in some of the albergues. Don't get drawn into it, walk at your leisure and enjoy it you will always find somewhere to pit yor head down at night.

The best advice I can give is to keep your backpack between 8kg - 10kg, ideally 8kg. Remember there are plenty of shops along the way.

Enjoy!!

 

[hannajo]

G'day Susie, Val et al
Just putting my hand up as another Aussie leaving for Camino April/May. I hail from Canberra at the moment but currently a bit of a nomad (gray/blond?). Heading to UK in three weeks to work for 10 weeks to pay for my trip so who knows we may meet again on the road.

May I ask how you are getting to St Jean....I was thinking of flying to San Sabastian and getting the train/bus to Bayonne. I understand the train is out of service there till June so it will be bus to St Jean. I will book a bed somewhere in St Jean as soon as I get a firm date to start.

Thanks for everyones input.

Jo

 

[JohnT]

I'm walking from Leon to Santiago de Comp starting mid May. As it is my first Camino walking, did it a few years back on a coach tour and was enchanted by what we saw, I am now doing a supported walk booked through a travel company. In booking hotels along the way through they hit a snag with my program at Triacastella where all rooms were booked so having to do a rather longer day to Samos. Looks like the route is going to be very busy this year. As I have been let out to walk this by myself this suits me fine as it should make for plenty of company.

 

[nellpilgrim]

Hi John T,
As you walk into Triacastela on the Camino the last bar on the left hand side of the street has some rooms-2,4 & 6 bed simple clean and cheap. The rooms aren't located in the bar but down a side street towards the river.
N

 

[j maguire]

Hi John,

Tricastela is worth a stop if you can.

The Parish Priest celebrates a very special Pilgrim Mass in the evening which we found to be enriching and inclusive.Afterwards the crowd drifted to the bars nearby for their meal served at tables that lined the Camino where the fellowship continued.

Buen Camino!

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola - Have a look at http://www.casaolga.net/ - a little known house in Triacastela with rooms. Prices from 16 euros just off the main street.

 

[Lemonkid]

Does anyone know if the Spanish government is providing extra facilities for pilgrims knowing this will be a busy year?

Although it seems like no one who's done the Camino before is worried about accomodation..

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Yes - many local authorities along the various routes are planning to provide adidtional accommodation in sports halls etc. We will see this sign or versions of it all over the place

 

[Lemonkid]

Yes - many local authorities along the various routes are planning to provide adidtional accommodation in sports halls etc. We will see this sign or versions of it all over the place

That's a relief.

 

[hannajo]

G'day all Aussies
My friend John and I are walking from St Jean late April, separately, then together later.

We hail from Canberra and south NSW coast. See you on the journey...

Bueno Camino.
Jo

 

[Lemonkid]

Yes - many local authorities along the various routes are planning to provide adidtional accommodation in sports halls etc. We will see this sign or versions of it all over the place

I don't suppose there will be maps of these one can get ahead of time?

There will be hopefully feedback on this forum from people who complete in March / April, before I go I suppose. Really looking forward to it, despite any possible hardships anyways, that's part of the fun, isn't it?

 

[susiemcc]

I will be leaving SJPP 30 April - Preparation and gear nearly complete so one last (?) question from me - do you recommend thermal top and leggings and waterproof pants?

 

[Steve.Belfast]

Hannahjo,
If you're leaving from London your best bet may be a flight from Stanstead to Bayonne-Bairritz airport. Then from there a train, or bus, to SJPP

 

[Tia Valeria]

I will be leaving SJPP 30 April - Preparation and gear nearly complete so one last (?) question from me - do you recommend thermal top and leggings and waterproof pants?

We are not walking until May but I have bought lightweight longsleeved T and longjohns from Trekmate. (They are a bit mean sized so make sure you buy big enough). I plan to use them when it is cold, and they double up as night wear. I tested them recently and they work well. Make great pyjamas as well as being warm walking. Quick drying etc.
I also have Regatta breathable waterproof overtrousers. Fairly lightweight too and also they truly do breathe. I prefer walking with them to the longjohns as they are easy to remove when it warms up. But if it is really cold then I can have 3 layers if needed.
All reasonably priced and you can check them out on the web.
We are having a realy cold winter here so I have had a good chance to test stuff out.
Have a great Camino
Tia Valeria

 

[hannajo]

Hannahjo,
If you're leaving from London your best bet may be a flight from Stanstead to Bayonne-Bairritz airport. Then from there a train, or bus, to SJPP

I finally decided to delay departure and am now starting Camino on 6th May from Burgos with a bus from Bilbao. Love to hear from any other pilgrims who will be in Burgos at this time.

Blessings
Jo

 

[aussieval]

Hi everyone, I'm finally ready, as ready as one can be, to leave Perth, Australia, tonight for my camino... I start from SJPP on May 21... Thank you for all your help in this forum... I'm sure I'll see some of you around, will look for the forum badges... Bon camino and ciao for now, Val