Walking Santiago-Finnesterra -Muxia

[MoniRose]

I walked SJPP to Santiago last summer. Next year I would like to finish by going to the coast, and my daughter and her husband would like to go with me.

If we BEGIN in Santiago and walk a circuitous route to Finnesterra/Muxia then back to Santiago, could we get a Credential and stay at the albergues along the way? How does one "prove" they are a true pilgrim if they are just starting in Santiago?

Anyone do this? Thanks so much! - Monica :arrow:

 

[Deleted member 3000]

You can get credential in Santiago for the Fisterra route (or in Negreira). Check with the tourist office and the pilgrim office.

 

[mspath]

Monirose,

The Galicia Tourist Office, (Oficina de Información Turística Xunta de Galicia), in SdC at !30 Rua do Vilar near the cathedral has a good free map and helpful multilingual list of all services on the paths to Finisterre and Muxia.

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[wayfarer]

As mspath says you can get all info on accomodation on that route at the tourist office also Brierly does a small guide for the route. When you walk from Santiago you can get a compostella in Finistera at the municipal hostel and another at the hostel or tourist office in Mucia. When you return to Santiago you can then get another at the pilgrim office. Its a beautiful walk.
Enjoy.

 

[scruffy1]

I am not a big fan of Fistera - entirely too comercialized anymore and lacks soul. True the lighthouse is an attraction and the 0 kilometer signpost are attractive, sunset etc but not for me. The Fistera document is a bit well tacky. Muxia is much more to my liking, a small real place in a lovely situation on the sea and the church is wonderful when the waves start crashing. They too offer documentation, very simple and well quaint - how big are your study walls?
The way to Muia follows the coast and returns through the countryside. Just outside of Muia is a small village called Figueiras del Ariba not to be confused with Figueiras del Abaxo, a small unremarkable place until you go into the church. The Chapela de San Roche the most interesting church on the Fistera/Muxia Camino. It is largely Romanesque with all the details and sculptures one might expect. Open for Sunday mass or as you pass listen for the bell, might be a wedding a Christening or God forbid a funeral. The house directly opposite has the key but the lady speaks Gallego and some Spanish-she needs convincing in order to open.

 

[wayfarer]

Agreed Scruffy, we stayed out by the beach and only walked in to eat and walk to the lighthouse. Its like lots of seaside towns all over Europe but having said that its all part of the Camino experience and I'm glad I saw it. Muxia is much nicer and the walk in by the beach is beautiful. I really enjoyed that day.

 

[ekas]

The albergue in Negreira has a credential specifically for the Fisterra route.

I walked the Santiago-Fisterra-Muxia-Santiago circuit last year and may have some advice for you.

Very few people go to Muxia, and even less walk back to Santiago. That being said, the route (as of June 2012) is not marked as a return trip (though to not confuse you the way between Muxia and Fisterra IS marked in both directions - what I mean is that the route from Muxia/Fisterra is not marked back to Santiago). This means that returning from either destination is difficult - though possible.

Fisterra is a bit of a tourist-trap crowded place - if you want a true quiet & calm end to your Camino then Muxia will offer that. However, if you plan to walk back to Santiago then I would go to Muxia first and then Fisterra, and return from Fisterra as that route is more well-traveled and you are more likely to run into people who will steer you on the right path. The route between Olveiroa and Muxia is the path less taken and has quite a bit of trekking through forests where the lack of signage and people make the return trip daunting (I got lost several times returning alone from Muxia and getting lost in a forest doesn't bode well for morale).

The albergue in Dumbria is a true gem - pretty much a brand new facility that hardly anyone stops in because its so close to Olveiroa, but while staying there you also have access to the adjoined sports facility and computer lab/library. In my mind its worth it to push past Olveiroa and go the 8km more (I think) to Dumbria for its comforts. But I guess its up to your taste... Olveiroa has... rustic charm :? whereas Dumbria has modern comfort.

Just west of Olveiroa the road forks at this horrid eye-sore power plant - one fork heads south-west towards Fisterra, the other north-west to Muxia. When returning you will reach this fork and then back-track the first portion of your journey west from Santiago. If you do plan on walking back, having a photographic memory really helps as you will need to recall landmarks and where you made turns along this trail. Somewhere between Negreira and Santiago someone painted red arrows back to Santiago so once you see those you should be fine. When you're walking west and you know in your mind that you will be returning to Santiago, make mental notes of the trip between Santiago and Olveiroa because your memories will be your best guide returning to Santiago.

If you are walking TO Muxia FROM Fisterra it is important that you get a stamp/sello at Lires because the hospitaliero in the municipal albergue in Muxia will demand proof that you indeed walked and did not take the bus, and the only proof is in Lires which is in the middle of no-where. If you plan on staying at a private albergue in Muxia then don't worry about it.

It's a beautiful trek either way you go. Personally I like a little quiet so I'd skip the hustle and bustle of Fisterra and stay in Cee which offers all the coastal charm with much more serenity. In fact I'd go as far as to say that Cee is more charming than Fisterra... If you stay in Cee there's a nice albergue in the center of town called A Casa da Fonte not too far from the church. Hope this helped =)

 

[lovingkindness]

...{Santiago dC :arrow: Finisterre :arrow: Muxia :arrow: Santiago dC } = two pilgrimage certificates (Finisterre [pretty] & Muxia [nice]) + another Compostela in SdC which, as every hungry peregrina knows = gourmet meals three times a day for three days in a row at the Parador
Muchisimo Gracias.....

Credencial? No need for a new credencial unless you really want one. I collected sellos on the left over spaces in my SdC credencial and also on the cover when the spaces ran out. This sufficed in Finisterre, then Muxia and back again in Santiago de Compostela.

Cheers

 

[rickster]

Planning on walking the Santiago-Finnesterra-Muxia route in June. Can someone help me understand the difference between Finnesterra, Finnesterre, Fisterra, Finistera, Fistera? Which one is the most appropriate reference?

 

[scruffy1]

Fisterra is the local pronounciation in Gallego Finisterra is Spanish. The tourist information board put up by the local authorities and the tourist office offers both titles Fisterra/Finisterra the Fisterra always preceeding Finisterra.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

the hospitalero in the municipal albergue in Muxia will demand proof that you indeed walked

Just go to the Bela Muxia. It may be the best albergue in Spain!

 

[MoniRose]

Well, I may not wait til next year. I'm thinking of this summer! Good to know about the route markings.
I think I understand that I can get a Compostela at both places, correct? And that the best advice, no matter which way I go, would be to bus back to Santiago.

I would like to stop in Cee as I made a great friend on the Camino last year and he is from Cee. Would love to explore it!

Also, I heard that in Muxia there is an albergue/retreat hoiuse for those who want to rest at the end of their Camino. Can't remember the name - something with a "fox"? So that's two options - Fistera - Muxia, and maybe not get enough time in Cee, or Muxia - Fistera and not enjoy the retreat house or Muxia. I imagine either way I would enjoy. But any further advice?

Alos, what do you think would be the daily cost of the walk around? And how many days? Five? Six?

Thanks for all the help. - Monica :arrow:

 

[rickster]

Thank you Scruffy; appreciate the feedback.

 

[tyrrek]

'Finisterre' is one of the BBC's shipping forecast areas, so that must be right! :lol: If you've never listened to the BBC shipping weather forecast do so whenever you have difficulty sleeping. It's nonsensical to anyone who doesn't go to sea, but it's strangely hypnotic.

The Camino Finisterre is a lovely walk. I did it separately from any other Camino and wished I'd had longer to continue to Muxia. Buen Camino!

 

[gaulsdog]

'Finisterre' is one of the BBC's shipping forecast areas, so that must be right! :lol: If you've never listened to the BBC shipping weather forecast do so whenever you have difficulty sleeping. It's nonsensical to anyone who doesn't go to sea, but it's strangely hypnotic.

Finisterre does not exist anymore in the BBC shipping forecast.

It is now Fitzroy

 

[tyrrek]

Finisterre does not exist anymore in the BBC shipping forecast.

It is now Fitzroy

My mistake. It's still a good listen for insomniacs though! Buen Camino!

 

[ekas]

I think I understand that I can get a Compostela at both places, correct? And that the best advice, no matter which way I go, would be to bus back to Santiago.

Alos, what do you think would be the daily cost of the walk around? And how many days? Five? Six?

Thanks for all the help. - Monica :arrow:

When you arrive in Fisterra and Muxia you get a... certificate, if you want to call it that, that you completed the trek there (though I don't recall if they require proof that you walked it). Upon returning to Santiago you can probably get a Compostela there.

As for the 'daily cost' walking to Fisterra is divided into three stages: Santiago > Negreira ~23km; Negreira > Olveiroa ~35km; [fork in the road: left fork - Olveiroa > Fisterra ~30km (though Cee is 17km from Olveiroa if you wish to stop there) // or // right fork - Olveiroa > Muxia ~30km (Dumbria is 8km from Olveiroa along this route and a far classier albergue)]; and between Fisterra and Muxia you have 28km.

So technically speaking walking from Santiago to Fisterra is a 3 day trip with an additional day if you add Muxia, and a stop in Cee could make that 5 days. There are small albergues along the route between Negreira and Olveiroa if you want to split that walk up.

Further advice -
Negreira: the municipal albergue in Negreira is a little ways past town so I would advise making your food arrangements before setting out for it, if that is where you choose to stay. There are private accommodations in town but cost double the municipal's price. Food shouldn't be a problem here as Negreira has two grocery stores I saw and a sports bar with large portions (on your left as you enter the main street).
Olveiroa: The municipal is a refurbished old farming establishment (its not one albergue but rather a cluster of buildings). That being said it hasn't lost any of its rustic traits. If the local cattle are still thriving expect the noises and smells they come with, oh and the flies. The beds at the muni are first-come-first-serve as there is no hospitalero, you claim a bed and pay when the person arrives around 5PM. If you want to avoid that there is a private as you enter the town and a pension as you exit the town (the pension is rather costly as I recall). Also the village has little in terms of food. The private albergue has a threadbare shop, there is a 'restaurant' by the municipal that can run out of food fast, and the pension has a restaurant as well but it is a little more costly.
Dumbria: Amazing municipal albergue, town has a small shop with food and next door a restaurant/bar. Unlike all the other ACAG hostels in Galicia, the one in Dumbria has utensils in its kitchen AND shower curtains!
Fisterra: The municipal is rather cramped, but centrally located. There are probably a dozen other private albergues in Fisterra catering to all the tourists. There are two grocery stores in town that I know of, but if you don't want to cook in (it's hard to find time to do so in Fisterra) there are quite a lot of restaurants facing the port just a hop and a skip away from the municipal. Note: the lighthouse is an additional 3km from the municipal albergue (center of town) so you probably want to check in first before that small trek.
Cee, Fisterra, and Muxia are all seaside towns so seafood is primarily what you'll see on menus (finding non-seafood will be like Where's Waldo). Tossing that tid-bit out in case you don't like seafood.

And lastly, Galicia is a wet region, and this corner is no exception. If its not raining the fog may be rather thick. That being said, a poncho or some sort of rain gear is advised.

 

[MoniRose]

So this is my biggest fear......

I am considering arriving around the 2nd of July. I would head out from Santiago alone and be alone on the walk.

I'm worried about length of the first day's walk, not having any "warm up" days. Can I walk the 28km or 32km in one day? Most of my days last year on the Camino Frances were about 20km.

i am worried about being out there alone and getting lost.

Will there be others? Will there be the infrastucture I experienced last year (food, towns, lodging?) and support from other pilgrims? Will there be places to stay if I need to slow down?

These are my biggest fears. - Monica

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Monica,

I'm sure your fears will drip away as soon as you take your first steps in front of the parador. The Camino is extremely well marked, and there is good infrastructure. You have an option for a 21 km first day if you walk to Negreira. In Negreira there is a public albergue and at least one or two private ones that others have posted about here. There are several new towns with albergues opened just over the last year or so, I saw one or two in a small town called Santa Marinha after Olveiroa.

There will be plenty of people, and most of them won't know anyone else either, since people from all different caminos converge in Santiago and then walk on to Finisterre. When I walked in late June, the albergues were all pretty well filled every day, so you will have lots of company. The one exception was the albergue (HUGE and modern) in Dumbria, where I was the only pilgrim in the whole place.

Check the eroski site http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/ and mundicamino, and you'll see a fair number of places with accommodation.

If you have the time, you could walk a complete circle, Santiago - Muxia-Fisterre-Santiago -- seems to be growing in popularity because last year I saw a lot of people walking back to Santiago.

And though I'm not the compostela expert, my understanding is that you can only get a Compostela in the pilgrims office for walking 100 kms into Santiago, not for going 100 kms from Santiago out to the coast. But both Muxia and Finisterre have colorful certificates for your collection! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[ekas]

Monica, you need not fear being alone. I walked the Fisterra route last year (June 29-July 6) and by my rough estimate there were about 50 people at each stage. Sure its not as populated as the Frances, but you'll still see plenty of people, and it is well marked going towards Fisterra/Muxia.

As for the pilgrim-infrastructure regarding lodging at least. The main 'legs' are to Negreira, Olveiroa, Fisterra, and Muxia; however, there are smaller albergues in between those towns. About 10km past Negreira is Vilaserio and about another 10 is Santa Marina which allow you to split up the 2nd leg. I think you may be able to get a guide to the Camino Fisterra in the Pilgrim's Office in Santiago, its a small book which is handy for all the albergues along the way.

You wont have any time to fear what lay ahead as the Camino Fisterra is truly beautiful

 

[MoniRose]

Thank you all. I'm excited to go, fear and all, and just accept what the Camino decides to give me! Monica :arrow:

 

[nellpilgrim]

You lucky thing I walked from SDC to Fistera in 2009 and will walk on to Muxia to complete my current journey.
I thought the route to Fistera was just gorgeous and as (I think) you're going in the Summer the seasonal summer only albergues (there is one on the hight ground between Olveiroa and Cee) will be open. The walk between Olveiroa to Cee is lovely and for the most part entirely on track. You pass a charming little church tucked away just off track which had an ancient wooden statue of the Virgin propped up outside-this is also a good spot for a break/siesta and there is a stream close by to lull you to sleep! Though the Fisterana (the certificate you get in the municipal in Fistera) is a little lurid as Scruffy said I'm rather fond of mine and find it has a certain 'local' charm

 

[santa666]

this seems to be great end of my camino, if there will be 2-3 days time, I will finish it by the ocean, thanks for explanation of all problems which can rise on the way...

 

[colinPeter]

Muxia is much more to my liking

Much better IMHO.

 

[MoniRose]

Okay, I will be flying into Santiago about mid July (I know. HOT!) and plan to walk to Finisterra, then on to Muxia. My questions:

1. Is it worth it to purchase Brierly's guide? There are two reviews on Amazon - one is "one star" the other is "five stars", so it really doesn't help me
2. I believe I can do the entire route in five diays, but I would like two have the option of staying in Cee, Finisterrs, and Muxia for an extra day each. Is there enough to do in these towns if I wanted to devote an extra entire day? Or is it better to press on, albiet slowly, and then spend that extra time in Santiago? I plan on an extra day in Santiago on the front end and also on the back end.
3. I received what I think are good lodging recommendations in Santiago, but what about the other towns. Any recommendations for those?

As an aside, I am tempted to take a side trip to Barcelona. I made some lovely friends on my Camino last year and thought it might be nice to visit, if it was convenient for them, when I was back this summer. Can anyone recommend an inexpensive/convenient place to stay in Barcelona? I would love to see the Gaudi and Sagrada Familia architecture!

I would welcome any advice, thoughts for those who have been to the coast or to Barcelona!
Thank you all so much!! - Monica :arrow:

 

[tyrrek]

Hi Monica!

I always find it useful to have a guide, but I didn't really find Brierley's as useful on the Camino Finisterre as on the Frances. It's always good to have the maps etc to see where the next village is, but I thought some of the elevation charts seemed to be way out, and I'm sure the distances on the stage into Finisterre are wrong unless I found a short cut somewhere. I know exactly how far I walk in an hour and it aint 7kms.

I'm not sure what there is to see in Cee...except the sea! Only joking. I'm sure it has one or two gems worth seeking out but if staying there I'd maybe just make the next day to Finisterre a lazy wander after a nice breakfast. I think Brierley puts the distance from Cee-Finisterre at about 13kms but I reckon it was shorter than that. I'm afraid I've never been on to Muxia, and can't really recommend the place I stayed in Finisterre although it was OK.

Do your homework around Barcelona, because accommodation is expensive there. If you just turn up at a basic 1* hotel it will cost about 3 times as much as on the Camino. Websites such as laterooms.com or hostelworld will get you a better deal. Look after your wallet/camera etc as well. :shock:

Buen Camino!

 

[MoniRose]

Tyrrek - Thank you for the insight. The lazy start from Cee sounds like a good plan. Also the advice about Barcelona. I don't know if I would go if my friends from last year can't get time off to meet me.

Regarding, if Brierley isn't helpful, can you recommend another?

Again, I appreciate the insight of those who have come before me! - Monica

 

[tyrrek]

Regarding, if Brierley isn't helpful, can you recommend another?

Hi Monica. I'm not saying that JB's guide isn't helpful. It may be as good or better than any other. I just found a few things that didn't relate to my experience at all. I've only walked that route once, so I can't advise on alternatives, I'm afraid. Buen Camino.

 

[mspath]

Monica,

The Mundicamio site gives a good on-line overview of the camino from Santiago to Finisterre. See >> http://www.mundicamino.com/rutas.cfm?id=41. As you click through the four Etapas you can find detailed info on pilgrim accommodation (albergues), tourist accommodation (hospedajes) and where to eat (donde comer).

On a more personal level you can get a taste of walking this route in all kinds of weather including much rain and bitter cold by reading my blog Camino Gazetteer starting with Negreira >> http://mermore.blogspot.fr/2011/04/aaneg.html. It also lists where I stayed and ate, both good and bad.

Enjoy your planning and this lovely walk

Margaret Meredith

 

[Al the optimist]

I walked to Finisterra last September using only the information supplied by the Tourist office in Santiago. It had all the information I needed and I had no problems following the route. I also think the walk from Olvieroa to Cee is spectacular. I made it two easy days by staying at Cee at Albergue Moriera overlooking the bay. It was very good and friendly.