Walking the Invierno from about 17 May 17

[MikeJS]

Just finished the Sureste at Benavente and going to walk up the Via de la Plata to the Frances and then to the Invierno. As I want to keep it as a single thread you can find my comments on the Invierno in the Sureste section!!

 

[MikeJS]

Looks like I'll be leaving Ponferrada on 18 May 17 ( I'm in Rabanal ATM). I will be using the excellent forum guide for the details. The Invierno lodgings list that is in the Invierno section of this web site ( couldn't see which post ATM so unfortunately cannot thank the person who created it) and the Wise Pilgrims app.

 

[MikeJS]

Decided to keep the Invierno thread here.

Ponferrada to Puente de Domingo Florez 35kms. Albergue Alea last night was excellent and ideal as it's very close to the start of the Invierno. Way out from Ponferrada is easy to find using the forum guide or the Wise Pilgrims app and the way to Toral de Merayo was well marked by mojons and yellow arrows. Crossed the old bridge at TdM and continued to follow the mojons and arrows. Unfortunately, after about 2kms I thought that the direction felt off so checked the app and the forum guide and I was in the wrong place! Retraced my steps to see if I had missed a sign but all seemed correct. Decided to go back and pick up the guide/app trail which then all matched. However, there were no mojons or arrows to be seen until I reach Villalibre de la Jurisdiccion. So it would seem the route has been moved, probably to avoid the small climb up the vineyard. Wasn't happy to follow the 'new' route as I could not see any tack on my maps but given how good the arrows and mojons were the rest of the way I'm sure I would have got to the correct spot. Route was easy to follow thereafter without any problems. That said it was a tough day. The extra few kms didn't help but the tough bit was the ups and downs. Given how long I've been walking this time I am fairly fit and like 40 plus days. Had to go up 300m and down again twice, plus another climb up of 300m and then down 400m and that climb down was long and hard. Would hate to do it in the wet, but more importantly, I would hate to try it without a good few days ( or weeks) on the Camino first! Lovely scenery and the castle at Castillo de Comital was impressive. As a note it was now supposed to be open on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 1100 but I was there at 1100 and it was still closed. Now in Hostal Torre (18euros for peregrinos!) which is fine and off to A Rue de Valdeorras tomorrow.

 

[KinkyOne]

Wow, tough day!!!
Enjoy

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Taking notes to update my copy of the guide.

 

[MikeJS]

Firstly, I would like to confirm that the menu la dia at Hostel Torre is excellent and only 10 euros. Also the 2 ladies serving at the bar were fabulous- very helpful, all smiles and laughing in a nice way at my Spanish ( they were both fluent English speakers).

PdDF to a Rua about 31kms. A lovely walk today and just followed the mojons and yellow arrows the whole way. In fact since my earlier problem near the start yesterday the way has been marked superbly. The scenery is as good as I hoped and the places you pass through are clearly trying really hard to encourage peregrinos. As usual, once you enter Galacia the standards rise a little. At O Barco I kept to the river side path as far as possible and it is a lovely place. It would be a pity to avoid it. As an extra benefit I managed to replace my old leaking poncho with a new one for 13 euros. Same as the previous one ( without leaks) that folds up into a small pouch that has a belt to strap it to your waist. Photo of the industrial shop is attached. The way turns left about 1km before Vilamartin and keeps close to the river again which is far better than going along the road. No trouble with dogs so far. Off to Quiroga tomorrow.

 

[MikeJS]

Taking notes to update my copy of the guide.

If you are walking the route please double check my impression of the change to the route near the start!

 

[MikeJS]

A Rua to Quiroga 26kms.

First a bit about food in A Rua. For such a big place it's not easy to find a somewhere for a meal. Bar Taxi had food but not until late and were not very welcoming. Meson O Tono is shut down and bar Pepa has changed hands. I ate in O Retorno at the bottom of the road from the albergue. Only raciones but truly excellent quality and the owner was clearly aware and interested in the Invierno.

Lovely simple walk today with very clear route markings. There are a couple of alternative routes shown on the way (photos attached) that I didn't take as I was not sure where they would take me! Also the route to Soldon now seems to take a slightly different route (photo of Camino Invierno sign) where instead of following the road it goes off right and heads up a steep hill and then joins a minor road. I walked it but couldn't see any significant gain. Route was very well marked all the way until the centre of Caspedro where a junction where you turn right is not marked and in fact I saw no more directions until I reached the river at Quiroga. For those desperate there is a bar just before you cross the river into Quiroga! Still no other peregrinos (I'm told there are 4 a day ahead) and no dog problems. Off to Monforte de Lemos tomorrow.

 

[MikeJS]

Just been for my normal walk about to see the place and to hunt for somewhere to eat tonight. Went to Bar A Taverna and as usual nothing outside or inside to suggest they actually did meal! Asked about a menu for the evening and just got blank looks (my Spanish is not that bad!) walked up to Restaurante Aroza but closed at this time. Nothing outside to suggest what the menu may be or any clue what time they may decide to open! Given the number of bars and restaurants that have closed down I really don't understand why they don't make at least some effort to tell the customer what they can offer. On my Caminos this time this has been a constant frustration. It's the one clear positive thing about the Frances that at least the places along that route clearly want your business and make it very clear what they offer. Do the Spanish just know? Even most bars if you want a bocadillo you have to ask what they have - rarely is a list shown. Frustrated in Quiroga!!!

 

[KinkyOne]

A Rua to Quiroga 26kms.

First a bit about food in A Rua. For such a big place it's not easy to find a somewhere for a meal. Bar Taxi had food but not until late and were not very welcoming. Meson O Tono is shut down and bar Pepa has changed hands. I ate in O Retorno at the bottom of the road from the albergue. Only raciones but truly excellent quality and the owner was clearly aware and interested in the Invierno.

Lovely simple walk today with very clear route markings. There are a couple of alternative routes shown on the way (photos attached) that I didn't take as I was not sure where they would take me! Also the route to Soldon now seems to take a slightly different route (photo of Camino Invierno sign) where instead of following the road it goes off right and heads up a steep hill and then joins a minor road. I walked it but couldn't see any significant gain. Route was very well marked all the way until the centre of Caspedro where a junction where you turn right is not marked and in fact I saw no more directions until I reached the river at Quiroga. For those desperate there is a bar just before you cross the river into Quiroga! Still no other peregrinos (I'm told there are 4 a day ahead) and no dog problems. Off to Monforte de Lemos tomorrow.

Hola, Mike,

Did you stay in Asun's albergue or in the one at polideportivo?

In 2014 the route to Soldon was already as you described but you can stay on that minor tarmac road. No real traffic there. Also after Soldon if you stay on that same road it will lead you into Quiroga but you'll miss the castle. Only tricky spot is just after highway underpass where you should KSO and not turn left into poligono industrial.

I guess you'll have to go for a picnic dinner then I was quite satisfied with it as I've had a room with a nice view to the west all for myself in albergue. Easy evening sitting on a window sill munching on jamon, queso, aceitunas etc. with bottle of tinto, you know the drill

 

[MikeJS]

Yes, Asun's which was like sleeping in my old Nan's house! Inc the feather bed. All good all the same.
Yes, I have frequently done the picnic option. Would just prefer to be able to walk out and know where I could get a meal tonight. Fingers crossed that the Aroza is open when I walk up there tonight!

 

[MikeJS]

Walked up to Aroza - no food! Double checked inA Taverna - only snacks! So it's Dia picnic again!

 

[MikeJS]

The albergue in Quiroga is massive and as others have mentioned can be busy with lots of school visits. That was true today, a Saturday, but the lady at the check in desk was aware of the problem and gave me a dormitory well away from the children. I was in a room with 16 beds all to myself! Limited hot water and the water is rust coloured but otherwise fine. No food apparently to be had this evening in what is quite a large town! La Dia picnic again!

Quiroga to Monforte de Lemos 35kms was a lovely walk with a few hills but nothing too strenuous, reminded me of the gentle slops up Vesuvius when I used to do the annual race. Lots of woodland and a great walk along a stream from O Pobra. Then a good green lane walk into town. Stopped at A Pobra for a coffee, luckily one cafe was open at 1100 on a Sunday. No food, not even tostadas! Still no other peregrinos seen and there were a group of 5 dogs just before Barxa rowdy but no problem. Staying in the Hostal Puente Romano with a view straight onto the roman bridge and a lot of noisy geese! Off to Chantada tomorrow.

 

[MikeJS]

Monforte de Lemos to Chantida 31kms

Hotel was fine and had a good meal just down the road. The info in the guide is incorrect about the wine tasting as at least on Sundays it's a tour at 1830 and then A tour at 1930.

Another great walk today except for the dull straight road at the start to Vide. Markings to get out of the city are faint but ok. As mentioned in the guide there are a couple of places where you should be taken off road. At A Vide the right turn is not signed as being the camino and the path that you can see appear impassable. Also just before Pineiro you now turn about 100m up the road from where the Camino used to turn off the road. This stretch is poorly marked. There were 3 small yappy dogs at Barxa but I just threw them a few doggy treats and they shut up.

I was also dive bombed by some aggressive swallows along this stretch!!

The route down to Belasar is not well marked but keep heading down and you can't get lost. The views here are spectacular. Got to the bottom and as usual the bar closed at 1130. I think it's a significant indication of the poor state of the Spanish economy given that in the beautiful setting of Belasar there are still numerous empty and abandoned houses. The climb up from there is tough and for those less inclined(!) there is the road option. Many of the off road routes today were still boggy in places even though there has been little rain. If it was wet they would be very awkward. Now in Chantada at Hotel Mogay which is a good place. Very clean and smart. I paid 26 euros as a peregrino which is a significant discount to their 44 euro price on Booking.com.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Now in Chantada at Hotel Mogay which is a good place. Very clean and smart. I paid 26 euros as a peregrino which is a significant discount to their 44 euro price on Booking.com.

Oh, I have heard different reviews of this place, even recently. So it is worth staying?

 

[KinkyOne]

Oh, I have heard different reviews of this place, even recently. So it is worth staying?

I guess it's just personal thing. I've heard kind of bad reports and very good ones. For me, it's just a bed for the night, the cheaper the best as a only sleep there, I don't want to spend like 24 hours in there. Of course that goes also for the mattresses, which I hadn't really good in **whatever** pension in Chantada. When I'm tired it's the grill I can sleep on for that matter

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I guess it's just personal thing. I've heard kind of bad reports and very good ones. For me, it's just a bed for the night, the cheaper the best as a only sleep there, I don't want to spend like 24 hours in there. Of course that goes also for the mattresses, which I hadn't really good in **whatever** pension in Chantada. When I'm tired it's the grill I can sleep on for that matter

I guess I will explore this on my own this summer, if I get that far ;OD

 

[MikeJS]

Nothing to fault about Hotel Mogay. May be a bit big but the staff were friendly, it was clean and I slept well. Only thing to be careful of is their claimed 1700 check in which I ignored and their claimed closure of reception between 1400 and 1700 when it was open all afternoon.

 

[MikeJS]

Chantada to Rodeiro 26kms

Yesterday Cafe Amedeo's was great. No food in the evening until 2100, but then menu la dia at 10 euros with lots of meat. Then they ask if you want more!

Temperature is climbing now. Got to the low 30s yesterday and it's mid 30s today. It may only be 26kms but that is one 600m climb and then a 500m descent. A beautiful clear day to start and a magnificent walk. The climb was easier than expected and I was up the top in 3 hrs. From the ermita the way down is very clearly marked, as is this complete section. The view from the top was as good as expected and as you descend I think the views are just as good. Lots of new mojons on the down section and a whole pile by the roadside waiting to be placed. There is an open bar (1300) in A Keira about 5 kms before Rodeiro and they have an Invierno sello! Very friendly.

Staying in the Pension O Guerra which is excellent and it's a great restaurant as well. Lovely room for only 20 euros booked via Facebook which got an almost immediate response. Be aware though it's Restaurant O Guerra on Facebook not Pension. Off to Silleda tomorrow. Still no other peregrinos seen and no dog problems.

 

[KinkyOne]

Chantada to Rodeiro 26kms

Yesterday Cafe Amedeo's was great. No food in the evening until 2100, but then menu la dia at 10 euros with lots of meat. Then they ask if you want more!

Temperature is climbing now. Got to the low 30s yesterday and it's mid 30s today. It may only be 26kms but that is one 600m climb and then a 500m descent. A beautiful clear day to start and a magnificent walk. The climb was easier than expected and I was up the top in 3 hrs. From the ermita the way down is very clearly marked, as is this complete section. The view from the top was as good as expected and as you descend I think the views are just as good. Lots of new mojons on the down section and a whole pile by the roadside waiting to be placed. There is an open bar (1300) in A Keira about 5 kms before Rodeiro and they have an Invierno sello! Very friendly.

Staying in the Pension O Guerra which is excellent and it's a great restaurant as well. Lovely room for only 20 euros booked via Facebook which got an almost immediate response. Be aware though it's Restaurant O Guerra on Facebook not Pension. Off to Silleda tomorrow. Still no other peregrinos seen and no dog problems.

Agree completely, this leg isn't all that tough as it looks on the map and profile charts. And it's pure delight!
I stayed at pension As Carpinteiras further up the street in Rodeiro and they gave me a room with magnificent view to the west. I was watching planes heading to Santiago all evening and was very sad after such a magnificent stage knowing the end of my Camino was near.
Enjoy those last days!!!

 

[MikeJS]

Rodeiro to Silleda 40kms

Rodeiro was a pleasant smallish place with a surprising number of restaurants and bars. Excellent meal in O Guerra with the best ever tarta Di Santiago I've had - home made. 10 euros for as much as you want to eat and drink! Another lovely walk today which was mostly extremely well marked. The stretch at the beginning to Penerbosa would be very muddy if there had been any rain. The route into Lalin was very good as well as it avoided the road as far as possible. Also it's a nice(ish) riverside walk out but with no arrows for 4km but you just follow the path. Unfortunately, it's all a bit like a Municipal park. Passed 2 Spanish peregrinos today on the Invierno and no dog problems. Fortunately, I got to A Laxe at 1300 and all the other peregrinos on the Sanabres must have gone to the albergue as I didn't see a single one all the way to Silleda. Got to see my favourite place on all my Caminos again which is the Punta Romana about 3kms after Prado. I would love to have a swim there but cannot see a safe way down!! Now in the Grand Albergue Silleda which is 10 euros for a private single room and has a good bar attached. Santiago de Compestela tomorrow!!

 

[MikeJS]

Silleda to Santiago de Compestela 42kms
Lovely clear blue sky at start and a nice shady walk most of the way which at the time was good as it was getting very warm. I obviously timed my walk to perfection as I did not see another peregrino until I got to Santiago! Stopped at Punte Ulla for a quick lunch which is where I stayed the night before entering Santiago last year. From about 15kms away from Santiago I could see, and hear, a huge thunder storm behind me. So I walked a bit faster and got to the cathedral just before the heavens opened! In fact just got my beer in my hand as the rain started.

 

[KinkyOne]

Congratulations, Mike! It's been nice to "walk" with you.
Enjoy your well deserved beer

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Chantada to Rodeiro 26kms

Yesterday Cafe Amedeo's was great. No food in the evening until 2100, but then menu la dia at 10 euros with lots of meat. Then they ask if you want more!

Temperature is climbing now. Got to the low 30s yesterday and it's mid 30s today. It may only be 26kms but that is one 600m climb and then a 500m descent. A beautiful clear day to start and a magnificent walk. The climb was easier than expected and I was up the top in 3 hrs. From the ermita the way down is very clearly marked, as is this complete section. The view from the top was as good as expected and as you descend I think the views are just as good. Lots of new mojons on the down section and a whole pile by the roadside waiting to be placed. There is an open bar (1300) in A Keira about 5 kms before Rodeiro and they have an Invierno sello! Very friendly.

Staying in the Pension O Guerra which is excellent and it's a great restaurant as well. Lovely room for only 20 euros booked via Facebook which got an almost immediate response. Be aware though it's Restaurant O Guerra on Facebook not Pension. Off to Silleda tomorrow. Still no other peregrinos seen and no dog problems.

The last picture is the room where I stayed! :O)

Very nice owners and the best food on the Invierno in the Restaurante O Guerra!

/BP

 

[KinkyOne]

The last picture is the room where I stayed! :O)

Very nice owners and the best food on the Invierno in the Restaurante O Guerra!

/BP

Hehehe, a "room with a beer"?

 

[MikeJS]

Camino Sureste

34 days to Santiago de Compestela via Camino Sureste, Via dela Plata, Frances and Camino Invierno. This is a challenging Camino if only because you may be the only one on it! I like walking by myself and a didn't see another peregrino between Alicante and Benavente on the path and only saw 2 until I got to Astorga. Lots on the Frances obviously, but again only me on the Invierno. In fact I saw more peregrinos while I ate a roll in Astorga than I had seen all of the previous days. Accommodation is fine using a mixture of albergues, Hostals, Booking.com and Airbnb.
The Invierno is a magnificent route, but I think you need to be camino fit before you start. Also it suffers from the normal 'chicken and egg ' dilemma. It needs more options to stay. More importantly it need some half way decent places to eat! Until it can at least offer some reasonable food on the way then it's never going to get more popular. As a route it is a far better option than the Frances, but it totally lacks the infrastructure. Clearly, the local organisations are trying hard but given how many of the villages are already collapsing it's hard up see how they can succeed. Maybe in the end that's a good thing for those of us that like a challenge ?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

It needs more options to stay. More importantly it need some half way decent places to eat!

Okay, I didn't percieve it that way and didn't have any problems about food or where to stay. But we all have different impressions. And in a way, I can see what you mean: compared to other Caminos those factors are less present and of course there is room for improvement... About it being a challenge, I totally agree.

About "villages collapsing": I wonder if it is different in summer (July) when I usually go... Summer = villages fill up with people on holiday? Cause I did see quite a lot of them... And of their dogs :O(

/BP

 

[MikeJS]

There were a number of places on the Invierno where I could not get any meal in the evening hence the 'Dia picnic' and many where the choice was extremely limited. Not a massive problem for me but if the route is to be more popular then it would be a problem for many people. As to the villages collapsing- I still see very few young people and still a large number of businesses and homes closing. Take Belasar for example, what would appear to be an ideal location and would in many other countries be at worst full of holiday homes, has almost as many properties abandoned as lived in. However, beyond that in all but the larger towns you barely see anyone other than the very old and that's especially true of the smaller farms and small holdings.

 

[KinkyOne]

WHAAAAT?
"More importantly it need some half way decent places to eat!"
&
"As a route it is a far better option than the Frances, but it totally lacks the infrastructure."

I simply don't get it. The restaurants are almost on the same distances as on CF just maybe there are not that much of them. But then a decent place to eat for me is also a bench and a table in a park
And I've found infrastructure more than adequate and that was 3 years ago

 

[Anemone del Camino]

WHAAAAT?

Hey, I met a spaniard who had been on the Invierno and did not like anything about it, to the extent he moved on to another route.

We all experience things differently.

 

[KinkyOne]

Hey, I met a spaniard who had been on the Invierno and did not like anything about it, to the extent he moved on to another route.

We all experience things differently.

Completely agree, Anemone!

But my post wasn't at all about discussion. There's nothing to discuss when personal observations are the case. And even if they were that would be with Mike
Anyway thank you for contributing!

 

[nycwalking]

Congrats.

 

[MikeJS]

WHAAAAT?
"More importantly it need some half way decent places to eat!"
&
"As a route it is a far better option than the Frances, but it totally lacks the infrastructure."

I simply don't get it. The restaurants are almost on the same distances as on CF just maybe there are not that much of them. But then a decent place to eat for me is also a bench and a table in a park
And I've found infrastructure more than adequate and that was 3 years ago

There were many places where I simply could not get a meal in the evening or not before 2130. For me it's fine as in the end I'll go to the supermarket. However, if the route is to get more popular (and it certainly warrants it as the way is fabulous) the places need to provide food and maybe even tell people with a sign outside that they have food, what it is and when it's served. I just got a bit tired of trolling around the bars at night trying to find who, if any, were serving that night.

 

[peregrina2000]

Monforte de Lemos to Chantida 31kms

Hotel was fine and had a good meal just down the road. The info in the guide is incorrect about the wine tasting as at least on Sundays it's a tour at 1830 and then A tour at 1930.

Another great walk today except for the dull straight road at the start to Vide. Markings to get out of the city are faint but ok. As mentioned in the guide there are a couple of places where you should be taken off road. At A Vide the right turn is not signed as being the camino and the path that you can see appear impassable. Also just before Pineiro you now turn about 100m up the road from where the Camino used to turn off the road. This stretch is poorly marked. There were 3 small yappy dogs at Barxa but I just threw them a few doggy treats and they shut up.

I was also dive bombed by some aggressive swallows along this stretch!!

The route down to Belasar is not well marked but keep heading down and you can't get lost. The views here are spectacular. Got to the bottom and as usual the bar closed at 1130. I think it's a significant indication of the poor state of the Spanish economy given that in the beautiful setting of Belasar there are still numerous empty and abandoned houses. The climb up from there is tough and for those less inclined(!) there is the road option. Many of the off road routes today were still boggy in places even though there has been little rain. If it was wet they would be very awkward. Now in Chantada at Hotel Mogay which is a good place. Very clean and smart. I paid 26 euros as a peregrino which is a significant discount to their 44 euro price on Booking.com.

Thanks, Mike, I am getting good tidbits for the guide. Was picture 3738 taken on the descent to the Minho from Diomondi? How did you cross it?!

 

[MikeJS]

Thanks, Mike, I am getting good tidbits for the guide. Was picture 3738 taken on the descent to the Minho from Diomondi? How did you cross it?!

Bit busy at the moment but I will reply asap.

 

[MikeJS]

Got it now. That photo was taken between Pineiro and O Camino Grandee and I think it was in the last km to OCG ( at least that is what my ‘places’ record of the photo on the mac says!). As for crossing it I just walked around the far edge and jumped! Stayed mostly dry. Where do you see the photo?

 

[peregrina2000]

Got it now. That photo was taken between Pineiro and O Camino Grandee and I think it was in the last km to OCG ( at least that is what my ‘places’ record of the photo on the mac says!). As for crossing it I just walked around the far edge and jumped! Stayed mostly dry. Where do you see the photo?

Thanks, Mike, it's one of the pictures posted on your comment number 14 on this thread, describing your day from Monforte to Chantada.

Going from Piñeiro to O Camiño Grande used to be like falling into a deep black hole. It was impossible! I remember when no one was able to find their way, but the signage was much improved the last time I went through. It was awfully muddy almost all the time, and most of it went through a green tunnel where there was no easy way to get up above the muddy path. I remember several now funny incidents, usually involving me falling backwards and feeling the way turtles must feel when they get turned over.

There is a lot of description still in the guide talking about this stretch, but I am tempted to take it out since the marking is better. Here is what it says, do you have an opinion about whether I should take it out? I do hope to get the unnecessary verbiage out, but not at the expense of clarity. Thanks much, and no problem if you don't have time think about this now! Laurie


At the fountain of Piñeiro, the water is sweet, delicious, and welcome. This is a great picnic spot. If you plan to stay at La Rectoral de Castillón casa rural (a splendid option at a good price) this is the place to phone up Rosa, the proprietor, and ask for a ride. The inn is very nearby, but walking directions are unclear. She can return you to the fountain in the morning, or set you down at a place along the road if there is too much mud.

From Piñeiro onward to Camiño Grande, the markings are immeasurably improved since my first Invierno in 2010. Very shortly after Piñeiro, a mojón takes you off the LU-P-4112 and onto a path. It’s a lovely walk, through fields and green tunnels, with stone walls on either side. Flooding and overgrown brush may still be a problem, but the odds of getting lost are now very low. In contrast, between 2010 and 2013, nearly all pilgrims I heard from got lost on this stretch.

Consider the pictures posted on this blog, particularly the ones indicated at the times of 11:40 through 12:24. These pictures illustrate a marked path between Piñeiro and Camiño Grande, and is the route we should all be looking for!

http://www.tumbarumba.co.uk/PILGRIM WALKS/Camino 2014 Part 2/ Day%209%20Monforte%20to%20Belesar.htm

 

[MikeJS]

I forgot I had put photos on here! As I post on here, Facebook and on my blog its easy to forget what I put where!
As for the descriptions I don’t remember having any problem finding my way through this stretch as I think the yellow arrows were very well placed. However, although such long descriptions do not suit me I know some people really appreciate such detail.
I’m considering walking the Camino Olvidado next and may well walk the Invierno again………