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Walking the Mozarabe from 18th Feb

ChrisMac

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Norte, Portuguese, Madrid, Primitivo, Salvador....next is Mozarabe
Hello fellow Camino fans!! I have been walking various sections of the life changing Camino for the last 5 years. After a break of 9 months I'm keen to get back for another taste. So I'm planning on fleeing the cold wet conditions of the UK to walk a section of the Mozarabe...does anyone have any tips? Also are there any advantages to starting in either Malaga or Granada? Thank you xx
 

jpflavin1

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF(10,11,17), Vasco(12), Salvador(13), CP(13), CN(14), Madrid (16), Mozarabe (18), VdlP(19)
Hello fellow Camino fans!! I have been walking various sections of the life changing Camino for the last 5 years. After a break of 9 months I'm keen to get back for another taste. So I'm planning on fleeing the cold wet conditions of the UK to walk a section of the Mozarabe...does anyone have any tips? Also are there any advantages to starting in either Malaga or Granada? Thank you xx
I walked this route last year. It is well marked and supported by the local Camino association. In the Mozarabe thread, you will find lots of information on the route. I started in Malaga.

Ultreya,
Joe
 

Martyduc

Hunter Valley,Australia
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 15,Portuguese 16,Finisterre Muxia 16,Ingles16,, Almeria to Muxia,Finesterre 18,,Via Serrana
I would definitely recommend the Almeria to Granada section of the Mozarabe ,,,and the Association that takes care of that is fantastic ,,, great little albergues ,,,great personal touches from the people involved ,, strange and wonderful scenery ,,, so far my favourite !!! and also very quiet ,,and the walk into Granada with the Alhambra Palace ahead ,,with the Sierra Nevada off to the left ,, say hi to Veronica too
 

steve cole

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Starting the french way today
Hello fellow Camino fans!! I have been walking various sections of the life changing Camino for the last 5 years. After a break of 9 months I'm keen to get back for another taste. So I'm planning on fleeing the cold wet conditions of the UK to walk a section of the Mozarabe...does anyone have any tips? Also are there any advantages to starting in either Malaga or Granada? Thank you xx
I start on Wednesday from Almeria, I would suggest go from Almeria, there are donatavo's between Almeria and Granada, the Camino amigos between Almeria and Granada are amazing and very helpful
 

Raggy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
I will add my voice to the others who recommend starting in Almeria. You will not find a more welcoming group of volunteers anywhere, period.
 

ChrisMac

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Norte, Portuguese, Madrid, Primitivo, Salvador....next is Mozarabe
Thanks everyone!! Was kinda hoping for some more votes for the Malaga section as I fly into there Sunday night, start walking Monday and need to be back at Malaga airport early Friday afternoon. Have looked at getting to Ameria, walking to Granada, then getting back to Malaga but it appears I don't have enough of that precious commodity.....time!

Great to hear all of your experiences though!

Un abrazo grande!

Chris
 

Raggy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
Buen camino!
I recommend that you check out magwood's blog of the route:
 

madeleinep

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Santiago to Finisterre 2004
St Jean Pied du Pont to Santiago September 8 2017
I would definitely recommend the Almeria to Granada section of the Mozarabe ,,,and the Association that takes care of that is fantastic ,,, great little albergues ,,,great personal touches from the people involved ,, strange and wonderful scenery ,,, so far my favourite !!! and also very quiet ,,and the walk into Granada with the Alhambra Palace ahead ,,with the Sierra Nevada off to the left ,, say hi to Veronica too
This section starting from Granada is new to me. I was thinking of introducing my 26 year old daughter to the Camino Frances which I did in 2017, but reading about the Mozarabe has intrigued me. Did you fly into Malaga? and where was your starting place? Is there a good guide book I could get before we start mid April I feel that area would be crowded during Semana Santa?
You mentioned friendly Albergues, are they frequent like every 10 - 12 miles like on the Frances? I'm excited by a very different part of Spain!
Thanks for your input.
Madeleine
 

Martyduc

Hunter Valley,Australia
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 15,Portuguese 16,Finisterre Muxia 16,Ingles16,, Almeria to Muxia,Finesterre 18,,Via Serrana
so totally different from the Camino Frances ,,,if you start in Almeria ,,,you need to check out the "Camino Mozarabe de Santiago de Almeria to Granada" ,,,they have a online guide which is updated every month,, all the info is there ,,,but it can be a quite solitary Camino ,,, often only one pilgrim a day ,,,I struck it last year with 5 ,,me and 2 couples started on the same day ,,,, and there is only one place per day to stop ,,,the albergues are usually donative and are fantastic,,occasional bigger towns may have a hotel to stop at ,,, 9 days from Almeria to Granada,,, and last year I took 4 days off in Granada to enjoy and be part of Semana Santa ,,and of course had prebooked my ticket to visit the Alhambra !!!! some say its like the Camino Frances was like 30 years ago ,,,I loved it !!!!
 
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Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
See signature line for links to daily posts to blogs from many caminos
Hi @ChrisMac. I can give you a vote for a Málaga start. How far are you intending to walk? There are likely to be more pilgrims on the route from Granada. I walked from Almería last year and there were way more pilgrims than I had expected, to the extent that there was an issue for accommodation at a couple of stage ends.

@Raggy kindly recommended my blog above - the link takes you to my walk from Málaga in 2015 when we encountered almost no other pilgrims before Mérida. So it might be a bit lonely if you are walking alone, unless this route has also become a lot more popular in the last few years.

I also posted to my blog about my walk from Almería so you should be able to find lots of useful information to help you decide.

Personally, I like to start a camino ‘at the beginning’, which would be another plus for setting out from Málaga.

Buen camino - let us know what you decide.
 

Raggy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
Did you fly into Malaga?
Depending on where you're starting, you might find convenient flights to Malaga, Granada, or Almeria. You can start the Camino from any of those cities, or take a bus to any other starting point.
Is there a good guide book
This English guide is a little old, but it gives you a reasonable introduction to the Mozarabic caminos:
When you have chosen a route, you should download up-to-date guides from the association.
You mentioned friendly Albergues, are they frequent like every 10 - 12 miles like on the Frances?
It's not a path with a vibrant community of pilgrims and a pilgrim-oriented economy like the Frances. If you feel that the Camino is about interacting with other pilgrims every day, attending pilgrim masses in the towns that you pass through, having many options for food and accommodation in every pueblo, finding convenient services in English, it won't meet your expectations.
But it's the right path if you think you might enjoy a meditative, solitary, camino. The route is rich in history and culture. It takes pilgrims through some of the most stunning cities and landscapes. There's a warmth in the welcome that you get in Andalucia and Extremadura - from the association volunteers who look out for you as though you were family to the random strangers that you meet along the way.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
This section starting from Granada is new to me. I was thinking of introducing my 26 year old daughter to the Camino Frances which I did in 2017, but reading about the Mozarabe has intrigued me. Did you fly into Malaga? and where was your starting place? Is there a good guide book I could get before we start mid April I feel that area would be crowded during Semana Santa?
You mentioned friendly Albergues, are they frequent like every 10 - 12 miles like on the Frances? I'm excited by a very different part of Spain!
Thanks for your input.
Madeleine
Hi, Madeleine,
For the Mozárabe, you have a lot of choices. You can start in Málaga, you can start in Almería, or you can start in Jaén. This guide is in Spanish, but you can see the choices there. http://www.caminomozarabedesantiago.es/documentos/guia-esp.pdf

I flew into Madrid from the US and then connected to a flight to Almería. Getting into town from the airport is easy -- I know some forum members took a bus, but I ran into another forum member on the plane and he wanted to start walking immediately. So he paid for a taxi and I hopped in.

You can´t expect albergues every 10-12 kms, but those of us who started in Almería last year did not have a problem planning stages. I agree with those who say the pilgrim infrastructure is better between Almería and Granada than Granada and Mérida (where it merges with the Vdlp). But if you are not wed to albergues and can afford to stay in pensiones, Granada to Mérida is a pretty awesome stretch as well.

The Almería association has a great guide, updated regularly, which lists all albergues and any private accommodation under 25€. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dMVIXVunE82lC-ON8x5o3ycAwL10g-TI/view

It is also in Spanish, but pretty self-explanatory for the most part.

Lots of choices! buen camino, Laurie

p.s. Alex (formerly of the Bodenaya albergue on the Primitivo) is currently walking the Mozárabe from Almería. Pictures on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/albergue.bodenaya
 

ChrisMac

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances, Norte, Portuguese, Madrid, Primitivo, Salvador....next is Mozarabe
Hi @ChrisMac. I can give you a vote for a Málaga start. How far are you intending to walk? There are likely to be more pilgrims on the route from Granada. I walked from Almería last year and there were way more pilgrims than I had expected, to the extent that there was an issue for accommodation at a couple of stage ends.

@Raggy kindly recommended my blog above - the link takes you to my walk from Málaga in 2015 when we encountered almost no other pilgrims before Mérida. So it might be a bit lonely if you are walking alone, unless this route has also become a lot more popular in the last few years.

I also posted to my blog about my walk from Almería so you should be able to find lots of useful information to help you decide.

Personally, I like to start a camino ‘at the beginning’, which would be another plus for setting out from Málaga.

Buen camino - let us know what you decide.
Hi Magwood! Thanks for the vote. Im planning to start walking on Monday 18th and walk until Thursday 21st...so 4 days in all; then get back to Malaga to fly home on the Friday. Hoping to get to Lucena. I can't believe I've only just found this forum after 5 years of walking many different caminos.

I have walked several caminos where I have been the only pilgrim, e.g. SanSalvador ( which is incredibly stunning by the way) and the Camino de Madrid. I guess some company may be nice though....I ll see what the Camino Gods provide...

Is it very strenuous by the way?

Thanks in advance!

Chris
 

Magwood

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
See signature line for links to daily posts to blogs from many caminos
Hi Magwood! Thanks for the vote. Im planning to start walking on Monday 18th and walk until Thursday 21st...so 4 days in all; then get back to Malaga to fly home on the Friday. Hoping to get to Lucena. I can't believe I've only just found this forum after 5 years of walking many different caminos.

I have walked several caminos where I have been the only pilgrim, e.g. SanSalvador ( which is incredibly stunning by the way) and the Camino de Madrid. I guess some company may be nice though....I ll see what the Camino Gods provide...

Is it very strenuous by the way?

Thanks in advance!

Chris
Hi Chris. Yes, there is quite a lot of elevation during the first few stages. You will be doing well to reach Lucena in four days. Perhaps consider jumping on a bus to Junta de Los Caminos on the first day which will save you 12 km of trudging along nondescript sidewalk on exiting Málaga city.

Try and make some time to wander around Antequera which is the only town of particular note that you will pass through before Lucena.

Sadly, it seems you are Likely to encounter rain on Monday, although the weather looks promising after that.

You can pick up a credencial in the cathedral library and try to get your first sello in the Church of Santiago.

Buen camino!
 

ngm

" hikelover "
Camino(s) past & future
2010 - Camino Francés to Finisterre 840 km.
2012 - Via de la Plata/ Camino Sanabres some 1000 km
2014 - Camino de Levante/ Sureste .. and ending with the Camino de Invierno ( 1200 km )
2016 - Camino Mozárabe (- de la Plata -Sanabres /Invierno) from Granada to Santiago de Compostela ( 1180 km )
We have started our 4th long Camino, ( look at the list at my Camino CV ;)) from Granada at May/2016... We were very few on the whole way to Merida...[from Merida we continued to Santiago , after moving on to the Camino Sanabres.. ]
The Camino Mozárabe is very wel marked. It has nice/good enough places to make the night. Historicaly very intresting and we loved it very much.

- Walikng this time of the year one have to be ready for walking in muddy roads and fields..

- If you walk to Cordoba, do not walk directly from Castro del Rio which is about 40 k...take the alternativ that take you first to Espejo, and Santa Cruz..make the night there..and walk to Cordoba day after..the way as I wrote, is very wel marked..Espejo and Santa Cruz make the distans abit longer..yes but you cut it to two parts, and se a beautiful way..and dont miss the "la muzuita" in Cordoba.. / 🙏👣 Buen Camino
 

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madeleinep

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Santiago to Finisterre 2004
St Jean Pied du Pont to Santiago September 8 2017
Hi, Madeleine,
For the Mozárabe, you have a lot of choices. You can start in Málaga, you can start in Almería, or you can start in Jaén. This guide is in Spanish, but you can see the choices there. http://www.caminomozarabedesantiago.es/documentos/guia-esp.pdf

I flew into Madrid from the US and then connected to a flight to Almería. Getting into town from the airport is easy -- I know some forum members took a bus, but I ran into another forum member on the plane and he wanted to start walking immediately. So he paid for a taxi and I hopped in.

You can´t expect albergues every 10-12 kms, but those of us who started in Almería last year did not have a problem planning stages. I agree with those who say the pilgrim infrastructure is better between Almería and Granada than Granada and Mérida (where it merges with the Vdlp). But if you are not wed to albergues and can afford to stay in pensiones, Granada to Mérida is a pretty awesome stretch as well.

The Almería association has a great guide, updated regularly, which lists all albergues and any private accommodation under 25€. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dMVIXVunE82lC-ON8x5o3ycAwL10g-TI/view

It is also in Spanish, but pretty self-explanatory for the most part.

Lots of choices! buen camino, Laurie

p.s. Alex (formerly of the Bodenaya albergue on the Primitivo) is currently walking the Mozárabe from Almería. Pictures on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/albergue.bodenaya
Thank you for your input.
I would like to start from Malaga and wondered what the transportation is like between towns on the way to Granada. My daughter isn't wild on hiking but I'd love to introduce her to the Camino. I wondered if we could walk 5 -7 miles and get a bus to the next albergue or place to stay approx. every 25 k or so.
Madeleine
 

Raggy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
Thank you for your input.
I would like to start from Malaga and wondered what the transportation is like between towns on the way to Granada. My daughter isn't wild on hiking but I'd love to introduce her to the Camino. I wondered if we could walk 5 -7 miles and get a bus to the next albergue or place to stay approx. every 25 k or so.
Madeleine
I guess it would tricky logistically.
It's possible to search for the bus routes from place to place, cross referencing the route in the guide:
For example, Malaga to Almogia is served by M-250 with 6 departures per day from Monday to Friday ...
But that bus doesn't follow the camino route exactly ... so you'd have to divert from the Camino to meet the bus in Puertosol. which would require some navigation without the arrows. Expect transportation services to get scarcer as you get further from Malaga. And good luck finding any transport on Sundays.

A better plan (in my opinion) would be to base yourself in one place - Spend a few days at a Casa Rural on the way to Granada, and do a series of day hikes, including some of the Camino route, and some walks in the Sierra Nevada mountains. With this plan you would have no bus timetables to worry about, and no heavy rucksack. I'm not sure where to recommend on the way from Malaga, since I haven't walked that route. The places that I know which would be ideal for this would be Quentar or Güéjar Sierra. (Strictly speaking, Güéjar isn't on the camino, but it's beautiful).

I would urge you to use private accommodations - hostals, casas rurales, hotels etc. - rather than albergues, for this kind of plan. It's tourism not pilgrimage, after all.
 

madeleinep

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Santiago to Finisterre 2004
St Jean Pied du Pont to Santiago September 8 2017
I guess it would tricky logistically.
It's possible to search for the bus routes from place to place, cross referencing the route in the guide:
For example, Malaga to Almogia is served by M-250 with 6 departures per day from Monday to Friday ...
But that bus doesn't follow the camino route exactly ... so you'd have to divert from the Camino to meet the bus in Puertosol. which would require some navigation without the arrows. Expect transportation services to get scarcer as you get further from Malaga. And good luck finding any transport on Sundays.

A better plan (in my opinion) would be to base yourself in one place - Spend a few days at a Casa Rural on the way to Granada, and do a series of day hikes, including some of the Camino route, and some walks in the Sierra Nevada mountains. With this plan you would have no bus timetables to worry about, and no heavy rucksack. I'm not sure where to recommend on the way from Malaga, since I haven't walked that route. The places that I know which would be ideal for this would be Quentar or Güéjar Sierra. (Strictly speaking, Güéjar isn't on the camino, but it's beautiful).

I would urge you to use private accommodations - hostals, casas rurales, hotels etc. - rather than albergues, for this kind of plan. It's tourism not pilgrimage, after all.
I came to a very similar result after thinking this through. Yes this isn't my camino, it's travel in Andalucia with my daughter. Getting my foot on the Mozarabe with be what I need to return next year !
Many thanks for your idea.
Madeleine
 

Raggy

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Mozarabe Almeria (2017)
Cherhill to Canterbury - Pilgrims' Way (2018)
Via Francigena (2019)
I came to a very similar result after thinking this through. Yes this isn't my camino, it's travel in Andalucia with my daughter. Getting my foot on the Mozarabe with be what I need to return next year !
Many thanks for your idea.
Madeleine
Take a look at Guejar Sierra - I was there last year and thought it was beautiful. The Camino Mozarabe passes through the next valley. The reason I mention it is because its a centre with biking, hiking, and other sporty things going on. Potentially more interesting if one of you isn't wild about hiking. It's also relatively close to Granada, so you could split your time between the city and the mountains if you wanted to.
 

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