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Walking the Norte? Best to read this page first...

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New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Hello Marty
I'll be following this thread with interest as we start from Irun on the 4th May and still deciding whether to branch off on the Primitivo. Will have to assess how the feet/legs are going at that time. Would love to do the CF again but keen to try a different Camino. Cheers Lori
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Wonderful if she took the coastal alternatives?
 
She does have some interesting comments about the gear she uses.
I tent and/or hammock camp on camino. She seems to dislike down bags.
I follow all of her reasons; but, my down bag is light weight, always warm and tough.

Also, I recently found this page for camino (posted by Peter):

https://www.gronze.com

Seems to be a excellent page.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Hello Marty
I'll be following this thread with interest as we start from Irun on the 4th May and still deciding whether to branch off on the Primitivo. Will have to assess how the feet/legs are going at that time. Would love to do the CF again but keen to try a different Camino. Cheers Lori

Hi best wishes for your upcoming camino Norte.

One way or the other I will either bike the VdlP or walk the Norte this April. Starting around 8 or so of April.
If doing the Norte I will also start from I r u n. (darn spell checker won't let me spell I R U N. )

Here is a interesting page that may help you in your walk posted by Peter:

https://www.gronze.com
 
And doesn't sound like the Norte comments I have read on this forum either.
Can you provide comments (pro & con) about your walk on Norte?
Thanks

Hey I found your comments on another thread. Same subject matter: Norte camino.

Thanks for all of the great information you have provided.
 
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And doesn't sound like the Norte comments I have read on this forum either.
Can you provide comments (pro & con) about your walk on Norte?
Thanks

Of course- but keep in mind that what makes one person happy might feel awful to someone else.

The scenery for the most part, for me anyway, was beautiful. Are there urban/industrial areas to navigate? For sure, but to me they represented a small part of the overall landscape.

Did I have to walk on asphalt? Yes, I couldn't begin to give you a percentage because I didn't keep track. Truth be told, after the first week of never-ending up and downhill on steep, rocky terrain, a paved bike path was a welcome sight. Also, I believe that @peregrina2000 has posted extensively about alternatives to the "official" camino route that take you along coastal paths. Walking on asphalt is not a requirement any more, it's a choice.

As someone else pointed out, the OP seems to come from more of a wilderness hiking background. Camino routes are not intended to be back country hikes.

What I find interesting about this thread is that a single negative review from someone who seems to be a stranger vs. a trusted friend, has the power to get so many people questioning their plans. For the most part we all see the world through different eyes. Why let one person's capacity to focus on what's not working for them, instead of what does work for the most part, send us running in the other direction. If you asked 5 different people to describe their experiences on the Norte, you would likely get 5 different accounts.

Back in time someone started a thread on all of the reasons why one should not walk the Norte. It generated A LOT of comment both pro and con. It might be interesting to revisit it and see how those comments compare to today's discussion.

Buen camino.
 
I think there was discussion way back in 2012 about this or a similar blog. The lady was not a pilgrim (walking to Santiago for any spiritual reason) and was more used to wilderness hiking. Others have commented on the paving, but it all depends on whether you take the alternatives, follow the yellow arrows or use GPS etc. Motivation, whether spiritual or not also colours outlook and ths lady just seemed ready to criticise anything that did not fit her ideas of 'how it should be'.

The comments re the Norte from forum members, especially recent threads/posts, should be a more accurate picture of the reality.
Buen Camino
 
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very interesting to read some thought from someone not camino-related. thru-hiking is an entirely different community.

personally, I found camino del norte quite different. yes, there is still a lot of asphalt if you follow the main official camino, but even then there have been improvements. certainly it is not true that there are no paths or at least dirt lanes. I found the coastal scenery beautiful (but I did take several coastal alternatives to enjoy it the most). there are also several stretches of the official camino away from any roads and their noise.

what the norte still lacks is a better pilgrim infrasctructure in terms of accommodation. it is gaining in popularity and the demand still outweights what is available, even during summer months when all the school dorms are open. there are several threads about camping on the norte, and I think it can be done with some discretion.

don't be put off by christine's blog!
 
I am very glad that all of you posted replies re Christine's blog on the Norte.

Thank you.

Based on her review re the Norte, I was almost ready to rule out the Norte and do the VdlP instead.

My head is not wrapped around doing the Plata...biking or walking...yet. Too long. Too hot...even in April. Getting into the 20s (C) here in Seville now. Each day is hotter. Soon will be in the 30s (C).

Since I grew up in Ferrol and in Seville, I feel at home in both Galicia and in Seville as well.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Christine's reviews of equipment is also something to read.

Seems her shoes wear out fast.
I did not like her "best tent to use" review. The Rainbow has issues.

I always take my Feather Friends down bag on all of my trips. Never failed.
Yes, down will clump up when wet. Just don't get it wet. Air out when possible to avoid any moisture retention. Weight to warmth ratio down is the best.
 
To be honest this seems to reinforce what I posted. Her attitude to the Camino was very different to that of most walking, whether as spiritual or non spiritual pilgrims.
Of course it is very different and she makes no bones about it. That's why my advice would be: Don't read camino blogs/assessments by and for hard-core thru-hikers like Christine Thürmer or Francis Tapon unless you want to bash them. Consult the vlogs and blogs of standard camino pilgrims. There are really plenty of those available online to form an opinion about the Norte, no? :cool:
 
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St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I am thinking about either biking the VdlP or walking the Norte this April (2018).

After reading this page about the Norte I have second thoughts about it.

http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/camino-del-norte-conclusion-and-tips.html

Love to hear comments from others.

I was surprised by her comments about the Norte.

These comments about the Norte are similar to the critique of the Francés that caused such a ruckus on the forum years ago. They are written from the perspective of someone who is a dedicated wilderness hiker and wild camper, has walked for 6 months on the PCT -- for starters. I think that anyone else who has walked the AT or the PCT and is considering whether they would enjoy any particular camino has to realize that if they go to a camino expecting a long thru-hike, they will be disappointed.

But come on, some of the criticisms are really unfair. Anyone who complains about having to walk in and out of cities must not have looked at a map. And here is more evidence that she didn't do her homework at all -- if she was looking for more of a wilderness walk, the gorgeous coastal alternatives are about 2 km away! I agree that the endless pavement on the Norte is hard on the feet and unappealing, but there is an easy workaround if you are willing to leave the camino and strike out for the coast.

Her review of the Primitivo is a lot kinder, but all in all I agree with those who say this kind of review is helpful for one type of person only, and if you are not that person, don't be discouraged by these comments.
http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.co.uk/2012/09/camino-primitivo-conclusion.html
 
Christine Thürmer has made some additional comments on the Camino-pilgrimage hiking experience in Spain and I think it is a fair assessment:
http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/the-pilgrimage-experience-hiking.html
I read what she wrote and I thought it had a condescending tone and was amazingly judgmental. Just my humble judgement ☘. I have walked 3 times and have hiked all over North and South America. I have seen spectacular and moving natural landscapes on the Camino as well as my other trekd. But when I am alone and daydreaming the places I go to the most in my head and heart are the moments meeting people, the conversations and lifelong friends I have made along The Way.
 
Between CF, CP, Norte was my favorite. I will be walking VLDP in 2 weeks, and I know Norte will still come up on top. Can't wait to do it again.
 
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To me the blog looks like a review by someone who eats vegan or vegetarian of an "Argentinian steak grill restaurant".
Reminds me of the wonderful asado we had in Foz (Camino do Mar) in the restaurant run by an Argentinian family. A mix of various meats with a jamon and melon starter while it cooked.
 
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And doesn't sound like the Norte comments I have read on this forum either.
Can you provide comments (pro & con) about your walk on Norte?
Thanks

The blog under discussion is relatively old now (2012). Six years is a long time in the growth of infrastructure on the Caminos - especially the Norte / Primitivo. The coastal area is one that I would avoid in "High Season"! In April / May the beaches are relatively deserted - I guess the same applies for September / October.
Most of the walking on the Northern Caminos is on farm tracks and the coastal footpath.
Reading her comments on the Primitivo Blog I cannot think of anywhere that food supplies are not available every day (I walked in 2009 and again in 2012), and the Norte goes through at least one small town most days, so no problems there with food.
I put up a post on this thread (link below) suggesting that you download his file and then turn his comments into questions based on your own experience.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...east-not-until-you-have-read-this-post.37007/

Enjoy your planning :)
Tio Tel
 
Hmm, one might think that if someone was going to travel that far and at that expense they might have used a few hours to research the route, the country it passes through and the myriad of well documented and mapped options to take one off the highways and around the industrial areas if one so chooses. But, hey that's just my myopic view point as I count down the weeks to my Sep 2 start on the Norte via every off road and coastal option available.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Hmm, one might think that if someone was going to travel that far and at that expense they might have used a few hours to research the route, the country it passes through and the myriad of well documented and mapped options to take one off the highways and around the industrial areas if one so chooses. But, hey that's just my myopic view point as I count down the weeks to my Sep 2 start on the Norte via every off road and coastal option available.
Hi, FSP,
That should be a great time to walk. High tourist season will be down, but weather should be good.

If by chance you have looked at my post on the coastal alternatives, it would be great if you would report back with your opinions on the different options, so there are more opinions than just mine. Thanks and buen camino, Laurie
 
I thought parts of the Norte had some of the most beautiful scenery of all my caminos. I'm just looking at my photos, and they are absolutely spectacular! Agree that it is mixed, but that is the case with any long distance camino that goes through towns and cities. Besides, there are some of us (eg my husband) who are fascinated by industrial stuff.

We did not take the Primitivo but stayed on the Norte all the way. The walk south from Ribadeo I really enjoyed - beautiful Galician paths and some fascinating towns. Very few other pilgrims - most seem to take the Primitivo option.
 
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Between CF, CP, Norte was my favorite. I will be walking VLDP in 2 weeks, and I know Norte will still come up on top. Can't

You might be surprised by the Plata. Much less travelled than your other Camino experiences. It's something quite special:cool: Buen Camino!
 
These comments about the Norte are similar to the critique of the Francés that caused such a ruckus on the forum years ago. They are written from the perspective of someone who is a dedicated wilderness hiker and wild camper, has walked for 6 months on the PCT -- for starters. I think that anyone else who has walked the AT or the PCT and is considering whether they would enjoy any particular camino has to realize that if they go to a camino expecting a long thru-hike, they will be disappointed.

But come on, some of the criticisms are really unfair. Anyone who complains about having to walk in and out of cities must not have looked at a map. And here is more evidence that she didn't do her homework at all -- if she was looking for more of a wilderness walk, the gorgeous coastal alternatives are about 2 km away! I agree that the endless pavement on the Norte is hard on the feet and unappealing, but there is an easy workaround if you are willing to leave the camino and strike out for the coast.
Couldn't agree more. Even for a long distance hiker, she exaggerates big time. For example about the walks into bigger cities like San Sebastian and Santander. The stage from Irún to San Sebastian is utterly beautiful. On the last few kilometers you get a nice view from the mountain on the bay of San Sebastian. I can't remember any industrial zone at all. You just come down from the mountain and walk into the city. And for Santander it is almost even better, because you take a ferry straight into the city.

And I don't recognize the part about coastal tourism either (which, by the way only takes place in July and August). Yes, there are beaches, mostly in the Bask Country in towns like Zarautz and Deba. but especially the Asturian coast is one of the best protected coast lines that I know of. There are no big tourist buildings or whatsoever, because it is simply not allowed. You'll see meadows and mountains on your left side and secluded bays on your right side.
 
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Yes, what is the stuff about the coastal tourism all about? No high rise buildings that I recall.
 
Hi, FSP,
That should be a great time to walk. High tourist season will be down, but weather should be good.

If by chance you have looked at my post on the coastal alternatives, it would be great if you would report back with your opinions on the different options, so there are more opinions than just mine. Thanks and buen camino, Laurie
Yes I have gone through your posts and the attached PDF, which is now in my smart ph as well. Also plotted them into my Cicerone and Wise Pilgrim guide. You and others on the forum have provided some great options to make this a great Camino. Thank you!
Frank
 
A guide to speaking Spanish on the Camino - enrich your pilgrim experience.
Doesn't sound like the same Norte that I walked last year.
Yea. Me too. Loved it all. Even the industrial bits and huge concrete bridges were interesting. In August the coast was lovely. Of course beaches aren't going to be deserted.
 
I am thinking about either biking the VdlP or walking the Norte this April (2018).

After reading this page about the Norte I have second thoughts about it.

http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/camino-del-norte-conclusion-and-tips.html

Love to hear comments from others.

I was surprised by hear comments about the Norte.
I walked Del Norte and Primitivo spring of 2017. The coastline is spectacular and worth every step, be they on pavement, beaches or trail. If you do your homework plus ask at albergues you'll discover there is about one third of each, but you have to find the entry point for each of these three options. If it is as bad as she says, the majority of reports would support her claim. For crying out loud, there is no conspiracy about what the trail is. The Primitivo trail is mostly dirt and some gravel, plus lots of mountains. You'll like it. I never once met someone that complained about either trail .. except those who complained about blisters.
 
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I am thinking about either biking the VdlP or walking the Norte this April (2018).

After reading this page about the Norte I have second thoughts about it.

http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/camino-del-norte-conclusion-and-tips.html

Love to hear comments from others.

I was surprised by her comments about the Norte
I am thinking about either biking the VdlP or walking the Norte this April (2018).

After reading this page about the Norte I have second thoughts about it.

http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/camino-del-norte-conclusion-and-tips.html

Love to hear comments from others.

I was surprised by her comments about the Norte.
Totally disagree with her comments. She seems to have an agenda or preconceived notions or unhelpful comparisons. The norte is beautiful.
 
I am thinking about either biking the VdlP or walking the Norte this April (2018).

After reading this page about the Norte I have second thoughts about it.

http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/camino-del-norte-conclusion-and-tips.html

Love to hear comments from others.

I was surprised by her comments about the Norte.
I did the Norte from San Sebastian to Ribaldesea and thought it was wonderful. The coastline was beautiful, paths great, no garbage that I saw and not too many people. Yes, many parts were along the highway but there were some detours one could take. Because of blisters I did take a bus from Bilbao to Santander but both are cities worth checking out and San Sebastian is great. I then went down to the Frances and didn't like it at all. Very boring, drab parts like from Leon to Astorga. In fact I thought that stretch was God awful, and too many people even in October. I'd take the Norte over the Frances any day. In fact, I would never do the Frances again. I'l be doing the San Salvador and Primitivo this September
 
I am thinking about either biking the VdlP or walking the Norte this April (2018).

After reading this page about the Norte I have second thoughts about it.

http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/camino-del-norte-conclusion-and-tips.html

Love to hear comments from others.

I was surprised by her comments about the Norte.
I walked the Norte in 2015 and absolutely loved it. The scenery was fantastic. There was some road walking but it certainly wasn't a problem. I'd definitely go back and do it again. Don't let that blog put up off.
I've written a blog too if you'd like to read it the address is.
kayfuzzcamino2.blogspot.com
Buen Camino
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I am thinking about either biking the VdlP or walking the Norte this April (2018).

After reading this page about the Norte I have second thoughts about it.

http://christine-on-big-trip.blogspot.com/2012/09/camino-del-norte-conclusion-and-tips.html

Love to hear comments from others.

I was surprised by her comments about the Norte.

Someone once told an old relation of mine the "World was Flat "
I was once told" The Name and The Date on Newspapers you take as correct " not much else.
There is and should be a diversity of views as witnessed above.
Enjoy your coming Camino
 
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I walked the Norte in 2015 and absolutely loved it. The scenery was fantastic. There was some road walking but it certainly wasn't a problem. I'd definitely go back and do it again. Don't let that blog put up off.
I've written a blog too if you'd like to read it the address is.
kayfuzzcamino2.blogspot.com
Buen Camino
 
I agree the Norte was wonderful and I would go back and do it again also. As Kay said "don't let that blog put you off." Do the Norte!
 
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Apologies if this is the wrong thread to post a related question about the Norte. We intend to follow Peregrina 2000s coastal variants and am wondering about the Santander to Boo section. It's a bit too far for our group to go the whole way to Boo but the Posada del Morena has not availability on our date in September. Would it make sense to shorten the day by stopping in Liencras? Appreciate confirmation or otherwise that this would make it a day of around 30 km (having difficulty working out coastal distances). Many thanks
 
As this looks to be about half-way between Santander and Boo via the coast then probably 'yes'. It is about 14kms following the direct Camino route from Santander to Boo so 'wandering' round the coast could be about 30kms.
 
Some people have a hard time understanding that there are different kinds of hikes, with different objectives.

On the Frances in 2014, we encountered a Spanish gentleman who had done some of the AT. He hated it. He was apparently looking for more of the albergue-to-albergue or village-to-village experience we find on the Camino, not the several days putting up a tent and eating what you carried before hitting a town to wash, eat some hot food, and sleep in a bed experience that I see in memoir-books about the AT and PCT.

Buen Camino, all!
 
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As this looks to be about half-way between Santander and Boo via the coast then probably 'yes'. It is about 14kms following the direct Camino route from Santander to Boo so 'wandering' round the coast could be about 30kms.
Many thanks for reply (working out the Coastal distances has been tricky for me).
 
Hello Marty
I'll be following this thread with interest as we start from Irun on the 4th May and still deciding whether to branch off on the Primitivo. Will have to assess how the feet/legs are going at that time. Would love to do the CF again but keen to try a different Camino. Cheers Lori
 
My son and I did the Norte as far as the cut off to Oviedo where we picked up the Primativo last summer and thoroughly enjoyed it. It is certainky no through hike but if you're on the camino for religious, spiritual, or cultural reasons it does not disappoint. Some of the cities you pass through do take a bit of time to get in and out of but they are real gems worth visiting. The view coming into San Sebastian comes to mind as a particularly fond memory. I picked the Norte oner the CF based upon many youtube videos which made it look WAY more scenic and MUCH less crowded, and for me the experience did not dissapoint. I wasn't stealth camping so the warm reception I received in the albergues and from my fellow pilgrims was probably the polar opposite of what the German lady experienced. There was a bit more pavement than I might have wished for and some of the midevil rock roads were brutal, but I took that as the price to be paid for what I found to be gorgeous views, amazing cuisine and warm and supportive hospitality. Don't be put off a good route By a negative reaction to misplaced expectations by another Hiker. Buen Camino
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
In reading her blogs, I was wondering what the 'filter' was in her assessment of Norte, and Caminos in general. Almost immediately into my read, it was obvious that her 'filter' is backpacking on wild trails. No biggie at that point; as a PCT thru-hiker, and having thousands of wilderness backpacking miles under my feet, this is not really a disqualifier to providing an objective critique.

For me, this quote sums up the nexus for my evaluation of her evaluation: "Bottom line: If you are a new to hiking the Caminos might be a good and easy way for you to get started. But if you have already hiked other more nature oriented long distance trails you will most probably be very much disappointed with the Caminos."

Bovine poop.

She appears to not be willing to separate Camino walking from wilderness backpacking as unique and different experiences. She judges these two different experiences as one generic activity, using the same set of criteria for both. As such, her critique is worthless in terms of meaning, quality, experience, and guidance as to whether or not to do a Camino. Viewing her concerns from the perspective of my backpacking background, hers are only valid if these issues occur on a wilderness backpacking trip. As a pilgrim, I cannot fathom her attitude and sense of superiority and elitism as a partaker of the "pure" wilderness backpacking experience vs her view of the Camino as being slightly higher in quality than a slum walk.

I can tell you, that is not an attitude that the hardcore backpackers within my sphere of influence hold. They might not choose to go on Camino, but they would never judge it based on wilderness filters.

I'm shaking my head. She just doesn't get it.
 
In reading her blogs, I was wondering what the 'filter' was in her assessment of Norte, and Caminos in general. Almost immediately into my read, it was obvious that her 'filter' is backpacking on wild trails. No biggie at that point; as a PCT thru-hiker, and having thousands of wilderness backpacking miles under my feet, this is not really a disqualifier to providing an objective critique.

For me, this quote sums up the nexus for my evaluation of her evaluation: "Bottom line: If you are a new to hiking the Caminos might be a good and easy way for you to get started. But if you have already hiked other more nature oriented long distance trails you will most probably be very much disappointed with the Caminos."

Bovine poop.

She appears to not be willing to separate Camino walking from wilderness backpacking as unique and different experiences. She judges these two different experiences as one generic activity, using the same set of criteria for both. As such, her critique is worthless in terms of meaning, quality, experience, and guidance as to whether or not to do a Camino. Viewing her concerns from the perspective of my backpacking background, hers are only valid if these issues occur on a wilderness backpacking trip. As a pilgrim, I cannot fathom her attitude and sense of superiority and elitism as a partaker of the "pure" wilderness backpacking experience vs her view of the Camino as being slightly higher in quality than a slum walk.

I can tell you, that is not an attitude that the hardcore backpackers within my sphere of influence hold. They might not choose to go on Camino, but they would never judge it based on wilderness filters.

I'm shaking my head. She just doesn't get it.

You're called it as it is ,
Well said,
Enjoy your coming Camino
 
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Bit of advise . Look at date 2012 nearly 8 years, camino changes every week and I never ever take advise more than month old
Well, if the part about the high rise buildings and tourism would have been true, it would only have become worse by now. I walked there in the summer of 2017. And yes, there were tourists (90% Spanish) and people on the beaches. But she makes it sound like Brighton, Salou or Torremolinos.
 
I start the Norte from Bilbao on 13 May. I hope that is a good omen.
I am sure you are aware that the European Rugby Cup Final is being played at Athletico Bilbao football Stadiuum on the 12 May. The City and surrounding area and Towns will be heaving that weekend
 
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Yikes...that scares me a bit. I plan on taking a lot of coastal alternatives, if I can figure it out.

What are you worried about from a post 6 years ago when there are 100's of worthy comments within this forum on your proposed walk.
 
Well, if the part about the high rise buildings and tourism would have been true, it would only have become worse by now. I walked there in the summer of 2017. And yes, there were tourists (90% Spanish) and people on the beaches. But she makes it sound like Brighton, Salou or Torremolinos.
Luka, I'd love to hear more about your summer Camino on the Norte. Did you have enough pilgrims to walk/socialize with? Any problems finding beds?
 
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