Walking the Primitivo October 9th. Nervous!

[CatPhillips]

I didn't think I'd be this nervous! I walked the CF last year from SJPdP (part with my partner, part with new Camino friends); I finished in June. And I have been obsessing about going back ever since. So today I bought my plane ticket and I'll be starting the Camino Primitivo on the 9th or 10th of October finishing October 27th. I'm walking solo. I'm excited and nervous!

So, I have a couple of questions.

I'm flying into Paris. I know, it's not ideal, but it was cheaper and there's a direct flight from Chicago. I know I'm a ways away but I don't mind taking a train to Spain. Any advice on that? I prefer trains to planes but I'm open to all suggestions. How should I get to Oviedo?

I have about three weeks, so where should I start? Or should I start in Oviedo and then walk to Finnisterre after Santiago?

I'm assuming it could be cold and rainy but is there any chance that it will be hot? Should I bring shorts?

I'm looking forward to the solitude but wondering if I'll be lonely. The CF community was wonderful (but a little much sometimes). Any advice on how different it will be?

Anyone else starting about then?

Time to start some serious research! I'm so excited and still a little in shock. I'm leaving in a month. Yikes!

Catherine

 

[Nick MJ]

I walked the Primitivo last year in April/May and I flew into Asturias so I'm not going to be any help on train travel or weather. But I can assure you that three weeks will be adequate to start in Oviedo and then finish in Finisterre. I took three weeks and there was a nice combination of shorter and longer stages but nothing too strenuous. Even the Hospitales stage, of which much has been written, was fine, taken slowly and with plentiful breaks for drinks and snacks.

In terms of company, my experience was that it was, of course, much much quieter than the CF. However one always saw some pilgrims during the day and there was usually a good sized group in the evening. In fact, joining the CF in Melide came as a bit of a shock - all that peace and quiet suddenly disappeared in a host of pilgrims.

It's a beautiful Camino and I wish you well on your walk.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Catherine,
The Primitivo has become very popular, so I think you will have plenty of company. I walked in October about ten years ago and I was never alone in the albergues and had companionship if I wanted it while walking. And the numbers have increased tremendously!

If you are looking for a way to spend some more time walking, you could start in Leon and walk the 4 or 5 days it would take you to walk the Camino del Salvador from León into Oviedo. One of the most gorgeous Caminos you will every experience, especially in the middle, and especially if the weather cooperates! That route is likely to be pretty quiet in October, though. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[MarieLauFlorin]

I was there in May-June this year. A marvelous route - extremely beautiful and peaceful. I think May and October are very much alike on the camino when it comes to weather and traffic. So for sure bring shorts. But also blankets - I did not sleep at a single albergue with blankets. In May-June this year we were about 25 pilgrims on the route. Enough to have a real camino family and yet No problems with crowds at all. I met people who made it in 16 days, I made it in 11, and I met a girl who made it in nine days. She was almost running. So with three weeks available, I think you'll be in perfect time to end i Finisterre. Oviedo is by far the best place to start - from Oviedo to Lugo is in my opinion the most interesting part of Camino Primitivo because of the hills. Make sure to stop i Bodenaya at David's albergue. If you have Google translate, feel free to see my short guide here: https://caminoenkalder.dk/maries-tips-camino-primitivo/

 

[Kiwi-family]

I definitely second Laurie's suggestion to walk the Salvador from Leon to Oviedo - and if you run out of time to get to Finisterre, never mind, the Salvador is far more spectacular.
We took an overnight bus from Paris to Leon so that is an option. For trains, check www.seat61.com or www.rome2rio.com
In my experience busses are much cheaper, but slower. What matters more to you?

 

[Pilgy]

I didn't think I'd be this nervous! I walked the CF last year from SJPdP (part with my partner, part with new Camino friends); I finished in June. And I have been obsessing about going back ever since. So today I bought my plane ticket and I'll be starting the Camino Primitivo on the 9th or 10th of October finishing October 27th. I'm walking solo. I'm excited and nervous!

So, I have a couple of questions.

I'm flying into Paris. I know, it's not ideal, but it was cheaper and there's a direct flight from Chicago. I know I'm a ways away but I don't mind taking a train to Spain. Any advice on that? I prefer trains to planes but I'm open to all suggestions. How should I get to Oviedo?

I have about three weeks, so where should I start? Or should I start in Oviedo and then walk to Finnisterre after Santiago?

I'm assuming it could be cold and rainy but is there any chance that it will be hot? Should I bring shorts?

I'm looking forward to the solitude but wondering if I'll be lonely. The CF community was wonderful (but a little much sometimes). Any advice on how different it will be?

Anyone else starting about then?

Time to start some serious research! I'm so excited and still a little in shock. I'm leaving in a month. Yikes!

Catherine

Catherine. I work with a colleague who is walking the Primitivo first with her daughter and then solo. It sounds as though Linda (Canadian) will be there walking at the same time as you!

 

[alaskadiver]

We walked in May and sweated our butts off. It was an unusually warm winter. But now I'm reading that it's an unusually cooler fall. So just check the 10 day forecast before you leave and make your decision based on that. The only public albergue we stayed at was in Escamplero. The rest were private ones, plus a few pensiones, the Palacio de Meras hotel, and the "hotel" in one other place that I can't remember now. The private albergues and pensiones all had thick blankets which we of course didn't use.
My husband and I walked alone most of the time (until we met up with our friend in Lugo) which was our preference and it just worked out that way. Plenty of people on the trail but not overcrowded until the last 2 days when we joined the Frances.

Make sure to take a puffy and rain jacket. If the wind is blowing over the Hospitales it will be very chilly.

 

[irishgurrrl]

I hiked it at the very end of April/ start of May and it was unusually cold at the start and then warmed up to more pleasant temperatures (Two weeks later people were scorched out of it!). Basically you could get a mix of weather I suspect. As suggested accuweather does long range forecasts which are handy... Worth checking a week or two before you leave.... I suggest you pack layers including warmer layers etc so you don't get caught out if the weather turns chilly. Also consider bringing a sleeping bag if you intend to sleep in albergues.

Travel wise it'd take you another 20 to 24 hours by rail/ bus realistically if travelling from Paris .... There are direct flights from Paris (CdeG) to Asturias Airport though.... Might be worth considering... www.skyscanner.ie is handy for finding the cheapest flights.

Enjoy! It's a beautiful Camino

 

[Priscilla NC]

You go, Girl! So excited for you.

Buen Camino from one of your 2016 walking partners!

 

[Lougrise]

Hi Catherine,
I will start my camino on a similar route on October 12th. So who knows, maybe we will meet along the way?
I got inspired now to do del Salvador before Primitivo, starting in Léon or maybe La Robla, instead of Oviedo. I have 13 walking days and it's not essential for me to reach Santiago. Looking forward to mountains and have my fingers crossed for significantly less asphalt than Portuguese!
@MarieLauFlorin now that you are here, thanks for your great guide to Primitivo. It encouraged me to buy my plane tickets yesterday
Also happy to hear that there should be a few people around!

An additional question. Can I expect the refugios to be heated? Wondering what kind of sleeping bag I need to bring along.

Buen camino!

 

[CatPhillips]

You go, Girl! So excited for you.

Buen Camino from one of your 2016 walking partners!

Hi Priscilla! Wish you were joining me. Maybe I'll come down for a hike in N.C. one of these days. There are no hills in Ohio to get me in shape!

It looks like Marijke is having a great walk to Finnisterre right now. Brings back memories!

Hugs, C.

 

[CatPhillips]

I

Hi, Catherine,
The Primitivo has become very popular, so I think you will have plenty of company. I walked in October about ten years ago and I was never alone in the albergues and had companionship if I wanted it while walking. And the numbers have increased tremendously!

If you are looking for a way to spend some more time walking, you could start in Leon and walk the 4 or 5 days it would take you to walk the Camino del Salvador from León into Oviedo. One of the most gorgeous Caminos you will every experience, especially in the middle, and especially if the weather cooperates! That route is likely to be pretty quiet in October, though. Buen camino, Laurie

The Camino del Salvador sounds perfect. Thanks for the advice.

 

[CatPhillips]

I definitely second Laurie's suggestion to walk the Salvador from Leon to Oviedo - and if you run out of time to get to Finisterre, never mind, the Salvador is far more spectacular.
We took an overnight bus from Paris to Leon so that is an option. For trains, check www.seat61.com or www.rome2rio.com
In my experience busses are much cheaper, but slower. What matters more to you?

Thanks for the travel advice. I forgot about seat61. Very helpful. I'll check into the overnight bus, but I do like trains. I also like cheap, so we'll see. Thanks!

 

[CatPhillips]

Catherine. I work with a colleague who is walking the Primitivo first with her daughter and then solo. It sounds as though Linda (Canadian) will be there walking at the same time as you!

I'll keep my eyes open for Laura and her daughter. Thanks!

 

[CatPhillips]

We walked in May and sweated our butts off. It was an unusually warm winter. But now I'm reading that it's an unusually cooler fall. So just check the 10 day forecast before you leave and make your decision based on that. The only public albergue we stayed at was in Escamplero. The rest were private ones, plus a few pensiones, the Palacio de Meras hotel, and the "hotel" in one other place that I can't remember now. The private albergues and pensiones all had thick blankets which we of course didn't use.
My husband and I walked alone most of the time (until we met up with our friend in Lugo) which was our preference and it just worked out that way. Plenty of people on the trail but not overcrowded until the last 2 days when we joined the Frances.

Make sure to take a puffy and rain jacket. If the wind is blowing over the Hospitales it will be very chilly.

Good point! I can check the weather before I leave. But I'll be prepared. I walked the CF from end of April to beginning of June and had every kind of weather. Thanks!

 

[CatPhillips]

I hiked it at the very end of April/ start of May and it was unusually cold at the start and then warmed up to more pleasant temperatures (Two weeks later people were scorched out of it!). Basically you could get a mix of weather I suspect. As suggested accuweather does long range forecasts which are handy... Worth checking a week or two before you leave.... I suggest you pack layers including warmer layers etc so you don't get caught out if the weather turns chilly. Also consider bringing a sleeping bag if you intend to sleep in albergues.

Travel wise it'd take you another 20 to 24 hours by rail/ bus realistically if travelling from Paris .... There are direct flights from Paris (CdeG) to Asturias Airport though.... Might be worth considering... www.skyscanner.ie is handy for finding the cheapest flights.

Enjoy! It's a beautiful Camino

Thanks for the link. Flying is an option (even though I hate flying). I'll check it out.

 

[MarieLauFlorin]

Hi Catherine,
I will start my camino on a similar route on October 12th. So who knows, maybe we will meet along the way?
I got inspired now to do del Salvador before Primitivo, starting in Léon or maybe La Robla, instead of Oviedo. I have 13 walking days and it's not essential for me to reach Santiago. Looking forward to mountains and have my fingers crossed for significantly less asphalt than Portuguese!
@MarieLauFlorin now that you are here, thanks for your great guide to Primitivo. It encouraged me to buy my plane tickets yesterday
Also happy to hear that there should be a few people around!

An additional question. Can I expect the refugios to be heated? Wondering what kind of sleeping bag I need to bring along.

Buen camino!

I brought no sleeping bag and no blanket but in Lugo I gave up and bought a large fleece blanket. I found no heated albergues and even in May-June the nights are quite cold. Same in October last year on Inglés... Glad you could use my guide. I have written quite a Lot on the camino on that site. There is a guide about the spiritual part of packing https://caminoenkalder.dk/pakke-min-rygsaek-set-bakspejlet/, a guide about walking alone as a woman https://caminoenkalder.dk/trygt-nok-gaa-caminoen-alene-som-kvinde/ and a guide to camino inglés https://caminoenkalder.dk/camino-ingles-maries-fodspor/ Best regards Marie

 

[alaskadiver]

I brought no sleeping bag and no blanket but in Lugo I gave up and bought a large fleece blanket. I found no heated albergues and even in May-June the nights are quite cold. Same in October last year on Inglés... Glad you could use my guide. I have written quite a Lot on the camino on that site. There is a guide about the spiritual part of packing https://caminoenkalder.dk/pakke-min-rygsaek-set-bakspejlet/, a guide about walking alone as a woman https://caminoenkalder.dk/trygt-nok-gaa-caminoen-alene-som-kvinde/ and a guide to camino inglés https://caminoenkalder.dk/camino-ingles-maries-fodspor/ Best regards Marie

That's really weird. I walked in May and all the albergues all had heat. Nobody was complaining of being cold. It was so darn hot outside! We kept the windows open everywhere. I tend to get cold easy and I had a 50F degree bag and only used it open just to feel like I had a sheet on me. Just shows that this is one of those things that is hard to get advice for since everyone is so different.

 

[Lougrise]

I brought no sleeping bag and no blanket but in Lugo I gave up and bought a large fleece blanket. I found no heated albergues and even in May-June the nights are quite cold. Same in October last year on Inglés... Glad you could use my guide. I have written quite a Lot on the camino on that site. There is a guide about the spiritual part of packing https://caminoenkalder.dk/pakke-min-rygsaek-set-bakspejlet/, a guide about walking alone as a woman https://caminoenkalder.dk/trygt-nok-gaa-caminoen-alene-som-kvinde/ and a guide to camino inglés https://caminoenkalder.dk/camino-ingles-maries-fodspor/ Best regards Marie

Again, great pieces of writing. Thank you for that. I am myself no longer so nervous about going on hiking adventures, but I do remember the feeling before my first camino that became the beginning of all of this walking Im sure articles like this, that adress these "small" issues that one can worry about, bring a camino closer to many people. And for me it's still interesting to hear about your reflections, being in a similar situation. In general I'm excited about how there seems to be loads of interesting blogs posted on this forum!

Louise

 

[MarieLauFlorin]

I


The Camino del Salvador sounds perfect. Thanks for the advice.

I am beginning to Dream about this Salvador, too! Does anyone know good blogs for it?

 

[peregrina2000]

I am beginning to Dream about this Salvador, too! Does anyone know good blogs for it?

Check out Maggie's blog, she walked it last year. Salvador starts around day 17. https://magwood.me/my-caminos/caminos-de-madrid-salvador-primitivo-fistera-2017/

I also had a blog (not nearly as nice as Maggie's) when I walked in 2011 and 2016. You can find the links in the lines below this post. Salvador is an amazing camino, no doubt about it.

 

[Lougrise]

I am beginning to Dream about this Salvador, too! Does anyone know good blogs for it?

I liked this one, great photos http://nadinewalks.com/2017/01/09/i...ms-an-overview-of-the-camino-de-san-salvador/

 

[CatPhillips]

Update on my plans: I've decided to fly from Paris to Oviedo;walk from Oviedo to Santiago on the primitivo; then take a train back to Leon; walk to Oviedo on the Camino del Salvador. Then I fly back to Paris from Oviedo. I have some flexibility so I can change my plan if need be. Thanks for all the suggestions! Very helpful!

 

[alaskadiver]

Update on my plans: I've decided to fly from Paris to Oviedo;walk from Oviedo to Santiago on the primitivo; then take a train back to Leon; walk to Oviedo on the Camino del Salvador. Then I fly back to Paris from Oviedo. I have some flexibility so I can change my plan if need be. Thanks for all the suggestions! Very helpful!

I wish I was going back with you Buen Camino and hope you have lots of fun. It's a great hike.

 

[Beeman]

I didn't think I'd be this nervous! I walked the CF last year from SJPdP (part with my partner, part with new Camino friends); I finished in June. And I have been obsessing about going back ever since. So today I bought my plane ticket and I'll be starting the Camino Primitivo on the 9th or 10th of October finishing October 27th. I'm walking solo. I'm excited and nervous!

So, I have a couple of questions.

I'm flying into Paris. I know, it's not ideal, but it was cheaper and there's a direct flight from Chicago. I know I'm a ways away but I don't mind taking a train to Spain. Any advice on that? I prefer trains to planes but I'm open to all suggestions. How should I get to Oviedo?

I have about three weeks, so where should I start? Or should I start in Oviedo and then walk to Finnisterre after Santiago?

I'm assuming it could be cold and rainy but is there any chance that it will be hot? Should I bring shorts?

I'm looking forward to the solitude but wondering if I'll be lonely. The CF community was wonderful (but a little much sometimes). Any advice on how different it will be?

Anyone else starting about then?

Time to start some serious research! I'm so excited and still a little in shock. I'm leaving in a month. Yikes!

Catherine

Walked primitivo

I didn't think I'd be this nervous! I walked the CF last year from SJPdP (part with my partner, part with new Camino friends); I finished in June. And I have been obsessing about going back ever since. So today I bought my plane ticket and I'll be starting the Camino Primitivo on the 9th or 10th of October finishing October 27th. I'm walking solo. I'm excited and nervous!

So, I have a couple of questions.

I'm flying into Paris. I know, it's not ideal, but it was cheaper and there's a direct flight from Chicago. I know I'm a ways away but I don't mind taking a train to Spain. Any advice on that? I prefer trains to planes but I'm open to all suggestions. How should I get to Oviedo?

I have about three weeks, so where should I start? Or should I start in Oviedo and then walk to Finnisterre after Santiago?

I'm assuming it could be cold and rainy but is there any chance that it will be hot? Should I bring shorts?

I'm looking forward to the solitude but wondering if I'll be lonely. The CF community was wonderful (but a little much sometimes). Any advice on how different it will be?

Anyone else starting about then?

Time to start some serious research! I'm so excited and still a little in shock. I'm leaving in a month. Yikes!

Catherine

Walked primitivo in september,and was cool and drizzly almost every day. Albergue had blankets. Went from luego to friol and lavacola ,found this alternative wonderful,arrived in Santiago by a different,well-marked route from the Francis. Went to Murcia and stayed there for three days. Camino had some ups and downs,but was very doable for a 73 year old man. Would recommend going through friol,as the way was very pretty,well-marked,and dry.