Walking the Valcarlos route

[Gerard Crawshaw]

Is anyone familiar with walking the road route between St Jean PdP and Roncesvalles? Is it safe or are you constantly dodging traffic? In other words, on the sections which are on the road, do you actually walk on the road itself or along a verge?
Gerard

 

[mspath]

I have walked this route 11 times in the past years. Mainly along the left-side verge is the way one walks. Traffic passes but not much. Logging and food trucks as well as vans filled with backpacks are the most prevalent traffic. Do be aware that there are neither services nor potable water from Valcarlos until Roncesvalles monastery.

 

[Gerard Crawshaw]

Many thanks. I think I will take that route. Starting from St Jean morning of 25 April.
Gerard

 

[OTH86]

i walked this route in the Fall of 2014, and the first day was wonderful!! Beautiful scenery! The 2nd day was tough -- mostly because I hadn't had a good protein and carb breakfast, and didn't take enough snacks! So be sure not to start out until you've made arrangements to get plenty to eat and take food and water along!

Regarding the walking - again the first day was great -- mostly back roads with little traffic. Second day -- a bit more along the highway, but not too bad, and several places off-highway - up & up thru the trees - very nice -- just wish I'd had proper food along!! But next time, I WILL be more prepared!!
Buen Camino!!
Terry

 

[LindaH]

Many thanks. I think I will take that route. Starting from St Jean morning of 25 April.
Gerard

Hi Gerard, I am planning to follow this route on 3 May so a little behind you. If you are able to post along the way, I'd love to hear how you are finding it. My companion and I are flying in from Australia the day before and I'm thinking Valcarlos will be far enough for the first day after umpteen hours travelling. (We are reasonably fit, but over sixties, if that makes a difference.). Would love your opinion while fresh in your mind!! If anyone else has any comments on this plan please fire away.
Many thanks, Linda

 

[Lachance]

I walked this route 2 days ago as the Napoleon was closed. Leaving St Jean, there's a short section (<1 kilometre) on D933, which is the main road going south. Around 10 on a Mon morning there was constant light traffic, but plenty of room on the verge and felt completely safe. After that, it was all on small back roads through pretty open countryside, hardly any traffic.

From Valcarlos to Roncesvalles, there are several sections on N135 (the continuation of D933 into Spain). This road winds upwards through the wooded mountains and there was very little verge on some tight curves. Walking on the left, you have the mountainside falling away beside you. Morning traffic as on D933, quite a lot of heavy trucks. The only slightly unnerving moments were a few times when 2 vehicles passed next to me on a tight corner. When saw this about to happen, I stopped and stood as far back as possible and felt quite safe.

It felt as though most of the V to R stage was offroad, but TBH, I preferred walking on N135. Pleasant scenery and constant ascent at a comfortable gradient. Whereas the first 2 Camino diversions took you down to the valley floor and back up again, much more steeply than N135. The 2nd was by far the longest and seemed to go up and up and up forever. I was quite glad to have missed the Napoleon as it's rated more difficult on Gronze.

So far, I have found Spanish drivers very considerate. If there's no oncoming traffic, they will always veer over to the other side of the road when passing you.
Buen camino
Deb

 

[Lachance]

Hi Gerard, I am planning to follow this route on 3 May so a little behind you. If you are able to post along the way, I'd love to hear how you are finding it. My companion and I are flying in from Australia the day before and I'm thinking Valcarlos will be far enough for the first day after umpteen hours travelling. (We are reasonably fit, but over sixties, if that makes a difference.). Would love your opinion while fresh in your mind!! If anyone else has any comments on this plan please fire away.
Many thanks, Linda

I'd say definitely stop at Varcarlos. Was glad I did. I'm reasonably fit 66 and spent time elsewhere in Spain before starting, but found Valcarlos to Roncesvalles quite challenging enough by itself.

 

[Thornley]

Is anyone familiar with walking the road route between St Jean PdP and Roncesvalles? Is it safe or are you constantly dodging traffic? In other words, on the sections which are on the road, do you actually walk on the road itself or along a verge?
Gerard

Stop in Valcarlos
Great accommodation if not into alberques and you want a good sleep
See if you can walk the second stage into Ronscavalles on a Sunday , no traffic.
When we say cars approaching we stopped and they moved to the middle.
Taxis everywhere taking packs as well as pilgrims.
I agree with the my Sydney friend, stay away from the forrest floor on the second stage . Its beautiful but demanding.
Enter the forrest @ the water fountain.
Burguete has varying degrees of accommodation and is only 3 km past Ronsc.

 

[LindaH]

Stop in Valcarlos
Great accommodation if not into alberques and you want a good sleep
See if you can walk the second stage into Ronscavalles on a Sunday , no traffic.
When we say cars approaching we stopped and they moved to the middle.
Taxis everywhere taking packs as well as pilgrims.
I agree with the my Sydney friend, stay away from the forrest floor on the second stage . Its beautiful but demanding.
Enter the forrest @ the water fountain.
Burguete has varying degrees of accommodation and is only 3 km past Ronsc.

Hi Thornley, thanks for this information - sounds like Valcarlos should be ideal for us! Not sure if I completely understand your point about the forest . Are you suggesting we stay out of it altogether, or we avoid it until we get to the water fountain? If the latter, do you have any idea how far out of Valcarlos that would be? Also does staying on the road increase the distance, even though easier?
I was thinking we could perhaps walk from Valcarlos to Espinal on the second day with a break in Ronscevalles on the way. Does that seem doable?
Many thanks, Linda. (Just found the emoticons!)

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Hello LindaH, I walked from SJPdP to Valcarlos end of March last year. I am 66, not used to long walks but this was an easy intro. The Valcarlos albergue is excellent and the village has grocery stores (and restaurants) so you can stock up with enegy providing snacks before walking to Espinal. the walk through the forest was very pleasant, it might be muddier this year as the weather has been wetter, but ask for advice at the Pilgrim Office in SJPdP before you leave. They will, in any case, also provide you with an illustrated map for that particular section that I found extremely helpful. What some people forget is that while the Valcarlos route is easier that the napoleon route, it still crosses the pyrenees, albeit at a lower altitude, so on the stretch climbing out of the forest before you reach Ibaneta, expect to make much slower progress than on the rest of the journey. Roncesvalles is a good place to stop, and from there it is an easy and mainly level walk to Espinal. Buen Camino.

 

[Thornley]

Hi Thornley, thanks for this information - sounds like Valcarlos should be ideal for us! Not sure if I completely understand your point about the forest . Are you suggesting we stay out of it altogether, or we avoid it until we get to the water fountain? If the latter, do you have any idea how far out of Valcarlos that would be? Also does staying on the road increase the distance, even though easier?
I was thinking we could perhaps walk from Valcarlos to Espinal on the second day with a break in Ronscevalles on the way. Does that seem doable?
Many thanks, Linda. (Just found the emoticons!)

SEB is right in all he said Linda.
When you disappear to the forest floor you eventually come back to the road. You will not miss the fountain , closer to Ron than Valc.
I suggested Burguette because its either Zubiri or Larr [ i won't spell it because i don't like it] or our good hotel 1 km further @ Akerreta.

Then again the hostel and Carmen's are both highly regarded in Spinal.
Take you time early mate and if the weather is fowl Burette.
On 10/7 last year the temp was high 30c , and we took 4.75 hours to Burguette stoping for drink ar Ronsc.
Its all uphill Lin.

 

[QuailHiker]

Many thanks. I think I will take that route. Starting from St Jean morning of 25 April.
Gerard

Gerard:

I'm leaving the same day from SJPP -- hope to see you!

Fred

 

[Felipe]

I have walked both -the Napoleon and the Valcarlos route. The latter is much more easier.
Valcarlos/Luzaide (it is called both ways, depending on the language) is a traditional and friendly Basque village, with a minimarket and restaurants. You can shop also a mile before Arneguy, in the former frontier crossing, where there are big (and strangely incongruous in a rural environment) supermarkets.
The albergue has 24 places -so, as the other route will be closed from November to March, there could be a high demand. Reservation is possible, apparently (when I was there, it was a scarcely transited route).
There is no hospitalero. If the door is closed, ask for the digital code in the city hall, or in Benta Ardandegia (that's the minimarket/bar/social centre). It is a little village along the road, you can't get lost.
As I remember it, the hostals were rather expensive (it is a touristic place, in summer). On the other side, Basque gastronomy is quite remarkable (solid farm stuff, not this "nouvelle cuisine" thing!)
One of the funny thing along the Valcarlos route is that you cross the border three times. If you are used to long lines, showing passports, etc., it feels quite pleasant.

 

[LindaH]

SEB is right in all he said Linda.
When you disappear to the forest floor you eventually come back to the road. You will not miss the fountain , closer to Ron than Valc.
I suggested Burguette because its either Zubiri or Larr [ i won't spell it because i don't like it] or our good hotel 1 km further @ Akerreta.

Then again the hostel and Carmen's are both highly regarded in Spinal.
Take you time early mate and if the weather is fowl Burette.
On 10/7 last year the temp was high 30c , and we took 4.75 hours to Burguette stoping for drink ar Ronsc.
Its all uphill Lin.

Got you now Thornley, and thanks again for all the info. Just over two weeks till we leave, so it might be a mud bath rather than 30 C for us .
Starting to feel a combination of nervous and excited. Got to stop buying gear! Won't be able to carry it all, but planning and shopping are part of the fun ?

I have walked both -the Napoleon and the Valcarlos route. The latter is much more easier.
Valcarlos/Luzaide (it is called both ways, depending on the language) is a traditional and friendly Basque village, with a minimarket and restaurants. You can shop also a mile before Arneguy, in the former frontier crossing, where there are big (and strangely incongruous in a rural environment) supermarkets.
The albergue has 24 places -so, as the other route will be closed from November to March, there could be a high demand. Reservation is possible, apparently (when I were there, it was a scarcely transited route).
There is no hospitalero. If the door is closed, ask for the digital code in the city hall, or in Benta Ardandegia (that's the minimarket/bar/social centre). It is a little village along the road, you can't get lost.
As I remember it, the hostals were rather expensive (it is a touristic place, in summer). On the other side, Basque gastronomy is quite remarkable (solid farm stuff, not this "nouvelle cuisine" thing!)
One of the funny thing along the Valcarlos route is that you cross the border three times. If you are used to long lines, showing passports, etc., it feels quite pleasant.[/QUOTE

Thanks Felipe, didn't know you could book ahead so will look into how busy they are getting. Gotta love border crossings in Europe! Good to hear the food will be good. Nothing like a long walk and fresh air to build an appetite!

 

[dgassa]

Anyone one stayed in one of the two hotels in Valcarlos? I found an e-mail for one of them but never get a response. Are there other options for overnight in Valcarlos besides the albergue?

 

[mspath]

Yes there are other options besides the municipal albergue.
See the list in www.Gronze.com.
See the list of all tourist accommodation in the Luzaide-Valcarlos web. The food in the Hostal Maitena is good and their rooms look fine. However I have always stayed at the municipal albergue.

 

[Lachance]

I

Anyone one stayed in one of the two hotels in Valcarlos? I found an e-mail for one of them but never get a response. Are there other options for overnight in Valcarlos besides the albergue?

I stayed at Apartamentos de Montaña Mendiola which was very comfortable and spacious. On the walk from St Jean, I lost my new hi-tech walking stick purchased from boutique du pèlerin in St Jean. Left it one of the supermercados in Vendas, the large shopping mall en route. Was nearly at Val before I realised and didn't have the energy to go back. When I arrived at the Apartamentos about an hour later, a beaming lady met me at the door and asked if I had left my walking stick in the supermercado! She brought it back that night. My first Camino miracle.

 

[Bala]

Anyone one stayed in one of the two hotels in Valcarlos? I found an e-mail for one of them but never get a response. Are there other options for overnight in Valcarlos besides the albergue?

We stayed at Casa Rural Etxezuria last October. Beautiful place, and the only accomodation open beside the albergue (which was clean, bright and cheerfyl, by the way...). We had also emailed the hotels in town before leaving. No response. And not open when we arrived. My guess is that off season most of the places close. Check with the pilgrim office in SJPP before leaving that morning. As others have said, Valcarlos is a beautiful little town. We had what was probably our best meal on the Camino at the rather unassuming bar/cafe/market in the center of town. On the way out of town, there's a lovely little bar/cafe on the left that was open early enough for a quick tortilla and café con leche. We took the off-road paths as much as possible heading to Roncesvalles. Really lovely! There are some narrow, tricky spots where I was glad to be wearing hiking boots. But the paths are well-defined and well marked. Buen Camino!

 

[alipilgrim]

I saw on FB this morning that the Napolean route will be open tomorrow (said a peregrina currently in SJPdP). But of course everyone should check for themselves at the Pilgrim's Office.

 

[Luther]

Thanks AP! Best news I've heard all day!

 

[jeffnd]

I saw on FB this morning that the Napolean route will be open tomorrow (said a peregrina currently in SJPdP). But of course everyone should check for themselves at the Pilgrim's Office.

Excellent advice. ALWAYS check with the pilgrim's office! And Valcarlos is a great town. Be sure to stock up on snacks and water before setting out!

 

[Deleted member 43985]

I saw on FB this morning that the Napolean route will be open tomorrow (said a peregrina currently in SJPdP). But of course everyone should check for themselves at the Pilgrim's Office.

Pilgrim office told us it was still dangerous on the 11th but on 12th in Roncesvalles we met some from a group of 25 people who walked Napoleon and told us the owner at Orisson had cleared the way for them. They claimed it was a fine walk but came into very strong winds.

 

[Thornley]

Can only second the recommendation on Casa Rural Etxezuria.
Large rooms , lovely property.
We had lunch @ centre cafe , very nice
We had dinner in cafe/bar on way out , also very nice .

We have been over the top but love the Valcarlos route.
Always a bit of humour in the centre cafe amongst villagers and pilgrims.

 

[SimiK]

We stayed at Casa Rural Etxezuria last October. Beautiful place, and the only accomodation open beside the albergue (which was clean, bright and cheerfyl, by the way...). We had also emailed the hotels in town before leaving. No response. And not open when we arrived. My guess is that off season most of the places close. Check with the pilgrim office in SJPP before leaving that morning. As others have said, Valcarlos is a beautiful little town. We had what was probably our best meal on the Camino at the rather unassuming bar/cafe/market in the center of town. On the way out of town, there's a lovely little bar/cafe on the left that was open early enough for a quick tortilla and café con leche. We took the off-road paths as much as possible heading to Roncesvalles. Really lovely! There are some narrow, tricky spots where I was glad to be wearing hiking boots. But the paths are well-defined and well marked. Buen Camino!

I'm staying there, too, in early October. Looks great and I had no problem communicating with Rosa and making a reservation.

 

[Bala]

Lovely place, and got out Camino off to a good start. The walk up from St. Jean is easy and through beautiful French farms. Valcarlos to Roncesvalles is steep, but through woodlands and along streams, really nice, if a bit tricky in places. Walking poles or a good sturdy stick would have been helpful. But I didn't have either and had no problems. Buen Camino!

 

[Buz Radican]

I'm staying there, too, in early October. Looks great and I had no problem communicating with Rosa and making a reservation.

I will be there on the 6th of October.

 

[Bala]

That's almost a year to the day when we arrived. We had great walking weather. Cool, a little overcast, but enough sun. Then fog at the top of the pass made for a mystical experience. Buen Camino!

 

[Buz Radican]

That's almost a year to the day when we arrived. We had great walking weather. Cool, a little overcast, but enough sun. Then fog at the top of the pass made for a mystical experience. Buen Camino!

Thank you. I hope I have the weather you enjoyed. I see that you are also from Pennsylvania. I'm about 10 miles from the Delaware Water Gap.

 

[Bala]

Oh, a beautiful area! I grew up in Scranton and have fond memories of going through the Water Gap to visit cousins in New Jersey. As to the Camino, I'm very partial to Valcarlos, even though I have nothing to compare it to! But they were exhilarating, happy days, just starting out. And as my husband commented recently, "We were so innocent then." . Enjoy, enjoy!

 

[Bala]

Valcarlos, looking back from the bridge on the way out of town.