Search 60,048 Camino Questions

A donation to the forum removes ads for you, and supports Ivar in his work running it


Advertisement

LIVE from the Camino @Wanderlustesq on the Primitivo

wanderlustesq

Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
First day in Oviedo—such a wonderful small city. Quaint and beautiful. Can’t miss the cathedral (even if you’re not Catholic). Had the first of many tortillas and it was delicious! Quick trip to Decathlon for trekking poles. SIM card at the Orange store, and now to eat for the third time (lunch at 4 pm). Tomorrow we start the Primitivo!
 
Peaceable Projects Inc.
Peaceable Projects Inc. is a U.S.-based non-profit group that brings the vast resources of the wide world together with the ongoing needs of the people who live, work, and travel on the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail network in Spain.
Camino Way Markers
Original Camino Way markers made in bronze. Two models, one from Castilla & Leon and the other from Galicia.

wanderlustesq

Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
We left Oviedo on Thursday (2nd de junio) at 7 am. And yes, we and ten others had a difficult time getting started because we could not find the route!

I was surprised on how many people were starting between 7:30 and 8:30. Mostly Spanish men, but we saw dozens and dozens!

As soon as you leave the city it’s a steady uphill climb. I’d say at least 60% of the day was on streets or paved asphalt trail. I was hoping it would be an easy first day, but it wasn’t. Jet lag, having too little sleep the night before, and still not feeling 100% contributed to it being more difficult. But these two 60-year old ladies dug deep and DID IT!

It lightly rained on us, but I was so drenched in sweat there was no need to even use rain gear. I’m from the high desert of western USA and not at all comfortable in these high humidity conditions. The temperature was only 68-72 Fahrenheit, but it was hot! My fear of being cold on this trip has completely disappeared!

I am exceptionally happy I chose to bring all merino wool tops and shorts! It is great for sweaty messes and dries fast! My convertible hiking pants were a great choice too. The lower sections not only are removable, I can unzip the sides without removing them to let my body heat escape. I left the legs on because there were section of the trail that had a lot of vegetation that you might rub up against. Two pair of socks (iniji toe socks in merino wool as base), my Merrell trail runners, and a small coating of Vaseline did my feet well. No signs of hot spots at all. So far, I’m happy with my gear choices!

We are staying at the most incredible albergue/villa in Palitin! Just 5k shy of Grado-where most people stay—it is a picturesque little haven with top notch accommodations. Pablo, the host, is beyond delightful. Many people stop on the way to grab a cold drink, so he is running about caring for everyone. From our bedroom window we saw lots of pilgrims scurrying to make Grado by 5 pm. So glad we left early, took our time, and stopped before the stampede arrived in Grado looking for the first place to sleep. We were having an afternoon siesta by 3 pm!

A really good dinner (I was the only non red meat eater amongst the eight pilgrims) of avocado, tomatoes, apples and other delectable fruits and vegetables was served. The sound of a running creek adjacent to a pasture of cows lulled us to sleep. And the rooster has just started crowing as I am writing this at 5:40!

Breakfast is included, but not served until 8:30, so after our trek into Grado this morning, there will be a tortilla with my name on it!

Buen Camino

Laura
 

wanderlustesq

Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
Well it happened. In day two of the Primitivo. I had a “what the heck was I thinking moment!” The climb from Grado to Cornellana was a bit challenging. But the downhill at the lowest section was even worse.

I may be 60, but never had knee pain. Well I did today! Almost all of the uphill was in asphalt and the decline was gravel or very slippery rocks. YES I did use poles! The spot right before La Rodrigua was exceptionally challenging with a steep downward over slippery protruding rock and mud. This would be the area that would challenge the older or less active individual. The weather was mostly hot and sunny, but a few raindrops we encountered were welcomed.

The biggest win was stopping for a break and rest at Casita de Mandala! An incredibly inviting and special house owned by Patrik Hudák and his lovely wife. A donativo retreat that’s available for rest, a cerveza or agua, and lively conversation with the host (he will even open his second building if you need a cama for the night). Don’t miss stopping here! He is intelligent, educated, and gracious. He has quite a view of “bullshit jobs” too!

After I persevered the last few km, we made it to the incredible Albergue Roca Madre in La Rodriga. Another fantastic find thanks to FB group postings. Diego is such a great host.

Tomorrow is another challenging day that requires a even higher uphill battle. It will be flat for first 12 KM, but the last seven are straight uphill.

Let’s see how that goes!

Buen Camino

Laura
 
Camino Creative Credencial Workshop
A two-part workshop that guides you into creating a credencial and shares it online
Camino Magnets
A collection of Camino Fridge Magnets

wanderlustesq

Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
thanks for your posts-- we are headed there in the beginning of September. Are you booking all of your lodging ahead?
I did. Then cancelled out of fear of not making it to each day’s destination. Then rebooked day to day, but wish I hadn’t. There’s lots of options and Booking.com is jacking the rates for day of reservations. A private room went from 45€ to 134€. The place had many options available. I’m waiting on next days to ask for a bed directly.
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
Oooh...thanks (although now I am worried for next year.)
Buen Camino
I am currently on the Primitivo, 67, average fitness and have just finished the day involving the Hospitales route from Samblissimo to Berduceco.
I was a bit worried about the Primitivo from various forum posts, but have honestly found it sbsolutely doable and not as challenging as the Via Gebennensis for example. I left at 7.30 am today snd got to my destination at 3.30 with a 20 minute break. A lot of the uphill sections so far have quite a gentle gradient and I did not need to stop to catch my breath, as long as I took it slowly.
It is a wonderful route and I have obviously more to walk on it, but so far so good. I might eat my words of course...I plan 16 days to Santiago from Oviedo including 1 rest day in Lugo. Cut a couple of stages in half, as they were too long for my liking.

20220607_091027.jpg
 

EL LECHERO

Friends no Strangers
Past OR future Camino
CF 2016 CP 2022 PORTUGUESE 2023
I did. Then cancelled out of fear of not making it to each day’s destination. Then rebooked day to day, but wish I hadn’t. There’s lots of options and Booking.com is jacking the rates for day of reservations. A private room went from 45€ to 134€. The place had many options available. I’m waiting on next days to ask for a bed directly.
WOW! I can't believe how hi the prices have gone up. I just finished the Primitivo last April and the most I spent on a private room was 44euro. The cheapest was an albeurgue in Borducedo for 5 euro.
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
WOW! I can't believe how hi the prices have gone up. I just finished the Primitivo last April and the most I spent on a private room was 44euro. The cheapest was an albeurgue in Borducedo for 5 euro.
You can still sleep in municipals for 5 Euros and private albergues 12 to 10 Euros. Samblissimo was 24 Euros including dinner and bfast.
Private rooms along the way are quite pricey. 45 to 55 Euros, tonight in Berduceco Euro 30 for private room in Albergue Primitivo.
 
Peaceable Projects Inc.
Peaceable Projects Inc. is a U.S.-based non-profit group that brings the vast resources of the wide world together with the ongoing needs of the people who live, work, and travel on the Camino de Santiago pilgrim trail network in Spain.
John Brierley 2022 Camino Guide
Get your today and start planning.

wanderlustesq

Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
You can still sleep in municipals for 5 Euros and private albergues 12 to 10 Euros. Samblissimo was 24 Euros including dinner and bfast.
Private rooms along the way are quite pricey. 45 to 55 Euros, tonight in Berduceco Euro 30 for private room in Albergue Primitivo.
You seem to be a day behind me. I wish I had done Hospitales because the alternative route was challenging. My Camino family are quite experienced and fast walkers, so I reach the longer destinations later and later.

I stayed at the Albergue Camino Primitivo Monday night, but they had no private rooms I thought. It was the only time I stayed in dormitory room.

The one tonight (Tuesday) is an old hotel in Grandas de Salime for 25€ It is old and very dirty.

It seems to be very busy at the traditional stages the closer you get to Lugo, where a festival will be going on this weekend. It will be a race for those wanting to stay at a less expensive Albergue. Especially if they arrive Friday, Saturday or Sunday.
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
You seem to be a day behind me. I wish I had done Hospitales because the alternative route was challenging. My Camino family are quite experienced and fast walkers, so I reach the longer destinations later and later.

I stayed at the Albergue Camino Primitivo Monday night, but they had no private rooms I thought. It was the only time I stayed in dormitory room.

The one tonight (Tuesday) is an old hotel in Grandas de Salime for 25€ It is old and very dirty.

It seems to be very busy at the traditional stages the closer you get to Lugo, where a festival will be going on this weekend. It will be a race for those wanting to stay at a less expensive Albergue. Especially if they arrive Friday, Saturday or Sunday.
Lots of people are having trouble getting beds. Where are you in Grandas? Sounds miserable. I see, the toughest stage is still ahead of us...
I split first stage in 2, that's why I'm behind you.
 

wanderlustesq

Member
Past OR future Camino
Primitivo
Lots of people are having trouble getting beds. Where are you in Grandas? Sounds miserable. I see, the toughest stage is still ahead of us...
I split first stage in 2, that's why I'm behind you.
Hostal Occidentte. My friend Julia is with your pace. But I’m going to go slower the next few days. My plan was to spend tonight (Wednesday) in A Fonsgrada where I have a room reservation. But I’ll probably taxi part of the way.
 

gittiharre

Veteran Member
Past OR future Camino
CF Austria Czech Le Puy Geneva RLS V. Jacobi V. Regia V. Baltica/Scandinavica Porto Muxia
Hostal Occidentte. My friend Julia is with your pace. But I’m going to go slower the next few days. My plan was to spend tonight (Wednesday) in A Fonsgrada where I have a room reservation. But I’ll probably taxi part of the way.
Yes, I met Julia. She is doing well.
 
Past OR future Camino
Frances (2017), Primitivo (2019)
You can still sleep in municipals for 5 Euros and private albergues 12 to 10 Euros. Samblissimo was 24 Euros including dinner and bfast.
Private rooms along the way are quite pricey. 45 to 55 Euros, tonight in Berduceco Euro 30 for private room in Albergue Primitivo.
Loved Sanblismo. I forget the proprietor’s name, but the facility is very good - dinner and atmosphere also made for a pleasant evening
 
2022 Camino Guides
The 2022 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Pocket guide that pack a punch
1.4 oz (40g) pocket guides with gems of wisdom to ponder during and after your Camino

Did not find what you were looking for? Search here

Popular Resources

“All” Albergues on the Camino Frances in one pdf ivar
  • Featured
“All” Albergues on the Camino Frances in one pdf
4.95 star(s) 105 ratings
Downloads
15,679
Updated
A selection of favorite albergues on the Camino Francés Ton van Tilburg
Favorite Albergues along the Camino Frances
4.83 star(s) 35 ratings
Downloads
8,335
Updated
Profile maps of all 34 stages of the Camino Frances ivar
Profile maps of all 34 stages of the Camino Frances
4.88 star(s) 24 ratings
Downloads
8,001
Updated
Top