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weather on the napoleon

Jim McMurtrie

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances April-May 2018
Frances September-October 2019
We leave fro Madrid tomorrow and should be in SJPdP the on the 11th. Wondering if there is anyone that can give us current walking conditions on the Napoleon route.
 
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Following....
I can report that my friend who started in Pamplona about 10 days ago has walked in driving cold rain everyday. She said there were only a few pilgrims. She's hardcore, so I'm thinking the other pilgrims are hunkered down staying dry. Hoping spring will arrive before I start on the 14th. #praytherainstops
 
We leave fro Madrid tomorrow and should be in SJPdP the on the 11th. Wondering if there is anyone that can give us current walking conditions on the Napoleon route.
Before leaving SJPdP go to the Pilgrimsoffice for info about the weather.

Buen Camino , Peter .
 
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The opening and closing of the route changes with the wind (literally.) Having crossed it in extreme wind, I will hesitate to do it again when "it is strongly not recommended." That day I didn't see much of the beauty I saw in my prior crossing as I was too busy trying to safely walk. It is possible we won't know until the morning we start walking. It's a Camion thing.
 
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Just had a quick google and came across this: https://stjeanpieddeport-roncevaux.jimdo.com/english/
Excellent link, thank you! I’ve never seen this before. It’s the website of the Tourist Office of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port and it’s available in French, English, Spanish and Basque. So finally a website that provides up to date information as well as an up to date recommendation on the SJPP-Roncesvalles paths. Long overdue!
 
You can check the site but they give only a weather forecast and not iff it’s open or not .
The website of the Tourist Office of Saint Jean Pied de Port says this: The way by the Napoleon's Road, between St Jean Pied de Port and Roncesvalles, is officialy open. But it's still strongly not recommanded. We invite you to take the low road, by Arnéguy and Valcarlos.

There is a misconception among many people about the status of the path. During the season from April to October, there is no official mechanism for declaring it open or closed. Only during the winter period, ending on 31 March of each year, the high section, starting at the Spanish border, is regulated by Spanish law, meaning that no pilgrims are allowed to use it and they may be fined if they do. But other than that you have to go by the local recommendation from the SJPP tourist office, from the pilgrim welcome office, or perhaps from your host. And based on the mountain weather forecast but study the details carefully and don't just look at the general icon for the day and don't look at the forecast for the valley (SJPP and Roncesvalles) but at the one for the Col de Bentarte where you will pass by at altitude, such as
http://www.viewweather.com/w1781825-weather-forecast-for-col_de_bentarte-spain_general_.html
https://www.meteoblue.com/en/weather/forecast/week/col-de-bentarte_spain_3128263


Also check the forecast on the evening and on the morning of your departure when the forecast is more reliable than days before that date.
 
I'm sometimes a bit puzzled about the questions about what will the weather be like in two months or in six days :) when it's certain that the person is going there anyway. I guess it's just to make conversation and deal with one's anticipation because nobody can answer that question. I personally watch the long term and short term weather forecasts along the camino for two reasons: a) to decide whether to go to Spain or not as I can decide at very short notice and I won't stay for a month anyway and b) on the evening and morning of that day's walk to decide how to dress and whether to put the rain protection cover on the backpack or not :cool:.
 
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Thanks to all. I have been watching the weather but being a novice I was more interested in how it affects the route. The Valcarlos route it is.
Off to the airport!
 
We leave fro Madrid tomorrow and should be in SJPdP the on the 11th. Wondering if there is anyone that can give us current walking conditions on the Napoleon route.
Today we can't know the weather in mountain on the 11th. When you arrive at SJPP you have to go on the pilgrims office 39 rue de la citadelle, the volunteers will give you all advices for this step, if you can go by Napoleon Route or not
 
Thanks to all. I have been watching the weather but being a novice I was more interested in how it affects the route. The Valcarlos route it is.
Off to the airport!

Last April, in "good" weather and no snow/ice covering the trail, going up the "steep" Pyrenees, from 400 m to 1,500 m, carrying a 15 kg backpack, was not fun as far as I am concerned. Coming down the "steep" hill was also challenging.

If it is snowy, icy, windy, ... I think the safety risk will be quite high!
 
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We leave fro Madrid tomorrow and should be in SJPdP the on the 11th. Wondering if there is anyone that can give us current walking conditions on the Napoleon route.
Walked from SJdPP to Orisson yesterday in lovely weather although some wind. Today walked to Roncesvalles in cold wind , small hail and rain and at one point it was getting misty. I think it can change very quickly so you just need to watch the weather forecast and check with the pilgrim office. Lots of people walked all the way from SJdPP to Roncesvalles today via Orisson and although pretty tired they seemed OK , younger than my 65years though. It is hard walking but bea7t8f7l.
 
Thank you for providing feedback, @Jan Jones, I'm sure those who want to cross in the next few days will appreciate it very much. What's the relatively short part of the trail that is not on the road like at the moment? Soggy, muddy, ok in trainers, needs gaiters, that sort of thing? I guess the old snow is all gone?
 
Thank you for providing feedback, @Jan Jones, I'm sure those who want to cross in the next few days will appreciate it very much. What's the relatively short part of the trail that is not on the road like at the moment? Soggy, muddy, ok in trainers, needs gaiters, that sort of thing? I guess the old snow is all gone?
There was some old snow along the sides but only a few places where you needed to walk through it. A bit of mud in places.

Path from Roncesvalles yesterday 8 April was very muddy , and lots of water running over the path. It rained most of the day and more forecast. Some slippery spots and a wide stream crossing that a few people ended up falling in . I could not have done it safely without poles.
 
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An official warning from the Navarra Bomberos y Bomberas (First Responders), posted on 8 Apr 2018 on Twitter: Wintery conditions are expected during the next few days for the Route Napoleon/Lepoeder pass. If you want to tackle it you must be appropriately prepared and equipped.

 
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I saw a report on a Facebook group today where someone said that they travelled over the Pyrenees today (10 April) but "unfortunately were not warned at Orisson not to go". After about 2 hours up it started to rain, followed by snow and wind speeds over 100km [I'm not quite sure about that number; the forecast was something like wind gusts of up to 60 km/h if I remember correctly]. They say they were blown sideways cold and wet and everyone was concerned and one person got rescued by police as she couldn't go on.

I'm posting this only to emphasise that you should take warnings seriously (see above) and it may be a good idea to check the detailed mountain weather forecast for yourself before starting out.
 
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A Twitter message, dated 11 April 2018, from the Navarra first responders (Bomberos):

As we advised on Sunday ... The conditions on the Route Napoleon are winter conditions. Do not use it!

Today, they had to rescue 8 people!
 
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I saw a report on a Facebook group today where someone said that they travelled over the Pyrenees today (10 April) but "unfortunately were not warned at Orisson not to go". After about 2 hours up it started to rain, followed by snow and wind speeds over 100km [I'm not quite sure about that number; the forecast was something like wind gusts of up to 60 km/h if I remember correctly]. They say they were blown sideways cold and wet and everyone was concerned and one person got rescued by police as she couldn't go on.

I'm posting this only to emphasise that you should take warnings seriously (see above) and it may be a good idea to check the detailed mountain weather forecast for yourself before starting out.
Keep in mind that it is not possible to check detailed weather forecast for one’s self at Orisson as there is no internet access.
 
but "unfortunately were not warned at Orisson not to go".

Is this part of the problem?

Is it the responsibility of staff at Orisson to check weather reports?

Don't expect people to warn you and 'hold your hand' !

Take personal responsibility..........

Check the forecast, ask in the Pilgrim office.

I've just signed up for the @BomberosNavarra tweets. Didn't know about that one.

But I'm regularly checking these weather sites that are frequently shared here.

Best one I've found so far for the 'top of the hill' out from St Jean.
http://fr.viewweather.com/w1781825-previsions-meteo-pour-col_de_bentarte-spain_general_.html


And other more general sites:

https://www.wunderground.com/https://www.yr.no/place/Spain/Navarra/Zubiri/

https://www.yr.no/place/Spain/Navarra/Zubiri/

https://www.accuweather.com/en/es/roncesvalles/306085/current-weather/306085
 
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Part of the problem I think.....

Don't expect people to warn you and 'hold your hand' !

Take personal responsibility..........

Check the forecast, ask in the Pilgrim office.

I've just signed up for the @BomberosNavarra tweets. Didn't know about that one.

But I'm regularly checking these weather sites that are frequently shared here.

Best one I've found so far for the 'top of the hill' out from St Jean.
http://fr.viewweather.com/w1781825-previsions-meteo-pour-col_de_bentarte-spain_general_.html

And other more general sites:

https://www.wunderground.com/https://www.yr.no/place/Spain/Navarra/Zubiri/

https://www.yr.no/place/Spain/Navarra/Zubiri/
Totally agree about taking personal responsibility but it’s not quite that straightforward, Robo. We did all the recommended checking and asking in SJPdP and still got slammed by hurricane force winds when we left from Orisson the next day. The winds were so bad that the Napoleon was actually closed on that day but noone told us and there was no way to find out for ourselves because there is no internet access at Orisson. Plus we were complete newbies.

Where we went wrong was in assuming that we would have been told if it was dangerous and so we kept walking. Took us 10 hours to get to Roncesvalles. What we should have done is turned around and walked back to Orisson after the first few hours of struggling against the wind. Knowing when to bail out really is taking personal responsibility but it’s easy to say this in hindsight and with a lot more experience under my belt.
Trust your instincts and be safe out there, pilgrims.
 
Totally agree about taking personal responsibility but it’s not quite that straightforward, Robo. We did all the recommended checking and asking in SJPdP and still got slammed by hurricane force winds when we left from Orisson the next day. The winds were so bad that the Napoleon was actually closed on that day but noone told us and there was no way to find out for ourselves because there is no internet access at Orisson. Plus we were complete newbies.

Where we went wrong was in assuming that we would have been told if it was dangerous and so we kept walking. Took us 10 hours to get to Roncesvalles. What we should have done is turned around and walked back to Orisson after the first few hours of struggling against the wind. Knowing when to bail out really is taking personal responsibility but it’s easy to say this in hindsight and with a lot more experience under my belt.
Trust your instincts and be safe out there, pilgrims.

Sounds like you tried to do the right thing. Sorry to sound a bit harsh :oops:
(It's easy from the comfort of home)

Knowing when to bail is as you say the key, and once you get to the 'top' which 'way' makes most sense to bail.

Starting to get me thinking about our Plan B in such a situation.....

Was the road still passable up to the Cross (Croix Thibault) ? Might be worth having a St Jean taxi number in the pocket........ And likewise for the far side (Spain) after reaching the road.

I can remember the voice of 'Capt' Albertson, when teaching me to handle a motor boat.
If you lose an engine now, what will you do?
You're close to a lee shore, if the engines cut now, what will you do?


I was always taught when Hiking in bad weather to take a similar approach. A bit like a pilot.

If we bail now, which way will we head? Onwards, turn back?
If the weather gets worse, where will we shelter (those trees 400 m back, that hut up ahead)


But it's good that no one has been hurt.
 
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Goodness.
Since I shall be on my own, I might well just cab it from orisson if weather looking bad.
Thing is that in another thread it says that frisson take you to varcarlos if weather up Napoleon impassable.
 
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Thing is that in another thread it says that Orisson take you to Valcarlos if weather up Napoleon impassable.
They've certainly done that but I wonder whether they do it all the time. After all, they have - what - 28 guests when they are full? They'd need a bus to transport so many people on a regular basis. And the weather is bad on a regular basis. :cool:
 
Personally, I wouldn't even attempt taking the !Napoleon' route in this iffy Spring weather. There is another route! It is the same in all mountains, weather extremely changeable. Even in mid-July, I had blue skies and lovely weather to Orrisson. The following day? Rain,wind and fog!
Also please remember, if the weather is at all bad i.e. it has been (or is) raining, do not take the forest path to Roncesvalles, use the road, which is lovely anyway.
Buen Camino! :)
 
Thanks very much.
I think I'm doing plan B
can I get to varcarlos from orisson? Or do I need a cab or bus?
 
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Can I get to Valcarlos from Orisson? Or do I need a cab or bus?
It's possible but it's not marked as such and I wouldn't attempt it without a proper map and map reading capabilities although it's just country roads. No bus.

But I see from your other messages that you are planning to start in 2 weeks? The weather is most likely completely different to now.

Personally, if I were to do it again and if it's raining I'd start from Roncesvalles or Pamplona. But I've been over the higher pass, so it's easy to say that. I totally understand the lure of the higher route if you've never done it before and heard so many people raving about it.
 
@Lucy Keenan you would have to take a taxi - no buses go up to Orisson. Orisson and Valcarlos are on different routes (from St Jean you go either one way or the other) but there is a road, theoretically, between them. It is narrow and tortuous. In bad weather it is probably better for a taxi to go back down to SJPD and to Valcarlos from there.

I would not be taking the Napoleon before 1 May. And even then I'd be checking the weather. Actually, at this time I'd probably start from Roncesvalles. Ah - just seen Katharina's post. I'm with her.
 
Thank you both.
I have a booking for orisson and do want to get up there.
So if weather not dramatically changed I will cab back to sjpdp the following day and take a bus to Roncesvalles.
 
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Thanks very much.
I think I'm doing plan B
can I get to varcarlos from orisson? Or do I need a cab or bus?
Thank you both.
I have a booking for orisson and do want to get up there.
So if weather not dramatically changed I will cab back to sjpdp the following day and take a bus to Roncesvalles.
Hi Lucy,
I know very well this mountain, it's my country and it's not possible to go from Orisson to Valcarlos walking (there is no markup)you must go down again on SJPP by taxi or Express Bourricot.
 
Hi Lucy,
I know very well this mountain, it's my country and it's not possible to go from Orisson to Valcarlos walking (there is no markup)you must go down again on SJPP by taxi or Express Bourricot.
Hi, Mona,

You're very helpful. I remember in another post some time ago somebody wrote that there is a shortcut on a side road from the Refugee Orisson/SJPdP road to SJPdP/Valcarlos road. This is what Google gives me>
https://www.google.si/maps/dir/Refu...2f10c!2m2!1d-1.3027412!2d43.0918797!3e2?hl=sl

Can you confirm this or it isn't passable because of private property and locked fence doors?

Thank you!
 
Thank you both.
I have a booking for orisson and do want to get up there.
So if weather not dramatically changed I will cab back to sjpdp the following day and take a bus to Roncesvalles.

It's very possible if the weather makes the road impassable that Orisson will be closed. It's also quite possible that if the weather is that bad, the shuttle will NOT be running. So if I were you, I would take everyone's advice and not walk up there. But if you insist, which the 8 headstrong people who were rescued yesterday insisted, then please call ahead to both Orisson and the shuttle to be sure your plan will work. And I hope you have a big bank account, because if you must be rescued, they've taken to billing the rescued person and it's not inexpensive. If I sound frustrated, I am.
 
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Sounds like you tried to do the right thing. Sorry to sound a bit harsh :oops:
(It's easy from the comfort of home)

Knowing when to bail is as you say the key, and once you get to the 'top' which 'way' makes most sense to bail.

Starting to get me thinking about our Plan B in such a situation.....

Was the road still passable up to the Cross (Croix Thibault) ? Might be worth having a St Jean taxi number in the pocket........ And likewise for the far side (Spain) after reaching the road.

I can remember the voice of 'Capt' Albertson, when teaching me to handle a motor boat.
If you lose an engine now, what will you do?
You're close to a lee shore, if the engines cut now, what will you do?


I was always taught when Hiking in bad weather to take a similar approach. A bit like a pilot.

If we bail now, which way will we head? Onwards, turn back?
If the weather gets worse, where will we shelter (those trees 400 m back, that hut up ahead)


But it's good that no one has been hurt.
Sorry Robo, late reply because bit busy here. The road itself was passable the whole way. It was the 100+ km head winds that were making it dangerous. And keep in mind when reading this that what happened to us was the exception rather than the rule. The winds were bad when we started but we only hit the really big winds when the road was more exposed about an hour or so from Orisson. When it got to the point where it was impossible to walk against the wind gusts and people were being blown off their feet we should just have turned around and gone back. Simple and safe. But being newbies and having this idea in our minds that pilgrims do not complain and instead walk on pretty much regardless, that’s what we and most of the other Orisson pilgrims did. Would not happen again and I’m sure you would not make the same mistake. When the going gets really tough there is no shame in turning back.
Also being an Aussie and from the bush, I spent a large part of that walk keeping an eye out for places to hole up for the night and there definitely were options. At the time, I truly didn’t think I would make it to Roncesvalles but I had thermals, sleeping bag, fleece, change of clothes, gloves, hat, good rain gear, etc. It would not have been comfortable but I wasn’t worried about having to spend a night out provided I could find a place that was sheltered.
I know you have all the gear you need and you are sensible. Also that you will never underestimate the mountain and if there is the slightest doubt you will take the Valcarlos route.
Buen camino, amigo.
 
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I'd like to add something to what @HedaP said (and to which I agree and sympathize with) because I feel there is some misconception that unfortunately is also reinforced and spread by other posters. During April-October, there is no official mechanism for opening or closing the Route Napoleon.

In fact, today I read on the FB group of the SJPP pilgrims welcome office that they are the only ones in SJPP, together with the Tourism Office, who provide information to pilgrims about the state of the Route Napoleon and the weather. The Gendarmerie (French police) in Saint Jean does not have any competence, according to their chief, to monitor the path or to prohibit access to the Route Napoleon - and that's throughout the whole year (the law concerning the closure from November-March applies only on the Spanish part).

So don't expect that someone will tell you that the Route Napoleon is closed if you walk now and in the next months. You need to ask actively for advice and follow it.
 
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@Monasp you are such a welcome poster on the forum! It is good to get real information direct from the pilgrims office in St Jean. I also would like an answer to his question - I'll quote it in case you missed it:

Hi, Mona,

You're very helpful. I remember in another post some time ago somebody wrote that there is a shortcut on a side road from the Refugee Orisson/SJPdP road to SJPdP/Valcarlos road. This is what Google gives me>
https://www.google.si/maps/dir/Refuge+Orisson,+Orisson,+64220+Uhart-Cize,+Francija/Valcarlos,+Luzaide/Valcarlos,+Španija/@43.1148113,-1.3049812,13z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0xd50d492f1759f15:0xbf278f6083acf4a3!2m2!1d-1.239412!2d43.1078991!1m5!1m1!1s0xd50d6b371340953:0x8defe6ccd022f10c!2m2!1d-1.3027412!2d43.0918797!3e2?hl=sl

Can you confirm this or it isn't passable because of private property and locked fence doors?

Thank you!
 
It's very possible if the weather makes the road impassable that Orisson will be closed. It's also quite possible that if the weather is that bad, the shuttle will NOT be running. So if I were you, I would take everyone's advice and not walk up there. But if you insist, which the 8 headstrong people who were rescued yesterday insisted, then please call ahead to both Orisson and the shuttle to be sure your plan will work. And I hope you have a big bank account, because if you must be rescued, they've taken to billing the rescued person and it's not inexpensive. If I sound frustrated, I am.
Blimey. Just reread your post. More than bit harsh frankly.
Actually I'm trying to be sensible. I won't go to orisson at all costs. I was saying I wouldnt risk going any further.
You completely missed my intentions.
 
Blimey. Just reread your post. More than bit harsh frankly.
Actually I'm trying to be sensible. I won't go to orisson at all costs. I was saying I wouldnt risk going any further.
You completely missed my intentions.

Sorry about that. :) I didn’t mean to sound ‘harsh.’

I was just frustrated that more than 8 people required rescue over the few days of bad weather because they didn’t listen to the advice of the locals. The walk up to Orisson, though short, has spots off the road that can be dangerous in blizzard type weather and it sounded to me like you were saying you would at least walk that far regardless.

Sometimes it’s difficult to communicate in writing without seeing body language or facial expressions. And sometimes discussion can sound like argument. ;)
 
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Sorry about that. . I was just frustrated that more than 8 people required rescue over the few days of bad weather because they didn’t listen to the advice of the locals. The walk up to Orisson, though short, has spots off the road that can be dangerous in blizzard type weather and it sounded to me like you were saying you would at least walk that far regardless.

Sometimes it’s difficult to communicate in writing without seeing body language or facial expressions.
Yes I know. I'm sorry. I know exactly what you mean. It is so important to respect the elements whether mountain or sea. And thanks very much for the tip about the slots off the road on way to orisson.
 
Lol. I edited that piece about 5 times so as not to sound rude. I grew up in a family of very straightforward speaking Portuguese people. I envy those with the gift of positive phrasing.
 
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