LIVE from the Camino Welcoming pilgrims at Arrés

[J Willhaus]

View attachment 20230611_135105.mp4
Storm blew through with hail. Hope no pilgrims out in it. Phil had just left to clean the medieval tower (sweep, dust).

 

[J Willhaus]

We ended up with only 2 pilgrims. One came backwards from Artieda. She is a French hospitalero volunteer near her home in France. The other was a German pilgrim on his first Camino. He had started in France in Arles.

We had a Caldo Gallego with a salad. I also made a vegan portion and put it in a container in the fridge in case of need another day. Rain all afternoon. No sunset viewing. Phil cleaned tower, too. We got some more wildflowers earlier in the day before the rain. Off to bed early...

 

[J Willhaus]

Our 2 pilgrims are gone. Our hospitalera pilgrim is retired. She does 6 weeks in her albergue rotation rather than 2 like us. She walks a month each year with different routes. Our German pilgrim is in banking. He is on a 7 month sabbatical. He spent time in South Africa, Vietnam and Cambodia and is finishing his last week's with a Camino. He is a first time pilgrim.

We tried to pull up the shower floors to clean underneath, but don't have the correct tools, which tells us it isn't getting done unless there is a plumbing issue. We really need a pry bar or crow bar. I might look for one at the Asian store. In the meantime, I am scrubbing the top mesh and edges where it meets the shower wall with a rubber bristle brush and bleach cleaning product. I hate to leave an albergue issue undone for the next hospitaleros...

We are off to the bank and a little shopping. I have Chilli and Caldo Gallego leftovers so depending on how many tonight we might serve Caldo with the cabbage salad with the crunchy Ramen almond topping and call it good. If there are a lot of pilgrims, we will have the chicken rotelli again.

 

[sunflowers]

Hola
Are you given a daily stipend for food purchases as hospitaleras (hosvol)
Thank you for your updates

 

[Phil W]

Hi @sunflowers.
We use donations to purchase food for our pilgrims. No stipend here. We eat with pilgrims. If we want something other than that, we purchase it ourselves. For lunch we eat leftovers from the evening meal. If there isn't enough, we purchase our own food. Our goal is to serve pilgrims and hope donations are adequate to cover the costs of food, cleaning supplies, utilities, and any repairs or upgrades necessary. So far we seem to be reaching our goal. Pilgrims eat good meals and we have deposited additional funds for the albergue.

Every albergue is a little different. In 1 albergue I received a stipend of 10 euros for myself. As no pilgrim meals were provided, I purchased all my food using the stipend to help defray the cost. But that has not been the norm.

We enjoy serving as hospitaleros and experience the Camino through different eyes everyday. What a joy to sit at the dinner table and hear several different languages as they share their experiences.

 

[J Willhaus]

Hola
Are you given a daily stipend for food purchases as hospitaleras (hosvol)
Thank you for your updates

At this albergue, we use pilgrim donations to buy groceries. Anything we purchase specifically for ourselves, we purchase out of our own pocket. We eat with the pilgrims and usually eat any leftovers (if there are some) for our lunch. Otherwise, for example we separately bought some body soap, potato chips, some tuna, a couple of beers for Phil, and a six pack of tonic for me and my back cramps.

Every albergue is different as they are owned by different cities, churches, and associations. Some require a strict accounting for purchases and donations. Some don't have a strict system and you don't even count the money except to make a deposit. At some we never touch the money and are reimbursed for groceries. At others,, we have no idea how much is given unless someone tells us. At one albergue, Phil was given a daily voucher for 1 meal per day.

In past years we were told that 3 euros per day was the average. Apparently the word is spreading that donativo does not mean free though. We are averaging about 15 euros per person for a bed, supper, breakfast, hot water, hospitality. Some give more, others less, and some have none to give. I have always said, I don't want to know what someone gives, because then everyone is on equal footing. Each person gets the same care and hospitality regardless of ability to pay.

 

[Phil W]

View from the medieval tower and an arrow slit from the inside. Not much field of fire for the archer...

 

[Phil W]

View from the other direction...

 

[J Willhaus]

Flower gathering from today's walk...

 

[J Willhaus]

We ended up with 7 pilgrims 1 from Hungary, 1 from Italy, 5 from Spain. Our first pilgrims arrived with small day packs and asked about their suitcase. I told them we did not accept shipped luggage, but it might be at the Casa Rural. Indeed it was there. It is quite large and Phil had to ask them to remove it from another lower bunk and store it upright instead of open on the floor. In any case, they are a nice couple experiencing the hospitality of this type albergue for the first time.

I upcycled the soup from last night. Added more ham, potatoes, carrots, celery, onion. Garlic and a half of a chopped tomato. Used more white wine and added a container of chicken stock had I made from the freezer. I also made the slaw with the crunchy almond and Ramen topping. Every bite was a gone along with the chocolate and the fig pastries from the local bakery. Its nice to see pilgrims enjoying something simple, but tasty.

Tomorrow no shopping so we may take a little drive after cleaning. The days are slipping away and our replacements will be here on Wednesday to shadow a bit. We may go to spend a night in Sos del Rey Catholic if we get away on Thursday. The car is due back in Pamplona Friday at noon and our train to Madrid leaves at 3 pm.

 

[Vacajoe]

Sos del Rey Catholic is especially magical at night once the tourists leave - stay the night if it is at all possible.

 

[sunflowers]

Having read your posts, I would very much like to stay at Arres Albergue on my Camino next year. I am newly returned, but already planning...sigh...

 

[J Willhaus]

Having read your posts, I would very much like to stay at Arres Albergue on my Camino next year. I am newly returned, but already planning...sigh...

We won't be here, but I am sure some equally accommodating will be!

 

[J Willhaus]

All quiet except the sound of Phil checking mattress and pillows and finishing up his part of the cleaning. Birds chirping in the background. We have a lot of swallows, probably due to the abundant fly population.

It rained quite hard last night again. Partly cloudy and cool this morning so perfect for walking. Our last pilgrim in last night spoke to me earnestly this morning. He came to us from Ena on the Camino Catalon. He saw only 3 pilgrims until he reached us and one he had begun to walk with and consider a friend. This other pilgrim had an injury and considered leaving the Camino so bade Jose-Luis goodbye and they parted ways.

Our pilgrim JL heard from his friend last night. He had continued and was a day and a half behind. JL was considering going back to Santa Cillia and then he and his companion could continue tomorrow to Artieda together. Or he wondered if he should just go on to Ruesta alone. He has no particular timeline. JL is in construction/remodeling and out of work until he goes back home later this summer or fall. I told him whatever decision he made it would likely be the right one for him. I am turning into the Yoda of hospitaleras, like my partner Phil...

One other thing, its about soap. Before we left home, I bought 2 shampoo bars from the place where we get our hair cut. We started using one on a long camping trip in the spring, but since we didn't shower a lot on that trip, we still had 1+ bars left. We have decided we don't really feel clean and my hair is like straw...could be the hard water, but yesterday we bought the 3 bar pack of ubiquitous Spanish soap. (Yellow package, green soap). I will find some regular shampoo in a small bottle somewhere. We will leave 2 soap bars here. I still have a chunk of laundry bar from last year so should be ok for the next 3 weeks was or so till we go home.

Out for a boondoggle this morning to see Berdun and maybe drive to Ruesta and back just to see it.

 

[Kirkie]

All quiet except the sound of Phil checking mattress and pillows and finishing up his part of the cleaning. Birds chirping in the background. We have a lot of swallows, probably due to the abundant fly population.

It rained quite hard last night again. Partly cloudy and cool this morning so perfect for walking. Our last pilgrim in last night spoke to me earnestly this morning. He came to us from Ena on the Camino Catalon. He saw only 3 pilgrims until he reached us and one he had begun to walk with and consider a friend. This other pilgrim had an injury and considered leaving the Camino so bade Jose-Luis goodbye and they parted ways.

Our pilgrim JL heard from his friend last night. He had continued and was a day and a half behind. JL was considering going back to Santa Cillia and then he and his companion could continue tomorrow to Artieda together. Or he wondered if he should just go on to Ruesta alone. He has no particular timeline. JL is in construction/remodeling and out of work until he goes back home later this summer or fall. I told him whatever decision he made it would likely be the right one for him. I am turning into the Yoda of hospitaleras, like my partner Phil...

One other thing, its about soap. Before we left home, I bought 2 shampoo bars from the place where we get our hair cut. We started using one on a long camping trip in the spring, but since we didn't shower a lot on that trip, we still had 1+ bars left. We have decided we don't really feel clean and my hair is like straw...could be the hard water, but yesterday we bought the 3 bar pack of ubiquitous Spanish soap. (Yellow package, green soap). I will find some regular shampoo in a small bottle somewhere. We will leave 2 soap bars here. I still have a chunk of laundry bar from last year so should be ok for the next 3 weeks was or so till we go home.

Out for a boondoggle this morning to see Berdun and maybe drive to Ruesta and back just to see it.

Whatever the dickens a boondoogle is, let me pick up on soap. You won't have much time in Pamplona for many things, Janet and Phil. Such a pity. The pintxos on offer in the old town are worth a fortune!
Eroski. Eroski, one of the supermarkets. Others will also have it.
Jabon chimbo. I promise you - it will become a necessity to have and to hold, and to gift! I made the mistake of checking under the sink and I have enough to gift again this year, pretending I have brought them back. So now, I don't need to look for mare bars!
My friends wait for that, and proper dried parsley, Chiquilini biscuits!
No items that need to be used up by a certain date.
Luggage weight now determines a very limited range of return items.
Chimbo is a brand name, by the way, there are other variations, It is called jabón de toda la vida, by my friends in Pamplona.
Once, a Ugandan friend nearly died of excitement upon seeing a bar of it in our kitchen. It is just wonderful. Of course, at home, I use it only for cleaning clothes - a superb way of dealing with stains of any kind.
On the CF, and subsequently we used it for ourselves and our clothes.
The shower gel I like is Magno. Smells nice. Can't bring it back anymore as I do not put luggage into the hold.
I think I have bored you by now... hope your boondoogle is refreshing!

 

[SantiagoCruzB]

Thanks for all the stories. It was a nice, fun as well as inspiring read. God bless!

 

[J Willhaus]

Bailo- church and also some Moorish windows in an old home. This community is the one thrat owns the albergue in Arres.

Now across the Aragon River to Berdun. Phil at one of the gates to the old walled city on the hilltop, the church and a walled up church door. The view of Arres from Berdun is awesome.

 

[J Willhaus]

Boondoggle is a wasteful or impractical trip/project. In the Army we used the term to describe a trip that really led to nowhere although sometimes we would find some good training areas or a shortcut or a hazard we had been previously unaware of. The dictionary says it is also some kind of braid worn by boy scouts in Britain, too.

Basically it means we just went riding around in the car without any agenda or destination in mind...

 

[peregrina2000]

Your and Phil’s posts (from this year and years past) are, IMHO, the best hospitalero threads around. You describe the routine, the cooking, the pilgrims, the challenges, and just about anything else that we could wonder about. It is always fun to follow your threads. I hope you will also keep us posted about how your “scouting out” camino from Sarria goes.

Buen camino!!!

 

[J Willhaus]

Your and Phil’s posts (from this year and years past) are, IMHO, the best hospitalero threads around. You describe the routine, the cooking, the pilgrims, the challenges, and just about anything else that we could wonder about. It is always fun to follow your threads. I hope you will also keep us posted about how your “scouting out” camino from Sarria goes.

Buen camino!!!

Thanks, if people with to volunteer, I want them to know what it might be like. BTW, I did figure out how to clean the floor drain today and it didn't look terrible as I had envisioned. No way to pull up the floors, but the drain is accessible.

 

[NorthernLight]

I’ve stayed at Arres twice; both times were lovely. The first time, the hospis welcomed help in the kitchen and everyone contributed in some fashion to either food prep or clean up. The second time, the hospis waved us away from helping. The food was simple, plentiful and did the job. I don’t recall them taking anyone into the tower but they did open the church for us and those at the Casa Rural.

You two are hospis extraordinaire! It’s no wonder the dinner food disappears, you offer good food that is not of the common sort found along the way. Feeding the body and the soul.

Thank you for your service.

 

[J Willhaus]

I’ve stayed at Arres twice; both times were lovely. The first time, the hospis welcomed help in the kitchen and everyone contributed in some fashion to either food prep or clean up. The second time, the hospis waved us away from helping. The food was simple, plentiful and did the job. I don’t recall them taking anyone into the tower but they did open the church for us and those at the Casa Rural.

You two are hospis extraordinaire! It’s no wonder the dinner food disappears, you offer good food that is not of the common sort found along the way. Feeding the body and the soul.

Thank you for your service.

The tower thing is newer. There is an exhibit of art and it is kind of like a museum of sorts.

 

[J Willhaus]

Tonight we ended up with 6 pilgrims. Our last arrived just before supper and had walked up to San Juan de la Pena and back today. We have a Spanish grandfather with his two 21 years old granddaughters, a peregrina from Denmark, a young man from France and a young woman who does not speak from France. The young French woman understands both English and Spanish. Phil and I don't know sign language, but as a group we all communicated quite well.

Around the table, everyone said their favorite Camino memory in their own language. Beautiful stories. We had 2 vegetarians so some rotelli with Chicken and some without. Taco salad and cherries for dessert. A tiny bit left for lunch for one if us.

We think our replacement Ray will arrive tomorrow sometime. We will see what he needs. We don't know if he is experienced or has even been here before. We'll stay until he's ready for us to go or until we have to return the rental car, whichever comes first.

 

[J Willhaus]

Albergue clean! Extra washing today as Phil and I prepare for our departure. I washed my bedspread and top sheet and there is a clean towel for our replacement Ray. He sent a WhatsApp that he would be here by car later this afternoon.

We drove into to Jaca for a few personal items (stick deodorant we saw at the Warehouse store, etc) and also picked up some fresh bread, bananas, for the albergue. Stopped and picked some fresh flowers at the roadside.

It is breezy today so things are drying quickly. We saw 6 or so pilgrims on the way back to the albergue so it should be a nice group tonight. One last feast of cabbage slaw with the crunchy nut and Ramen topping, pork apples onions cooked in red wine and cinnamon, and a few fresh cherries with a chocolate pastry for dessert.

Unless Ray needs us to stay we'll head out tomorrow for Sos del Rey Catholico and then to Pamplona on Friday. I will close this thread out after we leave and start a new one for our Camino walk to Santiago.

 

[NorthernLight]

I hope you will give us a report on your visit to Sos del Rey Catholicos before closing out this thread. I could see it off in the distance as I was walking and had considered walking there from Undúes de Lerda, but alas I did not.

 

[Former member 54877]

Dear Janet and Phil,
we have never met and I have never stayed at any of the albergues that you have volunteered at over the years. But from the bottom of my heart I want to especially thank you both as well as the thousands of volunteers who come from all corners of the globe, at their own expense, to serve pilgrims at albergues every year.

They say that the Camino de Santiago is an ancient pilgrimage or a network of roads. But it is really so much more than that. It is people like you who make the Camino special; without you, it is almost just a walking trail to a religious site.

(Forumers, please add your thanks to the Willhaus-s by clicking the praying hands emoji under the 'Like' function.)

 

[UnniElisabeth]

We ended up with 7 pilgrims 1 from Hungary, 1 from Italy, 5 from Spain. Our first pilgrims arrived with small day packs and asked about their suitcase. I told them we did not accept shipped luggage, but it might be at the Casa Rural. Indeed it was there. It is quite large and Phil had to ask them to remove it from another lower bunk and store it upright instead of open on the floor. In any case, they are a nice couple experiencing the hospitality of this type albergue for the first time.

I upcycled the soup from last night. Added more ham, potatoes, carrots, celery, onion. Garlic and a half of a chopped tomato. Used more white wine and added a container of chicken stock had I made from the freezer. I also made the slaw with the crunchy almond and Ramen topping. Every bite was a gone along with the chocolate and the fig pastries from the local bakery. Its nice to see pilgrims enjoying something simple, but tasty.

Tomorrow no shopping so we may take a little drive after cleaning. The days are slipping away and our replacements will be here on Wednesday to shadow a bit. We may go to spend a night in Sos del Rey Catholic if we get away on Thursday. The car is due back in Pamplona Friday at noon and our train to Madrid leaves at 3 pm.

Thank you so much for

Albergue clean! Extra washing today as Phil and I prepare for our departure. I washed my bedspread and top sheet and there is a clean towel for our replacement Ray. He sent a WhatsApp that he would be here by car later this afternoon.

We drove into to Jaca for a few personal items (stick deodorant we saw at the Warehouse store, etc) and also picked up some fresh bread, bananas, for the albergue. Stopped and picked some fresh flowers at the roadside.

It is breezy today so things are drying quickly. We saw 6 or so pilgrims on the way back to the albergue so it should be a nice group tonight. One last feast of cabbage slaw with the crunchy nut and Ramen topping, pork apples onions cooked in red wine and cinnamon, and a few fresh cherries with a chocolate pastry for dessert.

Unless Ray needs us to stay we'll head out tomorrow for Sos del Rey Catholico and then to Pamplona on Friday. I will close this thread out after we leave and start a new one for our Camino walk to Santiago.

Thank you for the wonderful work you do for us pilgrims, I wish you son good resting days at the Camino. Hope to be in Arres early next week.

 

[J Willhaus]

Rai, arrived. He has not been here before, but he has volunteered at Ponferrada which is much busier. He didn't have to cook there, but feels prepared to cook here. He will get up early with me and we'll do breakfast together. He went with Phil on the various activities. He's one person doing the work of 2. He will do fine though. We'll help him out in the morning and then hand over the keys.

7 pilgrims tonight. One Italian, 1 Slovenian, 5 French. Supper went well. A small amount of leftovers for Rai's lunch. He helped me prepare what he told me he thought was a weird dinner although admitted it was good and watched pilgrims take seconds. We wish him the best.

 

[MaryLynn]

I have enjoyed reading your posts from Arrés. I have walked the Camino Frances several times and once I walked the Arles Aragones Camino...and I have been a hospitalera eight times. Walking and working on the Camino are fantastic experiences. Thanks for sharing yours!
Enjoy the next chapter in your Camino life.
Mary Lynn
Waterloo Ontario Canada

 

[Theatregal]

Thank you for your service Janet and Phil. I've enjoyed reading your daily posts very much! It felt like being there! All the best on your camino!

 

[Kirkie]

Today being the day you will see Arres in the rear mirror - buen camino to you both. Between you, a great service is offered to any pilgrim knocking at the door.
Your way of updating on the daily round, the common task, has perhaps alerted some to the behind the scenes chores, as well as the front of house joys of being in role as hospitaleros. I am envious!
I think I read that you have a camino still to walk this summer, may it go well.
Sorry to miss you, I will not be in Navarra till next Tuesday...all going well.

 

[J Willhaus]

Up early to help Rai with his breakfast set and then let him serve it. Phil and I showered and packed up our backpacks. I asked Rai what he needed and if we could help. He only wanted me to show him how to do the washer again. We tried to leave our final bank deposit with MaryLuz, but she was not in so bid Rai farewell and good luck and drove to Jaca to make the deposit after leaving Rai enough for groceries.

Deposit made and then we continued up to Canfranc Estacion thinking we would have a coffee. The Station looks fabulous, but only opens to non guests for coffee at noon so we took some photos and went back across the street for coffee.

Then on the road to Sos del Rey Catholico. I do mean on the road. Mr Google took us the back way through a lot of cool towns on a country road that was paved, but little more. Stopped to take photos as a church from the XI century.

Then to the Paradore in Sos del Rey Catholico. My reservation for 2 Sr Citizens with breakfast in a Superior room did not go through for some reason, but they were able to accommodate. 180 euros for our w room with a view and a Paradore breakfast.

Walked around town. May do the tour at 5 pm although it is all in Spanish and Phil won't catch much, but you get to go inside the buildings. A Famous King of Aragon was born here, hence the name. Medieval hill town...

Now we are enjoying lunch on the terrace. Maybe a nap...I am closing out the thread. Such a great experience, but each albergue has been special can't wait until the next one!

Will start a new thread of our Sarria to Santiago recon trip to check out albergues for me and my students this Christmas!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@J Willhaus, I have discovered this thread today and have only read your first few posts, but it is apparent that anyone who stays where you serve as hospis is blessed indeed. You go above and beyond in many ways, and the thought you put into creating wonderful dinners is outstanding!
Now...about those fly swatters.

 

[NorthernLight]

From Wikipedia re Sos del Rey Catholico:

Located on rocky and elevated terrain, this important border town served well as a stronghold from the year 907 when it was reclaimed by Sancho I of Pamplona.
It was incorporated in 1044 by Ramiro I into the Kingdom of Aragon.
In the year 1452, during the Navarrese Civil War, Queen Juana Enriquea de Córdoba moved to the town, then called "Sos". There she gave birth to the infante Ferdinand on March 10, 1452, who later became Ferdinand II of Aragon, one of the Catholic Monarchs. His birth added "del Rey Católico" to the name of the town, which translates as "of the Catholic King".

The history of the Iberian peninsula is fascinating and if you ever visit the palace in Segovia, one of the state rooms has a series of small statues rimming the upper wall of each of the reigning kings and queens from Pelayo (716), through various Sanchos and Ramiros, ending with this King Ferdinand II, his queen Isabella, then their daughter Juana VII (the ‘mad’ queen whom her father and son usurped).

Thank you for the trip report!

 

[J Willhaus]

Great walled city. Lots of walking in a maize of alleyways, hints of Moorish influence and architecture everywhere. Worth a day trip, I'd say. Loving the Paradore in a big bed with a tub that has handles to get in and out of...

 

[J Willhaus]

Hey! Guess what! We were here in the Eroski at Muxia and saw one of our very early in June French pilgrims today. Although I don't recall his name he remembered ours and treated us like long lost relatives. Said he would message his French companions. He took the bus to Muxia from Santiago. Will spend a few days before heading home from Santiago and will walk the 10 km from his final transit destination back to his front door. The Camino provides...