We're off! Daily updates from the Camino VDLP, April 2016

[Undermanager]

Day 1 - Seville to Guillena 22km

Left Seville at 8.00am in bright sunshine. Popped into the cathedral to see if pagans can sacrifice a chicken for luck, but they only did prayers to some bloke I'd never heard of. The journey to Guillena isn’t exciting. The first two hours are characterised by the grim outskirts of Seville and equally grim suburbs, wasteland, and the odd begger, until you get to the better town of Sontiponce. After a coffee and snack, you leave to go on a straight, exposed dirt track until you get to Guillena, a hat and suncream are a good idea. It took about 6 hours in total, with a long break.

There were no attack dogs seen to harass pilgrims, and you don’t need to carry more than a litre of water. You walk though Guillena following the yellow arrows to get to the 10€ a night municipal albergue, which is fine and has a fridge, and microwave - stock up as you walk through Guillena for lunch the next day. It also has a shower. The bar in front does breakfast and a 6€ pilgrim’s meal and has WiFi.

Guillena is not a buzzing town. You might be kicking your heels all afternoon and evening, wondering what to do with yourself. Or you might just collapse, repair your feet and rest, as it is the first day and bits of your body may be complaining! I saw about 20 pilgrims start today, far more than I expected, and the yellow arrow way marking is easy to follow.

GPS coords of the municipal albergue are: N37 32.533, W006 03.103

And onwards we go …..

 

[Undermanager]

Day 2 - Guilden to Castilblanco

I left about 7.00am, following the arrows down to the ford. After crossing it using the stepping stones, I couldn’t find any more arrows - it was dark. So out with the trusty GPS, a quick check and headed to the main road on the left about 500m away. You walk along the road for a couple of kilometers to the petrol station, turn left then follow the yellow arrows all the way to Castilblanco. You walk through lots of olive groves, quite a bit of up walking and a bit of down. It is a pretty walk. You can’t miss the albergue, as it’s well sign posted, and next to the petrol station as you enter the town.

I arrived at the albergue at 12.00, and it didn't open until 1.00pm. About 20 people had arrived before me and lined up their rucksacks, and a few more arrived afterwards. It was nearly full by about 3.00pm. One Spanish guy got all agitated when people started queuing up to get their stamp and check in, but not in rucksack order! I think he expected everyone to wait while the owners got back from the bars to claim their rucksacks and queue position.

If you come out of the albergue, turn right and walk for 10 minutes, you’ll come to lots of bars for some food and drink, and shops, for supplies for the next day.

This stage is too far short. If I’d thought about it, I may have taken a bus or taxi for the next 16 kms, and then walked another 16 kms to Almaden, but I’m not that organised. Like yesterday, you spend a lot of time killing time, which I’m not too good at. A big surprise is the number of people walking. I guess about 30 - 40 at the moment. I may be wrong, but I suspect people will start getting up earlier and walking faster, to secure their albergue place in the next town. We shall see.

And onwards we go .....

 

[nalod]

Great to read you detailed accounts, the numbers are surprising me, but am delighted for all the different business along the way that need the extra traffic. Basically from now on you you have much longer walking days, I did the entire journey 2013 in 32 days.

 

[chinasky]

I'm impressed by the number you're talking about, too. I'll start the camino in a month and i wasn't planning to wake up early or rush in order to find a place where to sleep like along the French way. Maybe it's an effect of the Semana Santa holydays...

 

[LTfit]

I am also very surprised by the numbers as I have never been with more than 6! April-May seems to be the busiest period along the Plata.

 

[alansykes]

I am also very surprised by the numbers as I have never been with more than 6! April-May seems to be the busiest period along the Plata.

Traffic jams on the VdlP? Amazing. One year, I met no other pilgrims between Guillena and Fuenterroble, and then none from Fuenterrroble to Tábara..

 

[Anniesantiago]

Add me to the surprised list.

 

[LTfit]

@Undermanager
Please continue and post updates about accommodations etc so I can keep the information on our list current (resource section).

 

[Kiwi-family]

Telling myself to breathe deeply. I had been told the Primitivo was really quiet and we ended up often getting the last beds and sometimes sleeping two to a bed just to avoid walking on further - other nights we let in "camino family" after the hospitaleros had gone home because a spot on the floor was better than a spot outside. Really hoping the Via de la Plata is not going to be the same!

By the way, excellent updates. I leave in a month.

 

[KinkyOne]

@Undermanager
I really enjoy reading your posts as I did last year from Camino de Madrid
Please continue.

Ultreia!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 3 Castilblanco - Almaden - El Real 43 kms

The municipal albergue in Castilblanco was full by mid afternoon. People were still arriving well into the evening and were then having to go and find a pension, so have a back-up plan or two. There must be around 50 pilgrims moving en masse from Castilblanco now, looking for places each day in each place, and I’m not convinced that every place can take these numbers. I’m very slow and tend to arrive behind most other people so time for a new plan! The albergue in Castilblabco is nice, with good views, a kitchen and a couple of showers. The smell in the big dorm is baaad in the morning! Come out of the albergue, turn right and walk for 5 minutes to find plenty of bars, shops and cafes.

So, I made an executive decision and booked a taxi in the hostel from Castilblanco to the start of the Parque Natural, Sierra North, about 16km away. It’s €25 per taxi. I mentioned this to another person in the albergue who wanted to join me, and then two more joined us so in the end, four of us shared a taxi for about €7 each. And what a brilliant move that was!

The road to walk is a main road, without pavements, with twists and blind turns and lots of mist. In short, it is bloody dangerous and one day, some will be hit by a car. But also, you arrive at the park entrance by the road when it is dark at about 7.15am. Then the day breaks and you see many animals, hear the dawn chorus and see the park wake up. You’ll need a light for the first half hour to spot the yellow arrows in the park but you’ll do well to get lost! If you are going to walk to the park along the road, write your will first, then see a priest for confession, and wear a light and reflective gear. The mist was bad today and fast cars will only see you at the last moment. If you walk from Castilblanco (and survive) you won’t get to the park until about 11.00am.

The walk through the park is really beautiful. But today, it rained and was heavy at times, and even more heavy rain is forecast tomorrow. I was very glad I had the waterproof jacket and trousers, and a waterproof backpack cover, and leather walking boots! The last kilometer before Almaden has a knackering uphill slog. Enjoy.

The walk through the patk took about 3 hours. We stopped in Almaden for breakfast then carried on for another 14kms approx to El Real. Again, it was a great walk, a bit knackering with one major uphill slog. It took another four and a half hours and I finally collapsed into the guesthouse at 70 Calle Real - €10 for my own room rather than the same price in one of the albergues! Calle Real is the main road in this large village. Just follow the Camino through the town. It's a few meters from the turn off to the castle. One thing, the shower is hot the people lovely but the room is cold. Having said that, I was really warm in bed, slept fantastically and the breakfast was brilliant. And the fire under the table with everyone having a blanket covering their legs to get the heat is worth experiencing . Thoroughly recommended. The GPS coordinates are N37 57.064 W006 09.296.

I’m hoping that I’m one stage ahead of this block of 50 pilgrims now so accommodation should be more relaxed, and I’m going to try to jump one more stage as well somehow soon, just to make sure. Today’s route was brilliant, tiring, but easy to follow.

Now for some food and an early night.

And onwards we go …..

 

[Undermanager]

April-May seems to be the busiest period along the Plata.

Now you tell me!

 

[LTfit]

Since walking the Plata for the first time in 2011 this is a first! Curious, what are the nationalities walking now?

Maybe the universe is telling me that it is time to start that albergue I've been thinking about for the past 3 years

 

[Undermanager]

A lot of French and Italian. Quite a few German and Spanish, too. Only met one other Brit. Yes, most people I've spoken to are really surprised at the numbers.

 

[Saint Mike II]

A good report on what is often a difficult camino. Your comments about the first 10 km out of Sevilla have been expressed by just about every pilgrim, which is why many now get the bus to Santiponce - which allows you to still have some time for exploring Sevilla and still make it to Guillena. The comments about the road out of Castilblanco are very real - I think there was a post a few years back about a pilgrim being killed on the road (I think it was before the Autoway was built). Enjoy the next 3/4/5/....10 days. Cheers

 

[Hikoi]

Now you tell me!

Yeah! I chose this Camino precisely for its purported lack of crowds! Here's hoping it's a Holy Week blip. But maybe I'm to be taught something! Off on Wednesday.

 

[Richo]

Yeah! I chose this Camino precisely for its purported lack of crowds! Here's hoping it's a Holy Week blip. But maybe I'm to be taught something! Off on Wednesday.

I hear you, Hikoi. Me too, although I don't start till 14 September.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 4 El Real to Monesterio 20km

Today would have been a relatively easy day, if it hadn’t been for the driving rain and cold conditions. Anyone leaving El Real without a decent jacket and waterproof trousers, boots, rucksack cover and fleece, and a change of clothing protected inside the rucksack, may well be in for a miserable 24 hours until they get somewhere to dry out. I have pretty good gear with me but still ended up damp and cold by the time I got to Monesterio, but also feeling remarkably good and happy that I made it.

I left at 8.30am. The first 12 kms from El Real was beautiful, even in the cold and rain. You follow a gently, rolling old Roman road, passing big hills, farms, black pigs and cattle. After about 3 hours, you have to cross under a motorway, but just at this spot is a 24 hour service station, with shops, restaurants and even a hotel. It was like Jerusalem! I entered this place, slightly worried as I was dripping wet, but saw it had about a dozen other soggy pilgrims, sipping hot coffees, teas and chocolate. Although no one was in a hurry - there was after all only another 8 kms to go - everyone seemed to know that the rain wasn’t due to let up until later this evening. Everyone had to brave it at some point!

So, people set off once they had mentally prepared themselves. It’s about another two hours of walking, and in this weather, most walked on a minor road when they could rather than the dirt track that ran along side it.

Monesterio is a medium-sized tourist town. As you enter it, there’s a tourist info office inside the ham museum. 5 minutes later, you’ll be in the town center and will pass a couple of albergues and lots of pensions. I chose Hostel Extremedera, on the main road on the right. No GPS coordinates as I don't recommend it. Read on .....

For the same price (€10 + €1 for a big towel) as an albergie bed, I had my own spotless en suite single room. However, I think it is a poor choice on reflection. There is no heating here and today, it is really needed. It may be good value, but you could die of hyperthermia in this hostel. I’m in bed writing this but may have to risk getting out to unpack the sleeping bag - that's good down to minus 4 deg C. I swear it is warmer outside than in here! I guess most days, heating isn’t needed but dead pilgrims who have to be thawed out before being buried can't be good for business or the image of the camino. No effort at all was made by the owner to help the punters who arrived when I did, clearly soaking wet through and clearly freezing. None at all. This isn't about business. It's about humanity.

The shower was brilliantly hot though and the bed comfy. There are plenty of cafes and bars nearby, all it seemed were either closed or didn't serve food. You can hang things up to dry on the roof, maybe, if the horizontal rain stops! I am looking forward to leaving Monesterio and am concerned I can't dry anything out. And the little toe on my right foot has flared up big time so now I'm limping.

The weather's due to get better this evening so hopefully, I can do some washing and get everything properly dried out. Tomorrow should be sunnier and warmer.

And onwards we go …..

 

[Undermanager]

Yeah! I chose this Camino precisely for its purported lack of crowds! Here's hoping it's a Holy Week blip. But maybe I'm to be taught something! Off on Wednesday.

It is busy! You could always change your plan and do the Camino Madrid - now that one really is quiet!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 5 Monesterio - Fuenta de Cantos - Calzadilla - Puebla de Sancho Perez 44km

Oh boy oh boy. What a day. Brilliant. Exhausting. My right foot really hurts now but what the hell. I have a left one. My hostel tonight, El Monte is just the best and has restored my faith in the Spanish on this Camino! Yesterday, everywhere in Monestrrio was full again apparently. Some people were paying silly amounts for a room I found out over breakfast today and the taxi drivers were even ferrying people to Fuenta as they arrived yesterday late afternoon. If you are doing the VLDP now, have long lists of places to stay, have back-up plans and book ahead if you can. Messing about looking for a room is not want you want at the end of a long day’s walking.

It didn’t start well today, it has to be said. The young girl with bitten fingernails in the very large bar / cafe to the right of the Hostel Fridge I stayed in last night decided to try and short change me for breakfast from a €20 note - It didn’t work but she gave it her best shot. Unlucky.

I set off at a pace in mist and damp but eager to leave Monesterio at 8.00am knowing the weather should clear soon and be nice. Everything I had was damp but by careful airing for an hour at a time as I walked, I’ve managed to dry everything. The walk itself was fantastic. Beautiful. Fresh. Green.

I arrived at Fuenta at 12.00am, far too soon to stop. So I didn’t. I checked my notes, stopped off in a shop for more lemon tea and energy-giving cakes and headed for Calzadilla, just over an hour away. It has an Albergue and at least one private place to stay, doesn’t it?

When I arrived at 1.30pm I headed for the Town Hall, which is on the Camino in the village on your right. You can’t miss it. The short, fat sweating functionary in the Town Hall was on the phone for 15 minutes, then eventually asked me ‘what?’ Faulty Towers and Manuel sprang to mind.

Seriously, the EU has given 10s of millions of Euros to maintain and develop the different Caminos and attract foreign hikers and pilgrims across the globe, who bring in millions every year to local families and businesses. Calzadilla is on the route and erects all kinds of publicity boards to promote itself. Spain then decides to employ a fat, sweaty Spaniard to man the Town Hall, who is highly qualified in being unhelpful, loud and rude and has zero English skills, zero dealing with the public skills or any common sense. Did anyone ask him about his people skills at interview, or ask him a few simple questions in English? What do Spanish people learn at school - English is the world’s business language, like it or not.

Despite dozens of pilgrims calling on him each day to ask for the albergue key (what else are they ever going to ask him), he talks as fast and as loud as he can with as many gestures per second as he can muster, all so he doesn’t have to converse with non-Spanish speakers. He gets Spain’s Dick of the Year award 2016.

Another reason I hope that UK votes to leave Europe Union. Fat sweaty man can then cruise, being rude to his fellow Spanish and it being accepted.

So onwards. After finding no alternatives I left. Another outstandingly brilliant and beautiful walk. Really stunning and nothing today has been over strenuous. Thank goodness the weather was perfect today, sunny, a few clouds and a bit nippy. I was however, shattered. I had enough supplies and liquid but the foot hurt when I stopped but I had to stop to relax.

It worked! After 42 kms, I hit Pueblo. I wasn’t going to walk any further to Zafra. I was dead. Turning right at the main road into Pueblo by the sign saying 200m, I found Hostel El Monte 500 meters away, at GPS N38 23.659 W 006 23.825 and they were so nice. I walked in to this very large bar area, made the international sleep sign of two palmed hands together on my cheek, was handed a key, a glass of wine and pointed in the right direction to the room.

The spotless en suite single room was brilliant for €20 and exceptional value. The ‘nomal’ wine out of the plastic container was fantastic. The set menu for €8.50 was brilliant in the bar. I asked the hostess to pick from a comprehensive list rather than me trying to work out what everything was and she didn’t disappoint.

What a great place to stop and thoroughly recommended. You will recharge the batteries by staying here.

I walked for between 10 and 11 hours today. I’m showered, clean but ready for bed and it’s just gone 8.00pm. Tomorrow is going to be a relatively short 25kms but can’t wait. I just hope the toe calms down! I've also made up another stage so it is as if I left Seville on the 30th March. I like pushing myself like this so will see if I can get to Merida for a long weekend.

And onwards we go …..

 

[KinkyOne]

I arrived at Fuenta at 12.00am, far too soon to stop. So I didn’t. I checked my notes, stopped off in a shop for more lemon tea and energy-giving cakes and headed for Calzadilla, just over an hour away. It has an Albergue and at least one private place to stay, doesn’t it?

When I arrived at 1.30pm I headed for the Town Hall, which is on the Camino in the village on your right. You can’t miss it. The short, fat sweating functionary in the Town Hall was on the phone for 15 minutes, then eventually asked me ‘what?’ Faulty Towers and Manuel sprang to mind.

Seriously, the EU has given 10s of millions of Euros to maintain and develop the different Caminos and attract foreign hikers and pilgrims across the globe, who bring in millions every year to local families and businesses. Calzadilla is on the route and erects all kinds of publicity boards to promote itself. Spain then decides to employ a fat, sweaty Spaniard to man the Town Hall, who is highly qualified in being unhelpful, loud and rude and has zero English skills, zero dealing with the public skills or any common sense. Did anyone ask him about his people skills at interview, or ask him a few simple questions in English? What do Spanish people learn at school - English is the world’s business language, like it or not.

Despite dozens of pilgrims calling on him each day to ask for the albergue key (what else are they ever going to ask him), he talks as fast and as loud as he can with as many gestures per second as he can muster, all so he doesn’t have to converse with non-Spanish speakers. He gets Spain’s Dick of the Year award 2016.

Another reason I hope that UK votes to leave Europe Union. Fat sweaty man can then cruise, being rude to his fellow Spanish and it being accepted.

So onwards. After finding no alternatives I left. Another outstandingly brilliant and beautiful walk. Really stunning and nothing today has been over strenuous. Thank goodness the weather was perfect today, sunny, a few clouds and a bit nippy. I was however, shattered. I had enough supplies and liquid but the foot hurt when I stopped but I had to stop to relax.

What happened in Fuente de Cantos apart from this sweaty guy? Why didn't you stay there?

Ahm, well, you should be able to speak Spanish at least to the level to secure yourself a bed for the night IMO. I wonder what would you say if I walk in your pension and start to speak Slovenian??? Business language??? That's it?
But mention of Fawlty Towers (Filthy Towels etc.) and Manuel really made me laugh

UK going out of EU won't change anything and especially nothing about that guy's attitude But I can sort of understand you

Wish you more pleasant Camino from now on!

 

[Maxie]

Dear God, please don't let the isolationists have their way.

 

[Undermanager]

I forgot to mention, the owner of El Monte brought a dish bowl full of salt to my room after I had finished up the dinner and wine. He had previously observed my crippled state of walking after the long hike today. Then he filled it with scolding water and in the en suite bathroom, helped me dunk my feet in it!

Now if that isn't worth stopping at this hotel for, I don't know what is.

 

[Undermanager]

What happened in Fuente de Cantos apart from this sweaty guy? Why didn't you stay there?

Because the fat, sweaty one (in Calzadilla not Fuenta) seemed to be suggesting the hostel wasn't open, was being redecorated, was full, had been sold to Iran or had burnt down. In any case, he wouldn't hand over the key!

When I asked about for a hostel or pension from various elders parked on house doorsteps, no one could help. The knock on the door of the one mentioned online got no answer.

I look forward to hearing how successful others have been here .....

 

[KinkyOne]

Because the fat, sweaty one seemed to be suggesting the hostel wasn't open, was being redecorated, was full, had been sold to Iran or had burnt down.

When I asked about for a hostel or pension from various elders, no one could help. The knock on the door of the one mentioned online got no answer.

I look forward to hearing how successful others have been here .....

So you got the info although a bit late
I know, I know, don't want to make you angry after such a long day! I guess I'd be pissed also.

Really wish you Buen Camino!

 

[Undermanager]

Dear God, please don't let the isolationists have their way.

I wouldn't worry too much. I will be voting to leave to rid ourselves of handing out unaccountable millions of Euros for projects that employ people like the fat, sweaty, non-English speaking, International Ambassador ignorant one I encountered today.

But I sadly think the UK will vote to keep wasting money, because it is the easy option.

 

[Undermanager]

So you got the info although a bit late
I know, I know, don't want to make you angry after such a long day! I guess I'd be pissed also.

Really wish you Buen Camino!

There is nothing to be angry about. It was a great day, and ended magnificently.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 6 Puebla to Villafranca 20km

Ouch! OUCH! BLOODY HELL!!!

Serious little toe problem this morning. Absolute agony to touch and not a chance putting the boots on. See a doctor? Stay put for a few days? Bus it forward for a while? Nope. It was a hobble to Zafra a few kms away in the slip-ons and then using the three chapters in my Spanish phrase book called “Shopping”, “At the post office” and “Directions”.

Leather boots have many advantages. Support. Rainproof. Splash through puddles. But you need an extra size than you would normally take, they are heavy and your feet are more confined. I thought I learned all this from last year and got a suitable pair which have been broken in. But ‘braking in’ in the UK and actually doing a Camino in the heat are different things.

I bought the only thing I could walk in without screaming in pain in a shoe shop (open toe sandles) with the wonderful help from the Spanish shop chappie and posted the walking boots home (for a very reasonable €20). Posting was fun. Apparently, towns like Zafra have one place for stamps and letters and another for parcels - it took a lot more than my phrase book to work out where to go!

Now open toe sandles goes against everything I know about hiking, but after today, I feel great and a lot happier. Only a small amount of pain, my toe is recovering and no other issues to report. We shall see how they fair as the walk progresses.

I spent all morning in the large town called Zafra sorting out the shoe things, which is worth stopping in. Very pretty, enough to see for an afternoon and plenty of shops. There are plenty of accommodation options, too.

I walked to Los Santos, a large and pretty village that again is worth staying in, then walked on to Villafranca through vineyards and olive groves in bright blue sky and warm temperatures. I also wore my new hat, which I got in Los Santos - I’d managed to leave mine somewhere in Zafra. I was passed by a few people I met on day 2, who also are trying to get ahead of the crowds.

Arriving in VF at about 6.00pm, I hiked right through the town, passing four or five albergies along the way. The first albergie is just as you enter VF but you then have a 10 minute walk to bars and cafes, so not a good idea. The others you will see as you follow the Camino.

I aimed for Casa Perin and took a single room en suite for €18, did the laundry, hung up the clothes on their roof and headed out for a snack and to try out the wine. GPS N38 33.782 W006 20.134 and recommended. If you stay there, walk out the front door of the Casa and round to the other side of the church on the right of you. Over the road is a large fantastic (UPDATE: GOT FOOD POISONING HERE-SEE NEXT POST) cafe / bar that has a great wide menu, some wonderful wines and helpful English speaking staff.

I don’t mind staying in albergies and like the company but when your own room is either the same or just a few euros more, give me my own room anytime!

Am thinking of directly heading for Merida tomorrow, or perhaps a walk first then bus, so I can have a rest day, visit the Roman ruins and keep ahead of the masses, who are only a day or two behind me!

And onwards we go …..

 

[KinkyOne]

Really AUCH!!! Surely don't envy you...
But do think of buying something more firm than sandals by the time you get to Zamora (for Sanabres) or Astorga (for CF). And by then your little toe will be OK hopefully.

Ultreia!

 

[ratyoke]

I'm surprised and disappointed to hear there are so many people walking the VdlP. I'm starting it in about 2 weeks.

 

[LesBrass]

Loving your updates... totally understand the little toe pain associated with tight leather boots after my first camino! And I dont like to wish away time... but roll on 21st September!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 7 Villafranca - Almandraiejo - Merida

You know what I said about the food being good in the cafe round the other side of the church from Casa Perin - don’t eat there! I woke up knowing something was wrong with my guts. More on this later.

I couldn’t eat anything, the feet seemed good so set off at 8.00am in nice sunshine but a bit nippy - perfect. I met various people I’d seen before in the first hour and was making good progress. Today was potentially 28km to Torremojia and then a bus or hitch to Merida and stay there for 2 nights.

This section is long, exposed, flat, hot and there are no facilities of any kind or shade. Be prepared with a hat and liquid and some food! I took two litres of water and it wasn’t enough, because of my food poisoning, fever and illness starting to get worse (ironically, the feet were fine!) I was starting to feel exhausted as the stomach really began to play up. I was breathing an eggy smell. I had to have frequent stops, my mouth was dry no matter how much I drank and the toilet roll had to be handy. Worse, you couldn’t just abandon the trip as this was a dirt track with hardly any traffic, just the odd farmer. I was on my own and miles from anywhere. Funny, but I posted something only recently about being able to spot the signs of heat exhaustion, and being able to take some action.

It took four and a half long hours to get to the turnoff for Almandraiejo, and even then, there was 4kms more to walk from the turn-off to the town. I just couldn’t do it. I waited about half an hour here and eventually someone came, but weren’t going into town. How kind, they left me half a bottle of water.

The next car was five minutes later, I stuck out my hitching thumb, looked as ill as possible and the wonderful chap stopped! He took me all the way to Almandraiejo and more, even took me to the bus station when he asked where I wanted to go. This is a large spread out town and the bus station was about 2kms outside the centre. When I arrived, there was a bus due to leave at 1.35pm to Merida in only 10 minutes so I bought a €2.20 ticket and was in Merida by 2.00pm Result.

Except there is very little cheap accommodation here and this city is very big and spread out. I went round in circles looking for Hostel Bueno and when I eventually found it, it was shut up and a ‘for sale’ sign was stuck on it - confirmed by a neighbour. I never saw any other hostels, just expensive looking hotels. Neither did I see any albergies. Lucky, someone who was staying in the Municipal Hostel spotted me looking sad and dejected and finally pointed me in the right direction. You walk from the Roman bridge to the new bridge and then another 500m. It’s very badly signposted but just keep asking. The GPS coordinates are N38 55.212 W006 21.167 and It’s pretty close to the river. There is no WiFi, it costs €6 a night, there is a washing machine and is basic but fine. I was seriously unwell by now. It had taken about an hour and a half to get to the albergie!!

GPS coordinates save so much time and we should all try to start taking them and sharing them for accommodation, recommended Cafes, places to get a Credential etc.

I had a shower, climbed into my sleeping bag with fleeces on and slept until someone arrived to register me. When I was woken, I made it to reception, booked in for 2 nights to recover, then collapsed in an embarrassing heap. I was helped outside and soon recovered but climbed back into bed when I could.

This is a hard reminder that some of these stages can be hard and dangerous. Being ill or becoming ill whilst walking, not having enough water or food, no hat, heat exhaustion or being on your own all raise the risks. I knew I was in some trouble by about 11.00am but managed to spot the signs, had a bale-out plan such that it was, and wasn’t afraid to quit a stage. Merida is a pig for accommodation but is worth staying for a few nights. It’s very pretty with some great Roman ruins. Book your accommodation in advance if you can for here.

I’m still feeling knackered and feverish and won’t be continuing until I’m 100%.

And onwards we don’t go …..

 

[norelle]

I hope you feel better soon!

 

[KinkyOne]

I wish you get well soon @Undermanager

Ultreia!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 8 Merida

Thanks. Feeling human again this morning. The albergie was (relatively) snore free. It was full as well, all 20 places taken by the evening. Everyone had gone by 8.00am. Had a light breakfast and bought a €15 tourist ticket and did the tour of all the Roman sites, plus the museum. Then topped up the wallet with a few Euros. Sat around doing nothing in particular for the rest of the day. Looked for some new walking shoes but didn't find any I was happy with. Couldn’t find WiFi anywhere in Merida, although the bar just before the albergue had it in the restaurant.

I did stumble across Hostel Senaro on my travels. As you walk off the Roman bridge, you turn left to the new road bridge. From there, you need to go up the hill on the main road called Calle Almonoralejo, take the first right and then the immediate first left at a junction of many roads. It is 50m on your right. The GPS coordinates are N38 54.972 W006 20.657. Some pilgrims also arrived saying they had tried to find an albergue on the other side of the river (the other side to where the Romans ruins are), but it was closed.

Will hopefully set off tomorrow. Not sure if to do just the short stage or tag on the next one as well.

And onwards we go …..

 

[Kiwi-family]

If your sandals are comfortable I wouldn't trade them for anything else!
Take it easy the first day. Even if you feel great at the end of the "short" stage you may not when you're halfway to the next albergue. Let yourself rest and recover.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 9 Merida - Proserpina - Aljucen - Alcuescar 38kms

A truly magnificent day. The albergue was full again in Merida last night but late arrivals got a mattress on the floor. I like this albergue. It’s friendly.

I left at 7.30am and followed the signs out of the city, although they follow a different route compared to my GPS track and adds another 3 or 4 kms to the trip. The new route is okay to follow and takes you round the Romans reservoir. This is an amazing structure and we'll worth a visit. I loved this and is a highlight so far!

You then strike out for Aljucen. It’s a great walk with not too many ups and downs. I got there about 11.30am, had some drinks and a snack, used the free WiFi in the bar opposite the albergue and left at midday for Alcuescar.

This is for me the best walk so far. Beautiful, rolling natural park with great scenary stretching for miles. Colourful birds all over the place, flowers in a riot of full bloom. A few small streams to cross, stop and dip your feet and take in the walk. The last 7 kms involve a 3km steady climb and then 4kms going down all the way to the albergue in the monestery - not too difficult. The temperature was perfect today, starting chilly but never more than about 22 deg C in the middle of the day. I took 2.5 litres of water and drank it all. I wouldn’t take anything less for this stretch. You need even more in really hot weather.

Why would you not stay in the albergue in the monestery? Well, it is by a main road and isn’t the prettiest building to look at. But, what a great welcome and evening I had here! Inside, everything is interesting. I had a double room with an Italian. It’s donation only. An excellent evening meal is provided with everyone sitting around a big table - lots of nationalities trying their best to communicate and using phrasebooks. Everyone was friendly. The gardens are fine with an area to wash and dry clothes and the showers are plentiful and super hot. There’s also a pub opposite. The monks do great work running a care facility and it’s just well worth staying here for the experience. Thoroughly recommended. The GPS coordinates are N39 10.888 W006 14.246.

The body appears to have completely recovered now from the food poisoning. The feet were fine in their sandels today and the little toe is not painful to touch anymore. I will be looking out for a new pair of walking shoes in the next town but am a convert to open-toed sandels now!

And onwards we go …..

 

[KinkyOne]

It's always nice to hear good news

 

[AlanB]

Nothing to do Guillena? The municipal albergue has access to all the sports facilities....pool etc. gratis for pilgrims. A lovely facility. Top notch.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 10 Alcuescar - Valdesalor 26km

It looks like I’ve completed about a quarter of the way to Santiago now. A gloomy, damp, cloudy day, quite cold with frequent showers, some heavy and prolonged. I set off at 7.30am after a quick coffee from the machine in the monastery. It soon started to rain so put the waterproofs on and upped the pace. It was pretty cold so had to wear a fleece, too.

After yesterday, it was never going to be a spectacular day, but with the rain and poor visibility, it certainly wasn’t. About two thirds of the day is walking across countryside and one third by or near a road, and mostly gentle slopes or flat.

There is a 24 hour petrol station and attached cafe about 1km before where the Camino crosses the motorway, and 200m from the Camino, near Aldea del Cano. I had a long breakfast there around midday as the rain was getting heavy again.

After the break, it was another three hours to Valdesalor, which passed quickly. I got one of the last beds in the albergue in Valdesalor as a Camino group tour had arrived and taken over much of it. The last couple of beds were taken about 30 minutes later. It’s €6 a bed. There are 12 beds, one large sitting area, one shower / toilet and kitchen and no WiFi. It’s okay but be warned - the tiling everywhere along with plain walls makes this possibly the noisiest albergue I’ve stayed in. Give it a miss if you want your eardrums to be rested. By about 7.00pm, I’d wished I had walked on, such was the deafening noise from a couple of people.

You can’t miss the albergue - it’s almost the first building you reach in the village and has a big shell on the side. It seems to be a theme of my posts, but have a back-up plan in case it is full when you arrive, or think about an early arrival. The bar opposite the albergue was closed. The bar where you sign into the albergue doesn’t have WiFi.

I’m not sure how I feel about a tour group turning up to a small albergue unannounced and snaffling most of the beds in one go. Surely, the albergue system is best when individuals and couples can turn up and know they have a good chance of a bed for the night? Tour group guides charge money for their “services”. They should pre-book a cheap hostel and let the albergue alone.

The rest of today was spent reading (impossible inside the albergue because of the noise in the building, the American organised group and one Spanish couple in particular, who have had permanent verbal diarrhoea at ridiculous volumes in every albergue I have been in when they have been there), having a few drinks and doing nothing in particular. Will hopefully get some new walking shoes tomorrow. The weather forecast for the next week looks like a lot of persistent rain so may well need them!

And onwards we go.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 11 Valdesalor - Casar de Casares 23km

Set off at 6.30am in the cold and rain and knowing it could be heavy rain at times - the need to move on and escape trumped the need to wait until the weather was better. There was a petrol station just outside Valdesalor so stopped for a coffee there for 20 minutes until the rain relaxed a bit. Looking at the GPS, it was either follow the Camino on a muddy dirt road in the rain or do a road march into Casares. I decided to road march it and covered 11 kms in just over 2 hours, with a little bit of rain along the way. It was surprisingly good fun! Using a GPS as you enter Casares helps you find your way to the center without too much faffing about.

There is a great little cafe you can have breakfast in as you first enter Casares in an industrial estate. You walk past it. They did a massive breakfast with a couple of coffees for €5 and made me feel very welcome. The GPS coordinates are N39 27.142 W006 21.956

I then headed into town, bought some new hiking shoes in the center and then went off to the old town for a couple of hours for a bit of siteseeing. Casares is certainly worth staying in for a night. I suspect the very atmospheric old part would look great at night but it would make a good rest day.

The weather seemed okay at about 1.00pm so set off for another road march to Casa de Casares, 11km away. The route differed to my GPS track but was easy to follow. Within 30 minutes, the entire sky was black and the rain came pelting down, and didn’t stop for the next two hours. There was no cover, little chance of being picked up hitching so just dug deep with all the wet gear on and marched along the road. I stopped for a while under the motorway bridge about an hour later, the first real cover. Unbelievably, a car pulled over and offered me lift for the last 4 kms into the town, and dropped me off outside the municipal albergue in the center of town! They were ex-pilgrims and saw the shell, rucksack and a soggy looking foreigner and recognised the signs.

You need to register to stay at the municipal albergue at the bar opposite on the main road, Bar Majuca, and it’s donation only. There are about 30 beds and 6 showers, it’s very nice and there are currently only a couple of beds free. Some beds are taken by some of the people who were in the albergue last night, but they are in the other room (can you believe it, I can still hear one particularly loud woman from here!??!) Note that there is a cafe called ‘Albergue de la Rosa’ or something similar as you enter town - it’s not an albergue so don’t get confused. The municipal one is in the middle of town.

The albergue in Embalse de Alcantara, the next stage, is closed at the moment and the hotel is already booked by pilgrims! I will need to aim either for Canaveral (32kms) or Gramaldo (42kms) tomorrow, and the weather forecast is not good again. This may be a good thing, to try once again to get ahead of this block of 30 - 40 pilgrims, rushing to get albergue places! We shall see what tomorrow brings. Perhaps will grab a bus or hitchba bit. All good fun.

And the new shoes seem fine after their first big test this afternoon in the pouring rain. The feet feel good, and were very dry with no extra blisters so the signs are good!

And onwards we go …..

 

[mspath]

Enjoying your posts; hope that you needn't keep on splashing too much longer!

Carpe diem and stay safe!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Sounds like you should have bought flippers!

 

[peregrina2000]

These are great posts, Undermanager. Walking in the rain isn't fun, but at least it isn't the cold rain of Galicia. And walking with dry comfortable feet must surely make it so much easier. Buen camino, know that there are lots of us who would gladly change places with you, no matter what the weather brings! Laurie

 

[Anniesantiago]

I'm so interested to hear where you will walk next.
Thanks for these updates. They're great!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 12 Casar de Casares - Canaveral 32kms

Left at 7.00am, had breakfast and walked off into the rain. Very cold and gloomy today. Lots of showers, some long and very heavy. Got to the lake after about 4 hours. The lake is just a big lake, which is probably nice in sunny weather. There are no cafes, viewing spots with benches etc, just either a long road to follow or the Camino dirt track, which runs near the road. I took the road and frog marched it round the lake in two hours, had some lunch, then stayed on the road all the way to Canaveral.

The yellow arrows are split here. Some take you into the village and some along the road to hostel Canaveral, where I stayed and I think I was the only one who hadn’t booked ahead for a bed. It is full here tonight so got lucky. Except the usual loud, non-stop talkers are here - ouch! The bloke running it is a bit rude and blunt and happily kept a lot of tired and wet people waiting for an age to check in. It's €15 a night for a bed in a dorm, €18 with breakfast. All very new and modern. Quite a few people are sneezing at the moment. Catching a cold will be the final straw.

The weather forecast is bad. Having serious thoughts about quitting at the moment. Being constantly damp and walking in rain is fine for a day to two but this is the third straight day and isn’t likely to change for at least a week. I need some sun! Plus, the accommodation problem makes this no fun at all and I don’t want to keep racing to find somewhere each day. I may quit and go South to the coast or fly somewhere. Let’s sleep on it.

And onwards we may go …..

 

[LesBrass]

From a totally selfish point of view I hope you keep going... I am loving your updates and making notes for my own walk in September. I am getting a bit nervous about the bed situation; we switched from the CF because of the numbers of pilgrims but never anticipated it being a problem on the VdlP. I'm just hoping that most folks are walking in spring and that it calms down a little in the autumn.

Fingers crossed for a good night's rest, and that you have a great meal, your clothes are all dry in the morning and that you can walk without rain tomorrow! If it helps, looking on the weather site I use it says light rain from mid morning but clearing and the same for thursday but Friday is cloud with a touch of sun?

Just out of interest have you met pilgrims that simply had no bed and had to walk on or taxi elsewhere?

 

[Undermanager]

Thanks. We'll see what happens tomorrow but am minded to finish the Camino after a few vinos tonight, go somewhere warm and sunny and come back when Spain's weather has sorted itself out! There is a train station here in Canaveral with trains direct to Madrid. I think I'll see how tomorrow goes then bail out if it is more of the same.

The accommodation thing is now just a pain - there isn't enough for the numbers walking and it seems like 'where you will stay' and 'can you book' is the main topic of conversation in the evenings. Having said that, I've been okay (just) so far but have been mightily pissed off, most recently in Merida. To be fair, the alburguies do their best to help, but I have met people now who have moved on to the next place or had to go hunting after a long day.

Have a Spanish crib sheet at the ready with some choice phrases for finding a bed in a cafe / hostel etc if things get tough.

The one thing I remember about the CdF, is that despite the numbers, there was a ridiculous amount of accommodation available. When I hit the CdF last year from the Camino de Madrid, I never found getting a bed a concern. When I'd had enough of walking for the day, there was always somewhere to stay fairly close.

This weather is a killer. I want sun and warmth, not rain and cold.

 

[LesBrass]

Have you see this post https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/how-is-it-on-frances-muddy.39734/#post-399228 where another pilgrim is wanting to maybe switch because she's feeling isolated on VdlP?

I guess it really is the luck of the draw and if you get caught in a larger bubble it's just not pleasant... and yes I agree that on the CdF there did seem to be lots and lots of accommodation choices which does take the stress out of the walking.

Good luck in your choices... and I hope you find some sunshine!

 

[Undermanager]

"If it helps, looking on the weather site I use it says light rain from mid morning but clearing and the same for thursday but Friday is cloud with a touch of sun?"

What forecast website are you looking at, please? I only want to see the most optimistic ones from now on!

 

[saara kinnunen]

We Are Sorry To Hear Your news. We Shall begin in Salamanca next THURSDAY. We Are afraid that the accommodation problem Will Be there toi . The sun Will shine anyway on some day. Saara and Arto from Finland.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 13 Canaveral to Riolobos 19km

The difference a bit of sunshine makes! The buffet breakfast at hostel Canaveral is well worth the €3 and very recommended. I just wish the bloke running it would look like he is enjoying running his business. Overall, I’m leaving the hostel having enjoyed the night here.

Left at 7.30am with some trepidation. It was cold and largely overcast. Grim. Here we go again. You follow the road out for a few kilometers, then turn left into some kind of park or natural area. It’s just about okay for yellow arrows but not brilliant. You’ll see a wonderful climb up the side of a hill after an hour but it only takes 10 min to do. It will wake you up as you build up a sweat.

Then the sun really broke out, and as the day progressed, it got sunnier and warmer. You walk through nice countryside to the turnoff for Grimandi but nothing special. After that, it really is pretty. Beautiful views, the odd lake, cattle, streams to cross and flowers in full bloom. Fantastic. Make sure you have some food and have a picnic in an idilic spot.

There was one wide stream that had to be crossed just before the fork for Riolobos and Galisteo. Others used the stepping stones but it was warm and sunny so I spent some time removing the shoes and putting on the slip-ons. The stream was incredible. As you stood in it, it washed away the aches under my feet and the miserableness of the last 24 hours. It really did. I could have stayed in the stream for an hour.

I hadn’t planned what to do, but after walking about 6 or 7 hours, I decided to head to Riolobos and have a relaxing afternoon, do some laundry and recharge the batteries. Riolobos is about 2.5km away at the Camino junction (the signs say 1.5km). One direction goes off to Riolobos and the other to Galisteo (the sign says 6km).

It is a bit of a diversion but it isn’t a bad choice to make at all. I got my own apartment for €15 including breakfast at the campsite on the left as you enter the village. You can’t miss it but the GPS coordinates are N39 55.101 W006 17.877. Everyone is very friendly, the rooms are around a sunny courtyard, and it’s so much quieter than last night (my ears did pick up when the Spanish pilgrims said they were heading for Galisteo last night, which did influence my thinking)! I think there is some connection with the campsite and alberguies before and after? The campsite and diversion is heavily plugged, but if you are not in a hurry, It’s not a bad choice at all. There are a few shops in the village, which you might need as the campsite cafe doesn't even think about serving food until 8.00pm.

So, all in all, an excellent day, I’m no longer manically depressed (at least for the next 12 hours) and am very happy and full of beans again, sitting outside in the warm sun in the campsite cafe with a cold beer. Not sure where to aim for tomorrow but I seem to reach a limit of energy after about 7 hours. And it will depend on the weather, of course.

And onwards we go …..

 

[mspath]

Great news! I'm glad to learn that you have had a good day. May you keep on smiling!

 

[nalod]

Good news it is a lovely walk, weather makes a big difference, have a glass of wine or two or three, enjoy.

 

[DaddyLonglegs]

Thanks for your reports which make for another insight into this camino. I'm hoping the pedestrian traffic and bed-bagging has diminished when I start September 5 - I've built up an expectation of quietness so I hope my longing for un-hurried solitude is not a flight of fancy!
Keep walking in comfort and peace.

 

[psheehan]

Excellent posts Undermanager... I'll be continuing on the Plata/Sanabres from Zamora where I finished last May in 3 weeks times...

Hopefully the rain will have eased by then!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 14 Riolobos - Carcaboso - Venta Quemada - Oliva de Plascencia 41km

So, two full weeks of walking! The forecast was lots of rain. As it turned out, it was cold all day but hardly rained at all, just overcast. I left Riolobos at about 8.00am, turning down the free lift from the campsite to the walled city of Galisteo. You walk back to the turnoff then another kilometer before turning left. It’s about 6km along a dirt track to a T junction. The yellow arrows and hostel adverts all point left. However, unless you want to go into Galisteo, you can just keep going straight, and save yourself 3kms. There is no indication that this is an option, but it is where referring to a GPS is handy. You can check the map, see where you are going and alter your plans into your own Camino as required. The next kilometer or two is still on dirt track but then you move on to a quiet country road. There is the odd VdlP sign, but you go straight, straight, straight for the next 10 kilometers or so on the Roman road.

I then followed the yellow arrows in to the small town of Carcobosa at a well-signed turn-off, went to the supermarket for lunch supplies and decided to carry on, as it was only about 1.00pm and the weather was fine. There is a nice picknick area just as you leave town with benches and views. It was a pretty, easy to follow walk across countryside, just a few upward slogs, until you get to the road at Venta Quemada three and a half hours later. Be warned that there is nothing there at the road, except a few adverts for hostels and a few houses!

You to turn right here and go down the road for 6.5 kms to a small village called Oliva de Plascencia. Find the only small supermarket next to the church and you can sign in to the albergue. To get there, I hitched, which took 10 minutes. Others said they just rang the albergue and asked them to fetch them, which they did. My plan is to hitch back in the morning and continue from where I left off. Or bum a lift.

The albergue costs €15 and is luxurious. Seriously nice. Everything inside is quality, from the great showers to the kitchen and sitting area to the rooms. It’s a beautiful place in a beautiful building and highly recommended. My only gripe is the floor in the shower is made of pebbles - bloody hell that hurt under my feet after today’s 41km! There is very little in this village, and the shop near the church closes around 6.00pm. But if you head back to the main road and walk downhill, there is a small friendly bar with WiFi that does great food, if you speak a bit of Spanish. Be warned though they are into their bullfighting! I am really glad I came here. It was a great challenge and worked out really well. I got pretty drunk in the bar and it decided to pour with rain. Someone even guided me back to the albergue holding an umbrella over my head!! A thoroughly recommended place you should go out of your way to experience. Will aim for Banos de Montymayor tomorrow if the weather is kind, or before if it isn't. The forecast didn't look good again this evening.

To be honest, I’ve done very little research about what to see at each stage, and am happy just walking and then winging it - after a day of walking, site-seeing isn’t too high on my list of priorities! I just hope that going back to Venta Quemada is the right thing to do. My feet really ache but nothing too serious. In my haste to send the leather boots back, I forgot to remove the special insoles for walking and am starting to suffer from heel problems like last year. I will try to buy another pair when I can.

And onwards we go …..

 

[Undermanager]

Just realised that the 2 pronged plug for the charger for my electric toothbrush doesn't fit the two pronged electric sockets here in Spain! Any ideas?

 

[KinkyOne]

Buy an oldfashioned one?

 

[MikeJS]

The prongs tend to be slightly different sizes so a ‘careful’ hard push often does the trick! Otherwise you made have to buy a plug and rewire!

 

[Magwood]

I live in Spain and we have had this problem with the plugs that come with toothbrushes. I have just asked my handyman partner for a solution and he can only suggest buying a new plug and screwdriver and changing it. He reckons it will fit your two pin socket when you return home.

I have just started reading this thread, and am thoroughly enjoying it, having walked the VdlP from Mérida this time last year (after walking from Malaga on the Camino Mozarabe).

I too walked amongst an overwhelmingly French and male selection of pilgrims. I only ever really found one Brit along the way and very few single women, although there were some couples walking.

I hope you don't give up, I am looking forward to the next instalments.
Buen Camino!

 

[Undermanager]

Day 15 Oliva de Plascencia - Venta Quemada - Aldeanueva de Camino 30kms

Today was a long, hard slog. Underneath my feet now seriously hurt. I really need to take a day off and maybe see a doctor tomorrow. We’ll see in the morning. I spent this evening with my feet in an ice cold bowl of water and salt. It helped.

I got a taxi back to the VdlP at 8.00am with four others for €2 each and started walking. It was cold all day today with a few light showers. At about 5.00pm, torrential rains hit and anyone out after then got a soaking.

The route today was fine but not always easy to follow. This is especially true of this afternoon, about 5kms before Aldeanueva de Camino. The signs from the motorway are poor at best and often conflicting and confusing with very few yellow arrows.

I had to cross three water streams today, which was exciting. One stream was very fast. I have a routine now for streams, which involves removing boots and socks, putting on slip-ons, wading through the stream, drying off and then hanging the towel and slip-ons outside the rucksack and then moving on. Slip-ons are great for wading across streams because you don’t have to tip-toe across sharp stones.

The countryside was nice enough but nothing spectacular. When you finally enter Aldeanueva de Camino, it is a little confusing. This is a large village, and the touristic albergue is in the centre. You need to ignore the signs at the beginning of the village for hostels that take you left. Just keep walking straight for nearly a kilometer and you will find the center, then walk off to the right when you get to the center for the albergue.

The tourisy albergue is a class act and well worth staying in.

We’ll see how the feet are tomorrow before deciding what to do. If I decide to stay for a recovery day, I will miss the group of 5 Italians, who have been brilliantly funny for the last few days.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 16 The end …..

I woke up this morning with both feet seriously painful. Just standing up is a major problem, let alone walking. I'm no doctor but this isn't a problem that will go away with a day's rest. I hate stopping things I've started but I can’t continue until both feet are fully functioning!

I will be trying to get a bus to Madrid today and then flying home tomorrow. And just as the weather is about to become nice, too. Thanks for reading this blog and hopefully, I’ll be able to pick up and continue it in the future ….

 

[LesBrass]

Oh @Undermanager I am so sad to hear of your pain and problems... that's just bad luck It gives me a reminder that finishing is not guaranteed and taht I shouldn't take any of it for granted.

I'm going to miss your updates but I hope you find out what the problem is ... and that it resolves itself very quickly!

 

[MikeJS]

Sorry to hear that you have to stop. Like you I hate not finishing something but am very aware that if my feet give in so do I! I do hope that all recovers quickly and you will feel like returning in the future.

 

[Undermanager]

Thanks. I'm looking on this as a postponement rather than abandonment. It would be interesting to continue this and do the last 600km in September so that will be the new plan. Last year's Madrid Camino was painful underfoot but not like this. I can hardly walk. I managed to get a direct Madrid bus this afternoon from Aldeanueva del Camino at 3.00pm and a cheap flight back to Birmingham midday tomorrow so all is well. It does remind me that actually, I'm only a day from flying back to the Camino where I left off when I'm fully fit.

It was good fun, especially the last week, when most evenings were spent in the company of 5 singing, cooking Italians, walking to Santiago, who were having a great time. Lots of great company. Walking long distances becomes a drug and I will miss that buzz you get in the evening after a day walking across amazing countryside.

Now where is the phone number of that chiropodist .....

 

[Kiwi-family]

How disappointing - but as you say, not the end of the world (as it would be for those of us from Down Under!)

 

[Kialoa3]

Your Camino will patiently await your return. Heal up and head out again. Best of luck.

 

[Walli Walker]

Wishing you a speedy recovery and return to the camino. I have been enjoying your posts immensely and look forward to the next instalment.

 

[KinkyOne]

Ah, that's too bad, Undermanager... So sorry to hear this. Will definitely miss your posts. I wish you speedy recovery!

 

[DaddyLonglegs]

Sorry to hear you are postponing your walk for the moment - I have enjoyed reading following your footsteps so far - perhaps we will coincide as I begin in early September...who knows what a camino has in store for any of us?

 

[Al the optimist]

Sorry to hear about your problem Undermanager. You have not had the easiest of times this Camino have you? How are you enjoying our sunny Midlands?

 

[Undermanager]

It's bleedin' cold in the Midlands at the moment!

So, two weeks since the feet malfunction, and they are both recovered now fully. They still go numb for some reason from time to time but it must be an age thing. Am looking at heading back for a month soon to finish off the walk, and have some special soles in the footwear now that claim to support my feet better. I've managed to do a load of jobs I've been meaning to do while recovering, so the shed has been painted and it and the kitchen each have a new roof, the bathroom's been redecorated, the dividing wall was built in the living room so I now have a living room and dining room, new tires on the car, new garden chairs and this year's tax return complete! Just waiting for the quotes to have an internal wall knocked down.

Am looking at a flight back to Madrid, then a bus back to Aldeanueva de Camino (or possibly the town after it, Banos, as I gather it is just a road walk between the two?) The weather looks much improved around the area and a few degrees warmer than when I left. No idea if numbers have increased or decreased since a few weeks ago, but I'm sure things will sort itself out. Now, onto the Ryanair / Norwegian site ....

 

[MikeJS]

Good luck I'm in Canaveral atm and its 24 degs in the sun but it is busy.

 

[psheehan]

Thanks for the update Mike, looking forward to starting from Zamora next week.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 17 is coming soon! Next Wednesday to be precise.

Okay, so there has been a four month gap but my feet have now fully recovered, I've been doing some stamina training every day for a while and I'm ready to go. The long distance weather forecast looks promising - a lot less rain than four months ago, but I know they may not be too accurate! May start off in the same hostel in Aldeanueva del Camino if it is open or just start at Bejar. But with a week to go, it's time to start getting excited again .....

 

[KinkyOne]

Day 17 is coming soon! Next Wednesday to be precise.

Okay, so there has been a four month gap but my feet have now fully recovered, I've been doing some stamina training every day for a while and I'm ready to go. The long distance weather forecast looks promising - a lot less rain than four months ago, but I know they may not be too accurate! May start off in the same hostel in Aldeanueva del Camino if it is open or just start at Bejar. But with a week to go, it's time to start getting excited again .....

Great to hear that

 

[Undermanager]

Day 16 and a 1/2

We are back! Left Coventry at 10.00am and arrived in Banos de Montemayor around 4.00pm!! I stepped off the plane and the chap I arranged a car share ride with using BlaBlaCar was there, and a few hours later, he dropped me off in Banos!

Am so glad to be back. It's warm and sunny, about half a dozen in the albergue and a very pretty small town. Bought a few supplies, had a shower and am off to a bar as the sun goes down. Will be wrapping the small toes up in plasters tomorrow and slipping on some hi-tech two layer socks, and using breathable shoes rather than leather walking boots. Let's hope that does the trick.

No plans for tomorrow. Just walking early until I get tired. There seems to be plenty of places to stay.

Here we go again .....

 

[SYates]

Buen Camino, forgive me that I feel envy ;-) SY

 

[psheehan]

Great to hear you're back on the Camino... Stay healthy... Enjoy... Looking forward to reading your posts.

 

[Ants]

All the very best

 

[Undermanager]

Day 17 Banos de Montemayor to Fuenterroble.

Warm and sunny today. Left Banos in the dark but it soon brightened up. There's a stiff climb for half an hour but then things level out until you get to Calzada de Bejar. I was thinking of staying here but it didn't do it for me, just too quite and nothing here except a few houses in the village. Had an expensive drink and sandwich in then left.

Walked on to Valverdi, didn't like it so had a drink in the local bar and left. You end up walking on a long flat dirt road and then a few kilometers to Fuenterroble.

Stayed in the paroquial albergue - just keep walking through the main road and it is at the end of the village. Great evening meal and lots of fun, despite my lousy Spanish. Funny, trying to guess nationalities - all these Europeans look the same!

No toe problems on day 1 but bugger, under my feet again!!! And I have too much stuff again!!

When will I learn. My phone has a great camera, brilliant GPS and I can run my online business from my phone. So why did I still bring a camera, iPad and GPS, complete with chargers, spare batteries and other bits? Why the trousers, fleece jacket, large shampoo and large suntan lotion? Note to self: maximum 7kg in future. By the time you've added water and snacks onto that, it is too heavy!

It's good to be back. I have done everything I can think off for my feet; foot balm before I go for a few weeks, double skinned socks plus sock liner, wrapped up toes, no leather shoes. So far, no blisters but the under foot bruises are back. Oh well. Will see how things go ......

 

[Undermanager]

Day 18 on to San Pedro.

Lies! Lies! This stage feels like 45 km, not the 28km my GPS said! When you leave in the morning, have a look at those Wind Turbines in the distance. That's where you are heading and yes, these are only usually out on hills!

Two hours of crossing open flat hot land leads you to the hills. It should be named The Hill of Flies because there were plagues all the way up and all the way down. In fact, the only place where there weren't any was at the top where the wind blows.

Y'know, if you want one day sleeping out doors on the VDLP, this would be it, under the wind turbines. Bring some food, loads of water, some ear plugs, walk for four or five hours and stay overnight here at the top of the hill before going off to San Pedro. Next time, that is what I will definitely do. I was tempted to flop but didn't have enough water.

Incidentally, there is no water anywhere for this stage or food. Take at least 3 litres maybe 4. If it is hot, you will need every drop.

As it was, when you came off the hills you hit a tarmac road. I followed this all the way to San Pedro, but you will see two well-signposted VDLP signs off towards the left. Up To You But I was knackered and the Tarmac seemed the quickest way. And with 6 kms to go, who am I to refuse a car that pulls up and asks if I want a lift to San Pedro?

This is a long hard day. Be prepared! Still no toe blisters but I walked at a ridiculous 2.5 km/h today. A very long day indeed.

Not sure tomorow. Want a few days in Salamanca but not sure where to stay. Suggestions ....

 

[Staggerlee]

Hotel Reyes Catolicos

An 8-minute walk from Salamanca train station, this low-key urban hotel is 1.1 km from the shops and restaurants at Plaza Mayor, as well as 1.6 km from both the Old and New Cathedrals.

The modest, warmly decorated rooms come with complimentary Wi-Fi and TVs. Some add whirlpool tubs.

The hotel offers continental breakfast for an additional fee. There's also a computer for guest use.

Address: Paseo de la Estación, 32, 37004 Salamanca, Spain
Phone: +34 923 24 10 64

 

[psheehan]

Hostal Concejo, Plaza de la Libertad, 1, 37002 Salamanca

www.hconcejo.com

Perfect location just next to Plaza Mayor. I stayed here before I started Camino Sanabres in May this year. 29 euro per room.

I booked it through booking.com

 

[Undermanager]

Day 19 San Pedro to Salamanca

I liked San Pedro. It has a few bars and shops, the Bar Casa Rural Carreras was friendly with pilgrims' menus and I wish I'd stayed there s few nights. Rooms were only 20 Euros. It would be a nice place to unwind for a couple of days.

So here we are in Salamanca. The sun is shining on a gloriously hot day. Have booked into El Toboso for a few nights, very close to Plaza Mayor. 30 Euros a nights and highly recommended. The room is fine with a shower and the industrial strength snorers from last night can keep others awake - they were really baaaad!

Sadly, the old underfoot foot problems have returned with avengence so will have to rest for at least a few days before deciding the next move; back to the UK with my tail between my legs (again), get on a bus or flight and go have a beach holiday somewhere, stay here another day or two and hope things improve, take a bus to Zamora and just skip a few stages and then rest there. Perhaps I need to do a lot more stages by bus! In my enthusiam, I have a great city break planned from Santiago to Barcelona on 13th Oct so want to do that if possible.

I really should have been more sensible with the weight I'm carrying, especially after last time, and some of the long stretches really don't seem to agree with my feet! Silly me. Still, the weather is great and far better than the UK.

We'll see what happens in a few days.

 

[SYates]

There are worse places to stay than Salamanca ;-) Speedy recovery and Buen Camino, SY

 

[alansykes]

Day 19 San Pedro to Salamanca



go have a beach holiday somewhere, stay here another day or two and hope things improve, take a bus to Zamora and just skip a few stages and then rest there. Perhaps I need to do a lot more stages by bus! .

As @SYates says, there are far worse places to amble round than Salamanca, also Zamora. And missing the stages between the two is no huge loss - tedious northern suburbs of otherwise glorious Salamanca, mostly flat, dull, often next to a busy road, with lengthy views towards a prison watchtower.

 

[alipilgrim]

perhaps you could cull your backpack's weight and mail off all the XS to Ivar in Santiago? That should help your foot pain tremendously.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 20 - Rest day in Salamanca

Thanks for the suggestions. I saw a pharmasist this morning so have some painkillers, more foot cream and a new type of insole - Dr Scholl Planar Fasciitis gel insoles, and strangely, the feet do feel slightly better already! I know rest is the only real cure for Planar Fasciitis but its more about pain management now.

Post XS to Ivar? Is this possible? I was thinking of posting off or dumping loads of stuff. Actually, it's not that much but I reckon 3 Kgs can go easily.

This is a holiday so don't want to sound negative and talk about my feet all time! Salamanca is great and should be a rest day for everyone. There's a lovely old town you can wander around for a day, a great Roman bridge, the usual superb food in millions of cafes and a helpful Tourist Info in Plaza Mayor. The train around the town is fun for 3.5 Euros but go in disguise in case someone you know sees and photos you, wear at least a big bushy beard. Today, there was a vintage car exhibition in Plaza Mayor and I watched someone (two people?) arrive to get married in all their finary in the Cathedral - ahhhhhh.

This is a really big city, sprawling on forever. It took an age getting to the centre from first seeing the city from about 5kms out and I guess it will take an age getting out as well. I have the local bus details to get to the outskirts courtesy of tourist info so that might be an option to increase recovery time. I may force myself to have another rest day tomorrow, hard as I find sitting around. Can I crawl to Santiago? Is that Kosha?

The weather is fabulous. A nice 25 degrees day after day and the forecast appears more or less the same for the next week at least. I would certainly rather be here than in Coventry!

 

[KinkyOne]

Post XS to Ivar? Is this possible? I was thinking of posting off or dumping loads of stuff. Actually, it's not that much but I reckon 3 Kgs can go easily.

Absolutely possible
http://www.casaivar.com/luggage-storage-in-santiago-de-compostela/sending-instructions.html

 

[Magwood]

There is nothing very exciting between Salamanca and Zamora. I walked in two stages, first to Cubo del Vino which was a totally uninspiring day. The second stage was more interesting, but if I remember rightly, mostly on wide flat tracks with little or no shade. Why not bus between the two and enjoy both cities. In took a tour of the cathedral clock tower in Salamanca which was fun.

Someone shared this photo on a Camino FB page yesterday...a system of taping to ease plantar fasciitis. It may help.

 

[Undermanager]

Love those arrows. I'm sure there is the possibility of wicked humour in there somewhere.

Thanks for that suggestion. The bus to Zamora and then stay there for two nights might be a good way to really give the feet a chance to regain their bounce! Am certainly feeling a bit more positive this evening. Time for a beer ....

 

[alipilgrim]

I don't think there's much that will provide such a huge improvement in your sore feet as carrying a much lighter load. Well, besides finding the appropriate footwear. I strongly urge you to purge your bag of anything non-essential! Anything!! Carry the absolute minimum, and restock as necessary along the way. How much do you really need, when it comes right down to it? If you're carrying something only because you might need it, I'd suggest leaving it behind, and then buy it later if I'd becomes necessary. It's much much lighter to carry a few euros than several pounds of unused gear!

 

[C clearly]

What @alipilgrim says is true! While you are resting, you could take inventory and post your list here. After we have all told you what to leave behind, I can guarantee that your pack will be very very light!

 

[SYates]

There is nothing very exciting between Salamanca and Zamora. I walked in two stages, first to Cubo del Vino which was a totally uninspiring day. The second stage was more interesting, but if I remember rightly, mostly on wide flat tracks with little or no shade. Why not bus between the two and enjoy both cities. In took a tour of the cathedral clock tower in Salamanca which was fun.

Someone shared this photo on a Camino FB page yesterday...a system of taping to ease plantar fasciitis. It may help.

View attachment 29261

The system of the taping is sound, but the anchor rounds (the circular parts) have to be repeated after each new layer of the other tape, if not, it will not stay in place.

Buen Camino, SY

 

[Undermanager]

Thanks for this. You are right of course. I think a post box will be in order on Monday.

 

[Juanajoanna]

How are the gel insoles working? I have just discovered I have the dreaded PF as well.

 

[Undermanager]

Really sorry to hear that. Back in April, I had to give up as I just couldn't stand up let alone walk. It took about 10 days of complete rest to recover. Unfortunately, there's no magic pill. The only cure is to rest and that takes time. Getting out of bed and out of a chair are the worst bits. I still scream out sharply, which is embarrassing in a public place!

I can only suggest stop walking for 4 or 5 days and keep your fingers crossed. Use the busses for a while for a different kind of experience and to keep on forward (it will give you far more sight-seeing time), or just go find a beach and relax and return when you are ready. I gave up being precious about walking every meter along time ago - I'm not 21 anymore.

If you are on the CdF, use the luggage transport facilities. Last year, people who used them were really impressed. The comment about reducing weight is very valid, and try feet taping mentioned in a previous post.

The gel soles are only about 12 Euros so you might as well buy them. My feet do seem to be a tadge better this evening. Also, use strong painkillers daily for the next week and buy some foot cream - the pharmasist I talked to was great. Cut back on the distances per day. I'm just going to have to accept that 35kms in a day isn't possible for a while and will be mixing busses with walking when necessary.

There are some stretching exercises that you should do a few times daily. They do help. Google for the techniques.

Good luck. It's incredibly painful and really disappointing to see others zooming off while you struggle to even stand, but you have to force yourself to rest.

 

[Undermanager]

Day 21 Salamanca to Zamora - the bus

The feet are better, not perfect, but better so have decided to skip a few stages as suggested and take a bus straight to Zamora, rest for two more days and then fingers crossed, attempt the next relatively short stage on Tuesday. There is hope. I am also now a two pairs of underpants type of man, having ditched a pair, plus a shirt, a pair of socks and half the medical bag - about a kilo of stuff. That felt good.

On one side of Plaza Mayor in Salamanca, down the steps, you’ll see some taxis waiting by the road. Just in front of them are some bus stops under the arches and opposite what looks like a building that holds a market. The road is one way. Number 4 towards the Cemetery takes you right past the Bus Station. It takes 10 minutes and costs 1 Euro 5 cents. If you keep your eyes open, you’ll see the Bus Station on the left and there is a big sign on the building.

As you walk in, counter number 7 sells tickets between Salamanca and Zamora. The timetable is online; the first one on Sunday is 11.15 and the next one 13.45 but there are more during the week. It costs just over 5 Euros and takes less than an hour.

The Camino didn’t look very inspiring between Salamanca and Zamora, certainly the first half wasn’t. It followed the road for long periods and we passed some pilgrims in road-hike mode. The land is mostly very flat. Saving a few days here I think will be a good move.

I booked into Hostel Trafacio for two nights, as I still need to scream in pain in private when I take off my shoes. It’s 10 minutes walk from the bus station, the lady who checked me in spoke English and it’s really nice. Luv the power shower. Also, step outside the hotel, and there are about 10 fantastic tapas bars within 20 seconds walk. This appears to be a magnet for the local tapas fans so very lively and great fun at night.

Having only spent a morning in Zamora, I love the place. I seem to have arrived on a party day, as there was some kind of fun run this morning and currently, a lot of people are getting very drunk in an alley of bars off Plaza Mayor. The alley starts right opposite the statue of two musicians wearing hoods.

It’s tempting to plan a rest day in Salamanca when in the UK, then not have one in Zamora as it’s only a few days walk away. But I think Zamora deserves at least a day. It’s a town rather than a city so more manageable, with a great river, lots of monuments and plenty of cafes and bars. It's less frantic than Salamanca. The views are really great. I’ve been walking all afternoon and the feet are not complaining too much at all.

It was a very good move stopping here for two days and am really looking forward to sitting around in cafes and soaking it all in tomorrow. Feeling positive. Having fun.