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What are your favourite places on the Primitivo?

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Sam Hardman

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006 (Camino Francés)
2007 (Camino Francés)
2017 (SJPdP - Belorado)
2018 SJPdP - Fisterra/Muxía
I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.

So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
 

Isca-camigo

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Various ones.
The Hospitales route in its entirety is worth lingering over if the weather allows, something to stop and appreciate at so many places. Lugo historic center in the evening, we did the English speaking tour around the cathedral then instead of going for a stand alone meal we toured cafes and bars and had the complimentary tapa with the glasses of wine, it felt like a living centre with locals, families out doing similar, there is so many places to stop and linger on the Primitivo, you will have a long list quite soon.
 

shubertj

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2012, 2013, 2018 Portuguese 2014 Ingles 2017 Fin/Mux 17, 19 Invierno 2018
Primitivo 2019
Totally agree with Isca-camigo observation about taking the Hospitals route but would recommend you stay at a Albergue Samblismo. It is about 2km past Borres and puts you at the closest spot you can stay before going over the Hospitals route. Javier is a wonderful host and cook, it is a great place to stay he has 4 rooms with only 2 beds and one room for 4. You will need to make a reservation as his reputation as a fabulous stop on the Primitivo is growing. Also agree with enjoying the Lugo historic center as a wonderful feeling of being part of the local community watching and eating with all the local families in the main square.
 

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backpack45scb

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2001 CF, 04-6 LP, 07 Port, 08-10 Arles, 11 Mozá,12-13 Gen-LP. 00-10 PCT, 15 Norte, 16 Primi
I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.

So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
Ethnographic Museum of Grandas de Salime for sure. Opens at 11am so plan.
 

Sam Hardman

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006 (Camino Francés)
2007 (Camino Francés)
2017 (SJPdP - Belorado)
2018 SJPdP - Fisterra/Muxía
Totally agree with Isca-camigo observation about taking the Hospitals route but would recommend you stay at a Albergue Samblismo. It is about 3km past Borres and puts you at the closest spot you can stay before going over the Hospitals route. Javier is a wonderful host and cook, it is a great place to stay he has 4 rooms with only 2 beds and one room for 4. You will need to make a reservation as his reputation as a fabulous stop on the Primitive is growing. Also agree with enjoying the Lugo historic center as a wonderful feeling of being part of the local community watching and eating with all the local families in the main square.
@shubertj Thanks for the tip! I have made a note of it.

Did you call to make a reservation? Do you know if they speak English? I am learning Spanish as fast as I can but it is still very basic.
 

Sam Hardman

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006 (Camino Francés)
2007 (Camino Francés)
2017 (SJPdP - Belorado)
2018 SJPdP - Fisterra/Muxía
The Hospitales route in its entirety is worth lingering over if the weather allows, something to stop and appreciate at so many places. Lugo historic center in the evening, we did the English speaking tour around the cathedral then instead of going for a stand alone meal we toured cafes and bars and had the complimentary tapa with the glasses of wine, it felt like a living centre with locals, families out doing similar, there is so many places to stop and linger on the Primitivo, you will have a long list quite soon.
I am really looking forward to this section and crossing my fingers that the weather is good. From what I ahve seen the views are spectacular.
 

shubertj

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2012, 2013, 2018 Portuguese 2014 Ingles 2017 Fin/Mux 17, 19 Invierno 2018
Primitivo 2019
@shubertj Thanks for the tip! I have made a note of it.

Did you call to make a reservation? Do you know if they speak English? I am learning Spanish as fast as I can but it is still very basic.
No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.
 

Sam Hardman

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006 (Camino Francés)
2007 (Camino Francés)
2017 (SJPdP - Belorado)
2018 SJPdP - Fisterra/Muxía
No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.
Thanks for this :) I'll aim to stop here. It sounds like my kind of place.
 

Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Camino(s) past & future
Inglés, '14 '17 Finisterre, '14 '17 '18 Primitivo, '15 '18 Portuguese, '17, '18 San Salvador, '18
When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.

59508

Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!

59509

If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.

Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!

Enjoy your Camino!
 

Sam Hardman

Member
Camino(s) past & future
2006 (Camino Francés)
2007 (Camino Francés)
2017 (SJPdP - Belorado)
2018 SJPdP - Fisterra/Muxía
When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.

View attachment 59508

Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!

View attachment 59509

If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.

Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!

Enjoy your Camino!
The tarta looks amazing, I'll do my best to find one. I am always keen to try new foods!

Thanks for the info about the standing stones. I have been reading a lot about the Primitivo and not seen these mentioned before. It must be a very special place.

I've just been reading your blog and am enjoying your writing. You have some great pictures too :) I really can't wait to be there myself!
 

Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Camino(s) past & future
Inglés, '14 '17 Finisterre, '14 '17 '18 Primitivo, '15 '18 Portuguese, '17, '18 San Salvador, '18
The tarta looks amazing, I'll do my best to find one. I am always keen to try new foods!

Thanks for the info about the standing stones. I have been reading a lot about the Primitivo and not seen these mentioned before. It must be a very special place.

I've just been reading your blog and am enjoying your writing. You have some great pictures too :) I really can't wait to be there myself!
You will love it, of that I am sure!
 

Snuffy

Solo sé que yo no sé nada
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Primitivo (2019)
No we didn't call but Javier speaks very good English. We emailed him at xavialey@hotmail.com and got a quick response. It is a Donativo and he serves a delicious dinner and Bfk. It is located several kms from Borres and is located about 50 yards past the split and can be reached from either trail. I would recommend taking the split towards Pola de Allende, it is first house you see right on the trail. There is also a short cut through to it from the Hospitales route.
How far in advance do you think you have to reserve for Samblismo? Can it just be a day or so before?
 

Pelegrin

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Primitivo June 2013
SJPP - Logroño June 2014
Ingles July2016
When you get to A Fonsagrada, do get the Tarta de Fonsagrada. Fortunately, we had a Spanish pilgrim in our group who knew about this delightful treat with ground almonds in the cake.

View attachment 59508

Also, when leaving A Fonsagrada, you climb another steep hill to another hospital called the Hospital de Montouto. This is a wonderful place to linger and most pilgrims miss the very sacred standing stones behind the Hospital, called the Pedras Dereitas. This high pass must have been special for many, many centuries and I loved the energy of the place!

View attachment 59509

If you want to read more about this, it is my day eight on the Primitivo.

Of course, I also loved Lugo and spent a rest day there. I loved Castro, and was able to see this ancient Celtic site in the late afternoon after walking. I adored the Hospitales route on my day five, but it sure was a long way from Campiello to Berdecedo, so @shubertj 's advice is prudent!

Enjoy your Camino!
I didn´t know about the Tarta de Fonsagrada and I missed the Pedras Dereitas when I did my Primitivo. So, thank you for the information.
As pedras dereitas look like the remains of a dolmen.
 

Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Camino(s) past & future
Inglés, '14 '17 Finisterre, '14 '17 '18 Primitivo, '15 '18 Portuguese, '17, '18 San Salvador, '18
I didn´t know about the Tarta de Fonsagrada and I missed the Pedras Dereitas when I did my Primitivo. So, thank you for the information.
As pedras dereitas look like the remains of a dolmen.
Yes, when I tried to look it up, I found various terminology, "dolmen," "menhir" and as we know it, "standing stones." This is the best info I could find from the Xunta de Galicia.
 

Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Camino(s) past & future
Inglés, '14 '17 Finisterre, '14 '17 '18 Primitivo, '15 '18 Portuguese, '17, '18 San Salvador, '18
I just found this incredible blog by a Spanish journalist, Xurde Morán, click here. It has the most info on the dolmen.
 

Pelegrin

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Primitivo June 2013
SJPP - Logroño June 2014
Ingles July2016
Yes, it is a dolmen without the roof.
Montouto means high hill. There are some other Montoutos in Galicia, western Asturias and Portugal.
 

shubertj

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2012, 2013, 2018 Portuguese 2014 Ingles 2017 Fin/Mux 17, 19 Invierno 2018
Primitivo 2019
How far in advance do you think you have to reserve for Samblismo? Can it just be a day or so before?
I really couldn't give you a good answer, but my guess would be a couple a days ahead could be enough.
 

El Cascayal

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Primitivo (2019)
I loved por Hospitales even though it was cold, with sleet, hail and periods of fog. 4 of us bonded to do it together, even without the wide views it was magnificent. Loved the upper road into Tineo. All the green mountains and streams, the forest paths and Eucalyptus. It was Spring many newborn animals, all the dairy farms and the wildflowers. Loved Lugo, Fonsagrada and so many other places. Want to go right now.
 

Judy's Way

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Autumn (2015) and Spring (2019)
My favourite stage on the Primitivo last month was from Tineo to Campiello (15.1 km) because of the stunning scenery and the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery which is a short detour from the Camino: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/19/day-6-tineo-to-campiello/

We had several special albergues but these stand out: Albergue Ponte Ferreira (communal meal) and Albergue A Pocina de Muniz, a family run albergue Vilar de Camino (photos are on the Day 13 post of the above blog).

Buen Camino!!! :)
 

Elle Bieling

Elle Bieling, PilgrimageTraveler
Camino(s) past & future
Inglés, '14 '17 Finisterre, '14 '17 '18 Primitivo, '15 '18 Portuguese, '17, '18 San Salvador, '18
My favourite stage on the Primitivo last month was from Tineo to Campiello (15.1 km) because of the stunning scenery and the Santa Maria de Obona Monastery which is a short detour from the Camino: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/19/day-6-tineo-to-campiello/

We had several special albergues but these stand out: Albergue Ponte Ferreira (communal meal) and Albergue A Pocina de Muniz, a family run albergue Vilar de Camino (photos are on the Day 13 post of the above blog).

Buen Camino!!! :)
Gorgeous photos, Judy!
 

jennysa

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino F 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 C Aragones 2012, 2017 2018 Via Francigena 2016 & 17 Primitivo 2018
I completed my second Primitivo in May this year. I did it differently the second time around, and I cant wait to do it one more time. Weather didn't permit the Hospitales route this time but it is definitely easier and better than the Polo de Allande route, which I had to do this year. I would recommend a stop at San Juan for the first night - I loved it although it is quite a steep climb to get to it. Then the best albergue on the Primitivo was at Bodenaya. Not to be missed. I also stayed at Samblismo, and sent him a message on Messenger to book ahead. If I had to walk again, I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports. I would stop there next time. I would never again continue to Santiago along the CF once you hit Melide. It is a shock to the system. I am so envious of anyone walking it as I cannot wait to do it for the 3rd time. I used the Wise Pilgrim App, which was excellent.
 

Judy's Way

Member
Camino(s) past & future
Autumn (2015) and Spring (2019)
I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports
I agree with you wholeheartedly on all the points you made.

We stopped at the bar in La Mesa and it looked like a very nice place to stay. The albergue in Castro is wonderful. We were the first arrivals in the early afternoon last month and the hospitalera had no record of our reservation, so make sure you reserve and that the reservation is confirmed. The food is good and the garden is lovely and peaceful.

We also took the Pola route instead of the Hospitales route. This was our experience on that section: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/24/day-8-pola-de-allande-to-berducedo/

The three days that we walked from Melide to Santiago was awfully crowded and we would have happily skipped that section and the Compostela as it detracted from the beautiful experience we had along the Primitivo.

The wonderful new albergue between Castroverde and Lugo is in Vilar de Cas: Albergue A Pocina de Muniz. Here is a link to photos of the albergue: http://throughourlookingglass.ca/index.php/2019/05/27/day-13-cadavo-baleira-to-vilar-de-cas/
 
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Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances 2016
Camino Primitivo May 2019
Camino Norte Sept 2019
There were so many beautiful parts of the Primitivo - my favorites were the forests after Tineo, the clear blue sky and horses on the Hospitales route and the sun rising over the Grandes reservoir.1965C303-01CD-4F8A-8828-5BAE62DA2B00.jpeg558E8C05-DE1D-4A18-8624-D866C9EFB416.jpeg159FAB03-578C-4ECD-A1F9-B2150CDC4669.jpeg
 
Camino(s) past & future
Del Norte from Irun to Santander, Primitivo from Oviedo to Frances to Santiago September 2016
I don't like to overplan my Caminos and usually prefer to just walk until I am tired then stop. But, there are always a few places that are really special and worth planning a visit even if that means finishing a stage a bit early, or walking on a bit longer than usual.

So, for those who have already walked the Primitivo, where should I make a special effort to visit? It could be either an Albergue with a really special atmosphere, or a church, building or place that really stands out.

All suggestions welcome.
Dinner at restaurant on cider alley Oviedo, Hospitales, lunch at
HOTEL LAS GRANDAS overlooking the reservoir, walking the Roman Wall at Lugo
 

E du P B

@storiesfrommysuitcase
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2016, Via Francigena y Norte 2017
Portugues e Inglés 2018, Barcelona a SDC 2019
Albergue Samblismo is a wonderful small albergue with a comunal meal. It’s at the split and if you want to take the route to Hospital there is a track from the albergue directly to the mountain route. Definitely worth booking the day before.
 

shubertj

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
CF 2012, 2013, 2018 Portuguese 2014 Ingles 2017 Fin/Mux 17, 19 Invierno 2018
Primitivo 2019
I completed my second Primitivo in May this year. I did it differently the second time around, and I cant wait to do it one more time. Weather didn't permit the Hospitales route this time but it is definitely easier and better than the Polo de Allande route, which I had to do this year. I would recommend a stop at San Juan for the first night - I loved it although it is quite a steep climb to get to it. Then the best albergue on the Primitivo was at Bodenaya. Not to be missed. I also stayed at Samblismo, and sent him a message on Messenger to book ahead. If I had to walk again, I would definitely stop at La Mesa and not Berducena, and Castro and not Grandes de Salime. There is a wonderful new albergue between Castro Verde and Lugo - I would have to look up the name - and it has excellent reports. I would stop there next time. I would never again continue to Santiago along the CF once you hit Melide. It is a shock to the system. I am so envious of anyone walking it as I cannot wait to do it for the 3rd time. I used the Wise Pilgrim App, which was excellent.
I believe the albergue you were thinking of between Castro verde and Lugo is in Vilar de Cas and called A Pocina de Muniz. its a wonderful stop 15km from Lugo which gives you a long day there without a rest stop.
 
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Camino(s) past & future
SF 2014
Fin\Mux 14 & 18
Portuguese 2017
Aragones 2018
Plan primitivo 2020
I'm planning Primitivo Apr/May 2020, 3rd time planning hopefully this time it will happen:cool:
Like many pilgrims I tend to take each day as it comes rather than pre-planning every stage.
Thank-you all for the great info it will help me with a "little" pre-planning to take in some gems.
 

Binka33

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
2013,2016
Dear companeros!
This is so great to hear about Primitivo! Im planning it this August and I cannot wait! As I have already walked frances and portuguesse Im so excited to do this one! Many thanks for your beautiful suggestions!
 

LakeMcD

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015
Portuguese 2016
GR10/Norte/Primitivo 2017
Chemin LePuy: 2018
Great info everyone. This will be my second Primativo and my first San Salvador.

A couple of years ago we found a great place to eat about 750 meters past Melide. I think it was the second best steak I've had in Spain.
 

Phil71

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Portuguese (2014,2016),Primitivo (2015), San Salvador (2017), Norte (2018), Ingles (2018)
Just to reinforce what others have said. The albergue at Bodenaya - David is such a wonderful host. The ethno museum at grandas - really nice interesting place. And the Hospitales route. I'll also add in the albergue in the monastery at Cornellana - fabulous building and spacious rooms. Buen camino
 

jostony

Camino del Vino
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2015
Finisterre/Muxia 2015
Portugues/F'tre 2017
Ingles 2018
Primitivo 2019
Norte 2020
Really enjoyed the Asturian mountain views on Camino Primitivo. Salas was a nice place to stay.
 

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