What is between Sarria and Santiago? And Muxia?

[Lhollo]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

 

[wayfarer]

You will get differing opinions on the Sarria to Santiago section here but I loved it, it was great to see all the fresh faces starting from there that first morning, some hadn't even been told about the yellow arrows. Plenty of casa rurals along the way as well.
Enjoy it all, walk without expectations and try not to cherry pick is my best advice.

 

[mspath]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

I have walked to Negreira, Olveiroa, San Roque, and Finisterre several times often in winter. Perhaps you might find these pictures/ notes from my December 2011 blog to be helpful for your planning. Included are hot links to the places I stayed and ate. ...As always arriving in Finisterre was unforgetable. Rain and tears were pouring down when later I finally reached kilometer 0 at the old iron cross by the famous lighthouse.

 

[Anamiri]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

This section of the Camino has some great scenery and is nice to walk through. Expect to encounter a lot of people, I made strategies to avoid the crowds after Portomarin. I can understand why you want to walk the traditional Frances route, and I think that starting at Sarria might make that transition easier, as you haven't walked the quiet days leading up to it.
Across several Caminos we stayed in some nice places in that section.
Ferreiros - cant recall the name, a private albergue with themed private rooms. On the hill to the right, Ferreiros is a very small place. No kitchen facilities but their cafe was at the bottom just off the camino.
Lestedo - Hosteria Calistino (private rooms). A very new place, nice decor inside, and nice outdoor space.
Arzua - Bocanuite (apartment) Rua Rego da Rana, just down from the main road. Beautiful views and a private balcony. Nice facilities and centrally located.
Pedrouza - PR Una Estrella Pension - we had the penthouse at the top, (4 beds I think) but there are private rooms on the other floors. Nice views out over the countryside and a well stocked kitchen pantry included in the price. Air conditioned. A nice indoor/outdoor restaurant situated below.
Santiago - Blanco Apartmentos Turisticos (we've stayed there 3 or 4 times). Original stone building exterior with modern decor, and close to the cathedral and Post Office. Air conditioned.

Ive never stayed anywhere decent in Fisterra, so cant help you there, one place I got bitten by bedbugs, the other one had electrical issues, and the power kept going out to the building. Maybe third time I might get lucky. I liked Fisterra, it is a bit touristy but also very pretty, with a lively vibe, a great harbour and lovely beaches. We explored around for a couple of days.
I love Muxia, we didnt stay anywhere particularly memorable, but I love the vibe of the place. Its a quieter and smaller village than Fisterra. We saw a sea otter there and felt quite honoured as we dont have otters in NZ.

Apartments work well for when I walk with my husband, as they usually have a functioning kitchen. My husband is coeliac, so we try to cook for ourselves where we can. When Im on my own I tend more to albergues.

 

[LavanyaLea]

If you are walking off stages to avoid crowd… you can walk a bit further beyond Palas de Rei (which, despite the grand name, I think the place wasn’t very interesting at all, but it was all raining and we were dealing with injuries) to Campaña.

There is a lovely casa rural based in nearby Sambreixo called Casa Blanco (because the dueño is Sr Blanco; hence it’s not Casablanca!). Lovely place, comfy bed, delicious food, amazing hospitalera. She will pick you up either in Palas de Rei or Campaña and drop you back the next morning to resume the Camino. Wi-Fi is weak and mobile reception even weaker, so it’s the perfect place for a quiet solitude.

Near the hotel, there is a castle ruin:
Castle of Pambre
+34 628 26 22 51

Castle of Pambre · 27203 Palas de Rei, Lugo, Spain

★★★★☆ · Castle

goo.gl

I wanted to visit but the rain was so dreadful so we never went.

 

[LavanyaLea]

10km after Portomarin there’s this beautiful ruins:

Castro de Castromaior

Castro de Castromaior · Lugar Castromaior, 8D, 27188 Castromaior, Lugo, Spain

★★★★★ · Tourist attraction

goo.gl

 

[simongx]

I walked this stretch in November 2021 (in fact I had started in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in October). I was worried that as Santiago was drawing nearer my interest in the surroundings would suffer, but in the end this was not the case - it is a beautiful green stretch in spite of being a pilgrim highway. Well, in November 2021 there was hardly anyone...

There are not a lot of sights along the way, but I did like Portomarín and its story, as well as Castromaior. In addition, there is a great deal of Camino-related detail, such as stone crosses and tiny churches. And then there is pulpo a feira, which I really enjoyed both at A Nosa Terra in Palas de Rei and in Pulperia Ezequiel in Melide. I recommend!

As for accommodation, I stayed in a nice private room at Mercadoiro just before Portomarin, then in a hostel in Palas de Rei (in one of those bunk beds with curtains which I think are great value - check out Zendoira), and in a private room in the great Albergue San Francisco in Arzua, where I was received very warmly. The last night I stayed in Lavacolla, in a place I did not like, so I say no more...

I hope this helps!

 

[DoughnutANZ]

Don't forget to stop for a cup of tea at Casa San Xulián, just before Portomarín (run by a forum member).

In Portomarín, O Mirador is recommended for food.

On the way into Santiago, Monte do Gozo Rural Lunch is recommended by a forum member.

 

[VNwalking]

Just a few kms after Saria is a very nice private albergue with a pool - if you bypass staying in Sarria and stay here instead, you will be ahead of the crowd.
I have always liked this part of the camino, in spite of the crowd.
Stay just past or just before the bigger towns and you'll have a much quieter experience.
I loved a private albergue in Ribadiso, on the left just past the bridge (the time I stayed there the albergue by the bridge was full of teenagers...). And there is a nice one a few kms past Palais de Rei, I think called Casa Domingo. If you want to really splurge, I stayed with a friend in a Pazo a little North of Castaneda, Pazo do Sedor. It was very special.

 

[CarolamS]

I haven't walked from Sarria but have walked Santiago to Muxia then Finisterre. I took 4 days walking to Muxia then split the walk onwards to Finisterre into two. The municipal albergue in Dumbria is well worth staying in; ultra modern, financed by the Spanish businessman behind the Zara chain. Muxia is truly lovely, far more peaceful than Fisterra. However there is something very special at reaching the 'end of the earth'.

If you walk between Muxia and Finisterre I recommend the alternative coastal route between Lires and near Canosa. It's a beautiful section and well worth the extra 1km.

Buen Camino

 

[CaminoKentucky]

Really loved staying at Casa Banderas in Vilacha, just before Portomarín. Owned and operated by a couple from California. Great environment, very welcoming, and fantastic dinner and breakfast. Can’t recommend it enough!

 

[mspath]

As you leave Sarria hopefully you will catch a glimpse of early morning magic.

Further west near Palas de Rei you might visit this place of eternal peace

Another detour could be north of Arzua to the monastery Sobrado dos Monxes.

Wherever/however you go Buen camino

 

[annmte]

I stayed in a fantastic casa rural about 8k past Arzúa in a place called O Calle de Ferreira, called Casa do Hórreo, right on the Camino. Owned by hard working couple, recently renovated. Picture on Gronze is old. They now have a lovely welcoming bar attached. Great dinner and full breakfast starting at 7 am. Benefit was that the next morning I was well ahead of people starting from Arzúa - hardly saw anyone for first couple of hours.

Hotel Rural A Casa do Horreo - A Calle de Ferreiros | Hotel | Gronze.com

Información del Hotel Hotel Rural A Casa do Horreo, en A Calle de Ferreiros: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

 

[Richard of York]

Don't forget to stop for a cup of tea at Casa San Xulián, just before Portomarín (run by a forum member).

In Portomarín, O Mirador is recommended for food.

On the way into Santiago, Monte do Gozo Rural Lunch is recommended by a forum member.

Just to let people know, I'm (Casa San Xulián) back in England for the summer (90 day rule grrr), then caminoing in September. Reopening mid October. Sorry, thirsty pilgrims. They have Yorkshire Tea next door at Casa Banderas.

 

[vwzoo]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

The walk between Sarria and Santiago was beautiful and it was exciting as I knew I was getting to Santiago. I walked to Muxia and I thought it was absolutely gorgeous watching the sunset by the church on the rocks. I then walked to Finnesterre to finish the Camino. I preferred Muxia that was my ending deep inside as I am a solitary person Muxia felt more personal. I walked to Finnesterre because I had the time and I wanted to see it, it was gorgeous looking over the ocean at the 0 market. I can't tell you about lodging as I stayed at Albergues and for me they were just places to get some rest some better than others.

 

[HikingGeo]

If you are walking off stages to avoid crowd… you can walk a bit further beyond Palas de Rei (which, despite the grand name, I think the place wasn’t very interesting at all, but it was all raining and we were dealing with injuries) to Campaña.

There is a lovely casa rural based in nearby Sambreixo called Casa Blanco (because the dueño is Sr Blanco; hence it’s not Casablanca!). Lovely place, comfy bed, delicious food, amazing hospitalera. She will pick you up either in Palas de Rei or Campaña and drop you back the next morning to resume the Camino. Wi-Fi is weak and mobile reception even weaker, so it’s the perfect place for a quiet solitude.

Near the hotel, there is a castle ruin:
Castle of Pambre
+34 628 26 22 51

Castle of Pambre · 27203 Palas de Rei, Lugo, Spain

★★★★☆ · Castle

goo.gl

I wanted to visit but the rain was so dreadful so we never went.

I second the recommendation for Casa Blanco for all the reasons stated above by LavanyLea! Far and away the best place we stayed between Sarria and Santiago.

​

 

[Nick Barlow]

I was walking this May, so not as busy (or quite as hot!) as it is now from what I hear, but stopping between the 'main' towns meant I missed a lot of the crowds until I synced up with them again at Arzua and O Pedrouzo. I found walking through Portomarin and Palas du Rei during the late morning quite weird as they were obviously in their rest period between departures and arrivals. I really enjoyed my nights at Las Crucieros in Ferrieros and Casa Molar in Ventas de Naron, both lovely places in the middle of the countryside. I stayed in the albergue dorms, but I think they have private rooms too.

On the way to Finisterre, I really enjoyed the section from Hospital to Cee, especially the first glimpses of Cap Finisterre you get on the way. The albergue in Lago - can't remember the name right now! - was good, so was Espiral in Finisterre, though I think they only have one or two private rooms.

 

[LouisW]

Muxia has a bit more laid back atmosphere compared with Fisterra but there are still plenty of nice restaurants and places to explore. I also liked the small village Lires on the route from Fisterra.

 

[HikingGeo]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

I don't know if it is still open, but I stayed at Hotel Playa Langosteira in Finisterre in 2017. Excellent food and very nice rooms.

 

[Scott Fraser]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

Pension Mar de Frisia is a very nice place to stop in A Brea. https://www.mardefrisia.es/

It's owned by a very nice lady who grew up in Texas before returning to her native Spain. Rooms are very nice. There's a pool and a good breakfast is included in the room price. Only draw back was that at the time we stayed there they didn't serve dinner, but they did arrange for us to take a cab to and from the restaurants in O'Pedrouzo, the best of which IMO is Taste of the Way. Cab was Euro 7 each way.

 

[Hiking Joe]

not plan too much time in Muxia, except for the church (the outside only) not much there last month
the inside burned down and is replaced by a poster .....

 

[Tschempi]

You will get differing opinions on the Sarria to Santiago section here but I loved it, it was great to see all the fresh faces starting from there that first morning, some hadn't even been told about the yellow arrows. Plenty of casa rurals along the way as well.
Enjoy it all, walk without expectations and try not to cherry pick is my best advice.

I fully agree. Just let the camino provide you. Best advice no expectations…

 

[BrianLCrabtree]

I don't know if it is still open, but I stayed at Hotel Playa Langosteira in Finisterre in 2017. Excellent food and very nice rooms.

I stayed at the Hotel Playa Langosteira 12-13 June and had a great experience. There is another hotel in Finisterre called the Hotel Langosteira. Easy to get the two mixed up.

 

[Globetrottingpilgrim2010]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

As for Sarria to Santiago, yes it gets crowded (even back when I walked in 2013), so I’m certain that with the increased number of pilgrims nowadays, you can expect quite a bit of foot traffic. As for the scenery, it was quite lovely with a mix of quaint villages and verdant countryside. My advice would be to book accommodation ahead for this particular section.
As for routes onto Muxia and Finisterre, the last time I walked these Caminos was back in 2016. They were some of the most beautiful sections of any Camino with rolling farmland, charming villages, shaded woodland and ocean vistas. Accommodation is absolutely available (albergues, private rooms, B&B’s, rural stays/private rooms in homes, small hotels) along each stage as are bars, restaurants and grocery stores. The stage from Negreira to Ponte Olveira was quite tiresome (approx. 32km), but a relatively new albergue, Albergue Ponte Olveira, is a welcome place to spend the night. The descent into Muxia is very dramatic with turquoise waters greeting you - if you time your arrival with the tide, the last section is along a lovely white sand beach. Muxia is a magical town with numerous restaurants and accommodation (I stayed at a hotel called A de Lolo which I highly recommend). Be sure to check out the Santuario da Virxe da Barca and the ‘rocking stones’ when in Muxia.
From Muxia I walked to Finisterre (approx. 30km) which I broke up with an overnight in the sleepy village of Lires (halfway between Muxia and Finisterre). These two short walking days gave me plenty of time for exploration, especially in Lires which has a Caribbean-like beach with emerald waters. In Lires I stayed at Casa Lourido which is a private home that rents out charming rooms with private bath that are immaculate and includes a delicious homemade breakfast.
You’ll find tons of accommodation and restaurants in Finisterre. Of note if you are ‘collecting’ Compostelas, is that the route from Santiago to Muxia, Santiago to Finisterre and Muxia to Finisterre ALL constitute separate Compostelas, each one a beautiful work of art!
Buen Camino! 😊

 

[sarahchicago]

Just to let people know, I'm (Casa San Xulián) back in England for the summer (90 day rule grrr), then caminoing in September. Reopening mid October. Sorry, thirsty pilgrims. They have Yorkshire Tea next door at Casa Banderas.

I looked for you last week and was sorry to miss you. We had breakfast pizza just down the street from your spot after a lovely walk in the dark from casa Morgade (5 am departure from our private room to avoid the heat but not wake others!)

 

[Natale]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

I've walked them twice loved it every time.

 

[Richard Smith]

10km after Portomarin there’s this beautiful ruins:

Castro de Castromaior

Castro de Castromaior · Lugar Castromaior, 8D, 27188 Castromaior, Lugo, Spain

★★★★★ · Tourist attraction

goo.gl

Yes! They were only a few hundred metres off the camino but I was surprised so few ppl knew about them, well worth a visit.

 

[Martyduc]

not plan too much time in Muxia, except for the church (the outside only) not much there last month
the inside burned down and is replaced by a poster .....

Yes,,, but the fire was in 2013,,,it was rebuilt by 2015,,, inside as well,,,I have been lucky enough to to get to mass there twice!! The last time was in May this year!!
Muxia in my humble opinion is a very special place!!

 

[Devereaux]

I was walking this May, so not as busy (or quite as hot!) as it is now from what I hear, but stopping between the 'main' towns meant I missed a lot of the crowds until I synced up with them again at Arzua and O Pedrouzo. I found walking through Portomarin and Palas du Rei during the late morning quite weird as they were obviously in their rest period between departures and arrivals. I really enjoyed my nights at Las Crucieros in Ferrieros and Casa Molar in Ventas de Naron, both lovely places in the middle of the countryside. I stayed in the albergue dorms, but I think they have private rooms too.

On the way to Finisterre, I really enjoyed the section from Hospital to Cee, especially the first glimpses of Cap Finisterre you get on the way. The albergue in Lago - can't remember the name right now! - was good, so was Espiral in Finisterre, though I think they only have one or two private rooms.

The albergue in Lago is Albergue Monte Aro and it's an excellent albergue. It's also perfectly placed...after a very steep hill!

 

[JMac56]

Casa Rural Pazo de Sador, just off Camino prior to Arzua, is a lovely place to spend a night (not cheap mind you) before getting to SdC. Buen Camino. 🚶‍♂️

 

[CWBuff]

I am more or less in the middle of this stretch right now and pretty much staying off stages. Possibly because of that I have not encountered the big crowds everyone speaks about but at the same agree that it's nice to talk to fresh faces and rejoice in their enthusiasm

From what other members said above:
Albergue just past Sarria with pool - Casa Barbadello. As an added bonus the restaurant opens at 6:00 for breakfast
Albergue in Ferreiros - Albergue Restorante de Cruceiros. Once you leave the 100km marker is 10 mins away and keep an eye for sign to Casa La Cancerra perhaps 50m after that where you can get 100km sello (looks like Senor opens his gates around 8:00)
O Mirador restaurant in Portomarin - do check the hours. I was there yesterday and was told that they would open at 13:00. Of course my arrival was at 11:00, so I had to grudgingly have desayuno numero duo at the place next door.
Castromaior is where I am now in Pension Casa Maruja - all private rooms with linens and towels provided. Restaurant (the only one it seems) is 1min walk; you have to go there at some point after you check in and tell senora what you want to eat and at what time. Really looking forward to seeing Castro de Castromaior once I start this morning....

Good luck and Buen Camino

 

[trecile]

The albergue in Lago is Albergue Monte Aro and it's an excellent albergue. It's also perfectly placed...after a very steep hill!

Albergue Monte Aro is an excellent albergue with a good restaurant/bar. I followed their suggested stages the last time that I walked to Finisterre:

1st. Santiago-Negreira: 21 km

2nd. Negreira-Lake (Mazaricos): 25 km

3rd. Lake (Mazaricos)-EEC: 26 km

4th. Cee-Finisterre: 15 km

Albergue just past Sarria with pool - Casa Belgrado.

I think that you are talking about Casa Barbadelo, where I've stayed twice. I had really good pulpo at their restaurant. And way in the back of the restaurant they have a wonderful display of old sewing machines and typewriters.

 

[howardd5]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

One of my favorite towns is Portamarin on that stretch. I enjoyed finisterre very much certainly worth your time for the “end of the world”

 

[CWBuff]

I think that you are talking about Casa Barbadelo, where I've stayed twice. I had really good pulpo at their restaurant. And way in the back of the restaurant they have a wonderful display of old sewing machines and typewriters.

View attachment 128098

Yup you are right. Duly noted and original post corrected (of course I blame the autospell check/correct 😇)

 

[C clearly]

not plan too much time in Muxia, except for the church (the outside only) not much there last month
the inside burned down and is replaced by a poster .....

I assume you are referring to the Sanctuario Nuestra Sra. de la Barca. Here are photos of both the inside and the outside of the church on June 5, 2022. I spent several pleasant hours walking around Muxia that day.

 

[Jami Gray]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

Muxia was the highlight of my first Camino. I actually took a bus there, just to see what all the hype was about...ended up staying a whole week, and wasn't ready to leave. It is a great place to refresh and re-enter after a Camino. This is just my opinion and experience, but I think about it daily.

 

[CaminoMonica]

“Finisterre is where you end your Camino, Muxia is where you replenish your soul“. We are finishing Del Norte tomorrow and walking Finisterre to Muxia starting Tuesday.

 

[LDennis]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

My husband (age 56) and I (age 58) walked from Sarria to Compostela in mid May--excellent weather. We were rained on only once! Like most Pilgrims our first day on the Camino we were on a mission, walking with a brisk pace but by the next day we relaxed and began to take in the beauty of the surroundings. We found our rhythm and went with it.
When we encountered any large number of people we intentionally moved away from them as much as possible. We loved being unplugged. Being with nature and cows to be able to breath and not be inundated with the stresses of the world.
We did not stay at any albergues but there sure seemed to be a lot of them! My own parents walked this Camino 20 years ago and from what I've been told this wasn't the case then. I don't think you will miss anything. It's so well marked and everyone is friendly! We would love to go back and do another part of the Camino when time allows. Buen Camino!

 

[Lizremedy]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

It really is beautiful from Sarria to Santiago... beautiful valleys filled with rolling mist, moss covered rocks lining deep pathways covered in trees. Yes probably more people, but maybe dont stay in the main "stages" centres. Lots of beautiful churches, friendly people.

 

[Gypsea Moon]

“Finisterre is where you end your Camino, Muxia is where you replenish your soul“. We are finishing Del Norte tomorrow and walking Finisterre to Muxia starting Tuesday.

“Finisterre is where you end your Camino, Muxia is where you replenish your soul“
Love this & completely agree.

 

[AlwynWellington]

@Lhollo, Albergue Turístico Salceda is my suggestion. Less than 1 km below the path: in the morning you go west to pick up the path as it sweeps around Salceda.
Current info at https://www.albergueturisticosalceda.com/

It was quite new in October 2017. It has both private rooms and a hostel, where I slept. Each bunk had an alcove with a reading light - absolute luxury - and a washing service (you dry).

The restaurant was for all residents with a good menu to choose from.

Kia kaha, kia māia, kia manawanui (take care, be strong, patient and confident)

 

[CrimsonBear]

“Finisterre is where you end your Camino, Muxia is where you replenish your soul“
Love this & completely agree.

We agree with this sentiment also.

We got a lovely little room overlooking the harbor on Muxia and stayed a couple of nights to rest and let the thoughts of the Camino percolate.

It was a great place for us to end the Camino (and they also have a "0 km" marker out by the monument for the Prestige incident) and the church by where the story says that the body of St James was borne back to Spain.

 

[yesshesaid]

Yes,,, but the fire was in 2013,,,it was rebuilt by 2015,,, inside as well,,,I have been lucky enough to to get to mass there twice!! The last time was in May this year!!
Muxia in my humble opinion is a very special place!!

I am so relieved to hear the fire was that long ago; Muxia was perfect ending for me in in 2019 and the church with all its hanging ships was reminiscent of the fishing town of Stonington Maine I remember from my youth

 

[Aguapura]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

Muxia is lovely, please don't call it a "hole"! When I was there a few years ago it was a quiet, authentic Spanish coastal town, where you could go down to the harbor and chat with the fishermen bringing in their catch, or walk the paths up above town and discuss the kale crop with the older ladies. It wasn't famous or exciting and it wasn't full of tourists, pilgrims or other types. So if that is a "hole", whatever you mean by that, I guess it is, but I hope it stays a hole and doesn't become one more tourist destination on an increasingly popular Camino route

 

[Globetrottingpilgrim2010]

So if that is a "hole", whatever you mean by that, I guess it is, but I hope it stays a hole and doesn't become one more tourist destination on an increasingly popular Camino route

My sentiments exactly!!! Muxia is one of those very special places. My last visit was in 2016 and I hold wonderful memories to this very day.

 

[BrianLCrabtree]

My sentiments exactly!!! Muxia is one of those very special places. My last visit was in 2016 and I hold wonderful memories to this very day.

I was in Muxia 11-12 June of this year, arriving on a Saturday, and thought it seemed economically depressed. I enjoyed my brief visit as I did all along the Camino, but I noticed many empty businesses with for sale signs, few boats in the harbor, the restaurants had mostly the same menus, the supermarket was closed. It was a short visit, just an overnight, and a chilly, blustery, windy day. Maybe a longer stay would be better, but I thought Finisterre was more interesting.

 

[Globetrottingpilgrim2010]

I was in Muxia 11-12 June of this year, arriving on a Saturday, and thought it seemed economically depressed. I enjoyed my brief visit as I did all along the Camino, but I noticed many empty businesses with for sale signs, few boats in the harbor, the restaurants had mostly the same menus, the supermarket was closed. It was a short visit, just an overnight, and a chilly, blustery, windy day. Maybe a longer stay would be better, but I thought Finisterre was more interesting.

That’s very sad to hear. I guess the pandemic has really taken a toll on Muxia. The people there seemed to be resilient folk who could withstand the challenges life throws their way, so I do hope they can persevere through these times.

 

[Leaderene]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

The walk from Santiago to Muxia is beautiful and Muxia, for me, was much more beautiful and spiritual than finisterre. Take your time to divert to some of the amazing beaches.
Sarria to Santiago is very busy but there are some lovely paths and my guidance would be to accept it for what it is, a popular section, and 'be' in the moment, enjoying the scenery, the people you meet, the stories, the food etc. Mindset plays a big part and you often get what you expect, so expect good. Buen Camino.

 

[Aguapura]

Please tell me anything—anything!—about the section from just after Sarria to Santiago. And then on to Muxia and Finisterre.

I’m trying to plan to stay between main towns but really need help to know what not to miss, and whether there are any casa rurales/albergues with private rooms that are particularly special.

Thanks! 🙏

(Edit: to clarify, this is the continuation of my CF, not the beginning).

Sarria to Santiago is in Galicia, a special place different from the usual expectation of Spain (although Spain is very diverse) It is a place of forests, and mists, and witches!! Or so they say, it has retained parts of its Celtic past. It has horreos, and old livestock corridors where you walk below grade on ancient paths. It has distinct food, like Caldo Gallego, pimentos Padron, and Albarino wine (yes, other parts of Spain have that, too, but it is from Gallicia) They also have their own language, mostly like Spanish but also with Portuguese influence, you'll notice the signs use some Gallego. You don't have to go anywhere special to enjoy these special things, they will be all around you, which really makes it nice. Oh, yeah, might be more rain in Galicia and of course more people.

 

[Lhollo]

I stayed in a fantastic casa rural about 8k past Arzúa in a place called O Calle de Ferreira, called Casa do Hórreo, right on the Camino. Owned by hard working couple, recently renovated. Picture on Gronze is old. They now have a lovely welcoming bar attached. Great dinner and full breakfast starting at 7 am. Benefit was that the next morning I was well ahead of people starting from Arzúa - hardly saw anyone for first couple of hours.

Hotel Rural A Casa do Horreo - A Calle de Ferreiros | Hotel | Gronze.com

Información del Hotel Hotel Rural A Casa do Horreo, en A Calle de Ferreiros: precio, plazas, características, etc...

www.gronze.com

Thank you for this! I've booked us in there. Very straightforward on the phone, and it fits perfectly with our stages and distances.

 

[Lhollo]

Albergue Monte Aro is an excellent albergue with a good restaurant/bar. I followed their suggested stages the last time that I walked to Finisterre:

1st. Santiago-Negreira: 21 km

2nd. Negreira-Lake (Mazaricos): 25 km

3rd. Lake (Mazaricos)-EEC: 26 km

4th. Cee-Finisterre: 15 km



I think that you are talking about Casa Barbadelo, where I've stayed twice. I had really good pulpo at their restaurant. And way in the back of the restaurant they have a wonderful display of old sewing machines and typewriters.

View attachment 128098

Thank you for this! I'm currently working with those stages as a rough plan

 

[Lhollo]

Muxia is lovely, please don't call it a "hole"! When I was there a few years ago it was a quiet, authentic Spanish coastal town, where you could go down to the harbor and chat with the fishermen bringing in their catch, or walk the paths up above town and discuss the kale crop with the older ladies. It wasn't famous or exciting and it wasn't full of tourists, pilgrims or other types. So if that is a "hole", whatever you mean by that, I guess it is, but I hope it stays a hole and doesn't become one more tourist destination on an increasingly popular Camino route

Just to clarify—because perhaps the Englishness, or phrase, or just everything generally—doesn't come across to everyone online as it's intended… to me, the 'hole' I referred to in the subject line, was a lack of information about 'that bit' of the Way! Having not been there, I presume it's a lovely place. However, until this thread, the sections between Muxia and Santiago de Compostela were a massive hole in my mental map and awareness. I couldn't visualise it, nor see how best to prioritise this or that. Thankfully, much of that has now been filled in, thanks to the lovely people here!

 

[malingerer]

I have walked to Negreira, Olveiroa, San Roque, and Finisterre several times often in winter. Perhaps you might find these pictures/ notes from my December 2011 blog to be helpful for your planning. Included are hot links to the places I stayed and ate. ...As always arriving in Finisterre was unforgetable. Rain and tears were pouring down when later I finally reached kilometer 0 at the old iron cross by the famous lighthouse.

FINSISTERRE is very much a place of my heart! I hope to be there this September. Am hoping the family that run the boat for the sunset cruise are still in operation. Not to be missed. Take care and buen Camino

Samarkand.

 

[RJM]

Get guidebooks for both. Answers everything.

 

[malingerer]

Get guidebooks for both. Answers everything.

no they don't Some things you have to find for yourself thank god, otherwise my favourite places would be over run!

Samarkand

 

[RJM]

no they don't Some things you have to find for yourself thank god, otherwise my favourite places would be over run!

Samarkand

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