What is your most beautiful / favourite church on the CF?

[markmcilroy]

Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.

As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?

thanks,
Mark.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Eunate hands down. A small detour before Puente La Reina.

The the small church on the way out of Melide calle Santa Maria. Ask for a guide tour.

 

[mspath]

One of my favorites 7 km west of Leon in
La Virgen del Camino is an extraordinary mid-20th century church. The town is named for a famous 15th century figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk, Francisco Coello, a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier. Located directly on the Camino Frances at Av Astorga, 87, in the midst of chaotic suburb the church is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Be sure to enter it; the calm interior is splendidly lit with deep chrome yellow glass.

 

[Bala]

I've only walked as far as Burgos (so far), but Church of the Assumption in Navarette, hands down. (Although I'll always be partial to Burgos Cathedral.) The retablo is stunning. The photo I took has been the picture on my lock screen ever since. That was 2 1/2 years ago. It still brings me peace and joy to look at it.

 

[kdespot]

After much opulence, I really appreciated being back in the mountains and the simplicity of the villages and churches as we drew closer to Galicia. Like Mark, one of my favorites, too, was in Rabanal, where the nave just felt so sacred... so close to (God).

 

[Mike Savage]

I've only walked as far as Burgos (so far), but Church of the Assumption in Navarette, hands down. (Although I'll always be partial to Burgos Cathedral.) The retablo is stunning. The photo I took has been the picture on my lock screen ever since. That was 2 1/2 years ago. It still brings me peace and joy to look at it.

This was my choice too. So beautiful inside. I really thought it was beautiful and then someone turned on the lights. Oh my!

 

[elleley]

Eunate hands down. A small detour before Puente La Reina.

The the small church on the way out of Melide calle Santa Maria. Ask for a guide tour.

Hola!
Second that for the Camino Frances. I felt incredible power walking around that little church on that stone surrounding the church (take your shoes and socks off!!)
However, coming into Santiago on the Sanabres from the south, I discovered the Church of Santa María a Real do Sar, a beautiful 12th century church, with an incredible history. Worth the visit if you have the time in SdC.
Ultriea!
elle

 

[Anamya]

Mine were two completely different: the Burgos cathedral was just too impressive not to love. The other one was the small stone church in Cebreiro - after walking uphill, a stop for reflection in that place, built in year 900, brought tears to my eyes.

 

[SabsP]

Torres del Rio

https://vialucispress.wordpress.com...io-navarra-a-guest-post-by-jong-soung-kimm-3/

 

[SYates]

The church in Grañón, the cathedral in León, San Martin in Fromista ....

Buen Camino, SY

 

[JMac56]

Hi Mark,
I love things that are a bit broken or distressed, so the Church in the centre of Rabanal del Camino is also a personal favourite of mine. (Not on the CF of course, but a new favourite discovered this April is the Igreja de São Domingos in Lisboa which retains many of the scars of the fire that devastated it in 1959.) Of course none of this detracts from the special nature of the Catedral in SdC. Despite all the noisy tourists I still find it a wondrous place. If you are keen to attend a service there then the 10am English Mass is lovely. If you are really fortunate, Father Juan Carlos Angulo from Venezuela could be officiating. Buen Camino.
View media item 4048

 

[Theatregal]

Hermitage of San Miguel Arcángel near Villatuerta. It may not be the most beautiful (though in my eyes it has great beauty) but it's setting in an olive grove, it's history, age and the near abandoned feeling of it make it very special. It's remained one of the most memorable churches for me.

 

[HedaP]

I too enjoyed lighting yet another candle on the camino in the church in Rabanal del Camino but for me the highlight was attending mass with locals and fellow pilgrims in the wonderful church at Navarette during semana santa.
And can I put in another vote, this one for the chapel at the pilgrim office in Santiago. I love the pilgrim madonna and child.

 

[Kanga]

Gosh, that's a hard one.

For retablos and altarpieces - Santa Maria la Blanca at Villalcázar de Sirga and La Asuncion in Navarrete. Santa Maria in Los Arcos is also fabulous. In each, spend the money and turn on the lights - you will be amazed.

For external beauty and architectural form - Eunate or San Martin or Torres del Rio....

For total over-the-top-glam, would take a lifetime to see it all - Burgos Cathedral.

For drop-to-your-knees and the presence of other-worlds - Leon Cathedral. The windows.

I think Leon has to be my favourite. But it is sentimental.

 

[NoQ]

So many to choose from, so any of these 4 for me...

Iglesia de Santiago el Real in Logrono
Iglesia de Santiago - Villadangos
San Andres in Villamayor de Monjardin
Santa Maria del Manzano

 

[jennysa]

Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.

As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?

thanks,
Mark.

The small 13th century church at Zabaldika, St Stephens, is beautiful in its simplicity and well worth the short detour to get to it. The sisters of the Sacred Heart look after it and it is open in the mornings from 8 to 1 pm and then in the evenings at 6.00 pm. Many visitors notice that is has an unique energy. For those staying in the attached albergue (the best on the Camino in my opinion ), there is a Benediction in the choir of the church in the evening. Pilgrims are encouraged to go up to the bell tower to ring the bell, which is the oldest in Navarre, and to send their prayers out into the valley. The grounds are very peaceful and inviting with tables and chairs so that you can stop and have your lunch or snacks in the shade. From the church you do not need to retrace your steps and go down the hill, as you connect with the Camino path again and dont need to climb up the hill again. I worked at the albergue in June, and loved being in the Church every day and seeing the pilgrims relaxing in the garden.

 

[Dylan Price]

Have to say that the church on Nevarette was very beautiful. The golden backdrop behind the alter covered on golden bunches of grapes. Made all the more amazing by the fact we got to be in the procession of the Madonna.

Also loved the simplicity of the Romanesk church in Torres del Rio.

 

[Dylan Price]

The small 13th century church at Zabaldika, St Stephens, is beautiful in its simplicity and well worth the short detour to get to it. The sisters of the Sacred Heart look after it and it is open in the mornings from 8 to 1 pm and then in the evenings at 6.00 pm. Many visitors notice that is has an unique energy. For those staying in the attached albergue (the best on the Camino in my opinion ), there is a Benediction in the choir of the church in the evening. Pilgrims are encouraged to go up to the bell tower to ring the bell, which is the oldest in Navarre, and to send their prayers out into the valley. The grounds are very peaceful and inviting with tables and chairs so that you can stop and have your lunch or snacks in the shade. From the church you do not need to retrace your steps and go down the hill, as you connect with the Camino path again and dont need to climb up the hill again. I worked at the albergue in June, and loved being in the Church every day and seeing the pilgrims relaxing in the garden.

Yes this was great and stay there if you can. Had one of our most spiritual stays there and a great communal dinner too.

 

[jennysa]

It was such a privilege working there Dylan. The Sisters were wonderful, and the pilgrims we looked after were exceptional. I can almost remember every single one who stayed there - no bars around, no beers so most who stayed with us made a special effort to get there. I am so glad you also had a great experience there.

Yes this was great and stay there if you can. Had one of our most spiritual stays there and a great communal dinner too.

rvili

 

[nycwalking]

Burgos Cathedral. Capilla on albergue grounds in Ponferrada. SdC Cathedral. Little bitty parish church just before lighthouse in Fisterra. And, more and more and more.

 

[Rick of Rick and Peg]

Of the three that came to mind instantly two have already been mentioned: La Virgen del Camino and the Church of the Assumption in Navarette. These made their biggest impression on me by being suprises. My third is the Basílica de San Isidoro in León, specifically the Royal Pantheon there accessed through the museum. The Royal Pantheon has been called the "Sistine Chapel of Romanesque art." We got to the museum just prior to its closing but I talked Peg into visiting it anyway. The possibility exists that if we got there at the museum's opening Peg would have had to come pick me at the closing. I was standing there mesmerised.

In general I liked the small places and the Romanesque ones. Syates mentioned San Martin in Fromista, one I liked. Attached to the cathedral in Santiago is a Romanesque chapel that used to be its own church, La Capilla la Corticella. It is in the north-east corner.

 

[TaijiPilgrim]

Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.

As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?

thanks,
Mark.

One church not mentioned is at Vilar de Donas - a ways off the Camino Frances between Ligonde and Palais de Reis. What amazed me was being up close to artifacts and frescoes

 

[RENSHAW]

Tores del Rio , Granon , The tiny church on the bridge at Santa Domingo and what about my favourite , the Iglesia del Crucifjo next to the Los Paradoros Albergue in Puenta La Reina.

 

[Mikel Olivares]

San Martín in Frómista (century XI). It is the best example of "Románico"

 

[Deleted member 56069]

The Cathedral in Leon. When the late afternoon sun hits all that stained glass, out of this world.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

And what about the ruins. San Anton and the ones in Cirauiqui and San Pedro in Viana. I find there is something very special about these resilient walls who have quite adifferent story to tell.

Does any know the same of the ruins as you leave Cirauiqui? It's been 10 years since I was there, but I think that is where I rememberthem being.

See, it's for this type of learning, discovery and understanding of such places that I would consider a guided Camino tour, but just for the cultural/historical content. I think it would be a wonder layer to add, especially after one has walked once alone.

What a fun thread.

 

[SabsP]

The interior of the church in Vega de Valcarce....

 

[julia-t]

One that's not been mentioned, yet I thought was stunning in its simplicity and wonderful scallop shell retable is the little church up the hill in O Pedrouzo.

 

[WGroleau]

I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.

As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?

I agree with simple. Villamayor de Monjardín, for example. Twelve kilometers further in Los Arcos, it is so gaudy that it's depressing and tacky.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Hermitage of San Miguel Arcángel near Villatuerta. It may not be the most beautiful (though in my eyes it has great beauty) but it's setting in an olive grove, it's history, age and the near abandoned feeling of it make it very special. It's remained one of the most memorable churches for me.

I loved this church also, located in the olive groves just off trail with its semi-abandoned feeling. It provided some very special moments of awe and reflection.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

I enjoyed moments in many small churches along the way, but the grandeur of the Burgos cathedral with its brightness, awesome domes that reminded me of snowflakes when looking upward and the amazing ironwork was all very impressive. I also loved the cathedral in Leon for its abundance of gorgeous stained glass windows. I was blown away when during my tour it was mentioned that they were all removed piece by piece, stored in boxes for 50 years, then reassembled after the architectural problems were solved... Amazing what man can do!

 

[Mike Savage]

The small 13th century church at Zabaldika, St Stephens, is beautiful in its simplicity and well worth the short detour to get to it. . . .

Of all the churches I have been to on my Caminos this one touched me the most. I could feel the presence of God and just broke down in uncontrollable tears of joy.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I also loved the cathedral in Leon for its abundance of gorgeous stained glass windows. I was blown away when during my tour it was mentioned that they were all removed piece by piece, stored in boxes for 50 years, then reassembled after the architectural problems were solved... Amazing what man can do!

Best audio-guide ever!

 

[Saint Mike II]

If the people at Eunate would have more friendly opening hours I might be able to include it in my list.
But here are mine:
1) Rabanal - that this church is still standing is a tribute to its builders and probably more importantly the people who resurrected it;
2) the cathedrals of Leon & Burgos are significant monuments to their builders - but unfortunately (for me) a little impersonal;
3) Santiago - our destination goal is very high on the list.
But the winner (for me) is Los Arcos - Iglesia de Santa Maria de los Arcos. I never ceased to be amazed at the backdrop to the altar. I doubt we would have the artisans who today could recreate it.

 

[Priscilla NC]

Torres del Rio

Yes, Torres del Rio -- I walked in on a quiet Saturday morning. A village woman was sitting at a desk with the sello and asking for 1€. There was only one other woman in there, who came over to ask me, in French and then in English, if I sang. I am often flat/off key, so I shook my head no.

She began singing Dona Nobis Pacem in a lovely, clear voice. The acoustics in that plain church made it sound heavenly. Then the old woman joined in, and how could I not, even with being off key?? Others walked in then, and it was a magical few moments indeed.

I'll never forget that church or that experience.

 

[Priscilla NC]

A note on the cathedrals: The Burgos Cathedral was amazing, but after about a half an hour I was on sensory overload. It was like my cells could not take any more. It took me another good half hour to get out of that place, and I had to take a nap afterwards (I am *so* not a nap person).

I loved the Cathedral in Leon. The grandeur of the Gothic architecture and the beauty of the stained glass as the sun streamed in I found much more holy.

And I have to wonder about the churches in so many villages that were locked and inaccessible-- what treasures might be hidden behind those locked doors?

 

[Kanga]

I mentioned it in my list, but want to give it a "bump" - so more people stop and look - it is one church that people seem to walk by and it is simply wonderful - Santa Maria la Blanca at Villalcázar de Sirga.

The retablo is beautiful, but so too are many other elements. Plus there is a good cafe across the street if you want to dip in and out!

 

[eviemonkey]

Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Río, near Villalcázar de Sirga on the longer approach trail into Carrión de los Condes.

I walked pretty much alone on the back road after Frómista, which suited my mood at the time. I could see the wave of pilgrims on the other side of the river following the main road and was glad of the solitude. News from home wasn't great, a good friend had become diagnosed with cancer. Although not a overtly religious person, I was glad to spend ten to fifteen minutes in the Hermitage of our Lady of the River which was re-built in the 18th century, and although undoubtedly lacking the splendour of other more grander churches, it was everything I needed at the time.

That was twelve months ago. My friend received the all clear two weeks ago.

 

[ess1113]

Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.

As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?

thanks,
Mark.

May not be the most beautiful but mass and vespers at Rabanal prior to Cruz Ferro was emotional and beautiful. Mass and confessions set me up for the arrival into Cruz Ferro.

 

[RENSHAW]

Hey! we forgot this one?

 

[markmcilroy]

View attachment 35056
Hey! we forgot this one?

Exactly Renshaw, how could we forget that one......maybe a slight hint is needed Renshaw to remind the pilgrims that had sweat in their eyes at the time they walked past it?

 

[RENSHAW]

And we forgot this ........

 

[MaireK]

"The the small church on the way out of Melide calle Santa Maria. Ask for a guide tour."

Agree 100%. The guide that was there on my visit was so enthusiastic & knowledgeable and had a 'cúpla focal' in Irish as well. The church is a little gem.

 

[rector]

Some really great suggestions here and for all sorts of different reasons and all have their own validity, but if you use a sense of the "other" a spiritual awareness, what is called in Ireland "a near place" as a guide, then I would say a little chapel tucked in at the back of Pamplona Cathedral. Plain, white, ancient, pre-dating the cathedral, thats what did it for me, second place Torres del Rio, I felt that I was back in Jerusalem.

 

[markmcilroy]

View attachment 35058
And we forgot this ........

Ok...no idea about this one Renshaw, please enlighten.

 

[Saint Mike II]

A note on the cathedrals: The Burgos Cathedral was amazing, but after about a half an hour I was on sensory overload. It was like my cells could not take any more. It took me another good half hour to get out of that place, and I had to take a nap afterwards (I am *so* not a nap person).

I loved the Cathedral in Leon. The grandeur of the Gothic architecture and the beauty of the stained glass as the sun streamed in I found much more holy.

And I have to wonder about the churches in so many villages that were locked and inaccessible-- what treasures might be hidden behind those locked doors?

Priscilla, my sentiments exactly. In 2015 I spent over 4 hours in Burgos Cathedral, this time (2017) it was at most 45 mins - I just felt so uncomfortable (too many people). In Leon - I appreciate the amount of light that comes in from the south side. If I lived in Leon I would feel comfortable having it as my local parish church.
Cheers

 

[RENSHAW]

Tosantos - just after Belorado - church honed out of a cliff face - very special.

 

[elleley]

Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.

As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?

thanks,
Mark.

Forgot one of my favorites...La Divina Pastora chapel in Burgos. Waited there to enter the albergue above it for over an hour and found it one of the most spiritual experiences on the Camino. Strong divine feminine energy in the chapel and kind hospitalera upstairs.
Buen camino!
ultreia!
elle

 

[hal_cpt]

Both of my favourites have been mentioned, but they are -- for completely different but quite obvious reasons -- the cathedral in Leon, and the little old church in Rabanal, where I made confession before the final stretch.

I was certainly very impressed by the cathedral in Burgos, but found it somewhat overbearing and bit too celebratory of some ... complex and violent historical moments that I think call for a more subtle view.

 

[Dennis Ferguson]

Last year was my first CF. I did my best to go inside as many churches as possible, as we know unfortunately some are locked. I still remember the absolute beauty in the "rawness and simplicity" of the church at Rabanal.

As I'm doing it again in a few weeks I'd be interested to know what is your favourite church on the pathway?

thanks,
Mark.

I agree with you about the rawness and simplicity of the little church at Rabanal dell Camino. The brothers who are renovating it offer a blessing for pilgrims for their onward journey. I was lucky enough to have had mass there, offered by an American priest who was a fellow peregrino, that along with the Gregorian Chants of the Brothers made for a powerful spirit filled visit.

 

[leichecerca]

I was amazed at the variety of experiences in the churches along the CF. Sometimes the simplest building would overwhelm me with emotion, while the grand cathedrals in Burgos and Leon were architecturally stunning but often left me feeling cold, and sometimes sad at the excess (WWJD?). I seemed to find more spiritual "juice" in some of the smaller, unassuming chapels. (I often wondered if this had more to do with my state of mind/heart than the buildings themselves...)

One church definitely stands out. In Hontanas on the Thursday before Easter, I popped into the Iglesia de la Concepcion Inmaculada (just before Castrojeriz on the CF), just to have a look. The church building was nice enough but fairly unremarkable, in fact the altar was undergoing renovation and had painted plywood facades of its former/future glory. But the vibe inside that church was ethereal. I was immediately drawn to a corner in the back where a big sand tray with candles was set up, surrounded by cushions on the floor and bibles in 7 or 8 different languages. Never seen anything like that in a Catholic church -- so much more inviting than the hard regimented wooden pews. I immediately dug into my pocket for coins, lit some candles and then sank onto the cushions ... sat there the longest time soaking up the lovely vibe ... finally got to meditate (which seemed impossible in the hostels). At one point, a kind priest gently interrupted and asked if he could give me a cross on a cord that had been blessed for Holy Week... he quietly placed it around my neck. It was such a kind and unexpected gesture, I was just overwhelmed & could not stop the flood of tears that came up.

It turned out the 12:30 Mass was about to begin, and unlike most churches in Spain, this one had Mass pamphlets in several languages so non-Spanish speakers could follow along. As a lapsed Catholic, I have my "issues" with the sometimes boring tedium of the Mass, but this time the ancient familiar words seemed to go directly into my heart. This priest, in particular, had such a warm presence and his recitation of the Mass was more soulful than most. I went to several more Masses along the Camino, but none of them touched my heart the way that Mass in that church did. I would not normally choose to wear a cross, but I wore that one for the rest of my journey and most definitely felt blessed every step of the way.

I believe some places have a much stronger spiritual energy than others. And I suspect this is also true of people.

 

[annakappa]

Eunate.
And then Rabanal. I love the simplicity of these Romanic Churches. Many years ago, maybe 2008 or 2009, there were excavations going on in the church of Rabanal and most of the floor had been dug up, exposing all sorts of interesting things below.! Mass was held in the back part of the, already small church, so everybody was cramped together.
Entering the Cathedral of Santiago is always a very special moment for me. I feel I have come home!

 

[Sparrow in Texas]

All of the churches are stunning and impart a profound impression, but sometimes have an element of sensory overload.

It was evening when I entered the cathedral in Burgos, the interior was quite dim. Then I looked up and saw the evening sun shining in the high windows - like the light of heaven!

The church at Rabanal is special, the simple physical beauty and the magnficent beauty of the chant.

 

[markmcilroy]

I was amazed at the variety of experiences in the churches along the CF. Sometimes the simplest building would overwhelm me with emotion, while the grand cathedrals in Burgos and Leon were architecturally stunning but often left me feeling cold, and sometimes sad at the excess (WWJD?). I seemed to find more spiritual "juice" in some of the smaller, unassuming chapels. (I often wondered if this had more to do with my state of mind/heart than the buildings themselves...)

One church definitely stands out. In Hontanas on the Thursday before Easter, I popped into the Iglesia de la Concepcion Inmaculada (just before Castrojeriz on the CF), just to have a look. The church building was nice enough but fairly unremarkable, in fact the altar was undergoing renovation and had painted plywood facades of its former/future glory. But the vibe inside that church was ethereal. I was immediately drawn to a corner in the back where a big sand tray with candles was set up, surrounded by cushions on the floor and bibles in 7 or 8 different languages. Never seen anything like that in a Catholic church -- so much more inviting than the hard regimented wooden pews. I immediately dug into my pocket for coins, lit some candles and then sank onto the cushions ... sat there the longest time soaking up the lovely vibe ... finally got to meditate (which seemed impossible in the hostels). At one point, a kind priest gently interrupted and asked if he could give me a cross on a cord that had been blessed for Holy Week... he quietly placed it around my neck. It was such a kind and unexpected gesture, I was just overwhelmed & could not stop the flood of tears that came up.

It turned out the 12:30 Mass was about to begin, and unlike most churches in Spain, this one had Mass pamphlets in several languages so non-Spanish speakers could follow along. As a lapsed Catholic, I have my "issues" with the sometimes boring tedium of the Mass, but this time the ancient familiar words seemed to go directly into my heart. This priest, in particular, had such a warm presence and his recitation of the Mass was more soulful than most. I went to several more Masses along the Camino, but none of them touched my heart the way that Mass in that church did. I would not normally choose to wear a cross, but I wore that one for the rest of my journey and most definitely felt blessed every step of the way.

I believe some places have a much stronger spiritual energy than others. And I suspect this is also true of people.

Thank you, I have added to the list on Day 14.

 

[markmcilroy]

Eunate.
And then Rabanal. I love the simplicity of these Romanic Churches. Many years ago, maybe 2008 or 2009, there were excavations going on in the church of Rabanal and most of the floor had been dug up, exposing all sorts of interesting things below.! Mass was held in the back part of the, already small church, so everybody was cramped together.
Entering the Cathedral of Santiago is always a very special moment for me. I feel I have come home!

Thank you, many respondents have mentioned Eunate as their favourite.

 

[HedaP]

I was amazed at the variety of experiences in the churches along the CF. Sometimes the simplest building would overwhelm me with emotion, while the grand cathedrals in Burgos and Leon were architecturally stunning but often left me feeling cold, and sometimes sad at the excess (WWJD?). I seemed to find more spiritual "juice" in some of the smaller, unassuming chapels. (I often wondered if this had more to do with my state of mind/heart than the buildings themselves...)

One church definitely stands out. In Hontanas on the Thursday before Easter, I popped into the Iglesia de la Concepcion Inmaculada (just before Castrojeriz on the CF), just to have a look. The church building was nice enough but fairly unremarkable, in fact the altar was undergoing renovation and had painted plywood facades of its former/future glory. But the vibe inside that church was ethereal. I was immediately drawn to a corner in the back where a big sand tray with candles was set up, surrounded by cushions on the floor and bibles in 7 or 8 different languages. Never seen anything like that in a Catholic church -- so much more inviting than the hard regimented wooden pews. I immediately dug into my pocket for coins, lit some candles and then sank onto the cushions ... sat there the longest time soaking up the lovely vibe ... finally got to meditate (which seemed impossible in the hostels). At one point, a kind priest gently interrupted and asked if he could give me a cross on a cord that had been blessed for Holy Week... he quietly placed it around my neck. It was such a kind and unexpected gesture, I was just overwhelmed & could not stop the flood of tears that came up.

It turned out the 12:30 Mass was about to begin, and unlike most churches in Spain, this one had Mass pamphlets in several languages so non-Spanish speakers could follow along. As a lapsed Catholic, I have my "issues" with the sometimes boring tedium of the Mass, but this time the ancient familiar words seemed to go directly into my heart. This priest, in particular, had such a warm presence and his recitation of the Mass was more soulful than most. I went to several more Masses along the Camino, but none of them touched my heart the way that Mass in that church did. I would not normally choose to wear a cross, but I wore that one for the rest of my journey and most definitely felt blessed every step of the way.

I believe some places have a much stronger spiritual energy than others. And I suspect this is also true of people.

I agree. Lovely little church. I was lucky enough to stay in Hontanas on a Sunday just after Easter. A pilgrim mass was offered at 6 pm with some really good singing from the local women. At the end of the mass the pilgrims were called forward, each of us was blessed one by one and given a cross on a string. Wonderful experience.
PS We must have been walking within a few days of each other.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Of all the churches I have been to on my Caminos this one touched me the most. I could feel the presence of God and just broke down in uncontrollable tears of joy.

Moved me to tears too, Mike.

 

[RENSHAW]

The answer to the resistance of the peace sign by Christians - turn the cross upside down.
Here is a photo of the Crucifix in the church in Puenta La Reina.

 

[David Tallan]

As others have pointed out, Eunate was very special. San Martin in Fromista is one of my very favourite Romanesque churches. Leon was my favourite Gothic cathedral. The stained glass! And the cathedral in Santiago was a worthy destination - a Romanesque church with the size and proportions of a Gothic cathedral with a baroque facade. It sort of United the architectural history of the Camino in one building.

 

[Laluna]

I too loved the church in Rabanal de Camino. It just felt so old and sacred. At the end of the first day on the Camino I went to the mass there and received the pilgrim's blessing. Also loved the Vespers/Gregorian chanting, very special. I also had a very nice moment at the church on O' Cebreiro. I finally reached the peak and it was surrounded by mist. I walked into the church to sit down for a break and it was very dark inside except for a few lit candles, and had it all to myself for several very peaceful moments of silence and reflection. Quite magical!

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

The answer to the resistance of the peace sign by Christians - turn the cross upside down.
Here is a photo of the Crucifix in the church in Puenta La Reina. View attachment 35622

My walking partner at the time from Canada started singing when we went inside .
We where with 3 people inside, it sounded so beautyfull in there.
Almost cried my eyes out so emotionally was it.
This was for me the absolute number one.

Wish you all well , Peter.

 

[Theatregal]

My walking partner at the time from Canada started singing when we went inside .
We where with 3 people inside, it sounded so beautyfull in there.
Almost cried my eyes out so emotionally was it.
This was for me the absolute number one.

Wish you all well , Peter.

I had a similar experience in Belorado. I was alone in the church sitting in a quiet corner, enjoying the quiet and the coolness. I heard someone come in - they wouldn't have seen me, sitting behind a pillar. After a few moments, a beautiful clear voice started to sing Ave Maria. She finished and left. It was exquisite.

 

[tjz]

Hermitage of San Miguel Arcángel near Villatuerta. It may not be the most beautiful (though in my eyes it has great beauty) but it's setting in an olive grove, it's history, age and the near abandoned feeling of it make it very special. It's remained one of the most memorable churches for me.

I agree. I have so much enjoyed the great cathedrals in Pamplona, Burgos, and Astorga, but it was this tiny little church on the way to Estella where I've had the most moving experience of my Camino so far. It is wonderful.

 

[rappahannock_rev]

Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Río, near Villalcázar de Sirga on the longer approach trail into Carrión de los Condes.

I walked pretty much alone on the back road after Frómista, which suited my mood at the time. I could see the wave of pilgrims on the other side of the river following the main road and was glad of the solitude. News from home wasn't great, a good friend had become diagnosed with cancer. Although not a overtly religious person, I was glad to spend ten to fifteen minutes in the Hermitage of our Lady of the River which was re-built in the 18th century, and although undoubtedly lacking the splendour of other more grander churches, it was everything I needed at the time.

That was twelve months ago. My friend received the all clear two weeks ago.

Yes! The Ermita de N.S. del Rio! Another of my absolute favorites! I remember being unusually able to sit still there, be still there (no easy task for me!), and give thanks to God for my small part in His beautiful creation. Happy memory!

At home I'm the rector of a small, Southern, American, country church -- and very happy to be no more than the rector of a small, Southern, American, country church. I'm properly respectful of bishops and cathedrals, to be sure, but not always comfortable in dealing with them. ("May God bless and keep the bishop -- far away from me!") I can and do admire the magnificent works of art that are the great cathedrals of Spain -- but it is in small, rural, places like the Ermita de N.S. del Rio that I feel most tangibly the presence and the power of the Holy Ghost.

If you're walking the CF with anything approaching a conventional spiritual motivation, you simply must take time to sip the wine, smell the flowers, and sit still in the small and humble holy places.