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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

What you need to know before you leave to hike the Chemin d'Arles.

cdnwine

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Porto to Santiago in early Feb 2015
Arles to La Salvetat sur Agou Sept/Oct 2018
I just returned from hiking sections of the via Tolosana, or chemin d’Arles and would like to offer advice to future hikers. First of all this trail is a GR and not necessarily a camino. Be prepared to do 20 plus kilometres per day with no place to sit except for the ground. Don’t expect any place for water or food once you leave in the morning and don’t expect that once you arrive at your destination that restaurants are open and that grocery stores are opened. The reality is that small villages in France are having difficulties surviving.
Accommodations are sometimes hard to come by and are not always acceptable.
A cell phone is a necessity because a lot of the gites are not manned by people but you must phone to obtain a code to enter. This also means that you don’t get a stamp on your passport.
I would recommend that you carry food to last you at least 2 days. Many places are closed on Sundays and/or Mondays and you might want to opt for a place with a demi pension on those days.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
We walked this in May 2017 and much of what you say is true. It’s a beautiful walk. Perhaps in high summer there are more facilities, but villages are far apart and you need to be prepared! Weekends can mean nothing is open, and you do need to plan accommodations at least a couple days ahead.

As two senior Americans, we did fine, but it wasn’t easy or anything like the Portuguese or Frances.
 
I always try and warn people against following the waymarks on this route too religiously ...

You're quite right that it has, for the most part, been established as a GR, not as the Way of Saint James.

The most terrible thing, from a pilgrim's perspective, is that the waymarked route VERY frequently deviates around the historic villages that ANY normally motivated Pilgrim would consider as being essential to their Camino. It is a scandal.

But if you ignore what the waymarks and your guide book might suggest, and instead simply follow your gut, it's a fantastically beautiful and rewarding section of the Camino !!!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Well, it sounds like one Camino to tick off any bucket list I have before even considering or attempting it...I'm a little adventurous, but all the above observations have scared me off and I'm glad! Thank you all for the warnings, seriously!
 
Well, it sounds like one Camino to tick off any bucket list I have before even considering or attempting it...I'm a little adventurous, but all the above observations have scared me off and I'm glad! Thank you all for the warnings, seriously!

No, that's not right -- it's a very beautiful route, please don't understand these caveats otherwise !!!

You do need a deal more of independence than elsewhere, but the closer you get on your Way to SJPP is the closer you'll be to your own Will.
 
Jabbapapa, can you name a few places not on the official route that should be. I’d like to know what we missed, maybe we can see those places someday.
 
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Well, it sounds like one Camino to tick off any bucket list I have before even considering or attempting it...I'm a little adventurous, but all the above observations have scared me off and I'm glad! Thank you all for the warnings, seriously!
I don't want to scare people, I just want them to be prepared so that they can have a wonderful experience. I wish I had known this before attempting this trail.
 
Jabbapapa, can you name a few places not on the official route that should be. I’d like to know what we missed, maybe we can see those places someday.

Not really, there are just some pointless detours on the GR up and down mountains that are usefully avoided by following small, quicker roads instead.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I just returned from hiking sections of the via Tolosana, or chemin d’Arles and would like to offer advice to future hikers. First of all this trail is a GR and not necessarily a camino. Be prepared to do 20 plus kilometres per day with no place to sit except for the ground. Don’t expect any place for water or food once you leave in the morning and don’t expect that once you arrive at your destination that restaurants are open and that grocery stores are opened. The reality is that small villages in France are having difficulties surviving.
Accommodations are sometimes hard to come by and are not always acceptable.
A cell phone is a necessity because a lot of the gites are not manned by people but you must phone to obtain a code to enter. This also means that you don’t get a stamp on your passport.
I would recommend that you carry food to last you at least 2 days. Many places are closed on Sundays and/or Mondays and you might want to opt for a place with a demi pension on those days.
I walked solo last May from Oloron til Puenta la Reina in mostly heavy rain! I can confirm your experience. Even in the evening one could not always find another pilgim for a chat. To my feeling it is a bit sad as the authorities want do a lot to promote this Camino.
 
Well, it sounds like one Camino to tick off any bucket list I have before even considering or attempting it...I'm a little adventurous, but all the above observations have scared me off and I'm glad! Thank you all for the warnings, seriously!
I've been walking Camino routes almost every year since 2001, and the route from Arles is my favorite of all, because of its great variety of scenery, and the beautiful cities encountered. It does require planning several days ahead, and reserving the next nights lodging. The statements about the France GR routes is true. They do frequently avoid interesting villages in order to climb to some out of the way place of significance.

However, most GRs have an accompanying guidebook called a TopoGuide. The Arles route has 3. These guides are in french, and if you read french, quite informative. I don't read french that well, but take the guides because of their excellent 1;50,000 topo maps. Using these maps, it is quite easy to see where the GR makes a meaningless deviation, and where you can easily just walk down the road thru the village and rejoin the GR again. You do need one of the more pilgrim oriented guides to arrange for accommodations. I haven't updated our Arles web page for quite a while, but I do list the guide books down towards the bottom of the page backpack45.com/arles.html
 
Thank you, @backpack45, for some added info. I did walk the Le Puy route last June as far as Auvillar and loved it, but the Arles camino still sounds more intimidating to me. I/we did get lost a couple of times as often the GR stripes are on both sides of the trees since you can walk in either direction...Add in the yellow stripes here and there, and well, that sometimes became a bit of a problem! Lol.
 
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Thank you, @backpack45, for some added info. I did walk the Le Puy route last June as far as Auvillar and loved it, but the Arles camino still sounds more intimidating to me. I/we did get lost a couple of times as often the GR stripes are on both sides of the trees since you can walk in either direction...Add in the yellow stripes here and there, and well, that sometimes became a bit of a problem! Lol.
This is my first time joining a discussion on this forum I hope I’m doing it right. I walked this route a few years ago at the age of 70 and can confirm That it requires more skills than the Camino Francis. I speak no French and carried no phone so I found that the option of sleeping rough was essential and that the French I G in maps were wonderful. These maps can be downloaded electronically for about €25 a year and I used them both for finding the route and for planning alternative routes that were more interesting or efficient. The deserted small villages were a bit spooky and even water was hard to find until I discovered that the cemeteries always had an unlocked tap. Being flexible with the route worked well for me. I started with the Arles switched to the towpath of the canal do midi then dropped south to the Piemonte. Any town that had a visitor center seem to have an English speaker with information on the Camino. The lodging that I manage to find on the in frequently traveled Camino was always a pleasant and unique experience ranging from being the guest of the vocal clergyman to being a celebrity at Lourds where they gave me dinner and a private room and refused to let me pay.
I just returned from hiking sections of the via Tolosana, or chemin d’Arles and would like to offer advice to future hikers. First of all this trail is a GR and not necessarily a camino. Be prepared to do 20 plus kilometres per day with no place to sit except for the ground. Don’t expect any place for water or food once you leave in the morning and don’t expect that once you arrive at your destination that restaurants are open and that grocery stores are opened. The reality is that small villages in France are having difficulties surviving.
Accommodations are sometimes hard to come by and are not always acceptable.
A cell phone is a necessity because a lot of the gites are not manned by people but you must phone to obtain a code to enter. This also means that you don’t get a stamp on your passport.
I would recommend that you carry food to last you at least 2 days. Many places are closed on Sundays and/or Mondays and you might want to opt for a place with a demi pension on those days.

I walked the Arles route, switched to following the tow path of the Canal de Midi, and then dropped south to the Chemin Pimont in May 2013 and although I walked alone with no French and no phone and was 70 years old, I found it doable and very worthwhile. The comments about this route are accurate don’t be too easily discouraged! It’s worth the effort. The things I found most useful were: a subscription to the downloadable French IGN large scale maps. With this I could re-find the route when I lost it, choose to walk an alternative road when the GR trail headed up onto a mountain and right back down for no apparent reason, I carried sleeping bag and a tarp for rough camping (didn’t have to find lodging every night), the small deserted French villages are kinda spooky but I could reliably find water ...one live tap in every cemetery I visited. Any town large enough to have a visitor center seemed to have an English speaker who helped me find pilgrim lodging or attractions. The pilgrim services varied, sometimes I was the guest of a local clergy, one time I ate in the staff room of a luxury hotel. When I arrived at Lourdes Pilgrimage Center and presented my stamped credential they refused to accept payment for food and lodging. I was rare as they receive thousands of visitors via car and bus. Pilgrim stamps aren’t reliably found in France and I logged latitude and longitude of my nightly camp or got a signature of my host on my credential. This route is not convenient but it is remote and beautiful and very worthwhile.
 
Thank you, Gary, for contributing to this discussion. You've given many interesting details about your walk and I'm sure your input will be helpful to those who may want to consider this route, however, the Arles will probably stay on the back burner for me...maybe I'll reconsider when I'm 70! :)
 
I walked the Chemin d'Arles-Aragones-Frances to SDC September to November 2015, aged 61. The Arles route was lonely, but I always found accommodation, although the food supply was sometimes difficult and I ate at odd times as the opportunity arose. I used Miam Miam Dodo for accommodation and the route map. Some of the waymarking was indeed bizarre and sometimes I took the road, having extricated myself from some obscure path where the signs just ran out. At one gite, two Frenchman shook my hand and congratulated me on finding my way to that night's gite. They too had got lost. Often I was alone in gites/albergues. I needed a cellphone to book ahead and call in daily to friends. Only once did I feel in danger walking alone, but the 'suspect' young man was in fact warning me of a boar hunt up ahead, which I cottoned onto when I came across, at 200m intervals along the road, elderly men in camping chairs, each wearing a fluoro vest and holding a rifle in his lap. One was asleep.

I wouldn't walk it alone again, it was just too lonely.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I walked the Chemin d'Arles-Aragones-Frances to SDC September to November 2015, aged 61. The Arles route was lonely, but I always found accommodation, although the food supply was sometimes difficult and I ate at odd times as the opportunity arose. I used Miam Miam Dodo for accommodation and the route map. Some of the waymarking was indeed bizarre and sometimes I took the road, having extricated myself from some obscure path where the signs just ran out. At one gite, two Frenchman shook my hand and congratulated me on finding my way to that night's gite. They too had got lost. Often I was alone in gites/albergues. I needed a cellphone to book ahead and call in daily to friends. Only once did I feel in danger walking alone, but the 'suspect' young man was in fact warning me of a boar hunt up ahead, which I cottoned onto when I came across, at 200m intervals along the road, elderly men in camping chairs, each wearing a fluoro vest and holding a rifle in his lap. One was asleep.

I wouldn't walk it alone again, it was just too lonely.
I just returned from hiking sections of the via Tolosana, or chemin d’Arles and would like to offer advice to future hikers. First of all this trail is a GR and not necessarily a camino. Be prepared to do 20 plus kilometres per day with no place to sit except for the ground. Don’t expect any place for water or food once you leave in the morning and don’t expect that once you arrive at your destination that restaurants are open and that grocery stores are opened. The reality is that small villages in France are having difficulties surviving.
Accommodations are sometimes hard to come by and are not always acceptable.
A cell phone is a necessity because a lot of the gites are not manned by people but you must phone to obtain a code to enter. This also means that you don’t get a stamp on your passport.
I would recommend that you carry food to last you at least 2 days. Many places are closed on Sundays and/or Mondays and you might want to opt for a place with a demi pension on those days.

I would say that the Frances was probably like the Arles route in the past. It is only with more people walking it that more accommodation, bars etc will happen.
I have just finished the Arles route. We had no trouble with accommodation or meals as we mostly booked Demi pension or carried a packet of pasta plus the usual fruit, nuts, chocolate etc. Most gites in small villages with no facilities, had an epicerie in the Gite which the hospitalero would open. Miam Miam Dodo and the Confraternity guidebooks lists facilities for each town.
There is always a fresh water tap in cemeteries( if there is a cemetery on your route).
There were a lot more pilgrims after Toulouse. Some nights the gites and albergues were almost full. I agree that it could be lonely walking by yourself. Most solo pilgrims had started walking with others that I saw.
Also, along the way there are pilgrim masses or masses, of course in French. Sometimes we missed these and then noticed the sign in the Gite.
There are parts that I didn’t enjoy walking and that is in the cities. The first part between Arles and Montpellier isn’t as scenic as the latter parts. There is a tram you can catch into Montpellier which alleviated part of that walk. Unfortunately, I became ill and so we skipped the part between Montpellier and Toulouse. However, from Toulouse on definitely felt like a CAMINO to me. The hospitaliers were very welcoming and we enjoyed the company of other pilgrims. We received a stamp at every place we stayed except for the second night out of Arles.
 
I walked it in May/June 2014 from Montpellier to Santiago. I kept my sections to less than 20km until Castres, the first 8 days I booked in advance, I don't normally book in advance but I wasn't sure if my right knee was capable of doing bigger distances if I needed to keep on walking for accommodation. If I remember from the guides I had I could have done shorter sections in a few places but was mostly happy with 15km to 20km.
The route is stunning once you start climbing into the Haut Languedoc, I would walk it again in a blink of an eye if the right circumstances came along and that is against my ' addiction' to Camino's waining.

Food was a problem, shops, bars and cafes in the areas I went through never seemed to be open when I was there, in the end I accepted demi- pension at the gites as being my only source of food for the day, not a total hardship, I had some glorious meals such as a 5 course one at Villa Issiates in Joncels and then a buffet breakfast the next day. I think generally if you look at the various guides they will show you who does demi- pension, my advice to anyone wondering about this route is go to the places that do DP for two reasons, you might not have the option of food elsewhere and also the company of the people who serve it, it's true it can be a lonely route so fork out a bit more and go to the private gites rather than the municipal gites.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I walked the Chemin d'Arles-Aragones-Frances to SDC September to November 2015, aged 61. The Arles route was lonely, but I always found accommodation, although the food supply was sometimes difficult and I ate at odd times as the opportunity arose. I used Miam Miam Dodo for accommodation and the route map. Some of the waymarking was indeed bizarre and sometimes I took the road, having extricated myself from some obscure path where the signs just ran out. At one gite, two Frenchman shook my hand and congratulated me on finding my way to that night's gite. They too had got lost. Often I was alone in gites/albergues. I needed a cellphone to book ahead and call in daily to friends. Only once did I feel in danger walking alone, but the 'suspect' young man was in fact warning me of a boar hunt up ahead, which I cottoned onto when I came across, at 200m intervals along the road, elderly men in camping chairs, each wearing a fluoro vest and holding a rifle in his lap. One was asleep.

I wouldn't walk it alone again, it was just too lonely.
I agree it's a solitary walk, but it is very satisfying to be able to do it on your own too, both from a physical and spiritual/mental/psychic perspective. Yes, you will have to ask yourself how dependent you are on meeting other people, and how comfortable you are being with yourself a good majority of the time - and you will need to be flexible, as the route is not always (but most of the time this is not the case) the best-marked. It is definitely a different experience than some of the other walks; probably the one that's closest to it that I've done was the Via de la Plata, which was perhaps my favorite walk of all!

Well, it sounds like one Camino to tick off any bucket list I have before even considering or attempting it...I'm a little adventurous, but all the above observations have scared me off and I'm glad! Thank you all for the warnings, seriously!

I finished it a week or two ago (from Arles to Puente La Reina) and strongly recommend this walk. If you love nature, you will absolutely love this walk - the scenery is simply amazing along most of the trail, plus, there's not too much asphalt like on some other walks either! Don't let the posts here dissuade you from doing this stroll! If you don't like it after a few days or weeks, you are always free to choose to do another walk (or none at all :)) I'm not the world's strongest walker, and I had no problem (other than the normal aches and pains, sometimes) doing this walk. I have to admit, though, that I was very lucky - despite some very hot days, I only had one day of rain the whole way. If it does rain, just be flexible and use common sense, and avoid rocky/steep areas that might be dangerous when wet. Remember, this is not an Everest Base Camp walk!
 
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I would say that the Frances was probably like the Arles route in the past. It is only with more people walking it that more accommodation, bars etc will happen.
I have just finished the Arles route. ....

So glad you enjoyed it. And sorry to hear you were so sick for part of it. Welcome back. We rate it the best we've done. We walked from Arles across to Montpellier, Toulouse, Oleron St Marie, over the Somport, Jaca, and then finished in Puente la Reina.
When I say "the best" I mean taking the thing as a whole. Who hasn't had a rotten time some of the time? I wrote a fair bit on the way and photographed a lot. Those things were magical.
To give anyone thinking of doing it some of the flavour of what we experienced here is one of my FB posts and links to the pics that went with it - it's a Dropbox folder - just click and you can see and read the Pdf. of my notes and click ln the photos:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/aafayvpdww2wgr5/AABtj4KnGzMObJFXAm5WGPmya?dl=0
 
I agree with all your posts above. Via Tolosana is demanding and incredible. Arles with its Roman arena and Romanesque St Tropheme; Saint-Gilles-du-Gard, in the Middle Ages the third most important pilgrimage centre after Rome and Compostela, Montpellier, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert - voted one of the most beautiful villages in France, the cathedral in Lodeve and Auch, small towns like Bassoues with Basilique of Saint Fris and donjon, unforgettable Toulouse and Oloron-Sainte-Marie, Canal du Midi overshadowed with trees or moon landscape in Aragon. It is very solitude and demanding route. That’s why local people are so helpful, doesn't matter if you speak French or not. I was really touched by all the kindness I received while I was doing Tolosana. It was extraordinary even for the Camino standards.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
No, that's not right -- it's a very beautiful route, please don't understand these caveats otherwise !!!

You do need a deal more of independence than elsewhere, but the closer you get on your Way to SJPP is the closer you'll be to your own Will.
I agree with all your posts above. Via Tolosana is demanding and incredible. Arles with its Roman arena and Romanesque St Tropheme; Saint-Gilles-du-Gard, in the Middle Ages the third most important pilgrimage centre after Rome and Compostela, Montpellier, Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert - voted one of the most beautiful villages in France, the cathedral in Lodeve and Auch, small towns like Bassoues with Basilique of Saint Fris and donjon, unforgettable Toulouse and Oloron-Sainte-Marie, Canal du Midi overshadowed with trees or moon landscape in Aragon. It is very solitude and demanding route. That’s why local people are so helpful, doesn't matter if you speak French or not. I was really touched by all the kindness I received while I was doing Tolosana. It was extraordinary even for the Camino standards.
I just returned from hiking sections of the via Tolosana, or chemin d’Arles and would like to offer advice to future hikers. First of all this trail is a GR and not necessarily a camino. Be prepared to do 20 plus kilometres per day with no place to sit except for the ground. Don’t expect any place for water or food once you leave in the morning and don’t expect that once you arrive at your destination that restaurants are open and that grocery stores are opened. The reality is that small villages in France are having difficulties surviving.
Accommodations are sometimes hard to come by and are not always acceptable.
A cell phone is a necessity because a lot of the gites are not manned by people but you must phone to obtain a code to enter. This also means that you don’t get a stamp on your passport.
I would recommend that you carry food to last you at least 2 days. Many places are closed on Sundays and/or Mondays and you might want to opt for a place with a demi pension on those days.
 
My husband and I (in our 70s) walked from Toulouse to Puente la Reina in April and May 2018. It was a lovely walk. Yes, sometimes it was hard to find shops open, but this is true throughout the small villages in France on all the routes I've walked. There is a facebook page devoted to the Tolosana, with lots of helpful discussions and recommended information sources. For a look at the route beginning in Toulouse, see my video:
I'm reading here because we intend to return in the spring to walk the Arles to Toulouse section we didn't do last year. The Miam Miam Dodo (available directly from Vieux Crayon) was great, and we also had online maps.
 
While doing Via Tolosana I highly recommend a detour to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer (between Arles and Saint-Gilles). Obviously, you have to be armed with professional anti-mosquito spray. Saintes-Maries is a heart of Camargue. And the place where Saint James’ mother Salome is buried. Surely you agree with me that it is the done thing to pay mother visit first before you will visit her son;)
 
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We also walked the towpath of the Canal du Midi (on and off) until it joined the Tolosana at Toulouse. We started at Sète (which is off-route) and finished in St Marie Oloron. I found the IPhiGénie app essential. We used it for the detailed IGN maps which allowed us to make our own way when it suited us - including to visit villages and towns that the GR or towpath bypassed.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I hiked the last few stages from Oloron St Marie in May and it was superb. I’m now on day 4 in Grabels having started in Arles and have found this section to be difficult to be enthused about.

The way markings the first day were nearly non-existent. They are really good in some sections after day one but then inexplicably disappear for significant distances. If I didn’t have the Windy Maps app I’d have been hopelessly lost many times. There was even a misplaced way mark that sent me off course. Fortunately I realized that after .5 km went by and the app got me back on track.

Accommodations are expensive if you are not staying at a gite and you really need to book ahead. Lodging has been a bit scarce and time consuming to find so far. The scenery has been a mixed bag but Gronze promises it’ll be better from here. Today I lost over an hour as the route was blocked twice by construction in Montpellier. There were no markings to help find a suitable detour.

Yeah, it’s been a rough beginning, especially with the recent heat wave which has made any hiking after 12:00pm especially brutal. But more lies ahead so I’m hoping it’ll be closer to what I experienced in May.

It was gratifying to be able to start at the official beginning of the route but honestly I’d recommend skipping the first five Gronze stages unless beginning at the beginning is really important to you.

On a more positive note, people have been universally friendly and encouraging.

I’ll post again after I’ve gotten more stages in.
 
My experience too the first few stages but after Montpelier it absolutely does get better, feat not!
 
I hiked the last few stages from Oloron St Marie in May and it was superb. I’m now on day 4 in Grabels having started in Arles and have found this section to be difficult to be enthused about.

The way markings the first day were nearly non-existent. They are really good in some sections after day one but then inexplicably disappear for significant distances. If I didn’t have the Windy Maps app I’d have been hopelessly lost many times. There was even a misplaced way mark that sent me off course. Fortunately I realized that after .5 km went by and the app got me back on track.

Accommodations are expensive if you are not staying at a gite and you really need to book ahead. Lodging has been a bit scarce and time consuming to find so far. The scenery has been a mixed bag but Gronze promises it’ll be better from here. Today I lost over an hour as the route was blocked twice by construction in Montpellier. There were no markings to help find a suitable detour.

Yeah, it’s been a rough beginning, especially with the recent heat wave which has made any hiking after 12:00pm especially brutal. But more lies ahead so I’m hoping it’ll be closer to what I experienced in May.

It was gratifying to be able to start at the official beginning of the route but honestly I’d recommend skipping the first five Gronze stages unless beginning at the beginning is really important to you.

On a more positive note, people have been universally friendly and encouraging.

I’ll post again after I’ve gotten more stages in.
We walked from Arles to Puenta La Reina starting in late March 2018. We found the tourist info centres very helpful and would book ahead for us. Where food was difficult to source they would get a few supplies in for us waiting as we couldn’t carry much more. We have done many walks and this was our favourite. We are planning to do Toulouse to Puenta la Reina at the end of March next year with our grandson (18 year old) Can’t wait and am enjoying your trip and updates.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Thanks for the info and I may start a few stages past ARLES. Spending a month touring Italy first so unless I am allowed to stay past 90 days (From the US) in Europe I will be cutting it close and the five days may give me a bit of breathing room. I start my walk April 25 2020, just need to clear this off the list.
 
Any luggage [ ex Claudine's ] transport from Toulouse to St JPP ?
 
Kanga mentioned walking on and off Canal du Midi. I cycled exclusively along the Canal du Midi and it was just incredible. Not to mention that small canal that joins CdM. Absolutely unforgettable.
 
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