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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

What's the state of the Camino Francés right now - June 2021?

Prentiss Riddle

Aprendiz de todo, maestro de nada
Time of past OR future Camino
Português and/or Francés in 2023
The forums are abuzz with people making plans, but I don't see much news live from the Camino. Are there any pilgrims yet? Open albergues? Are things completely shut in the small towns, or can you still count on finding a slice of tortilla and something to drink when you walk into a village?

We have our fingers hovering over the "book now" button and wonder what we'll find if we go!
 
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Bit of patience and keep walking
maybe end of july Europe might open up
even EU green passport will be mid to end July and 4th wave and
variants rampant
i am aiming for late October and I am only 2 hour flight to Bilbao or Biarritz no pressing button for me until then
be safe
 
Bit of patience and keep walking
maybe end of july Europe might open up
even EU green passport will be mid to end July and 4th wave and
variants rampant
i am aiming for late October and I am only 2 hour flight to Bilbao or Biarritz no pressing button for me until then
be safe
Sean, thanks for the input. I have posted plenty of cautions to overly optimistic American pilgrims over the past year myself. But every credible news source I've looked at recently is taking as true the government announcement that Spain will open up to vaccinated Americans on June 7. And they are already open to visitors from the EU, UK, and several other countries. I imagine there are some Spanish, German, and British pilgrims on the trail already - or are there any?

(Maybe I should add that we are vaccinated. We wouldn't go anywhere, possibly not even the supermarket, if we weren't. Yes, everybody, please be safe!)
 
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I imagine there are some Spanish, German, and British pilgrims on the trail already - or are there any?
German, Swiss and French pilgrims are on the trail from SJPP onwards, according to their posts in various FB groups. Numbers are limited, not more than a few dozens a day per location/etapa.

At the other end, in Santiago, they saw a new daily record for Compostelas yesterday: over 400. Many of them will have been Spanish pilgrims.
 
I’m not well informed enough to say yay or nay and like so many I would love to be there right now hiking from SJPD to Santiago. Nothing I’d like to do more than but I remind myself over and over, while I’m waiting, that one of the great joys of the Camino, I found, was the many wonderful people you meet along the way. Walking it with a few odd pilgrims here and there would not be that uplifting, for me, and would probably even put a dull sheen on the bright magic of my first Camino. It would sadden me to see it deplete of the usual numbers. Hard as it is I for one will wait until it is well and truly back into full swing.
 
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Hi guys, I am going to keep it brief I hope because I don’t want to be on the phone that much.

I started in SJPD last friday, I have no prior camino experience but there were quite a few pilgrims, mostly french and spanish.

The hostal onwer and people in the pilgrims office said that the influx of new people is growing day by day.

That is also the general feeling of the locals along the way. Albergues are opening up left and right and it is not hard to find sleeping places. Cafes restaurants etc are all open. Even in the small towns. And they are generally very happy to see you and ask a lot of questions.

although sadly I saw quite a few permanently closed businesses. Mostly small eating establishments.

Lots of ‘buen camino’s’ from all the locals you see and meet along the way. Although it is hard to see if they smile or not, everywhere outside and inside of places ( except when you are seated) people wear masks.

I’ve met quite a few pilgrims ( again I have no prior experience to compare it to) from all over europe.
My main group consists of italians, a czech, a chinese and a swiss. I see a couple of dozen of other people each day. From norwegians to french to serbian. From young to “old”. Old in parenthesis because they seem to be the most fit of them all haha. Pro’s, learning a lot from them.

I hope this little bit of info helps.

I am having a great time, and the mood of people around me (locals and pilgrims) is one optimism, hope and happiness. Thats my feel of things anyways.

Edit: keep in mind this is only the first couple of days. So we’ll see whats up ahead. Will post an update in a week or so again.
 
Great to hear! And full of envy. Good on you. Fact is, we don’t have a choice, we can’t leave the country (Australia) except with a permit for exceptional circumstances. Our borders are closed otherwise I’d be there too, based on what you’ve described. It’s early days and my guess is you’ll like it more and more as the days pass. It only gets better.
 
Last edited:
Hi guys, I am going to keep it brief I hope because I don’t want to be on the phone that much.

I started in SJPD last friday, I have no prior camino experience but there were quite a few pilgrims, mostly french and spanish.

The hostal onwer and people in the pilgrims office said that the influx of new people is growing day by day.
Thank you, Huub, that's very encouraging. Buen camino!
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Sean, thanks for the input. I have posted plenty of cautions to overly optimistic American pilgrims over the past year myself. But every credible news source I've looked at recently is taking as true the government announcement that Spain will open up to vaccinated Americans on June 7. And they are already open to visitors from the EU, UK, and several other countries. I imagine there are some Spanish, German, and British pilgrims on the trail already - or are there any?

(Maybe I should add that we are vaccinated. We wouldn't go anywhere, possibly not even the supermarket, if we weren't. Yes, everybody, please be safe!)
I am heading to Spain as soon as the gates are open! I am coming from Washington state
 
Hi guys, I am going to keep it brief I hope because I don’t want to be on the phone that much.

I started in SJPD last friday, I have no prior camino experience but there were quite a few pilgrims, mostly french and spanish.

The hostal onwer and people in the pilgrims office said that the influx of new people is growing day by day.

That is also the general feeling of the locals along the way. Albergues are opening up left and right and it is not hard to find sleeping places. Cafes restaurants etc are all open. Even in the small towns. And they are generally very happy to see you and ask a lot of questions.

although sadly I saw quite a few permanently closed businesses. Mostly small eating establishments.

Lots of ‘buen camino’s’ from all the locals you see and meet along the way. Although it is hard to see if they smile or not, everywhere outside and inside of places ( except when you are seated) people wear masks.

I’ve met quite a few pilgrims ( again I have no prior experience to compare it to) from all over europe.
My main group consists of italians, a czech, a chinese and a swiss. I see a couple of dozen of other people each day. From norwegians to french to serbian. From young to “old”. Old in parenthesis because they seem to be the most fit of them all haha. Pro’s, learning a lot from them.

I hope this little bit of info helps.

I am having a great time, and the mood of people around me (locals and pilgrims) is one optimism, hope and happiness. Thats my feel of things anyways.

Edit: keep in mind this is only the first couple of days. So we’ll see whats up ahead. Will post an update in a week or so again.
It's great to get a detailed update of what's going on. Like so many others I too hope for a speedy Spain recovery. I plan on trekking the camino from SJPP to Santiago beginning September 19, so keep the great updates coming!
Anna
 
Thanks for the updates.
I also like to read about others' plans. As a teacher, I would have to begin sometime in July in order to have the time to walk my preferred distance. I'm checking updates each day eagerly waiting to choose my flight. Fingers crossed, but understanding if it is not feasible this summer.
Would be flying out of Detroit.
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Hi guys, I am going to keep it brief I hope because I don’t want to be on the phone that much.

I started in SJPD last friday, I have no prior camino experience but there were quite a few pilgrims, mostly french and spanish.

The hostal onwer and people in the pilgrims office said that the influx of new people is growing day by day.

That is also the general feeling of the locals along the way. Albergues are opening up left and right and it is not hard to find sleeping places. Cafes restaurants etc are all open. Even in the small towns. And they are generally very happy to see you and ask a lot of questions.

although sadly I saw quite a few permanently closed businesses. Mostly small eating establishments.

Lots of ‘buen camino’s’ from all the locals you see and meet along the way. Although it is hard to see if they smile or not, everywhere outside and inside of places ( except when you are seated) people wear masks.

I’ve met quite a few pilgrims ( again I have no prior experience to compare it to) from all over europe.
My main group consists of italians, a czech, a chinese and a swiss. I see a couple of dozen of other people each day. From norwegians to french to serbian. From young to “old”. Old in parenthesis because they seem to be the most fit of them all haha. Pro’s, learning a lot from them.

I hope this little bit of info helps.

I am having a great time, and the mood of people around me (locals and pilgrims) is one optimism, hope and happiness. Thats my feel of things anyways.

Edit: keep in mind this is only the first couple of days. So we’ll see whats up ahead. Will post an update in a week or so again.
Is't possible to walk at the camino without The Vaccination?
 
I walked last August/September and although numbers were down by over 90% on previous Camino's, the experience was quite wonderful and extraordinary. Locals were welcoming and super-friendly, especially those Albergue owners who remained open sometimes with no guests at all. Many times I was the only one. An early meeting with a young Spanish guy walking to honour his grandparents who had both died in the pandemic dispelled any worries/fears I might have had that I was doing the 'wrong' thing.
I mention this because there are still those who believe that walking this year would be irresponsible. I disagree. Yes, there will always be the slight risk that even vaccinated pilgrims can vector the virus from one location to another.....the key word there is 'always'. Covid will remain part of all our lives for years to come; as they say, 'no-one is safe until everyone is safe' and the plain truth is that such an ideal may never come to pass. Meanwhile life must go on. The small trickle of pilgrims now will slowly develop into a stream and eventually a flood as more and more people take the plunge, hit the 'book now' button and just go. I'd be leaving again soon were it not for one major problem.
France is currently mandating a week-long self-isolation requirement for all non-French visitors.
And since I prefer to start my CF in SJPDP by flying first into Biarritz, I would need to quarantine somewhere for 7 days.
That situation will, hopefully, change within the next couple months or so.
Meanwhile I shall remain patient, August-September is a fabulous time of the year to walk - last year, my fifth CF, it didn't rain once in the entire trip.....not even in Galicia !!!
So for those thinking of starting in Pamplona or elsewhere in Spain my advice would be DO IT before that stream turns into a full-blooded deluge.
BC. Mike
 
I have friends who have walked recently and one who is on his last day of walking the Camino in Mallorca before he ships to Girona and starts walking to Santiago from there, they haven't had vaccinations yet and the one walking at the moment isn't likely to have had a vaccination by the time he finishes in mid August. They are Spanish and all walked last summer as well.
 
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France is currently mandating a week-long self-isolation requirement for all non-French visitors.
The week-long self-isolation requirement does not apply to EU+ visitors. That's why the Camino Frances is currently a largely European affair in the first part, as @Huub den Boer has just reported, and later on a Spanish-European affair, and not as global/international as it had become.

If you are arriving from a country within the European space, you can enter France. You must comply with health regulations to enter France (PCR test and sworn declaration). You are not required to self-isolate.
The countries which comprise the European space are all the European Union Member States, as well as Andorra, the Holy See, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Monaco, Norway, San Marino and Switzerland.
 
Hi guys, I am going to keep it brief I hope because I don’t want to be on the phone that much.

I started in SJPD last friday, I have no prior camino experience but there were quite a few pilgrims, mostly french and spanish.

The hostal onwer and people in the pilgrims office said that the influx of new people is growing day by day.

That is also the general feeling of the locals along the way. Albergues are opening up left and right and it is not hard to find sleeping places. Cafes restaurants etc are all open. Even in the small towns. And they are generally very happy to see you and ask a lot of questions.

although sadly I saw quite a few permanently closed businesses. Mostly small eating establishments.

Lots of ‘buen camino’s’ from all the locals you see and meet along the way. Although it is hard to see if they smile or not, everywhere outside and inside of places ( except when you are seated) people wear masks.

I’ve met quite a few pilgrims ( again I have no prior experience to compare it to) from all over europe.
My main group consists of italians, a czech, a chinese and a swiss. I see a couple of dozen of other people each day. From norwegians to french to serbian. From young to “old”. Old in parenthesis because they seem to be the most fit of them all haha. Pro’s, learning a lot from them.

I hope this little bit of info helps.

I am having a great time, and the mood of people around me (locals and pilgrims) is one optimism, hope and happiness. Thats my feel of things anyways.

Edit: keep in mind this is only the first couple of days. So we’ll see whats up ahead. Will post an update in a week or so again.
So public albuergues are open now? I tried to plan for starting late June.
 
So public albuergues are open now?
I haven't read anything to indicate that the municipal/parish/xunta albergues are open. I'd expect it to depend on the municipality or area of Spain. I assume that @Huub den Boer's general statement about albergues opening left and right, referred mainly to private albergues.
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I haven't read anything to indicate that the municipal/parish/xunta albergues are open. I'd expect it to depend on the municipality or area of Spain. I assume that @Huub den Boer's general statement about albergues opening left and right, referred mainly to private albergues.
This post from @Tincatinker makes sense - that public albergues will start to open when the demand is too much for the private places to handle.
Current inclinations seems to be that the private network, with mortgages to pay, will get first nibble at the pilgrim fruit...
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Hi everyone,

Yes the muncipal ones are closed.

I keep meeting more and more pilgrims, instant conections, it is quiete beautiful.

Still having no problems finding sleeping places, they are activly advertising for albergues on the route. I’ll attach a photo below of the kind of flyers I see on route.

I am at Najera atm. All is well, people are awesome. I never want to leave.
981CDA38-807B-48A3-A5D7-A552ABAF6E67.jpeg
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Hi everyone,

Yes the muncipal ones are closed.

I keep meeting more and more pilgrims, instant conections, it is quiete beautiful.

Still having no problems finding sleeping places, they are activly advertising for albergues on the route. I’ll attach a photo below of the kind of flyers I see on route.

I am at Najera atm. All is well, people are awesome. I never want to leave.
View attachment 101923
Huub den Boer,
Glad to read your good news. Do keep us all posted on how it continues.
Carpe diem.
 
Hi everyone,

Yes the muncipal ones are closed.

I keep meeting more and more pilgrims, instant conections, it is quiete beautiful.

Still having no problems finding sleeping places, they are activly advertising for albergues on the route. I’ll attach a photo below of the kind of flyers I see on route.

I am at Najera atm. All is well, people are awesome. I never want to leave.
View attachment 101923
Hi Huub, so glad to hear you are having a great time!

I will be in Roncesvalles as from June 25th, we all hope we can open the albergue by that time and start doing what we missed so much: being a hospitalero ;-)
 
I will be in Roncesvalles as from June 25th, we all hope we can open the albergue by that time and start doing what we missed so much: being a hospitalero ;-)
@Ianinam, it is great to hear that you and the other Dutch hospitaleros will return to Roncesvalles in less than three weeks. Do you know how many beds the Roncesvalles albergue can offer? 91 beds or the full set of 183 beds or so?
 
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Hi everyone,

Yes the muncipal ones are closed.

I keep meeting more and more pilgrims, instant conections, it is quiete beautiful.

Still having no problems finding sleeping places, they are activly advertising for albergues on the route. I’ll attach a photo below of the kind of flyers I see on route.

I am at Najera atm. All is well, people are awesome. I never want to leave.
View attachment 101923
How much are you paying per night, on average?
 
@Ianinam, it is great to hear that you and the other Dutch hospitaleros will return to Roncesvalles in less than three weeks. Do you know how many beds the Roncesvalles albergue can offer? 91 beds or the full set of 183 beds or so?
Kathar1na, it will only be 91 beds. The beds are placed in cubicles of four beds (one high/low left, one high/low right) and because of the distancy rules we can only use two beds per cubicle: one high, and one opposite low. Unless it is a family of four, then of course we can use all the four beds in that cubicle.

In non-covid times when we had many pilgrims we could also use the overflow in the 'Dependencia' (the winter-albergue) with 34 beds in the old - not restored - part of the Monastry. We are not allowed to use that part now, because it is impossible there to keep enough distance in the toilet/shower area.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Do you guys also know if kitchens for self-cooking in hostels are closed or restricted in use? I read something like that somewhere...
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
This has been very helpful! I'm also wondering about Albergue kitchens, communal meals, indoor eating in general, mask wearing, sleeping arrangements, etc. All those things of daily life that have been affected. I hope to walk primitivo in July-August this summer.
 
We arrived today in Pamplona, one week after Spain's reopening to vaccinated visitors from most places, including the USA. The airports at home in Texas were packed (it looked like a holiday weekend) but the Dallas > Madrid flight was far from full - we got to sit with an empty seat between us. International arrivals in Madrid were completely smooth with no wait, and the SpTH QR code worked like a charm.

Pamplona seems to have come back to life with the bars and restaurants mostly open but uncrowded. We heard a fair sprinkling of American accents but only spotted one recognizable pilgrim. Had a nice chat with the fellow at the Caminoteca store. He said that business is very slowly picking up. He noted that for whatever reason the European and now North American pilgrims are trickling in, but none from Asian countries yet - the usual Korean contingent is not coming yet. Also missing are the Australians, who are being discouraged from traveling because their country has largely been spared and their officials want to keep it that way.

We have not yet decided where to resume our slow multi-year Camino. Maybe we'll retrace our steps out of Pamplona, maybe pick up where we left off on the Meseta or maybe jump ahead in search of shade. Unfortunately it looks like stormy weather is coming. Wherever it is, I'll report back.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
We arrived today in Pamplona, one week after Spain's reopening to vaccinated visitors from most places, including the USA. The airports at home in Texas were packed (it looked like a holiday weekend) but the Dallas > Madrid flight was far from full - we got to sit with an empty seat between us. International arrivals in Madrid were completely smooth with no wait, and the SpTH QR code worked like a charm.

Pamplona seems to have come back to life with the bars and restaurants mostly open but uncrowded. We heard a fair sprinkling of American accents but only spotted one recognizable pilgrim. Had a nice chat with the fellow at the Caminoteca store. He said that business is very slowly picking up. He noted that for whatever reason the European and now North American pilgrims are trickling in, but none from Asian countries yet - the usual Korean contingent is not coming yet. Also missing are the Australians, who are being discouraged from traveling because their country has largely been spared and their officials want to keep it that way.

We have not yet decided where to resume our slow multi-year Camino. Maybe we'll retrace our steps out of Pamplona, maybe pick up where we left off on the Meseta or maybe jump ahead in search of shade. Unfortunately it looks like stormy weather is coming. Wherever it is, I'll report back.
How exciting for you that you are beginning your journey! This is so good to read.
Have a wonderful time!
Thank you for this message and keep them coming if you have time. I hope to leave in a few weeks (from US), so these updates are helpful.
Stay safe.
Buen Camino.
Lynne
 
Great information. Happy to hear
We arrived today in Pamplona, one week after Spain's reopening to vaccinated visitors from most places, including the USA. The airports at home in Texas were packed (it looked like a holiday weekend) but the Dallas > Madrid flight was far from full - we got to sit with an empty seat between us. International arrivals in Madrid were completely smooth with no wait, and the SpTH QR code worked like a charm.

Pamplona seems to have come back to life with the bars and restaurants mostly open but uncrowded. We heard a fair sprinkling of American accents but only spotted one recognizable pilgrim. Had a nice chat with the fellow at the Caminoteca store. He said that business is very slowly picking up. He noted that for whatever reason the European and now North American pilgrims are trickling in, but none from Asian countries yet - the usual Korean contingent is not coming yet. Also missing are the Australians, who are being discouraged from traveling because their country has largely been spared and their officials want to keep it that way.

We have not yet decided where to resume our slow multi-year Camino. Maybe we'll retrace our steps out of Pamplona, maybe pick up where we left off on the Meseta or maybe jump ahead in search of shade. Unfortunately it looks like stormy weather is coming. Wherever it is, I'll report back.
great news to hear things are getting back to a somewhat normal state. Fingers crossed that all will continue forward. Be safe and Buen Camino!
 
We arrived today in Pamplona, one week after Spain's reopening to vaccinated visitors from most places, including the USA. The airports at home in Texas were packed (it looked like a holiday weekend) but the Dallas > Madrid flight was far from full - we got to sit with an empty seat between us. International arrivals in Madrid were completely smooth with no wait, and the SpTH QR code worked like a charm.

Pamplona seems to have come back to life with the bars and restaurants mostly open but uncrowded. We heard a fair sprinkling of American accents but only spotted one recognizable pilgrim. Had a nice chat with the fellow at the Caminoteca store. He said that business is very slowly picking up. He noted that for whatever reason the European and now North American pilgrims are trickling in, but none from Asian countries yet - the usual Korean contingent is not coming yet. Also missing are the Australians, who are being discouraged from traveling because their country has largely been spared and their officials want to keep it that way.

We have not yet decided where to resume our slow multi-year Camino. Maybe we'll retrace our steps out of Pamplona, maybe pick up where we left off on the Meseta or maybe jump ahead in search of shade. Unfortunately it looks like stormy weather is coming. Wherever it is, I'll report back.
I plan on mid July-mid august arrival
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Are the hotels in Pamplona open? I don’t see many on booking.com
Yes. I am typing this at the Hostal Arriazu (a small hotel, not a hostel) and I booked it on Booking.

(This is our third time at the Arriazu, by the way. Small rooms and the world's tiniest shower, but the price is good and the location one block from the main plaza can't be beat.)
 
Yes. I am typing this at the Hostal Arriazu (a small hotel, not a hostel) and I booked it on Booking.

(This is our third time at the Arriazu, by the way. Small rooms and the world's tiniest shower, but the price is good and the location one block from the main plaza can't be beat.)
I have stayed there many times, but am not seeing them on Booking.com. It must be too early. I'll try next month.
 
I have stayed there many times, but am not seeing them on Booking.com. It must be too early. I'll try next month.
Are you looking at later dates? Both on their own website and on Booking.com, you can book a room at the Hostal Arriazu in Pamplona between now and September 30.

After that date, these reservation systems say "completo" or "no disponibilidad" and that until into the year 2023 but I strongly suspect that the management just hasn't feed their data into these booking systems beyond September 2021.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Are you looking at later dates? Both on their own website and on Booking.com, you can book a room at the Hostal Arriazu in Pamplona between now and September 30.

After that date, these reservation systems say "completo" or "no disponibilidad" and that until into the year 2023 but I strongly suspect that the management just hasn't feed their data into these booking systems beyond September 2021.
Yes I was looking for 2022 - I'll keep checking
 
Live from the Camino Francés, Wednesday June 16:

Despite threats of rain, we left Pamplona for a day of clear weather, warm turning to hot with the relief of some cooling breezes.

The trail was sparsely traveled. We saw perhaps two dozen pilgrims all day, and more locals than pilgrims. In a half hour rest at the top of the Alto de Perdón in the early afternoon we saw only six pilgrims.

In Zariquiegi, the bar and both albergues were closed. Fortunately the tiny grocery was open.

In Uterga, the Albergue Camino del Perdón was closed (not sure about the adjacent Hostal of the same name but it looked closed too). The Albergue Casa Baztán was open, however, so we stayed there. There were a total of only 8 guests.

More tomorrow.
 
Live from the Camino Francés, Thursday June 17:

The threat of rain turned real today, making us damp on the way into Puente la Reina and thoroughly drenching us shortly after.

Muruzábal and Obanos: No sign of open albergues or other lodgings that we could see. We didn't call them to confirm - if there is an open albergue that we missed, please let me know in the comments.

Obanos did have a working bar one block off the camino (look to the left as you enter the main square).

Plenty of open albergues and bars in Puente la Reina, as one would expect.

No accommodations in Mañeru, but the bar "La Unión" was lively and serving a great menú del día.

To our joy, in Cirauqui the lovely albergue Maralotx is alive and well after a change in ownership. Seven pilgrims stayed the night.
 
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Hi everyone,

Yes the muncipal ones are closed.

I keep meeting more and more pilgrims, instant conections, it is quiete beautiful.

Still having no problems finding sleeping places, they are activly advertising for albergues on the route. I’ll attach a photo below of the kind of flyers I see on route.

I am at Najera atm. All is well, people are awesome. I never want to leave.
View attachment 101923
I can relate too! Thank you for sharing such bright news and wish everyone you see, plus yourself Buen Camino from me too. I am the same as @Camino Chrissy waiting on vaccine roll-out, border openings.
 
We arrived today in Pamplona, one week after Spain's reopening to vaccinated visitors from most places, including the USA. The airports at home in Texas were packed (it looked like a holiday weekend) but the Dallas > Madrid flight was far from full - we got to sit with an empty seat between us. International arrivals in Madrid were completely smooth with no wait, and the SpTH QR code worked like a charm.

Pamplona seems to have come back to life with the bars and restaurants mostly open but uncrowded. We heard a fair sprinkling of American accents but only spotted one recognizable pilgrim. Had a nice chat with the fellow at the Caminoteca store. He said that business is very slowly picking up. He noted that for whatever reason the European and now North American pilgrims are trickling in, but none from Asian countries yet - the usual Korean contingent is not coming yet. Also missing are the Australians, who are being discouraged from traveling because their country has largely been spared and their officials want to keep it that way.

We have not yet decided where to resume our slow multi-year Camino. Maybe we'll retrace our steps out of Pamplona, maybe pick up where we left off on the Meseta or maybe jump ahead in search of shade. Unfortunately it looks like stormy weather is coming. Wherever it is, I'll report back.
We Australians are not being "discouraged" from traveling - we are PROHIBITED from leaving the country by our Federal Government (with some very limited exceptions, which do not include non-essential travel, eg a Camino). Last news I heard, Greg Hunt was indicating this situation is likely to continue until latter part of 2022. At least.
*sigh*
 
Live from the Camino Francés, Friday June 18:

After yesterday's rain, we woke up in Cirauqui to gorgeous walking weather - partly cloudy, breezy, and humid but cool.

As was normal in pre-COVID years the only breakfast available in Cirauqui was coffee from the coin-operated machine in the albergue, so we did the Roman road out of town on an empty stomach.

In Lorca, there were no signs of life in the "kissing albergues" directly opposite each other on the camino. But the honey shop in the town square was open with coffee and bocadillos.

Saw several open bars in Viilatuerta serving primarily locals. We stopped at the first one we ran into, inside the Polideportivo (rec center). The swimming pool looked very inviting - we were tempted to shed our boots and jump in! No indication about whether albergues were open.

Estella seems to have services of every kind open, as we expected in such a large town.

More tomorrow.
 
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Live from the Camino Francés, Sunday June 20:

Some foot issues so we've had a couple of short walking days, once again in beautiful weather despite predictions of rain.

Even in a big town like Estella, Spain is Spain, and we wasted a bunch of time fruitlessly looking for a breakfast place that opens early with more than sweets and coffee. Finally we gave up and started walking, and then immediately stumbled across a bar serving tortilla and sausages. The camino provides - eventually.

In Ayegui, the charming metal gate I had noticed in years past now turns out to have a whole fascinating workshop of hand-forged metal art behind it (you can see it at laforjadeayegui.com). Unable to carry a 500-pound Tree of Life in our backpacks, we settled for a half-ounce shell pendant as a souvenir.

Another hundred yards up the trail, miracle of miracles, the Irache wine fountain was flowing! The vending machine for wine glasses is gone, so be sure to bring your own.

In Azqueta, the small bar on the camino is open. Apparently so is the albergue La Perla Negra, according to a note on the door.

At Villamayor de Monjardín the municipal albergue seems to be closed but the private Oasis Trails was open. We stayed the night (total of seven pilgrims) and enjoyed a lovely dinner.

Also at Villamayor de Monjardín, the bar next door to Oasis Trails was open.

En route to Los Arcos, the foot problems caught up with us and we had to call a taxi. One pilgrim and two backpacks proceeded by car, leaving the other pilgrim feeling light as a feather and practically dancing down the trail. What a difference a few kg off one's back can make!

In Los Arcos, at least two albergues and many bars were open.

It seems likely that the foot injury has put an end to our mini-camino this year. Bottom line: big places are almost business as usual, but in smaller towns don't count on anything. ¡Buen camino!
 
In Ayegui, the charming metal gate I had noticed in years past now turns out to have a whole fascinating workshop of hand-forged metal art behind it (you can see it at laforjadeayegui.com).
I've stopped there a couple of times. Yes, it would be nice to have one of those larger pieces in my home!
Another hundred yards up the trail, miracle of miracles, the Irache wine fountain was flowing! The vending machine for wine glasses is gone, so be sure to bring your own.
I don't remember a vending machine for wine glasses. When I've been there people have used water bottles or their shells to drink from.
 
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It seems likely that the foot injury has put an end to our mini-camino this year.
This is so sad to hear! You are only one week in and the foot injury is ending your Camino so soon...so sad and you had traveled all the way from Texas. Are you sure a few days rest won't help? Will you change your flights or hang out in Spain a few more weeks relaxing? You have probably waited over a year since covid began to go and I am so disappointed for you.
All the best whatever you decide.
 
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I don't recall the vending machine here in 2015 or 2017...maybe I didn't look closely.
I didn’t see one in 2017 either. I do remember the place right before it that sold hand crafted iron goods - I have a scallop shell necklace I bought there I wear to this day!
 
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This is so sad to hear! You are only one week in and the foot injury is ending your Camino so soon...
That is very kind of you, Chrissy. We only had a short time available anyway so the injury cost us a few days walking, not a full camino. We will get to Santiago after retirement and until then we are doing bits and pieces. This year we started over in Pamplona because there were no trains available to where we left off last time. So we got to see some of our favorite places again.
 
That is very kind of you, Chrissy. We only had a short time available anyway so the injury cost us a few days walking, not a full camino. We will get to Santiago after retirement and until then we are doing bits and pieces. This year we started over in Pamplona because there were no trains available to where we left off last time. So we got to see some of our favorite places again.
Nice to hear that you didn't have to shorten a five or six week trip down to just one. You have a great attitude and are enjoying a few favorite places and have turned a lemon into lemonade.🙂
Hope the feet are doing better.
 
That is very kind of you, Chrissy. We only had a short time available anyway so the injury cost us a few days walking, not a full camino. We will get to Santiago after retirement and until then we are doing bits and pieces. This year we started over in Pamplona because there were no trains available to where we left off last time. So we got to see some of our favorite places again.
Thank you for your updates: I have read them with interest. It sounds promising for this autumn.

Very sorry you had to stop short, although by npot much. But remember, the Camino is always there, waiting for you. Just say to yourself: "I'll be back!" :cool:

Buen (future) Camino!
 
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The forums are abuzz with people making plans, but I don't see much news live from the Camino. Are there any pilgrims yet? Open albergues? Are things completely shut in the small towns, or can you still count on finding a slice of tortilla and something to drink when you walk into a village?

We have our fingers hovering over the "book now" button and wonder what we'll find if we go!
Most municipal albergues closed in big and small towns
Plenty of private beds in big towns
 
The forums are abuzz with people making plans, but I don't see much news live from the Camino. Are there any pilgrims yet? Open albergues? Are things completely shut in the small towns, or can you still count on finding a slice of tortilla and something to drink when you walk into a village?

We have our fingers hovering over the "book now" button and wonder what we'll find if we go!
Hi, I am an English pilgrim on the Frances who started in Pamplona on 14 June.
I am currently in hornillos del Camino and having a fabulous time.
Many shops and cafe not open so take food on stages just in case. There are plenty pilgrims walking from every country.
Albergue are not a problem. My Camino family are having no problems finding beds at all.
Wear a mask in villages, towns and inside, otherwise not needed.
It is quiet, and very beautiful.
I had no problems flying into Spain, not sure about flying back though!
Hope this helps.
 
Nix,
Welcome to the Forum and thanks for your update.

Direct daily info does indeed help. It is especially useful for those readers who are planning a trip in the near future during this uncertain time.

Please do keep on reporting when you can.

Carpe diem and Buen camino.
 
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Hi, I am an English pilgrim on the Frances who started in Pamplona on 14 June.
I am currently in hornillos del Camino and having a fabulous time.
Many shops and cafe not open so take food on stages just in case. There are plenty pilgrims walking from every country.
Albergue are not a problem. My Camino family are having no problems finding beds at all.
Wear a mask in villages, towns and inside, otherwise not needed.
It is quiet, and very beautiful.
I had no problems flying into Spain, not sure about flying back though!
Hope this helps.
You say you were in Hornillos...did you have a problem getting a bed there? Did you book ahead of time?
Thanks!
I hope your journey continues to be as wonderful as you make it sound in your post!
 
You say you were in Hornillos...did you have a problem getting a bed there? Did you book ahead of time?
Thanks!
I hope your journey continues to be as wonderful as you make it sound in your post!
No problems getting albergue anywhere so far. I stayed at meeting point and did not reserve. There were only 5 pilgrims there last night.
 
I walked last August/September and although numbers were down by over 90% on previous Camino's, the experience was quite wonderful and extraordinary. Locals were welcoming and super-friendly, especially those Albergue owners who remained open sometimes with no guests at all. Many times I was the only one. An early meeting with a young Spanish guy walking to honour his grandparents who had both died in the pandemic dispelled any worries/fears I might have had that I was doing the 'wrong' thing.
I mention this because there are still those who believe that walking this year would be irresponsible. I disagree. Yes, there will always be the slight risk that even vaccinated pilgrims can vector the virus from one location to another.....the key word there is 'always'. Covid will remain part of all our lives for years to come; as they say, 'no-one is safe until everyone is safe' and the plain truth is that such an ideal may never come to pass. Meanwhile life must go on. The small trickle of pilgrims now will slowly develop into a stream and eventually a flood as more and more people take the plunge, hit the 'book now' button and just go. I'd be leaving again soon were it not for one major problem.
France is currently mandating a week-long self-isolation requirement for all non-French visitors.
And since I prefer to start my CF in SJPDP by flying first into Biarritz, I would need to quarantine somewhere for 7 days.
That situation will, hopefully, change within the next couple months or so.
Meanwhile I shall remain patient, August-September is a fabulous time of the year to walk - last year, my fifth CF, it didn't rain once in the entire trip.....not even in Galicia !!!
So for those thinking of starting in Pamplona or elsewhere in Spain my advice would be DO IT before that stream turns into a full-blooded deluge.
BC. Mike
Thanks for such rational opinions. I have always believed that important decisions must be taken without fear, and if I am afraid ... either I rationalize it and eliminate it, or I wait to decide at another time, when I can decide freely. Fear is, in itself, one of the greatest determinants of lack of freedom. And there is too much fear in the world, and too little real life ...
What wonderful times those, in which great men and women created our countries, and how sad now, in which we are letting them fall and lose ...

Gabriel
 
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Live from the Camino Francés, Friday June 18:
...As was normal in pre-COVID years the only breakfast available in Cirauqui was coffee from the coin-operated machine in the albergue, so we did the Roman road out of town on an empty stomach.
...
Hi Prentiss!, this is Juanma, from Casa Maralotx. Hope you and Susan are fine and, I guess, already back home and safe! Thanks for your kind words about Maralotx, I appreciate! And since you mentioned about breakfast, just letting everyone know that we have actually just recently started offering a take-away breakfast bag.

BTW, I know I owe you and Susan, and the other pilgrims you shared the table with that night in our wine cellar, an email. Haven't forgotten about it and will be sending it soon, I promise! 🙂

Take care, best wishes!
 
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