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Where could I spend 2 nights, or only walk a short day between Leon and Santiago

PixieAuror

Member
Time of past OR future Camino
22 April 2018 if all goes well
I'm planning on hiking the camino de frances sometime during June - August (don't have official dates yet). I would like to rest once a week.
My current idea is to spend 2 nights in Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos and then finally Leon - does this seem reasonable or too much?
Between Leon and Santiago there seems to be quite a long stretch. Where would anybody recommend resting? Is there a particularly scenic town somewhere in the middle of the two?
 
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Between Leon and Santiago there seems to be quite a long stretch. Where would anybody recommend resting? Is there a particularly scenic town somewhere in the middle of the two?

Depends what you are looking for, bigger towns with much activity or smaller, quiet places. I would say that good in-between options could be Cacabelos or Villafranca del Bierzo. Nice cities with good places to eat. In Cacabelos specifically Moncloa de San Lázaro with very good food and atmosphere. Triacastela could also be an option, it is a small town but there is good and cheap food in nice surroundings at Complexo Xacobeco.

Buen Camino
 
Hi, Pamplona, Burgos and León are the obvious ones for stopping 2 nights so that you can be a tourist for one day. I find that when I “plan” rest days they rarely suit me on the actual day. You might meet some great companions that you want to stay in sync with, or you get sick, so a rest day now would be better than your planned one in 3 days time. I don’t do rest days anymore; I prefer to walk a short day (5 to 8kms), and then treat that afternoon as a “rest” day for things like sightseeing, museums, art galleries, etc. There is usually enough time, and if there isn’t, well, then just stay another day!
Jill
 
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I don’t do rest days anymore; I prefer to walk a short day (5 to 8kms), and then treat that afternoon as a “rest” day for things like sightseeing, museums, art galleries, etc. There is usually enough time, and if there isn’t, well, then just stay another day!
Jill
Same here! :)
By all means plan where you'd like to stay, how many days etc (how else does one spend the Winter? )but be prepared to throw your plans to the wind the minute you are on the road!
 
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I'm planning on hiking the camino de frances sometime during June - August (don't have official dates yet). I would like to rest once a week.
My current idea is to spend 2 nights in Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos and then finally Leon - does this seem reasonable or too much?
Between Leon and Santiago there seems to be quite a long stretch. Where would anybody recommend resting? Is there a particularly scenic town somewhere in the middle of the two?
Hola @Pixi, I agree about rest/recovery days in Pamplona / Burgos & Leon -but unless you are really fatigued I would not worry too much about a stop over in Logrono (in fact in two caminos I have always staged through this city - never stopped/over nighted). By Leon you should be really road/camino fit and I doubt you will need a rest day after here.
Here was my itinerary ex Leon: Leon to Villar de Mazarife (this is Brierley's alternate route); Day 2 - Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo - yes a real short day (if you a walking in June and time it right you might see the jousting festival); Day 3 - Orbigo to Astorga (another short day - but you can explore the Chocolate museum); Day 4 - Astorga to Rabanal (but you could easily make Foncebadon); Day 5 here you have choices - stopover in any of these three - Acebo (new albergue has a pool), Riego de Ambros (real quiet) or Molinaseca. If you start from Foncebadon you could push on to Ponferrada and explore the castle (but its closed on Mondays). From here on to Santiago its really up to you - you are really (well almost) spoilt for choice as to stopping place although I must recommend Casa Susi at Trabadelo (brand new albergue operated by an Australian women who did much of the renovation works herself). For me I would avoid stopping in either Villafranca del Bierzo or Sarria (I am not taken by either town). Hope this helps you with your planning. Cheers and buen Camino!!
 
My vote would be Astorga. The problem it isn't too far from Leon, so if you're staying there perhaps another rest so soon isn't what you're looking for. We enjoyed Villafranca in 2014. If you are there in Summer you can spend one of he days bathing in the river and hanging out on the grassy slope by the river with the locals.
After that you may consider Samos. It isn't a place that you need to stay too long (it's not big and there's little to see), but the peace at the monastery is perhaps worth the extra time before you hit Sarria and the throngs.
 
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That's easy. Rabinal.
The Benedictine monks there have a guest house where you can take retreat time.
Well, it would be my choice anyway, because I tend to the contemplative side of things.
Rabinal is a lovely little mountain town, with the monks offering glorious gregorian chants in the chapel to mark lauds and compline.
 
As VNwalking notes Rabanal is a very special place!

Imagine my surprise 17/11/2011 when entering that small Romanesque sanctuary to be greeted by cozy heat as well as the Abbot who smiled as he directly asked "Do you speak English?". When I nodded he then handed me a selection on St Elisabeth and love to read aloud during the service. After briefly scanning the passage, smoothing my hair, pulling down my anorak, and worrying that my wooly pants might look too messy, I went "live" in front of the assembled other pilgrims and parish members. After the service we all filed out into the frosty night.

...Next morning cold fog swirled white and dense throughout the village. The local bread delivery truck was parked where the camino continues westward. Dressed in "civies" the Abbot was buying two huge loaves for his monastery. As we nodded to each other I thanked him for the past evening's service; he wished me a spiritual Buen Camino and then disappeared into the white.

After our brief encounters each of us would follow his/her own path alone into the fog blanketed unknown.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I'm planning on hiking the camino de frances sometime during June - August (don't have official dates yet). I would like to rest once a week.
My current idea is to spend 2 nights in Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos and then finally Leon - does this seem reasonable or too much?
Between Leon and Santiago there seems to be quite a long stretch. Where would anybody recommend resting? Is there a particularly scenic town somewhere in the middle of the two?
I loved the food and buzz of Logroño, a short walk from Viana, another fascinating town..I did stay 2 nights in Astorga.. arriving on market day seduced me to a two night rest in an hotel. The Guadi was fabulous, the cathedral synical..I went in to celebrate Mass, but was told I had to sit whilst awaiting the service and pay to visit, via the museum, later..I speak good Spanish and was astounded at the reception! If you do decide to eat the traditional food of Astorga, do so at lunchtime! The heaving plates of boiled meat, chickpeas and cabbage were not good for sleeping when I foolishly had it for supper!
I'm already planning my next Camino and will definitely walk shorter stages and explore more next time.
 
It is hard to recommend a place because a lot depends on your walking pace, fitness, and what you plan on doing. We had originally planned on taking a rest day in Molinesca after coming down the mountain. Instead we did not stay in Molinesca and pushed on to Ponferrada. We overnighted there without a rest day, then took a shorter walking day to Cacabelos, and then an even shorter day to Villafranca del Bierzo where we vegged most of the day. We found mixing longer walks with shorter ones was more beneficial for us.
 
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I loved Logroño only just over a couple of hours from Viana which I also thoroughly enjoyed ( eating my first ever pig's ear tapa and getting a taste for orujo hierbas! The advice about walking shorter stages is the best advice...I took five and a half weeks in spring on my first Camino. What I learned was that next time ( hopefully end of September next year) I'll happily take ten weeks! I did spend two nights in Astorga, but found it over rated, save for the Gaudi house.
I think two nights in Leon and Burgos would be worthwhile.. especially for the black pudding of Burgos.
 
I loved Logroño only just over a couple of hours from Viana which I also thoroughly enjoyed ( eating my first ever pig's ear tapa and getting a taste for orujo hierbas! The advice about walking shorter stages is the best advice...I took five and a half weeks in spring on my first Camino. What I learned was that next time ( hopefully end of September next year) I'll happily take ten weeks! I did spend two nights in Astorga, but found it over rated, save for the Gaudi house.
I think two nights in Leon and Burgos would be worthwhile.. especially for the black pudding of Burgos.
 
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@PixieAuror
I'm with @VNwalking and @mspath on this. It depends on what you are looking for but for quiet time to pray and study, Rabanal, in the monastery physically next door to the CSJ Albergue Gaucelmo, is unbeatable. They are very hospitable and have a fine small library. They have a monastic guest house where you can stay but ONLY generally if you stay for two nights. This sets it apart from regular albergues. I am slightly biased as the Abbot and I were work colleagues for many years, in another continent.
http://en.monteirago.org/camino/rabanal--a-spiritual-centre-on-the-camino-de-santiago
You would need to contact them in advance if you wished to stay.
Oh I have just checked the website and see they now specify a minimum stay of three days. It may be still worth discussing with them if it appeals to you.
Having said all of that, I never found much time for study along the Camino.....;)
Oh and again see this page, which specifies two days in the albergue-like section:
http://en.monteirago.org/monastery/the-mater-salutis-hospital/welcome-of-pilgrims
 
Ponferrada. I love this city. Visit the Templars castle. But, as others have stated the camino will tell you when to rest based upon many factors: friends made while walking, your body, et cetera.
Buen camino.
I agree, Ponferrada is the place. I was waylaid there by injury and spent the extra night. I did some errands and found that everywhere I went people were very nice and helpful. The Templar Castle (free on Wednesdays I found) was super but it was the people in town I met, whether looking for a new book or sandals that made it a place to return to for me.

Astorga is nice too, I enjoyed the town and spent my 50th birthday there but only stayed one night.
 
@PixieAuror
I'm with @VNwalking and @mspath on this. It depends on what you are looking for but for quiet time to pray and study, Rabanal, in the monastery physically next door to the CSJ Albergue Gaucelmo, is unbeatable. They are very hospitable and have a fine small library. They have a monastic guest house where you can stay but ONLY generally if you stay for two nights. This sets it apart from regular albergues. I am slightly biased as the Abbot and I were work colleagues for many years, in another continent.
http://en.monteirago.org/camino/rabanal--a-spiritual-centre-on-the-camino-de-santiago
You would need to contact them in advance if you wished to stay.
Oh I have just checked the website and see they now specify a minimum stay of three days. It may be still worth discussing with them if it appeals to you.
Having said all of that, I never found much time for study along the Camino.....;)
Oh and again see this page, which specifies two days in the albergue-like section:
http://en.monteirago.org/monastery/the-mater-salutis-hospital/welcome-of-pilgrims
Not sure whether to thank you or not @TimRozgonyi. I didn’t want to walk the CF again and probably wont but if I ever do, this stay at Rabanal will be high on my list. Sounds like bliss. :)
 
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I’m another fan of short days and/or staying a night on the edge of big cities and then short walk into town and stay that night in town. For example you can have a wonderful night’s stay at Trinidad de Arre 4 kms before Pamplona. Easy walk the next morning, look around during the day, stay that night at Pamplona and if wanted also stay the next morning and then walk on. It’s only 5 km from Pamplona to Cizur Minor. Worked well for me for all the big centres including Santiago with the exception of Burgos.
Have a very buen camino.
 
I wouldn't plan any specific rest places.
Just have a few in mind like some of those shared above.
When your body says rest............rest.
It will tell you quite clearly if you are listening.....

I went 14 days to my first rest, Burgos. But I walk slowly.
Then I needed to rest up or have short days more often.
There were some days I had a short day or a full rest day and hated it.
I would pace around, wanting to be away from the crowds and out on the open road again.
But I knew my body needed the rest :oops:
 
That's easy. Rabinal.
The Benedictine monks there have a guest house where you can take retreat time.
Well, it would be my choice anyway, because I tend to the contemplative side of things.
Rabinal is a lovely little mountain town, with the monks offering glorious gregorian chants in the chapel to mark lauds and compline.

Sounds wonderful. Do you have to be staying with them to attend lauds and compline?
I'm not sure I could stay anywhere that demanded my dearly beloved to be silent.
Much as my enjoy it. :D
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Do you have to be staying with them to attend lauds and compline?
No! They sing the offices in the little chapel near Albergue Gaucelmo, and all are welcome to attend. It is very very special. And albergues are not the only place in town to stay. There is a nice small hotel with a restaurant up the road a little.
 
In addition to the excellent options already given, I will throw in a recommendation for El Acebo - there is a new alberque there as you are leaving town that is beautiful - and you can spend more than 1 night if you like. They have rooms with bunks as well as private rooms. There's a beautiful terrace, a lawn and a pool. Some of the people we were walking with stayed another night there - we should have too.
 
Hi all thanks so much for all these suggestions. I'll be sure to do my research and pick one.
 
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I took one rest day during my first Camino, and it felt weird not to get up and walk in the morning. I didn't take any rest days on this year's Camino, just a few shorter days, and I preferred that.
 

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