Camino Sanabres - our Camino starting on the VdeP in Zamora and then leading onto the Camino Sanabres
As with most aspects relating to the Camino, while this was intended to be a brief summary, personal enthusiasm once again took over, so please be tolerant if this is slightly tedious. I do, however, hope that it will be informative and possibly helpful.
As with our two previous walks on the Camino, the main protagonist was my daughter, now 10 years and 4 months old, who despite the distances and the heat has shown that this Camino is feasible. And as with the past two years, she demonstrated that with enthusiasm and determination, the Camino is possible for peregrinos of various ages.
Distances of each 'etapa'. This is returning to a topic previously written about, and which seems to be a common theme for many. Different distances appear in different reports, sometimes with significant differences. This year we walked with an Apple iPhone, which has an all-singing-and-dancing app built in, that records the daily distance covered, number of steps walked as well as the number of equivalent flights of stairs climbed. This app may or may not be accurate, though the recordings that we had more or less matched those recorded by another peregrino who was also carrying an iPhone. Those distances that we recorded rarely coincided with what we had planned and which had been based on information recorded from on-line pages/forums. I believe that the differences we experienced may in part be because of the many deviations caused by the construction of the very recently completed AP 66 and also because of the continuing construction of the high speed rail link (AVE) that will eventually run from Madrid to Santiago. For both of these works the historic Camino has been sliced through and diverted so many times, and the kindest that I can write is that these diversions have not benefited or enhanced in any way the Camino.
While our walk on the Camino Primitivo in 2014 was blessed with relatively cool weather, this years walk was a scorcher, especially at the beginning.
Day 1: arrival in Zamora, via a flight to Valladolid. Zamora is a really lovely town, and while we walked a good part of it, would have liked to have been able to stay longer and explore more of it. We obtained our first 'sello' for the credencial at the Cathedral, and felt that our Camino had really started. Stayed at the wonderful Albergue, ideally located near the Cathedral in the historic centre, and began to really appreciate the differences between a Municipal and volunteer run Albergue. Ate a delicious supper at Los Caprichos de Meneses, and made it back in the nick of time for the 10:00pm curfew at the Albergue.
Day 2: Zamora - Riego del Camino
started walking at 6:25am arrival 5:33pm
Recorded distance 45.26kms / 56758 steps walked
A very challenging first day, which began badly as we failed to make a 'clean' exit from the centre of Zamora. The 'conchas' set in to the pavement seemed to be offering two different possibilities for leaving Zamora, and with no one around to ask, we spent a while before becoming correctly orientated. I had planned on a day that was a little over 33kms in distance, and this was way beyond that plan. Large deviations for both the road and the AVE made for a long and very hot day. Finally arrived at Riego del Camino, a very non-descript and small town. Took time to find the Albergue, which if indicated at all, we failed to see any sign for, and once at the door there is little to suggest that this is an Albergue. Had to telephone to the Hospitalera - the friendly Dorita - who finally came and we were let in. We were the only people staying, and given it's condition we were not surprised, though mercifully we had hot water for a shower. We went to eat at the only place that there is in this town, Bar Pepe, for what was to be one of the worst meals of my life. Despite the friendly Dorita, very strongly recommend avoiding this small town altogether !
Day 3: Riego del Camino - Tábara
started walking at 6:44am arrival 4:33pm
Recorded distance 35.46kms / 45651 steps walked
Another day that was longer then envisaged, and with little escape from the unrelenting heat. On arriving in Tábara, it was a call between staying at the Albergue or a place called El Roble. The Albergue is inconveniently located about 1km from the centre of Tábara, removed from the bars and eating possibilities, so we decided to walk back to the centre and stay at El Roble. Acceptable food, and certainly compared with the previous nights supper, it seemed a feast.
Day 4: Tábara - Calzadilla de Tera
started walking at 6:04am arrival 5:16pm
Recorded distance 40.58kms / 50956 steps walked
After achieving an early start, this became a very long and very hot day that seemed to have no end. The final distance was once again longer than planned, once again not helped by the municipal Albergue being located at least 1km distance from the Camino. Once again, we had to locate the key holder to let us in, involving more traipsing about the town. And once again, we were the only peregrinos staying. While recently built, the characterless building is located next to a children's play area, and there was a lot of noise from the children who continued playing until about mid-night. Another negative is that while there is a small shop on 'this side of the river', there was a need to cross the bridge to the other side, where Calzada de Tera is located. It may seem absurd, but the 3kms there and back so as to eat was quite a challenge after our long and hot day on the Camino. And the supper at Bar Blanco, which offered a 'Menu Peregrino', was quite mediocre in quality and quantity. Had we had the benefit of hindsight, we would have continued and kept to the Camino and walked the 2km approx to the private Albergue La Trucha, in Olleros de Tera. Despite the extra initial distance on the Camino, over the length of the day we would almost certainly have saved ourselves distance and time, and probably eaten better.
Day 5: Calzadilla de Tera - Rionegro del Puente
started walking at 7:13am arrival 1:04pm
Recorded distance 19.82kms / 24556 steps walked
After the previous three days, this seemed such an easy day. We walked through the largely abandoned village of Vilar de Farfón, and came across the wonderful small, private Albergue Rehoboth, run by Craig and his wife Dorothea along with their children. Their story is extraordinary, and Craig generously gave of his time and gave us a brief synopsis while I had a mug of tea and my daughter munched biscuits. Rehoboth is a gloriously restored farm house that now can accommodate 4 peregrinos, but while we stayed for the chat and tea, we eventually pushed on to stay at the Albergue in Rionegro. And here we finally meet with other peregrinos, although very few, staying at the wonderful Albergue in Rionegro. The young daughter went for a swim down in the river, while I put my toes in. Despite being mid-summer with all the heat, the water felt icy cold. The Church in Rionegro, the Santuario de la Carballeda was open in the late afternoon, and worth a visit. We had a lunch of unexciting and relatively expensive tapas at Bar Palacio, located near the Albergue, and later had a stunning supper at the bar/restaurant just across the road from the Albergue. This is part of an a group 'Asociación gastronómica ('Me gusta comer')' and can only be described as one of the best menu de Pelegrino that can be had on any Camino. This is a place that should be sought out, as eating here cannot be regretted.
Day 6: Rionegro del Puente - Asturianos
started walking at 6:57am arrival 14:34pm
Recorded distance 32.42kms / 39155 steps walked
We had intended to stay at the small Albergue in San Salvador de Palazuelo, but there are no bars, shops or eating opportunities there, so we went further to the Municipal Albergue in Asturianos. This is a hideous, characterless, soulless industrial monster of a building and once again located away from the actual Camino, and yet once inside, the facilities are cramped; there are no kitchen facilities and the food served at the nearby bar was mediocre. Not for the first or only time I was left wondering as to why no imagination had been used to renovate and convert an existing, abandoned building within the nucleus of the town and so make that in to an Albergue ? On the main road within Asturianos, the small Ermita of Nuestra Señora del Carmen is worth an appreciative glance, though was closed when we passed. We ate that evening at Bar Meson El Carmen, located on the main road, having yet another disappointing Menu de Peregrino.
Day 7: Asturianos - Puebla de Sanabria
started walking at 7:24am arrival 11:28am
Recorded distance 17.87kms / 22003 steps walked
A later start as this was going to be a relatively short days walking, as the destination, Puebla de Sanabria was a place I wanted us to see. Though there is no municipal or Church Albergue, there are several accommodation possibilities in Puebla de Sanabria, including the private Albergue Casa Luz, which is where we stayed. With excellent facilities for the cycling peregrino, the Hospitalero seemed determined to be unwelcoming to everyone. Additionally, it was reasonably crowded, as 5 walking peregrinos were starting from this town, and there were about 11 on bicycle. The hotel almost opposite, Hotel La Trucha, would be where I would choose if walking this way again, as for very few euros more there would be less cramped accommodation that would be very much quieter. The hill-top town of Puebla de Sanabria is very worthwhile spending time in, while my daughter once again enjoyed dipping in to the icy cold river that lies below the old town.
Day 8: Puebla de Sanabria - Lubián
started walking at 6:15am arrival 14:22pm
Recorded distance 30.87kms / 38304 steps walked
This was an early start, in part prompted by others waking very early and making their own quite noisy exits. So we walked out and up from Puebla de Sanabria in the darkness and a cold air that was totally unexpected. Having spent so much time during the previous days being 'cooked' under the sun, the extraordinary cold of this morning was a physical shock. Once the sun fully emerged, it did not take long before the heat of August began to be felt once again. A delightful days walk, with many opportunities for picking blackberries along the way. The arrival at Lubián revealed a really lovely small town, with a beautiful and recently restored church that was open, with very uplifting recorded hymns playing. Having passed so many churches that were closed, this was a very welcome moment. While we walked around the small town, we failed to make the short walk up out of the town to see the ancient wolf trap that gives the town its name. With the exception of the many flies plaguing the Albergue, and despite the disturbances caused by the construction of the AVE, Lubián was one of the most pleasantly memorable stops on this Camino.
Day 9: Lubián - A Gudiña
The day we left Castilla y Leon and entered Galicia.
started walking at 8:01am arrival 14:19pm
Recorded distance 30.26kms / 43600 steps walked
Despite a good part of the walk being on the road, and the final entrance into A Gudiña being very unpleasant, this was in large part a lovely walk. Some very memorable and varied sections, the walk down from Lubián was lovely, passing the isolated Santuario de la Tuiza, before gently (!) rising to the high point of A Canda. We had been passed by several bicycles on our descent, only to come across them on the way up, as they manoeuvred and pushed their bicycles upwards. The final section of the etapa, entering A Gudiña was dusty and hideous, and while A Gudiña has some attractive elements (and a cash point!), we decided that this was not that pleasant a town. It is certainly not helped by the consequences of the construction of the AVE, which gave the place a sort of being a dusty frontier town. We did, however, have the most amazing bocadillos, which were huge and very good, in Bar Peregrino, conveniently located close to the Albergue. We were alarmed by a large sign that suggested that the planned walk for the following day, which was to Laza, had been diverted because of the AVE works and we would now need to pass through Verin. This seemed a very large diversion, and away from what we understood to be a very attractive etapa. Some locals told us to ignore the sign, and said that the route to Laza was open, so we chose to follow their advice for our next days walking. Perhaps worth noting that during the night, at about 11.30pm, two young chaps arrived on what I was told were expensive bicycles, claiming to have just finished their etapa of the day. They wanted to be let in, but their credencial was apparently free of sellos. All, very strange, though we were later told that there is a problem with theft at the Albergue in A Gudiña, and there may or may not be a connection with these two chaps.
Day 10: A Gudiña - Laza
started walking at 6:06am arrival 15:20pm
Recorded distance 39.20kms 47624 steps walked
A great start to the day, with a quick coffee and croissant in the Bar Peregrino before leaving A Gudiña, and a very pleasant days walk through some stunning scenery. The works for the AVE are visible, but did not disturb too much the actual Camino, except for a section descending into Campobecerros. We stopped for a rather bad coffee at the fly infested Bar de Rosario in Campobecerros, though the bocadillo was quite tasty. There is a small Albergue in Campobecerros, which we did not look in on, but chose to push on to Laza. We passed an extraordinary place, where drinks, fruit and refreshments had been left outside for peregrinos to choose from and pay on a donativo basis. This was a very, very welcome stop on this hot day. The small town of Laza is a mixture of historic and unsightly modern, and once again the Albergue fell into the latter category. Once more, an Albergue that is located slightly outside of the town, the building, with walls of large sheets of glass, was as hot as an oven under the blazing August sun. Registration and completion of the credencial is not at the Albergue, but at the office of the Protección Civil, to be found on the right when first entering the town. The church in Laza was, sadly, closed.
Day 11: Laza - Vilar de Barrio
started at 5:57am arrived at 11:59am
Recorded distance 25.33kms / 31520 steps walked
In the dark of the early morning, I regretted having not given attention to the paper that we had been given the previous day at the office of the Protección Civil, which detailed the exit from the town. I had left the page behind, and now in the darkness and not seeing conchas, flechas or way markers, struggled to get confidence that we were on the right way. With a great deal of hesitancy, and some back-tracking, we finally gained orientation and were on our way from Laza. While not nearly as cold as the previous morning, it was not a warm pre-dawn air that we walked through. We had the slow climb up to Alberguería, a very pleasant walk through the early morning mist that was, for us, reminiscent of sections of the Hospitales route on the Camino Primitivo. We emerged at the top to return to a further section that was on road, pausing for a break at the Albergue El Rincón del Peregrino, where we added to the extraordinary number of signed conchas that adorn every surface of the place. The rest of the short day was further pleasant walking to our destination at Vilar de Barrio. Once again, an Albergue that was recently constructed, with much of the exterior walls built with sheets of glass, and consequently very hot inside. Apart from 3 cyclists from Pamplona, we were the only peregrinos staying that night. The Hospitalera may have been having a bad day, but was quite unfriendly, and her explanation for the complete lack of utensils being the result of theft by previous peregrinos does not feel the whole story, as why is it the case that some Albergues have crockery and cutlery, while others have hardly anything or nothing at all. We had been directed to lunch at a place almost opposite the Albergue, the unmarked Casa Carmiña, but were very, very disappointed with the Menu de Peregrino and wished that we had ate elsewhere. Once again, the local church was closed.
Day 12: Vilar de Barrio - Xunqueira de Ambia
started walking at 8:45am arrival 12:26pm
Recorded distance 16.17kms / 20220 steps walked
Having began the day much later then usual, and having also had a coffee before leaving, along with being a short walking day, this felt an unusual day. The Albergue in Xunqueira de Ambia was another architectural disappointment, a mixture of concrete and weathered steel located at least 1km from the centre of the town; we had to finally telephone so as to be let in. The small town of Xunqueira de Ambia is a delight, and well worth taking the time to walk around, and for once we found that the Church was open (the Church and Monastery of Santa María la Real - both wonderful), and I was fortunate enough to be able to climb up the Church bell tower. However, yet again, we left wondering why the Albergue is so removed from the town, and with so many historic buildings not in use within the centre of the town, why one of these buildings had not been converted for use as an albergue. One of the other negatives of this Alburgue we were later to discover during the night, as any movement outside of the dormitory automatically activated the lights in the passage and the bathrooms, which disturbed my sleep. We had a brief look in at Casa Miraval, a beautiful and historic building located close to the Church, and which offers accommodation at a very reasonable price - worth considering as an alternative to the Albergue. We ate very well at the Cafe-Bar Guede - the Menu de Peregrino is highly recommended !
Day 13: Xunqueira de Ambia - Ourense
started walking at 7:13am arrival 14:23pm
Recorded distance 18.14kms / 27425 steps walked
This was a day with significant stretches walked on the road, and the challenges of walking into most large towns/cities, in this instance in to Ourense. We finally found the Albergue, which is everything that we had missed since leaving Zamora. An historic building, the Convento de San Francisco, which has been sympathetically converted in to the Albergue, was overseen by a very friendly Hospitalero. The cloisters (claustro) of the former Convento are well worth the visit, and the historic parts of the town of Ourense are worth spending time in. As we were being joined in Ourense by my wife for the final etapas towards Santiago, we had already planned to stay in Ourense an additional day. There was plenty to see, and we included a visit to the thermal springs located not far from the city centre, a short walk across the Roman bridge to the opposite banks of the River Miño. Stunningly hot springs of varying temperatures emerging from the ground right alongside the shockingly cold water of the river, it certainly felt invigorating to plunge into the river following lying in the hot water. Our second night in Ourense was in the Hotel Altiana, very conveniently located near to both the centre of the town and the walk to the thermal springs, as well as very close to the actual Camino. Recommended, along with most of the historic parts of Ourense, which is a lovely place, and well worth our passing the additional day.
Day 15: Ourense - San Cristovo de Cea
Started walking at 6:30am arrival at 12:11pm
Recorded distance 24.26kms / 29514 steps walked
Another of those days that started so well, with coffee and the most fantastic toast at the Cafeteria Niza, which was already open as we passed at a little after 6am. IMHO, this was the breakfast start to the day that merits the Breakfast of the Camino award, and if you believe that all toast is equal, then you have not been here (Cafeteria Niza, Progresso 64). A great breakfast is always a good start to the day, and this was no exception. We once again headed across the lovely bridge and out of Ourense. We were then confronted with two options for continuing the Camino - turn right or continue straight ahead. Turning right is via Cudeiro, while continuing ahead is via Mandrás. We chose to continue walking straight ahead, and the rather long and quite steep climb on road up to Mandrás. This was quite a challenging first day for my wife. Having had such a good breakfast before leaving Ourense, we did not stop at Casa César in O Reguengo, but did stop for a coffee at the bar in Mandras, before passing through Casanova, where we were able to buy a large loaf of Cea bread directly from the baker, and then shortly later finishing in Cea itself. This was one of the few Albergues that ticked most of my personal boxes : an historic building, very sympathetically converted, located close to the centre and a kitchen that was equipped with the basics. A very sympathetic Hospitalero with a love for the Camino oversaw the place, though the negative was that the interior warranted a deep cleaning, while at an early hour in the morning, at 5.40am, the lights within the dormitory automatically came on, though a quite soft light, mercifully, as we were 'sleeping-in-late'!
Day 16: San Cristovo de Cea - Monasterio de Oseira
Started walking at 8:25am arrival at 12:11pm
Recorded distance 11.81kms / 14896 steps walked
One of those poor decisions was to go to the Bar/Cafe Sol y Luna in Cea, which had promoted that it provided early morning breakfast to peregrinos. After the phenomenal early breakfast that we had enjoyed in Ourense, this was a let down. Slow in arriving, the coffee was ordinary, the toast as hard as a board and the jam was mostly syrup. And not cheap - so strongly advise ignoring this place. With such a short day, we did not walk at a strong pace, and passed beautiful scenery as we headed to the Monasterio de Oseira. The Albuergue is run by the monastery, and is quite spartan, but what it may lack in comfort is made up for the beauty of the Monasterio, the warmth of the welcome of the Hospitalero and the location. And how often is one able to sleep the night within what was once a large chapel. The place is incredible and enormous - we were told that it is the second largest Monastery in Spain. We felt totally privileged to be staying here and to be able to join with the few monks that currently live at the Monasterio for their morning and evening service. This detour was, we strongly felt, very worthwhile, though when we were there the eating possibilities at the two nearby bars was limited to bocadillos.
Day 17: Monasterio de Oseira - A Laxe
Started walking at 6:01am arrival at 15:11pm
Recorded distance 34.17kms / 43774 steps walked
This was a much longer walking day then that which was expected, with a few deviations for the construction of the AVE, and the final part of the walk to A Laxe seemed to take for ever. The sello from the Albergue in the Credencial states Albergue de Lalin, but this seemed quite removed from the town of Lalin. I was also told that it is known as Albuergue de Bendoiro. The Albergue has a stunning architectural design, combining very harmoniously the varies materials used in the construction. The place is enormous, and the interior is quite impractical, with huge areas for sitting in, but the dormitories relatively small. We were exhausted and wanted a late siesta, though my deep sleep and dream were soon broken by some major commotion downstairs. I descended to see what was happening, to find that one of the large rest areas had been taken over by a children's dance class. There is "Mariá José", a bar/restaurant about half a kilometre or so away from the Albergue, or the much longer walk of about 2 or more kms to get to Bar/Supermercado Xeitoso in the direction of Santiso. I chose to go to the latter, and stock up on food to prepare our supper at the Albergue, which had an enormous kitchen. The real challenges of this incredibly poorly and strangely located Albergue were to be discovered during the night, when we were all seriously bitten by quite vicious mosquitoes.
Day 18: A Laxe - Outeiro (Vedra)
Started walking at 7:02am arrival at 17:42pm
Recorded distance 42.31kms / 53141 steps walked
The distance recorded reflects some doubling back by myself, as I had left the wife and daughter to walk together, and walked ahead before walking back to join them. We had a damp start to the day, with what we were told were the first rains to fall since late May. After the many long days of heat and more heat, the rain was very welcome, and it felt strange to be finally using our ponchos. We stopped for a good coffee in the very recently opened Bar Gerardo, located about 50metres before the Church of Santiago de Taboada. An unusual church, which opens most days at 9.00am for peregrinos to visit. While the church would be hard to miss, one needs to look for the Bar Gerardo, which is located immediately on the right after climbing the path, which emerges onto the road just before the Church. There was a need to use the ATM in Silleda, before continuing the descent to Bandeiro and the stronger descent to Pont Ulla. At Pont Ulla, on the path that leads to the bridge, carefully look out on the path for the very small frogs, about the size of a 1€ coin. There is a choice between a private Albergue in Pont Ulla or ascending to the Albergue in Outeiro. Having been advised that it was best to take food with us, we stocked up in the large Dia supermarket before the final stretch leading to the Albergue. Oh my goodness, another architectural jewel, strangely located and with a Hospitalera, Pilar, who we later learned had a reputation that was not positive, and who was fretting in the extreme as wet peregrinos entered. She appears to be operating the Albergue as a personal fiefdom and commercial venture, preparing supper for the captive peregrinos who have almost all arrived with little or nothing to eat. And once again, we were all woken by the automatic lighting coming on at 5:45am, though unlike in Cea, this time it was a direct and harsh light. Major upset for everyone, as we were all solidly asleep.
Day 19: Outeiro (Vedra) - Santiago de Compestella
Started walking at 6.25am arrival at Santiago at
Recorded distance 20.08kms / 26329 steps walked
The final day, we started early, and once again there was a bit of damp in the air - far too light to call it drizzle, and too heavy to call it mist. It was a very poignant entry in to Santiago for my daughter and myself, as we passed over the foot bridge leading over the location where the tragic rail crash had taken place in 2013, just as we were then completing walking the Camino Ingles.
Santiago de Compestella was as wonderful as we remembered it and a joy to once again spend a couple of days staying.
