where to stop and sightsee from Leon to Santiago

[heitgl]

I'm doing my first camino alone in the end of September through mid-October. I have no plans yet and still have to buy my plane ticket from California. I have the basic guidebook, but I was hoping experienced walkers could tell me what towns to stop in and look around between Leon (where I plan to start) and Santiago. I don't want to be walking every day, I would like to have a few "tourist" days in the most interesting places along the way.

Also, can anyone tell me how long this walk will take me at that route if I walk about 5 hours a day


Thank you

 

[whariwharangi]

I'm doing my first camino alone in the end of September through mid-October. I have no plans yet and still have to buy my plane ticket from California. I have the basic guidebook, but I was hoping experienced walkers could tell me what towns to stop in and look around between Leon (where I plan to start) and Santiago. I don't want to be walking every day, I would like to have a few "tourist" days in the most interesting places along the way.

Also, can anyone tell me how long this walk will take me at that route if I walk about 5 hours a day


Thank you

Astorga is an interesting place to visit.

The Castle in Ponferrada was closed when I went through. It looked interesting.

Pretty much all the towns are steeped in history with works of architecture, museums, works of art.

Too, the scenery between Astorga and Molinaseca could be enjoyed for several days.

I stayed several days in Fisterra ... lots of oceanside to explore and decompress from walking too much.

How far can you walk in an hour? Mulitply times 5.

 

[KinkyOne]

Hi, heitgl!

I don't really know how fast you can (or usually do) walk with 10kg backpack but would say that on average it is 4km/hour. On some parts you will walk faster and on other parts (uphills and downhills to/from Cruz de Ferro or O'Cebreiro for example) slower. So if you walk 20km/day that will be 16+ days to SdC (325km) and 4 more days to Finisterre.

Ultreia!

 

[mspath]

heitgl,

You must be excited as you plan your Camino! September will be here very shortly!

Be sure to check out what other pilgrims have posted regarding walking in early autumn and leaving from Leon; for more information on September weather, an alternate route to avoid suburban sprawl and visiting the handsome contemporary church at Virgen del Camino see this earlier Forum thread >> el-camino-frances/topic14974.html

Happy planning and Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[Deleted member 3000]

One scenario:

Day Stage Part (km) Cum (km) Lodge
1) León - Villadangos del Páramo 20.1 20.1 R, C, H
2) Villadangos del Páramo - San Justo de la Vega 24.7 44.8 H
3) San Justo de la Vega - Rabanal del Camino 23.8 68.6 2R, 2P, C, H
4) Rabanal del Camino - El Acebo 16.6 85.2 R, 2P
5) El Acebo - Ponferrada 16.1 101.3 R, H
6) Ponferrada - Villafranca del Bierzo 22.5 123.8 R, 2P, C, H
7) Villafranca del Bierzo - Las Herrerías 20.3 144.1 P, H
8) Las Herrerías - Fonfría 20.1 164.2 P, H
9) Fonfría - Samos 18.9 183.1 R, 2P
10) Samos - Barbadelo 19 202.1 R, 2P, H
11) Barbadelo - Portomarín 18.3 220.4 R, 6P, H
12) Portomarín - Palas de Rei 24.8 245.2 2R, 2P, C, H
13) Palas de Rei - Ribadiso da Baixo 25.8 271 R, P
14) Ribadiso da Baixo - O Pedrouzo (FR 500 m) 21.6 292.6 R, 4P, H
15) O Pedrouzo (FR 500 m) - Santiago de Compostela 20.1 312.7 2R, 8P, C, H
Abbreviations
R: pilgrims public hostel.
P: pilgrims private hostel.
A: youth hostel.
C: campsite.
H: hotel, hostel, guesthouse...
FR: off-route.

http://www.godesalco.com/plan/frances

 

[scruffy1]

Isn't that 'falcon something awful? He figured it all out perfectly - however - let me add some few small comments - don't even consider leaving Leon without seeing the Basilica of San Isidoro and yes take the guided tour even if in Spanish and you don't understand a single word- thousand year old frescos can speak for themselves. The cathedral in Leon is also something you must see but is absolutely and totally overwhelming, get a good guidebook before arriving try "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago" by Gilitz and Davidson a rather large book available now on Kindle good for Leon and all the rest of the way as well-so much to see and do on the Camino one shouldn't allow it all to pass as nice music and pretty lights-this is not DisneyWorld!
Now for local color- Villafranca del Bierzo nice place wonderful wines try the red it is wonderful the white Godello even better - Galicia and Rias Baixas wines especially the exquisite and expensive Albariño and again the less expensive Godello. Pulpo - octopus - boiled grilled with olive oil and paprika the world is divided between those who love it and those who wouldn't eat it with your teeth! The books recommend Ezekiel in Melide which is good enough a much better offering may be found at the tavern in O'Cebreiro. If not sure order media-a half portion.
PS The Templar Fortress in Ponferrada must also be counted among the DisneyWorld attractions expensive and tiring.

 

[heitgl]

Thank you all for your replies! I finally made a booking arriving into Madrid on October 2 then I think I will start in Ponferrada (still need to figure out how to get there) the next day if I'm not too jet lagged! I leave from Madrid on October 16 so I think that should give me enough time. I hope to make it (at least by bus) to Muxia an/or Fisterra. Just wish I had more time!

 

[KiwiNomad06]

try "The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago" by Gilitz and Davidson a rather large book available now on Kindle

Thanks Scruffy- great piece of info to know that- and why does it not surprise me that you of all people know it?! That makes the book so much more accessible while walking, and I am sure lots of people would find it interesting.
Margaret

 

[mspath]

To add what has been posted above I HIGHLY recommend tasting the glorious wines of Bierzo in Villafranca del Bierzo at the restaurant/hotel La Puerta del Perdon . The hotel/restaurant is named after the nearby doorway of the tiny 12thcentury chapel known as the Puerta del Pardon; medieval pilgrims who stopped at the chapel too sick to continue were pardoned with the same indulgences as in Santiago de Compostela. Located on the CF east of the town opposite the castle and just after the municipal albergue and Ave Felix they do a splendid menu de dia everyday but Monday. I have never stayed here but often have been tempted.

Margaret Meredith

 

[JennyH94]

Hi Heitgl - 'hope your plans are coming together now and that you have your flights booked. Some of the highlights of my Camino last year were -

1. Seeing David at his Cantina of the Gods between Hospital de Orbigo and Astorga. David has a refreshment stand on the side of the path which is well known with pilgrims. Most stop, take a break and chat with him - he's a really cool guy.
2. Astorga is beautiful - the Bishop's Palace is well worth a visit and you could easily spend the best part of an afternoon here. The chocolate in Astorga is amazing - so stock up with your favourites!
3. Tomas, the last Knight Templar, lives near the deserted village of Manjarin. He has a very basic albergue and chapel there, and has a small shop where you can buy Camino products. He, like David, is one of the Camino's gems. You'll see the signs as you pass by.
4. The Templar Castle at Ponferrada is fabulous - very easy to lose yourself for half a day here. You can walk up on the ramparts and you get a beautiful rooftop view of the surrounding buildings from this height. The museum in the castle is wonderful too.
5. Try to allow an extra couple of days in Santiago de Compostela ... so much to see and do here in addition to the overwhelming Pilgrims' Mass with the swinging of the botafumeiro at the Cathedral. I think there's another thread on the Forum which is headed '20 Things to see and do in Santiago de Compostela', or words to that effect - it's worth checking it out. I believe you can even do a guided tour of the luxurious Parador de los Reyes Catolicos which is on the same square, Praza do Obrodoiro, as the Cathedral. The Parador is reputed to be the oldest hotel in the world and it dates back to 1499 from memory.

'Hope this helps - Buen Camino! Jenny

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Seeing David at his Cantina of the Gods between Hospital de Orbigo and Astorga. David has a refreshment stand on the side of the path which is well known with pilgrims. Most stop, take a break and chat with him - he's a really cool guy.

No water or well, no electricity, no toilets. No sanitation. Stick to the packaged items, or the ones that have been boiled.

Tomas, the last Knight Templar, lives near the deserted village of Manjarin. He has a very basic albergue and chapel there, and has a small shop where you can buy Camino products. He, like David, is one of the Camino's gems.

Latrine in the same location for a decade. Recent electricity, but only to the building Tomas lives in. Well water from the vicinity of the latrine. Stop for the camino experience, but it is not on many lists of places to stay. The story for years was that he was insane, but after to talke with him, his Knight Templar act is like the moving statues in Santiago -- just an act.