Why do you stay in albergues??

[grayland]

Why do you stay in albergues? Do you enjoy it??
Is it for the price? Is it because you like the bunks? Snoring? Shared bathrooms?
Is it for the comradeship of other pilgrims? Penitence for past sins?
I am curious why some people actually choose to stay in albergues even when they can easily afford other type accommodations from time to time.

I actually do both, but some people seem to believe that not staying in albergues cheapens the experience and is not a "real" Camino.

 

[jpflavin1]

Grayland:

I stay in Municipal Albergues, churches, convents etc. because, I believe, they represent the closest means today to the way previous pilgrims traveled the Camino. I also like the communal atmosphere of sharing meals, conversation and space with other Pilgrims.

That said, when I get to Santiago, I do enjoy the comfort of my own hotel room.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Anniesantiago]

What Joe said... exactly.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

When I go to Yosemite, I camp, though there is a nice hotel. On the Camino, I sleep in albergues. And price.

 

[newfydog]

James Michener, in his epic book "Iberia" describes the pilgrim of the 12th century. A half million a year made the trip, and they ranged from knights on horses, who brought their ladies, priests, and even Cardinals, with their attendants, criminals sentenced to penitence, merchants, thieves, terminally ill etc. They travelled in vastly different circumstances.

We try to mix it up--camping, albergues, private homes, paradores. When we took ferries across lakes in Switzerland, we just said "this is what an affluent pilgrim would have done". when we got lost and camped, eating berries for breakfast, we said "this is what other confused pilgrims have had to do. When we stay in an albergue and it is full of snorers, I'm just glad most of them had a shower and don't have lice.

There is no proper traditional way to do it. I like imagining them all.

 

[lynnejohn]

Although I'm not a purist on staying in albergues, I prefer it. Staying in albergues I feel immersed in the camino, it is easier to separate from my old life, and it really is key to developing relationships with other peregrinos. And I just really appreciate how it makes me feel more connected with the camino I am walking, both historically and spiritually.

And price.

 

[+@^^]

it never struck me that there was any other way
pilgrims = albergues
.
on my rest days
i stayed in hostals to do proper washing, sleep in clean sheets and soak myself in a real bath

 

[methodist.pilgrim.98]

I undertake the Camino as a spiritual exercise.

Part of that is to divest myself of as much of the clutter of civilisation as possible. That includes luxury and spending money.

I stay in the albergues to spend as little as possible while on the Way.

I have undertaken this discipline when I was working full-time and when on a medical retirement pension.

For my 50th birthday my sister paid for me and my wife to stay in the Hotel de Catolics de Reyes (sorry about the spelling) and in the end I hated it. I felt an intruder who did not belong there.

I also feel guilty because my feelings seem to me to be a kick in the teeth for my sister's wonderful generosity; anyone who mentions this to her will be joining St James in the crypt. + :shock:

I loved the fact that I have slept in the oldest pilgrim hostel in the world, let alone the Camino, but for the same money I could have walked from SJPP to SDC.

Stripping ones life down to the simplest and barest of necessities is a joy.

So wherever possible it is the albergue for me.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I tend not to sleep in albergues unless it is absolutely unavoidable - for example on certain routes where there is no alternative accommodation. I have a number of reasons for this.
First I am not able to sleep no matter how tired with the noises of 30 other strangers. Ear plugs don't help me but are essential for others sleeping in the same room as me.
Second I am so allergic that I'm the one who has to close all of the windows and in a dormitory plug in two or three ani mosiquito gizmos. Mosquito bites can take up to a month to disappear - a bite from a horse fly and I need to take antihistamines to curb the swelling. A night with bed bugs, despite preventative measures, would bring a pilgrimage to a shuddering halt. Let's not mention wasp stings - the last one had me in hospital for a week.
Perhaps more controversially I do not believe that albergues are necessarily an authentic representation of the life of a pilgrim of the middle ages - I suspect for those who provide albergues dormitories with bunk beds are simply the most economic method of providing accommodation for large numbers of people. These days, for example, those providing shelters for homeless people try to at least provide cubicle accommodation to reinforce the dignity of individuals.
Lastly when I was younger I had quite enough communal living experience under canvas and in dormitories to last me a life time! I now realise that pilgrimage is a state of mind not a method of sleeping.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I am with JW on this one. When I am a pilgrim I don´t stay in albergues if I can help it. I´ve had enough of spiders and dust and slimy showers, and now that I am older I have enough money to pay for a reasonably priced room of my own. I can enjoy the company of my fellow pilgrims without sharing a room with them at night.

I think albergues are akin to homeless shelters. They were meant for people without an alternative, but they´ve evolved into something much different, if not always much nicer.

 

[Arn]

All the above!!!

I stay where the Camino puts me on any given day. If it's a large city I know I have all the options. On a particular day of hot/cold/wet weather, long up hills, an enjoyable fellow pilgrim, or a desire to see someone special ( I still regret not visiting Reb and Patrick at the Peaceable Kingdom in 2008) that's where I'll stay.

Besides, as I've said many, many times...I have a plan...so does the Camino!

Advantage...Camino!!!

Buen Camino

Arn

 

[jirit]

Where I stay depends on a number of factors including the people I have traveling with, my mood at that time, the type of accommodation, location along the route, and the experiences desired.

There are plenty of albergues I have enjoyed staying in, and plenty I rather not stay in again. Some have lots of characters, others are simply run down, some are large cold institutional places, other cute and cozy places full of great atmosphere.

But the same can be said for all types of accommodation, but after 30 days of walking you are bound to stay in places that you remember for years to come - good and bad.

But I must admit, have a real bias against staying in tourist hotels since in the my former days of business traveling I have seen enough hotels to last me a lifetime. In this case I rather stay in a rural casa, or small family run pension if the albergue option is not open for consideration

Regards

Neville

http://www.littlegreentracs.typepad.com/
http://www.verderamedia.com

 

[dougfitz]

I mostly stayed in albergues, but also stayed one night in a hostel, and two in hotels. While cost was a factor, it was my first Camino, and I really didn't have a strongly formed view on doing it any other way.

In the hostel I shared a room, and other than the bath had hot water that did not seem to run out, was not that much different to an albergue.

The first hotel was a real disappointment. I could hear people coming and going until the early hours of the morning, and eventually got less good sleep than if I had been in an albergue.

The second hotel was in Santiago, so I am not sure whether to count it at all, but it was excellent.

So my feeling is that if I did it again, I would be using albergues.

Regards,

 

[Olivares]

While many invoke spiritual reasons for staying in Albergues, I am willing to bet for many of those it is actually a more terrenal motivation; saving money :lol: . On my younger years I would had not hesitated to stay in Albergues. Today, it is a choice; it is either get a good night sleep or not finish The Camino. Simple as that. If God is not happy about this, I am sure He/She will let me know sooner rather than later...

 

[dutchpilgrim]

If God is not happy about this, I am sure He/She will let me know sooner rather than later...[/size][/color]

When God created man, She was only joking.

Back on topic:
Because it is part of the Camino. Because of the meeting with other pilgrims, the camaraderie, the sharing.
And every now and then a hotel for a good rest, some privacy, abundant towels.

Ultreya,
Carli Di Bortolo

 

[Nandy61]

I couldn't agree more with all of you! I can see each and everyone's preference as valid. Having only walked once (from StJPP) I can only add that I can't imagine not staying in the albergues. We had formed quite a tight little 7 person family by Pamplona. We ate together, drank together, slept together and we would all rise and walk together. I think we would've broken up if some of us had stayed elsewheres. But here's one item that has yet to be mentioned: staying in the albergues forced me to go to bed!! Being quite social, I am often tempted to stay out way past my bedtime. I always remarked about the pubs in Ireland "thank God they close at 11pm!" (their hours are a bit different now) Thank God the albergues close by 10:30pm (or thereabouts) How would I have roused myself to walk 28K each day if I stayed out until I decided to return?! As it was, there were times when we were knocking back our drinks, darting out the cafe/bar and racing to the albergue door in the dark. When we arrived in SDC however, we all splurged and stayed in Hospedaria San Martin Pinario. Boy did those sheets feel heavenly on my toes and feet as I slid into them!! (We also stayed out until after 2am!)

 

[grayland]

I am with JW on this one. When I am a pilgrim I don´t stay in albergues if I can help it. I´ve had enough of spiders and dust and slimy showers, and now that I am older I have enough money to pay for a reasonably priced room of my own. I can enjoy the company of my fellow pilgrims without sharing a room with them at night.

I think albergues are akin to homeless shelters. They were meant for people without an alternative, but they´ve evolved into something much different, if not always much nicer.

Excellent posts here.
I pretty much fall into the same category as Reb now. I do stay in albergues part of the time, but really do not feel that they are a necessary part of a "real" Camino. I do understand the financial attraction and know that it is a very necessary part of making a camino possible for many.

But...don't see the real connection to the "old" camino with straw bedding (changed once a year) on the floor. There are a few albergues that come close to the medieval one.. :shock:
I have no problem connecting with my fellow pilgrims either as Rebekah has pointed out.
I can understand all of the good reasons here for both positions. This is what makes each person's Camino a personal undertaking.

 

[peregrina2000]

Although I check into this forum on a daily basis, this was one post I hadn't clicked on, until I saw that some of my Camino favorites were posting. Since I am a spineless follower, only then did I decide to check it out. And I think this is a very interesting conundrum.

Remembering that each post on this topic should be prefaced with a "from where I sit" introduction, I have to say that Ias a 60+ years old peregrina, with a certain level of financial security, the doctrinal push of the albergues was something I was sensitive to 10 years ago, but I've gotten over. As a novice peregrina, I was highly sensitive to the condemnation and censure of others, and I always wanted to be accepted as a "real" peregrina, which meant sleeping in many places that were quite frankly unappealing, unsanitary, and maybe downright hazardous to my health. But as I've done this over and over again, I have become less sensitive to the opinions (and condemnation) of others, and I am now at the very happy place that I am quite comfortable with being a peregrina and sleeping wherever I want. I realize that others don't have the financial flexibility that I do, and I am very grateful that I am where I am, but for me, I think it's important not to begrudge or to criticize anyone for his/her accommodation choices.

I think the Camino would be a much happier place if we could throw aside our judgmental sides and just say, we are all peregrinos, we are all searching, and we will all do it in our own way. Buen camino, laurie

 

[johnnyman]

I stayed in a private room on my second night on the Camino, and shared private quarters several times after that with someone I befriended along the way. It was heavenly -- the peace and quiet, the privacy, the comfort. Many of the small-town, more isolated albergues I stayed in were fantastic and I'd stay there again. But the larger ones, in the bigger towns and especially the municipals at the end of the traditional stages, I would avoid those like the plague. Not a thing in the world wrong with grabbing a private room ...

 

[methodist.pilgrim.98]

Grayland said why do you stay in albergues? I took the you to be the important part of the sentence. We cannot answer for anyone else.

My reply was why I do so. When I have had money and when I have been short of the stuff, I have stayed in albergues because I want to live a more basic and simple lifestyle. I see it as part of MY spiritual journey.

While there is a long history of embracing poverty as a spiritual discipline, as far as I am concerned it does not imply that if you choose to live comfortably, you are not on a spiritual journey or are any less of a pilgrim.

Indeed, one can argue that if you can’t sleep, if you make yourself ill, then you are going to be so physically worn down that your spiritual journey will very quickly disintegrate.

I know the desert fathers believed that holiness can be achieved in such a state of weakness, but it may just be delusional. Furthermore, disintegration may lead to a vacuum and vacuums are spiritually dangerous as anything can wander in.

So, if anybody has thought that my reply implied that a better class of accommodation means you can’t achieve a spiritual journey, then I respectfully suggest that you have made a leap I was not implying. However, I would add that I am sorry if it has caused you irritation or offence.

On this forum we share how WE feel and it is not our place to say that someone else’s journey has to be the same as ours.

On one thing I would be cautious. While some may hide their financial embarrassment behind a spiritual reason, I do not believe we can say that is true of most. Over the years I have met pilgrims who want their lives to be simpler. That may not be achievable except for moments such as on the Camino.

If I am told that they long for simplicity, I can only take people’s statements at face value, because I have no way of knowing the true state of a person’s heart or soul. When people say to me this is where my spiritual life is at, I have to believe them. Occasionally I may think they are lying but it is wise to act as if they are not.

It is a good question. We have had honest replies which I appreciate. We are all different and that is the joy of both the Camino and this forum.

 

[grayland]

MP..
Thanks for the very thoughtful post. I went back and looked at all of the post and I see no indication that anyone took your earlier thoughts in any way but that which you intended..no worries :wink:

Each of us walk the Camino for our own reasons. As pointed out by many here, where we sleep has no bearing on the quality of the journey. It is refreshing that we all respect the others opinions and preferences.
As I posted before, I do stay in albergues...but only the smaller and less crowded ones. I do this as part of a temporary walking group or because it is highly recommended. Usually, I do not.

 

[mmonomm]

hi everyone,

why??

i have met one of my closest friends in an albergue!! we still keep in touch, and some weeks ago, on my third camino, i visited her. this relationship, even if we had walked together only 2 days to Santiago, means a lot to me. we keep in touch by emails... but i would not met her if i wouldn't slept in an albergue. her life experience has touched me. she is a gift for me.

...because i think speaking with other pilgrims gives you a larger perspective on why people do the same as you. even if they are coming from another continent, speaking another language, are older than you, in a very different situation... but everyone somehow is searching for something on the camino... which gives you the feeling of communion with them.

...because i really wanted to live a simple life... very small backpack with just 2 sets of clothes... and this simplicity i experienced in the albergues, while walking, helps me back at home, to have a simple and content life!!!! not always unhappy because of high expectations, but content of what i have.

...it's a cheaper way to walk the camino...

 

[sillydoll]

For those seeking alternative places to stay (to albergues) remember that a pension or hostal in an old building in the centre of town will have more atmosphere than a smart modern hotel in the new part of town and will generally cost less too.
When I walk the Camino again on my own, I will choose 7 or 8 traditional refuges to sleep in, a few private albergues, and spend the remaining nights in pensiones, hostales and casa rural homes. Pensiones and hostales in Spain are mainly run by families - some form part of their homes - and they seem to attract more pilgrims than hotels do.
Many private albergues now have private rooms as well as dorms so you can still interact with pilgrims without having to sleep on top of them!

 

[AJ]

I now realise that pilgrimage is a state of mind not a method of sleeping.

I stay in albergues for the company and because it makes the pilgrimage affordable. The notion that it is necessary to stay in albergues in order to have an authentic pilgrimage experience is in my view bollocks.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

"Bollocks" /ˈbɒləks/ is a word of Anglo-Saxon origin, meaning "testicles".

I have had morcilla on the Camino, but not bollocks.

 

[demcrookedvultures]

Snorers !!

Your most valuable friend on the Camino are your ear plugs !!!

 

[apilgrim]

Very nice responses here and it's great to see such a variety of opinions and ideas. I stay in albergues most nights. But, in my experience the Camino always provides. I had one rough day when I was not well but was still fully prepared to locate the albergue in Navarette where I was stopping, even though what I really wanted was privacy, a nice bed and a door that I could close. On the way to the albergue I noticed a sign for a B&B. I stepped into a beautiful home and was shown to a lovely room with a white bedspread and lace curtains. That room became my home for the night and I didn't mind spending the extra money. It's exactly what I needed. Next day, with a good night's sleep and quiet time alone, I was all geared up for a new adventure, a wonderful hike, and I was much more mentally prepared to share a room with 30+ people. The Camino provides.

 

[sillydoll]

When Prof Conrad Rudolph described the albergues as 'the soul of the Camino' I think he was referring to the traditional, donativo albergues run by the Spanish Federation and Confraternities.

The pilgrim refuges on the Caminos in Spain are definitely unique. Many private albergues now cater for all tastes and pockets by providing a few double, triple or quad rooms for just a few euro more than the dormitories.

When I walked from Paris to Spain there were less than a handful of dedicated pilgrim shelters on the Via Turonensis. In 2006 I didn't find much in the way of pilgrim hospitality on the Via Francigena where nearly all of our accommodation had to be in hotels or pensions.

 

[duncan pm]

I see seasonality here.
My first walks were in very early Spring. So few people about, we met ands to remet often.
In the summer it was just a tide of people, many wonderous.
We remet people from the second time on the third - it was like fireworks and rainbows!
It was the shared, the mutually experiences and the truth of it all.
The domestic experiences were oft grim. (I have O.C.D)
When I lived in Valladolid, Castilla, I cycled 2 weeks across the plains, meseta Tierra de Campos. Then the alburgues really informed me and changed my outlook. The Camino does its thing, its way, each time.
I don't know anything - it will only come from you, your experience, your way, your Camino.
Buen Camino.

 

[AJ]

In 2006 I didn't find much in the way of pilgrim hospitality on the Via Francigena where nearly all of our accommodation had to be in hotels or pensions.

There is plenty of pilgrim hospitality on the Via Francigena in Italy: I stayed in religious houses most of the time. There is even a list of them with phone numbers on the web. I was given a copy of this list in a tourist informtion office.

 

[LoriDee]

I want to thank you all for this wonderful topic. I have yet to walk my first Camino. I am a pilgrim in training, so to speak. One of the questions I have been pondering is private room or albergue. I know that for me, even in my own home, I have problems sleeping due to noise, so this has been a huge concern. I also know that for me, my journey is to be one of introspection, reflection, meditation, and all about self discovery. I am sure that I will meet and connect with other pilgrims along the way. How could you not with the hundreds of people walking the same path? But forming groups to hang with is not what I will be looking for, I can and do do that at home. I love what was posted before, "pilgrimage is a state of mind not a method of sleeping." I do know that having peace and quiet for meditation and writing in my journal as I begin and end my days will be important to me.

I believe there can be no wrong way to do a pilgrimage. It is personal. I am so looking forward to it.
Buen Camino,
LoriDee

 

[Nicprinsloo]

I prefer Albergues but do from time to time (once a week or when I feel the need) stay in a hotel. The Camino is not a vacation but a spiritual journey and very seldom, if ever, would a fellow peregrino take exception or 'intrude' your space if you don't want to allow it. The same applies to the forming of groups. One sometimes welcome some company, I had a wonderful experience while walking with someone for a couple of days and then split up, I mentioned some important date to her and on that day she miraculously 'appeared' in Triacastela to share that date with me.The following day we parted again. Do I have to say; we are still friends after many years although we live continents apart.

 

[Debinq]

Hola
Having braved my share of albergues in 06 on the C Aragones and last qtr of VdlP, I'd say on the whole a private hotel room (w amenities) is preferable, hands down! - For some p & q which allows blissful 'this and that -and the spiritual-other'. But if an albergue is empty (or next to empty, i.e. one or two fellow pilgrims only) they're part of the great new, soul-changing experience a camino is supposed to bring about. But all you need is one loud snorer...oh no, bye bye g n s!!

buen camino quand meme (and happy trails too)
Peter

 

[sillydoll]

AJ - I'm so pleased to hear that there is dedicated pilgrim accommodation on the VF now. Perhaps you can share your list by posting it here?

 

[AJ]

AJ - I'm so pleased to hear that there is dedicated pilgrim accommodation on the VF now. Perhaps you can share your list by posting it here?

The list is entitled Dormifrancigena B and is available from:

http://www.francigena-international.org/

It seems you have to order it from their shop. It was given to me in a tourist information office.

The Lightfoot guide also lists accommodation in religious houses. Some are free, some donativo and some charge. The quality varies enormously from a mattress on the floor to 5 star with meals.

 

[jl]

re the Via Francigena - there is also a comprehensive list on the the "Pilgrims to Rome" website for their members. It is updated as each member makes their pilgrimage and submits their experiences. Very helpful. Janet

 

[Larazet]

While many invoke spiritual reasons for staying in Albergues, I am willing to bet for many of those it is actually a more terrenal motivation; saving money :lol: . On my younger years I would had not hesitated to stay in Albergues. Today, it is a choice; it is either get a good night sleep or not finish The Camino. Simple as that. If God is not happy about this, I am sure He/She will let me know sooner rather than later...

Totally agree with your comments. Just worried that I may not find that hotel/hostal I need once I have walked past the albergue, passing those who have found a comfy, friendly resting place! :?

 

[fortview]

Before we started our camino, I had already decided that I would not stay in albergues ! No way , all those other bodies, bunk beds, snoring, not for me , thank you very much :roll:
Fast forward to Zubiri, no other accommodation, fiesta in Larrasona so it was all full up, = no choice. I tried throwing a major princessy hissy fit. It got me nowhere, except a severe talking to from my long suffering husband. So, scared to bits by the municipal albergue, we stayed in a private one. I lay awake all night , scared , and disbelieving that I was actually in a room full of other people. And I discovered that, no matter how little sleep I'd had, I could get up and walk.
And guess what ? I am a born again albergue convert
We NEEDED to stay in albergues, to have the support of our fellow pilgrims. For the wonderful friendships. For the most amazing experience of starting every day laughing, that sense of togetherness, that had I had my way would have been missed.
And on those occasions we stayed in a hostel, I so missed the snoring, snorting, sweaty mass of lovely pilgrims

 

[sillydoll]

After the relics of the apostle were 'lost' in 1589 - not to be rediscovered for nearly 300 years - the Camino itself was practically forgotten and became just a dim memory. Pilgrims who made the journey in the 17th - 19th centuries tell of sleeping in monasteries, taverns and inns or outdoors when these were not avilable. In 1867 - a Holy Year - only 44 pilgrims turned up for the celebration of the mass on 25th July.

For over 400 years the number of pilgrim 'albergues' dwindled to just a handful. The albergues - as we know them now - were an invention of the newly formed Spanish Federation who, at their first conference in Jaca in 1987, decided to motivate the different Regions to provide places for pilgrims to sleep.

There are only about 10 albergues that I would make a point of staying in on the Camino Frances, and a number of private albergues where I would book a room. For the rest of the time I'd be happy to stay in a Casa, a pension or hostal.

 

[fortview]

And each to his or her own..
I just wanted to reassure people who are about to undertake their first camino, and may be feeling as anxious as I was about staying in albergues .
I

 

[Olivares]

I cannot carry a loaded backpack due to a back injury. I did not deprived myself from walking the Camino because of that. THANK GOD for baggage transfer services. In return, I chose NOT to stayed in Albergues leaving that bed to somebody who carried their backpack. Also, I am fortunate that I can afford to pay a litle more for lodging, so I rested very happy at night knowing I was substaining the Camino local economy, not depriving somebody from a bed, and better prepared to be better company the next day.

The pilgrimage is not limited to where you laid out at night. I made friends with people who were staying at the Albergues, had dinner, and walked many miles together. To those who judge somebody else's pilgimage based on where they choose to spend the night I say.....BUEN CAMINO! ]

 

[Susannafromsweden]

This thread was fun to read.

Ok I stay in albergues because I want to save money and get some company. Small, clean albergues can be nice, and it can be fun sometimes to buy food and cook together.
But not always. I hate having to share the bathroom with other people. I hate having to get up so early every day. Some albergues I stayed in were awful, damp matresses etc. Once I had to sleep on a mattress which smelled urine. To be honest, I don't understand how it can be ok to run places like that, lots of people sleeping in the same room on damp mattresses, sometimes even with bedbugs. It can't be healthy. I wouldn't ask my cats sleep on a wet mattress. And they wouldn't accept such a bed, of course. :wink:

So I stay at a hotel perhaps every third night or something, so I can have a long bath and wash all my things. But I don't want to stay at a hotel every night, because its too expensive and gets too lonely.

 

[fraluchi]

There are only about 10 albergues that I would make a point of staying in on the Camino Frances, and a number of private albergues where I would book a room. For the rest of the time I'd be happy to stay in a Casa, a pension or hostal.

It just hit me, that on my travels along the Camino Francés since 2007, I have stayed in about 100 different albergues. They included "parroquiales", "comunales" and "privados". Stays at the parroquiales of Tosantos, Viana, Grañon and Burgos (Emmaus) were superb in comunity spirit. In Burgos, the efficient comunal albergue near the cathedral was an improvement as compared to the (now disappeared) Parral. Etc. One of the advantages in albergues is the possibility of washing one's clothes. Not always evident in hostals or hotels, except perhaps at greater cost and with patience. In albergues "privados" this facility exists most of the time (washer, dryer)
So one thing compensates with another, and the choice in not easy. Reading up.... :roll:

 

[sillydoll]

I've also probably stayed in over 100 albergues on my 6 walks to Santiago.
On the Camino Frances there are 10 645 beds spread over 242 albergues. Of those, the number of traditional, donativo albergues has dropped to just 20.
I prefer the small albergues and would make a point of staying in some of those rather than the big albergues.

 

[mspath]

During eight Camino Frances each lasting more than seven weeks i have spent roughly 400 nights on the route. At least 375 of these were stays in pilgrim albergues. Of course the conditions varied greatly. Some appeared over the years, others improved, others not and a few still remain perfect. However at each albergue I have always been glad to arrive and at most pleased to return . At the end of each walking day a simple shelter, a bunk (preferably a bottom level ), a working toilet, hot shower and heat in cold weather are all that is truly needed. A gracious welcoming hospitalero and the possibility of good companionship with fellow pilgrims are, of course, desirable, but not vital necessities.

For me the camino is a journey of rediscovery both physical and philosophical. The simplicity of albergue life is a prime ingredient.

Margaret Meredith

 

[nreyn12]

There are only about 10 albergues that I would make a point of staying in on the Camino Frances, and a number of private albergues where I would book a room. For the rest of the time I'd be happy to stay in a Casa, a pension or hostal.

Silvia, would you be willing to share your list of 10 albergues?

So much has changed with what's on offer in albergues, even just since this original post was put up.

This listing of albergues by the Spanish supermarket chain, Eroski, shows close to 300 albergues from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Santaigo: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergues/#camino-frances. According to this list, roughly half of these albergues can be booked in advance, and many now have 'private' rooms with two to four beds that can be booked by couples and small groups.

I think it all comes down to what kind of experience you are after. I really enjoy staying at the albergues that provide a shared meal and/or are hosted by former pilgrims.

The best nights on the Camino have always been those shared with my Camino friends, and then it doesn't really matter where we are.

 

[sillydoll]

These are my top ten albergues. Not for being up-market, smart, fancy or having great ablutions - but for atmosphere, welcome, camaraderie and memories!

1) Esprit du Chemin – St Jean Pied de Port – wonderful start with caring owners, communal meals and blessing. Book this one ahead: http://www.espritduchemin.org
2) Eunate – meal by candlelight – walk around the church in the moonlight, special blessing after dinner (Check opening times – sometimes is closed if there is no hospitalero)
3) Granon – sleep on mattresses in the bell tower of a church – sing for your supper – pilgrim blessing (Open all year)
4) Tosantos – sleep on mattresses - pilgrim blessing in the attic chapel – pray for pilgrims who have left a prayer request (not sure of opening times)
5) Arroyo San Bol - 1000yr old medicinal spring at the back, fantastic communal dinner. (Open April – mid October)
6) Convento San Anton – magical, basic albergue in the ruins of the San Anton convent (Open to end of September)
7) Hospital San Nicolas - sleep in the loft of a restored church – communal meal cooked by Italian hospitaleros, pilgrim blessing includes washing of pilgrims feet (late June to mid-September)
8) Bercianos – ancient straw and mud house, watch the sunset before being allowed to have a communal dinner
9) Villafranca del Bierzo - Ave Fenix run by the Jato family for almost 30 years – Jesus Jato is a healer. (Open all year) Can book ahead.
10) Ruitelin – Gregorian chants, Shiatsu massage, healing

And one that I have stayed in 3 times but is nor everyone's cup of tea:

*Manjarin – Atmospheric albergue run by Tomas the Templar - basic, no running water, electricity or toilet. Sleep in a stone barn on mattresses – stay for the Templario blessing and ceremony at 11am. (Open all year)

I have only listed my favourites on the Camino Frances - others may have their favourites which I haven't stayed in.

PS: I can't edit out that 'smiley' that somehow attached itself to Bercianos!

 

[nreyn12]

Thanks, Silvia! Great list. I admit I have never slept on mattresses on the floor on any of my Camino walks. Is there a particular allure to this, or is it just the overall experience that came with those albergues?

2) Eunate – meal by candlelight – walk around the church in the moonlight, special blessing after dinner (Check opening times – sometimes is closed if there is no hospitalero)

There's been some discussion lately that the Eunate albergue is - sadly - completely closed now. The church is still worth a visit, even if the albergue isn't open.

PS: I can't edit out that 'smiley' that somehow attached itself to Bercianos!

That's okay - Bercianos deserves the smiley!

 

[Aldy]

During my first Camino, I stayed mostly in albergues with the exception of a few nights in casa rural and small hotels. I loved the camaraderie of other pilgrims, and especially enjoyed the communal dinners.

I have to admit that there were a few nights where I truly didn't like the setup - due to the proximity of beds, - I don't like the idea of waking up face to face with a perfect stranger. This happened both in the larger albergue in Leon and O'Cebreiro. This said, I didn't mind sleeping on a mattress in Hospital San Nicolas - the restored church. This by far is one of my favorite albergues where we enjoyed a beautiful meal by candlelight, then feel asleep as the candles burned out one by one.

This time around I will likely stay mostly at casas rurales, a limited number of albergues and some low budget hotels when a tub will be needed (knee challenges).
The experience will be different than the first time, but then again, it will still be spiritual, amazing and fulfilling!

Everyone makes their Camino THEIRS - - and whatever it takes for you to have a good experience is whatever it takes! There is no wrong or right way to do the Camino - with the exception of doing it with an open heart, respect for others and a smile!
Buen Camino!

 

[TrishAlexSage]

We will stay in albergues because there is no way I could afford this trip otherwise! I'm paying for myself and two kids, and I'm a single mom.

 

[JansCamino]

I plan to stay at whatever accommodation St. James lays at my feet when I cannot walk another step, and I plan to give thanks for it.