- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2021
It has been a few weeks since I returned from my winter Camino and I have really been trying to wrap my head around the experience. I still don’t completely know how I feel about my 3rd Camino, it was without a doubt a mixed bag.
Due to a knee injury(torn meniscus) that I suffered early on descending into Zubiri that just got worse and worse, I had to cut my walk short in Astorga. Bummer… On the brighter side, I was able to fly back to the US from Madrid just a week before the border shutdowns and things got really complicated so at least that worked out.
My Camino started just after first of the year. While I was prepared for a lot of the Camino to be closed for the winter season, I was not fully conscious of just how hard things would be for me.
Lodging wasn’t that big a deal, I had budgeted for a lot of private rooms along the way mainly due to laziness and the ease of pre booking a day or two ahead with my phone. 90% of the places I stayed were amazing and they really seemed to appreciate the winter hikers. The others seemed to be annoyed I was there at all. Kinda odd but whatever.
Food was a real challenge. I have extremely fond memories of prior Camino meals and coffee stops that were amazing. Unfortunately, 95% of these were closed for the season. While I knew many would I was not prepared for the emotional impact of having to walk by so many places that mean a lot to me. Found a lot of new treasures, but it was hard going. Many nights I ended up eating food from the store instead of eating out due to lack of open places. Saved a lot of money that way but it got kinda lonely.
The other pilgrims I met were usually 1 of 2 distinct groups: Korean students and Europeans on their 4th or 5th Camino. Very few first timers not of Korean origin. I had some great times with them all, but the isolation was, at times, a real difference from past Caminos. There were at least 4 days I saw no other pilgrims and most nights I was the only pilgrim in an entire albergue or hostel. Spooky quiet at times!
The weather was a mixed bag. Some rain, some snow, lots of sun and tons of fog. Not very different from my spring Camino in 2018. I wildly overpacked winter gear, I only used my puffer coat once at night. Other than that the rest(extra gloves, gaiter, merino underlayers, etc) were dead weight. I really enjoyed the snow covered vineyards and hillsides while walking. Saw some tings that just took my breath away. Glad I got to see them!
The biggest issue I ran into was the dark. Odd but there ya go. I am used to spending a nice evening out on a terrace having dinner and drinks with fellow pilgrims to unwind after a long day walking. When the sun was going down so early, I ended up spending some time in a bar if it was open but mostly I was going to be out of boredom by 7pm. Not quite the fun of the Camino I enjoyed in pas times.
All in all, I am glad I went in winter this time. It was rough physically and mentally, more mentally to my chagrin. I don’t think I will try another winter trek, but would encourage all to give it a try!
Due to a knee injury(torn meniscus) that I suffered early on descending into Zubiri that just got worse and worse, I had to cut my walk short in Astorga. Bummer… On the brighter side, I was able to fly back to the US from Madrid just a week before the border shutdowns and things got really complicated so at least that worked out.
My Camino started just after first of the year. While I was prepared for a lot of the Camino to be closed for the winter season, I was not fully conscious of just how hard things would be for me.
Lodging wasn’t that big a deal, I had budgeted for a lot of private rooms along the way mainly due to laziness and the ease of pre booking a day or two ahead with my phone. 90% of the places I stayed were amazing and they really seemed to appreciate the winter hikers. The others seemed to be annoyed I was there at all. Kinda odd but whatever.
Food was a real challenge. I have extremely fond memories of prior Camino meals and coffee stops that were amazing. Unfortunately, 95% of these were closed for the season. While I knew many would I was not prepared for the emotional impact of having to walk by so many places that mean a lot to me. Found a lot of new treasures, but it was hard going. Many nights I ended up eating food from the store instead of eating out due to lack of open places. Saved a lot of money that way but it got kinda lonely.
The other pilgrims I met were usually 1 of 2 distinct groups: Korean students and Europeans on their 4th or 5th Camino. Very few first timers not of Korean origin. I had some great times with them all, but the isolation was, at times, a real difference from past Caminos. There were at least 4 days I saw no other pilgrims and most nights I was the only pilgrim in an entire albergue or hostel. Spooky quiet at times!
The weather was a mixed bag. Some rain, some snow, lots of sun and tons of fog. Not very different from my spring Camino in 2018. I wildly overpacked winter gear, I only used my puffer coat once at night. Other than that the rest(extra gloves, gaiter, merino underlayers, etc) were dead weight. I really enjoyed the snow covered vineyards and hillsides while walking. Saw some tings that just took my breath away. Glad I got to see them!
The biggest issue I ran into was the dark. Odd but there ya go. I am used to spending a nice evening out on a terrace having dinner and drinks with fellow pilgrims to unwind after a long day walking. When the sun was going down so early, I ended up spending some time in a bar if it was open but mostly I was going to be out of boredom by 7pm. Not quite the fun of the Camino I enjoyed in pas times.
All in all, I am glad I went in winter this time. It was rough physically and mentally, more mentally to my chagrin. I don’t think I will try another winter trek, but would encourage all to give it a try!