Winter camino

[auverso]

Hi. I'll be starting a second Camino early November from Pamplona to Santiago. I've plenty of time, so plan to walk for about ten weeks to further take in some of the sights I walked through the first time in the very busy summer of 2010... especially the last 200km. I've read much of the very helpful advice on winter walking and welcome any more . And, I'll try to make a point of adding hints once I've experienced a winter trek. Christmas and New Years will be solitary his year, but hopefully not too much. Here's hoping to see some of you on the way!

 

[MendiWalker]

Buen Camino!

 

[auverso]

Merci!

 

[KinkyOne]

@auverso

Those info would be very appreciated, especially on accomodation. In another thread about CF albergues opened during winter-time I posted list of them but the list was mad purely on info gathered on some websites. There is a possibility that I'll have enough money (and time) at about Feb-Apr and was thinking of winter CF because I've already walked it in spring and want to leave other caminos for "nicer" weather (if there is such ).

Keep us posted. And Ultreia!

 

[caminoforme86]

Hi!
I am starting on the 30th of October

Maybe see you on the road!

 

[suekenney]

I walked in November/December 2001 and experienced snow, rain, hail, sun, wind, fog, clouds...every possible weather condition. I loved it all. At that time a lot of the albergues were closed in the winter so it meant that at times I had to walk over 40kms in a day. I never knew what was in store and therefore I had to adapt to what presented itself and let go of planning everything. Layer your clothing. Merino wool is the best product on the market. My leather boots got so wet I had to change into my track shoes going over the Pyrenees. Stay dry. Buen Camino! Looking forward to reading about your journey.

 

[caminoforme86]

Leaving on Sunday for Paris!!!

Got a couple of hill walks in last couple days, carrying a 11kg pack, way over how much mine will come to. I am hoping it won't be heavier than 8kg.

Struggling a bit on the downhill and the knee I had an operation on is giving me a bit of trouble today. Gonna take it easy now till Sunday. Still a few things to get.

Booked my flight back for the 10th dec, starting walking on the 30th so I think I have given myself a good 5 weeks to walk it.

Anyone else leaving soon?

 

[ivar]

Buen Camino!

 

[hampshire!tim]

Hi.
I'm planning to start from SJPP on 3rd or 4th Nov
My first camino and looking forward with excitement, trepidation and humility.
If I don't see you on the way, buen camino !

Tim

 

[MendiWalker]

Hi Hampshire!tm

Buen Camino!

 

[auverso]

Hi Tim

I look forward to the possibility of crossing paths.
Cheers,

John

 

[hampshire!tim]

Thank you mendiwalker and auverso

Ticket now booked from London St Pancras on Eurostar to Paris, and then TGV from Paris to Biarritz.

Feeling a little guilty as I heard someone from Hampshire walked from Winchester to Santiago - that sure is a journey.

The Camino Frances will be more than enough for me on my first outing.

So excited, and simultaneously sad to be leaving my dog behind. Would love to bring him, but it would likely be too much for him.

As I reduce my rucksack contents, I feel I am already learning lessons.

D minus 7 : can't wait to get started.

 

[MendiWalker]

I have recently read here on the forum that there is a peregrine walking from Russia. But everybody is different and does´t have the time nor physical condition to do so.
Remember YOUR Camino starts on YOUR doorstep. How you get to Santiago is all up to you. Enjoy every minute of it. All the pains and joys. Have a great time.

Buen Camino!

 

[hampshire!tim]

Thank you Mendiwalker, I appreciate the voice of experience

 

[Sibillini]

"Ticket now booked from London St Pancras on Eurostar to Paris, and then TGV from Paris to Biarritz".

Hi Tim

Re Eurostar, for some reason unknown to normal life forms, Eurostar think they are an airline and not a railway company. As a consequence they consider walking poles as "hold" baggage and they have to travel with the guard at not inconsiderable cost. I am planning to walk in February and was also planning to take the train both ways, unfortunately I am now thinking of flying due to a protracted conversation with Eurostars "Customer Service".

So if you have poles, good luck with your persuasion techniques at St Pancras.

Charlie

 

[hampshire!tim]

Thank you for the warning Sibillini
Yes I have poles! and I thought trains would not have a problem, one of the reasons to travel that way.
I shall have to consider a disguise ! ;-)
Or pay the fine !

 

[redyns50]

Hey! Glad to see there are a few other pilgrims here heading out soon (Hi John, Tim and Caminoforme86) I'm getting to Paris Nov. 1, so starting the Camino Frances from SJPP shortly after that. Stayed up all night thinking and planning for the trip - looking forward to it
-Dan

 

[hampshire!tim]

Hey Dan
Happy safe travels to SJPP and buen camino from there
See you around

Tim

 

[JabbaPapa]

The only thing I know about this is to either avoid O Cebreiro entirely, by taking the Camino de Invierno variant from Ponferrada, or otherwise to use the tarmac route up that mountain (and probably much of the way down as well).

Oh, and staying at the "templar" refugio before the Cruz de Ferro will probably be a "must" ; everyone who has walked the Camino in winter seems to say as much.

Buen Camino !!!

 

[auverso]

Thanks, JabbaPapa

Once I'm at O Cebreiro I'll see how I'm faring and decide to climb or divert. When I was there, in the summer of 2010, I was met by a very good Scottish poet and his 20 year old single malt, so have very favourable memories with a hope for more. I passed the Templar Refugio in the daytime, so didn't stay the night. I hope to this time, however.
I leave next week ( from Marrakech, where I'm visiting now), and can barely contain my excitement!
Here's trusting some of us meet on the trails.

John

 

[auverso]

Oops..... Spell check and I made O Cebreiro into improper Irish.

 

[santiago_67]

I just returned. I went prepared for cold weather in Galicia, but walked most days in a t-shirt and shorts. But don't forget the poncho - heavy rain and wind as I climbed to O'Cebreiro and really heavy rain as I got closer to Santiago. Buen Camino!

 

[hampshire!tim]

Shortly arriving in Biarritz and staying in Bayonne tonight (Saturday 02Nov).
Train to SJPP tomorrow.
Excited and nervous.
Did I forget anything?
Will I be strong enough?
Will Route Napoleon be open and am I brave enough ? ;-)

Amuses me that all the advice is "ease into it" but one of the hardest and yet most attractive sections is on first day.

Maybe I'll understand in 48 hours !

As for rain etc, hopefully well prepared with excellent set of Rohan waterproofs. I originally planned to use a poncho. It seems simpler. But trying one led me to conclude ponchos to be a total "faff". Again, maybe I'll see it differently in a few weeks.

El Camino, please be patient with me.
I am just a sinner trying to do my best.

 

[hampshire!tim]

Klutz ! Moi that is
I didn't check that the TGV actually goes to Bayonne BEFORE Biarritz
So I could jump off, cross to the platform and take train to SJPP almost immediately - 40 min wait.
Enough time to say hello to other pilgrims
I'm guessing about 10 on the train now

So due to total stupidity and rushing I have succeeded in saving one whole day, one hostel/hotel cost and dinner.

Let's hope fortune continues to smile

 

[karenfromcali]

El Camino, please be patient with me.
I am just a sinner trying to do my best.[/quote]

Love your quote Tim. Hope you have a wonderful time along The Way and that it is all you hope it to be.
Buen Camino

 

[santiago_67]

Shortly arriving in Biarritz and staying in Bayonne tonight (Saturday 02Nov).
Train to SJPP tomorrow.
Excited and nervous.
Did I forget anything?
Will I be strong enough?
Will Route Napoleon be open and am I brave enough ? ;-)

Amuses me that all the advice is "ease into it" but one of the hardest and yet most attractive sections is on first day.

Maybe I'll understand in 48 hours !

As for rain etc, hopefully well prepared with excellent set of Rohan waterproofs. I originally planned to use a poncho. It seems simpler. But trying one led me to conclude ponchos to be a total "faff". Again, maybe I'll see it differently in a few weeks.

El Camino, please be patient with me.
I am just a sinner trying to do my best.

You may want to rethink the poncho thing. I thought that I was prepared for the rain with my great LLBean rain jacket and a rain cover for my backpack. I was doing some last minute shopping at a discount store before I left on the Camino and saw this Coleman Poncho (folded up it was the size of a man's wallet) for 72 cents so I bought it on a whim. Once on the Camino I started off using my rain jacket, but found that it made me sweat and the rain was going down between the rain jacket and my backpack. Yep, the 72 cent poncho worked best of all - covering me and my backpack and allowing air to enter and keep me comfortable.

 

[auverso]

Any recommendations, other than Decathalon, for where to buy winter water- proofs in Pamplona?

 

[hampshire!tim]

Well here I am at Roncevaux monastery on night 2. TWO?? What happened to the bonus day I found ?

Well I've followed the advice on the forum. So I didn't push myself, not a race etc

Being brutally honest, it was tough. I'm diabetic with some blood pressure and other issues, and I think I had a couple of hypos - not sure why, I rationalise that extra sudden exercise affected blood sugar. Remedied with chocolate and lots of pauses. So I was slow. Local French couple advised me to make detour as I would be walking down other side through woods at night. Stay on tarmac.

But before I could, the sun had already gone and then a storm came in. Just 500km from col de lepoeder. It seemed bad. So I decided to use the shelter at Izandorre. No facilities of course but very welcome protection from wind and rain (apart from leaking window and door). Scary night, had to layer up fully and use foil emergency blanket. Ran out of water. Tree came down near shelter. So unexpected night stay on the mountain. I don't really recommend it ;-)

Storm blew non-stop from 8pm through to 11am, when the wind reduced. Rain continued but I was ok with that.

When I got to the downhill stretch through the woods, I was glad I had holed up. At night even with head-light it would have been tough.

Relaxed and dry I'm looking forward to tomorrow, although with some trepidation on hypos, and cramps. But it has to easier than first stage ..... Doesn't it ? ;-)

 

[LTfit]

What a story hampshire!tim!
Glad that you were tucked away and safe from the storm in the shelter. Lucky that you had that emergency blanket with you. I hope/trust that you have a phone with you in case you get into trouble and need help in the future.

That steep downhill threw the woods is tough on anyone especially after the 20 km climb.

Maybe a lesson for those that are slow to stay over in Orisson rather than risking getting caught on the mountain in the dark.

Take care and rest up. Tomorrow will be easier. And drink lots tonight (water I mean).

 

[Cynthia1978]

Hi, I did the Camino in January, and I only planned it for 6 days. I did the Traditional Camino. It is very cold, however once you start walking you will sweat alot, but you cant take anything off cause you will get sick. If you stop for a drink or lunch outside (cause you will hardly find anything open) don't stop for more than 20 minutes cause its cold. The toughest thing is that it rains alot, and that it snows and the light hours are less. So my advice is walk with rain, you have no choice but be prepared for the rain. About the snow: if it snows, avoid the trail, you will have to stick to the road as its safest. You can get lost cause the snow covers the yellow arrows (it happened to me I got lost and did 8km extra in one day). Also the snow, when it freezes its super dangerous, especially coming down from the mountains. So if it snows stick to the road.
Then wake up early try to use all the hours you have. Avoid night time, go with time, and talk to locals to try to find out which albergues are opened. I had the little map they give you in the tourism office before you go, but still, in winter albergues owners decide to open or close whenever they want, so you might plan to sleep at an albergue, arrive just before sunset, then you need to walk another 10-20 km cause its close. Locals know which ones are open. Don't start walking to the next albergue until you are sure its open.
Anyway... I am not sure if you started walking already.... if you did, Buen Camino!
If anyone is interested in reading my Camino in Winter here you can have a look, I wrote a post in my blog about it http://icveritas.com/buen-camino-peregrino/
Cheers!

 

[auverso]

Hi Cynthia,

You've written a well informed and entertaining blog.
I begin my second Camino Frances ( plus a bit extra) next week, and will make great use of your winter advice.
Thank you!
I stayed for two years in Buenos Aires a couple of years ago, and adore that part of your country.

Cheers,

John

 

[JabbaPapa]

Well here I am at Roncevaux monastery on night 2. TWO?? What happened to the bonus day I found ?

Well I've followed the advice on the forum. So I didn't push myself, not a race etc

Being brutally honest, it was tough. I'm diabetic with some blood pressure and other issues, and I think I had a couple of hypos - not sure why, I rationalise that extra sudden exercise affected blood sugar. Remedied with chocolate and lots of pauses. So I was slow. Local French couple advised me to make detour as I would be walking down other side through woods at night. Stay on tarmac.

But before I could, the sun had already gone and then a storm came in. Just 500km from col de lepoeder. It seemed bad. So I decided to use the shelter at Izandorre. No facilities of course but very welcome protection from wind and rain (apart from leaking window and door). Scary night, had to layer up fully and use foil emergency blanket. Ran out of water. Tree came down near shelter. So unexpected night stay on the mountain. I don't really recommend it ;-)

Storm blew non-stop from 8pm through to 11am, when the wind reduced. Rain continued but I was ok with that.

When I got to the downhill stretch through the woods, I was glad I had holed up. At night even with head-light it would have been tough.

Relaxed and dry I'm looking forward to tomorrow, although with some trepidation on hypos, and cramps. But it has to easier than first stage ..... Doesn't it ? ;-)

That's how to become a "true pilgrim"™ on Day One !!!

Well handled, mate, and great story.

 

[KinkyOne]

Any recommendations, other than Decathalon, for where to buy winter water- proofs in Pamplona?

Hi!

Try this shop which is located on the same street as Jesus y Maria Albergue:
http://www.caminoteca.com/

Ultreia!

 

[karenfromcali]

Well here I am at Roncevaux monastery on night 2. TWO?? What happened to the bonus day I found ?

Well I've followed the advice on the forum. So I didn't push myself, not a race etc

Being brutally honest, it was tough. I'm diabetic with some blood pressure and other issues, and I think I had a couple of hypos - not sure why, I rationalise that extra sudden exercise affected blood sugar. Remedied with chocolate and lots of pauses. So I was slow. Local French couple advised me to make detour as I would be walking down other side through woods at night. Stay on tarmac.

But before I could, the sun had already gone and then a storm came in. Just 500km from col de lepoeder. It seemed bad. So I decided to use the shelter at Izandorre. No facilities of course but very welcome protection from wind and rain (apart from leaking window and door). Scary night, had to layer up fully and use foil emergency blanket. Ran out of water. Tree came down near shelter. So unexpected night stay on the mountain. I don't really recommend it ;-)

Storm blew non-stop from 8pm through to 11am, when the wind reduced. Rain continued but I was ok with that.

When I got to the downhill stretch through the woods, I was glad I had holed up. At night even with head-light it would have been tough.

Relaxed and dry I'm looking forward to tomorrow, although with some trepidation on hypos, and cramps. But it has to easier than first stage ..... Doesn't it ? ;-)

Wow Tim! Talk about baptism by fire!...Or rain and wind in this case!!! Glad to hear you are doing ok and you made it through

 

[piogaw]

Any recommendations, other than Decathalon, for where to buy winter water- proofs in Pamplona?

Just walk into any bazar chino and you will find several types of poncho- very lightweight, lightweight and thicker weights. Also you can find cheap raincoat (polyester type). You will find many bazar chino in a big city like pamplona. They cost very little.

Good luck on your camino.