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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

wonderful meals along the Camino Frances

jstorybook

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
October-November 2013
I will be leaving in a few weeks for St. Jean to begin my Camino--I would like to ask those Pilgrims who have already walked the Camino about wonderful meals that they have had on the way and recommendations for places not to miss. Thanks!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Jim,

For me communal meals at the albergue in Eunate which is now unfortunately closed and at the Granon municipal albergue, within the belfry of the church of San Juan Bautista, have always been memorable feasts. Authenticity, honesty and true caritas made them very special.... For other comments regarding food on the Camino see these earlier Forum threads. >> http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...ood-menu-del-dia-on-the-camino-frances.18531/ and >> http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/forums/food-on-the-camino-de-santiago.85/

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith
 
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Community dinners at
Albergue Hogar Monjardín in Villamayor de Monjardín,
Albergue Libéranos Dómine in Rabé de las Calzados,
Albergue Villares in Villages de Órbigo,
Albergue Casa Banderas in Vilachá

The last 2 have really nice breakfasts to offer as well. Number 2 had breakfast as well.

I think the price was € 8-10 for the dinner in all above.

Buen Camino
 
Mashed potatoes, fried liver slices layered with bacon strips, topped with a large piece of roasted black pudding.
I found heaven in Burgos.
 
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http://www.elpajardeages.es/ElAlbergue.htm
The Hospitaleros wife and daughter made arroz Castellano for the six of us, I had 3 helpings and we still didn't eat half of it.
I knew it was made with love when his daughter who was helping her mom came into the dining room and asked how dinner was.
 

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The best octopus in the world is at the Pulperia in Cacabelos, just west of Ponferada. I think there may be two Pulperias in town but the good one has a nice metal octopus sign and a good hotel right across the street.
 
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I honestly had no wonderful meals along the camino in the culinary sense. Wonderfull meals due to the company or due to me being famished yes but mostly the food along the Camino is mediocre or downright sad.

But then again I ate in the usual places, pilgrim menu, bars cafes, I am sure having gone to a proper place for at proper dinner I could have gotten lucky. Mind you most places won't have that option...
 
Unfortunately the number of forgettable menu peregrino meals I had vastly outnumbered the really good ones. But the best one I had was at the private albergue in Boadilla del Camino. It began with the best red bean soup I've ever eaten, followed by a beautifully seasoned roast chicken (with salad). And we're not talking s couple chicken pieces, but what seemed like half a bird! The dessert was a lovely homemade flan.

At a great pension hotel in Sarria, I had a fantastic Galician beef stew and a bottomless bowl of really good, rich, hearty soup.

Frankly I found many of the menu peregrino meals a ripoff, especially when they charge €12, serve cold French fries and stale bread with your skimpy main, and have the nerve to give you a Nestle ice cream cone and call it dessert.

Best pintxos/tapas: Pamplona.

Best paella: Antonio de Padua albergue, Villar de Mazarife.

Best tortilla: it was stacked about 6 inches high, was filled with fresh, organic veggies and was topped with warm salsa and sour cream. So much better than the pedestrian varietals had at most bars in the morning along the Camino. I think it was in Murias de Rechivaldo, just outside of Astorga.

Don't get me started on the issue of wine.
 
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Unfortunately the number of forgettable menu peregrino meals I had vastly outnumbered the really good ones. But the best one I had was at the private albergue in Boadilla del Camino. It began with the best red bean soup I've ever eaten, followed by a beautifully seasoned roast chicken (with salad). And we're not talking s couple chicken pieces, but what seemed like half a bird! The dessert was a lovely homemade flan.

At a great pension hotel in Sarria, I had a fantastic Galician beef stew and a bottomless bowl of really good, rich, hearty soup.



Best pintxos/tapas: Pamplona.


Don't get me started on the issue of wine.
I am near Serria, what is the name of thr pension hotel with the fantastic Galician beef stew?
 
I posted this comment before on another thread about memorable meals. In 2012 I had an absolutely fantastic meal at a restaurant in Cacabelos at Moncloa de San Lazro, they prepared lamb for me on a wood fired grille with a tasty potato gratin and served toast with 3 colors of local pepper jellies as a starter. It was the very best of Bercian cuisine with a great local Bierzo wine list to boot. It's not exactly the DIY meal with your fellow pilgrims and certainly more expensive but well worth it.
 
Mustbjones,

Sorry, I can't recall pension name in Sarria where I had the beef stew, but it is a local specialty so you'd likely find a version of it if you looked around. Most menu del dia and menu peregrino are listed outside restaurants, so maybe keep an eye out for it.

The pension where I had mine was a small family operation. Mama and grandpa were doing all the kitchen prep, must have been one of those family recipes.
 
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Some of the most memorable meals I have ever had have been in Northern Spain in general and on the Camino in particular. However, almost none of them have been the typical Pilgrim's Meal. There are many options..... go to local shops and ask "what cheese is local and good?" Order off the menu instead of the typical Pilgrims Meal. Take a few (hundred) steps off the path and look for a restaurant filled with local people. Research specialties of each area; I did a post highlighting some of these here: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/good-restaurants.5733/#post-102864.

I had a great 7-course meal in Leon for 38 Euros. Amazing octopus in Galicia. Stunning milk-fed lamb in Burgos. Wonderful farmstead cheese in La Rioja. A farm-fresh meal in which almost everything was grown by the family at a Casa Rural. Amazing Pimientos de Padrón in Galicia. Pinxos (tapas) in Pamplona and Logroño were to die for (see http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/best-tapa-in-spain.6603/). The area near San Sabastian (on the Camino del Norte) has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other are in world. Good food is available everywhere in Spain.

One thing to remember.... In the U.S., we spend the lowest percentage of our income of any country in the world. We have cheap food (and policies), rather than good food. The typical Pilgrim's meal is filling and a decent value, but not the best of Spain. If you want good food, you have to pay for it. This is something that it seems many Peregrinos are unwilling to do.
 
Some of the most memorable meals I have ever had have been in Northern Spain in general and on the Camino in particular. However, almost none of them have been the typical Pilgrim's Meal. There are many options..... go to local shops and ask "what cheese is local and good?" Order off the menu instead of the typical Pilgrims Meal. Take a few (hundred) steps off the path and look for a restaurant filled with local people. Research specialties of each area; I did a post highlighting some of these here: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/good-restaurants.5733/#post-102864.

I had a great 7-course meal in Leon for 38 Euros. Amazing octopus in Galicia. Stunning milk-fed lamb in Burgos. Wonderful farmstead cheese in La Rioja. A farm-fresh meal in which almost everything was grown by the family at a Casa Rural. Amazing Pimientos de Padrón in Galicia. Pinxos (tapas) in Pamplona and Logroño were to die for (see http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/best-tapa-in-spain.6603/). The area near San Sabastian (on the Camino del Norte) has more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other are in world. Good food is available everywhere in Spain.

One thing to remember.... In the U.S., we spend the lowest percentage of our income of any country in the world. We have cheap food (and policies), rather than good food. The typical Pilgrim's meal is filling and a decent value, but not the best of Spain. If you want good food, you have to pay for it. This is something that it seems many Peregrinos are unwilling to do.


Well said, super post. Especially the part about searching out the restaurants filled with local people. It still amazes me to see tourists (in whatever country) walking into empty restaurants on the main strip, when a short recce of the area would undoubtedly throw up the real gems. No more so than the treat of a hotel/pension bed every week, pilgrims would do well to budget for one really good non- menu del dia/peregrino every so often.
 
To DesertRain, you mean to tell me there are no Mickey D's or KFC's on the Camino to feast on the cheapest of the cheap value meal du jour. God forbid any red blooded American would ever venture into this sort of wilderness:eek::rolleyes:o_O!
So thank God for the heavenly, healthy and hormone free food we eat in France and Spain. I've never been healthier except when I take my obligatory trips to the US for the holidays.
 
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The best meal we had (so far) was at Deportivo in Navarette, cooked by an Italian chef who was known to one of our group. An absolute masterpiece.


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Never EVER go through Navarette without stopping here for the pilgrim menu!
 
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The Alburgue in Fonfria has a community meal that included a local soup, then a braised meat meal which was awesome, and a homemade dessert which also hit the apt. Their wine was a typical low budget but ok red.. ImageUploadedByCamino de Santiago Forum1379670333.390310.jpg I was craving veggies and they delivered!!!
 
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I was craving veggies and they delivered!!!

Last time I was craving veggies, was in Los Arcos and ordered the mixed vegetables. For some reason I had envisioned something similar to a Japanese stir fry with crispy snow peas. I got peas alright, only peas, in fact an entire bowl of just peas which I think had been quickly emptied out of the can into the microwave. The French pilgrims who sat down next to us shortly after we're equally unimpressed after ordering the same thing.
 
It is not a meal, but I stopped at a bar in Foncebadon that had the best croissants that I have ever had in my life. They were so soft and fluffy! I can't remember the name of it, but it was on the right hand side as you walk, and I was drawn to it because they had Beethoven's 9th symphony playing.
 
It is not a meal, but I stopped at a bar in Foncebadon that had the best croissants that I have ever had in my life. They were so soft and fluffy! I can't remember the name of it, but it was on the right hand side as you walk, and I was drawn to it because they had Beethoven's 9th symphony playing.

I'm almost sure that's La Taberna de Gaia. Lovely place and reportedly very good (not expensive) food.
 

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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I still miss the lentil soups flavoured with chorizo - head and shoulders above any other starter in the three 'course' menu peregrino! If you go for that or the ensalada mista, and then your choice your protein in the main course, you'll get lots of good walking food at a very reasonable price. I kinda agree that some of the meals were a bit sad, but the company usually more than makes up for it, and if not, there's always the normal menu or the menu da dia. Anything with tomatoes was nice, because the toms were great! I think I walked for two weeks fantasising about grilled chicken, and lo and behold - in the square in Astorga I finally got one ... that was goood. Also in Cacabelos I had a three course meal in a sort of caverny restaurant halfway to the albergue and it was really good - the soup, the fish, the cakes, absolutely memorable. I am now officially taking notes for my next Camino, which will be even better food wise!
 
If you want a really good menu del dia in Pamplona, go to the Cafe Iruna in Plaza de Castillo. Three courses, choice of 4 or 5 different dishes per course and a bottle of wine per person.
This was 13 euros last year.
 
I still miss the lentil soups flavoured with chorizo - head and shoulders above any other starter in the three 'course' menu peregrino! If you go for that or the ensalada mista, and then your choice your protein in the main course, you'll get lots of good walking food at a very reasonable price. I kinda agree that some of the meals were a bit sad, but the company usually more than makes up for it, and if not, there's always the normal menu or the menu da dia. Anything with tomatoes was nice, because the toms were great! I think I walked for two weeks fantasising about grilled chicken, and lo and behold - in the square in Astorga I finally got one ... that was goood. Also in Cacabelos I had a three course meal in a sort of caverny restaurant halfway to the albergue and it was really good - the soup, the fish, the cakes, absolutely memorable. I am now officially taking notes for my next Camino, which will be even better food wise!
The point about the good company is very true. The night of the peas was actually one if the funniest nights we had on the Camino. I had tears in my eyes we were laughing so hard.

Another thing I just remembered was the incredible little pastry shop in Los Arcos on the main drag just before the square. They had some apple and custard pastries that we're to die for!
 
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.............Frankly I found many of the menu peregrino meals a ripoff, especially when they charge €12, serve cold French fries and stale bread with your skimpy main, and have the nerve to give you a Nestle ice cream cone and call it dessert................
What do you expect for a paltry 10 €, often including wine? Yes, I was very surprised to have a few pretty good peregrine dinners but frankly I never expected it. In some instances, I skipped the dinner and went to buy some fruit instead; at other times I prepared a delicious pasta for me and my compañeros (the Spanish seem to have a prob to cook pasta 'al dente' and generally don't know how to prepare a simple pomodoro sauce) but in 2/3rd of the times I browsed the pueblo for a restaurant and mostly got very acceptable food for a few coins more. These incidentally also often get you decent upgrades in albergues.
It's 'what you pay is what you get'. As for wine, a majority seems to be content with the most revolting stuff just as long as it's free.
For 3-5 € one can buy and share a very decent bottle of local wine.
One of the things that I found most remarkable on my Camino (I ended it last week on Oct 06) is that a majority of (anglo-saxon?) pilgrims are totally undemanding when it comes to food and wine quality, they just go for the cheapest. Now, nobody expects or wants the Camino to be a gourmet-walk but I think that awarding better food at restaurants with a few extra coins would create more competition and choices, besides of contributing to the economy of a very poor region. In most of the larger places, I enjoyed very good, in some ever exceptional food and wine and actually,–in spite of the physical exercise–, gained 2kg on the Camino as a final result. The seafood in Santiago (50€ including wine) was some of the best I experienced in all my well-travelled life!

IMG_1250.jpg

What I mean to say: It's YOUR Camino and if you feel like exploring good local food, don't let anyone stop you, settling for less does not make you a better human being; neither does of course the opposite but it tastes better.

Pierre aka Don Pedro
 
Yes PANO, but I often expected a tad more and better for €9-12. As such I gave up on menus peregrino and did precisely what you suggest. A lot of great self-catering and ordering ala carte from bars and restaurants. I even managed to splurge at a couple of Michelin 3-star places along the way. I was not going to allow the often overpriced, often one dimensional menu peregrino to define my culinary Camino. And completely agreed about the wine. The swill often served with the menu peregrino is the €1-bottle varietal, hardly to be considered a bonus or a good deal.
 
Last time I was craving veggies, was in Los Arcos and ordered the mixed vegetables. For some reason I had envisioned something similar to a Japanese stir fry with crispy snow peas. I got peas alright, only peas, in fact an entire bowl of just peas which I think had been quickly emptied out of the can into the microwave. The French pilgrims who sat down next to us shortly after we're equally unimpressed after ordering the same thing.

Oh.. Might that have been the place just opposite the church/cathedral? It was the culinary highlight of my camino where they served frozen fish as they main course....that would have been ok (what do you expect for 10 euro) had it actually been deep-fried long enough to defrost it!!

Best experience was in Puente la Reina.... In street parallel to the main street there were 2 or 3 resturants together full of Spanish sitting outside. Had the best Truta a la Navarra there in a 10 euro menu del dia. Probably the best fish I have ever eaten...amazing
 
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http://www.elpajardeages.es/ElAlbergue.htm
The Hospitaleros wife and daughter made arroz Castellano for the six of us, I had 3 helpings and we still didn't eat half of it.
I knew it was made with love when his daughter who was helping her mom came into the dining room and asked how dinner was.

I LOVE this albergue. The owners are from Extremadura and had been thinking about opening another albergue on the Vdlp. So far I haven't seen anything.

I had the same rice dish as you did there, twice. And I think that albergue owners who find a good meal and stick to it day in and day out are likely to have a lot of happy and satisfied peregrinos. I remember the Venta Celta in OCebreiro (though not an albergue) did the same thing. Caldo gallego, tortilla espanola, a huge salad, and OCebreiro cheese drenched in local honey. Or Alejandro in Bodenaya and his yummy lentils. etc etc
 
don't talk about food anymore, you are all making me longing for the excellent local restaurants in galicia frequented by the natives.

anyway, forget about the menu del peregrino. for a few euro more, splash out for the menu del dia which is of a higher quality than the menu del peregrino. once in santiago, do go to the excellent galician restaurants specialised in shellfish and fish, meat.

buen camino to all and god bless.
 
The best meal we had (so far) was at Deportivo in Navarette, cooked by an Italian chef who was known to one of our group. An absolute masterpiece.


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Never EVER go through Navarette without stopping here for the pilgrim menu!
Deportivo in Navarette has absolute the best blood sausage I have ever had in my life, the rest of the fare is beyond 4 star! It makes it worth skipping Logrono for the night b/c it's only about 4 km more. Make your next stop in Cireuna to fix dinner with Pedro!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Most private albergues along the CF serve home-cooked meals. We never had a bad meal when staying in these places. While the Pilgrims' Menu at any of the bar/cafes are generally good and quite nourishing, you'll get tired of eating essentially the same selections night after night. Especially good meals in private albergues I can recall were at the Refugio Acacio and Orietta in Vilaria de la Rioja, the tiny albergue at the Convento de San Anton, and Casa Banderas in Vilacha. All were cooked in-house by the hospilatero/hospilatera.
Jim
 
In the back of the bus station in Serria was a wonderful restaurant.
 
A few of the best meals I had were also at some of my favorite albergues: (I was craving veggies and these places delivered!)
Boadilla del Camino (thick flavorful bean soup)
Fonfria (veggie soup, rice and beef with mushrooms and peas--and I don't eat meat, but folks told me it was great)
Mazarife, the first albergue when you get into town. (beautiful salad with mixed greens, gazpacho, and paella.)
Albergue Paloma y Lena, a few km. before Sarria (soup, salad, quiche lorraine). A lovely dining room. This is a nice albergue!
 
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In the small town of Gonzar ran into a most unexpected, and wonderful meal. At the Albergue behind the church, for dinner we were offered Bison (Buffalo) steak! And the steaks were HUGE, and good.
 
Best meals: Prepared in the albergue kitchen after shopping locally with fellow pilgrims. cooking together in the albergue, with wine, bread, conversations and laughter. Brings money to the shop and economy to the pilgrims. It often amounted to 3-4 Euros/person for a lovely dinner/time before hitting the bed.
 
La Codorniz in Sahagun. http://www.hostallacodorniz.com/ It really demonstrated that el Menu del peregrino can be a fresh, healthy, well cooked, great value option.

Also the Menu del peregrino at Hostal Camino Real in Calzadilla de la Cueza. It is the only "game" in town, so it becomes the communal meal every night. The beef stew was phenomenal! Angel Acero (owner) shows tremendous kindness and cordiality to pilgrims. Great place.
 
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I'm a coeliac and I bloody near died! The poeple in rural areas don't go in for gluten free food.

This from Pieces sums it up

I honestly had no wonderful meals along the camino in the culinary sense. Wonderfull meals due to the company or due to me being famished yes but mostly the food along the Camino is mediocre or downright sad.
 
I'm a coeliac and I bloody near died! The poeple in rural areas don't go in for gluten free food.

This from Pieces sums it up

I honestly had no wonderful meals along the camino in the culinary sense. Wonderfull meals due to the company or due to me being famished yes but mostly the food along the Camino is mediocre or downright sad.
I had a few "interesting meals" but in general they were pretty mundane. Not being a great meat eater proved a problem for me. I always endeavoured to eat a salad of get a salad sandwich, however they were quite often ghastly. Still, I moved on and had the most wonderful Italian meal in Santiago de Compostela. The meals didn't figure highly in my journey and I was generally happy to have sustenance of some form. The supermarkets proved to be the best source of food for me.
On a few occasions the salad was half an iceberg lettuce (without any form of dressing being available) with 4 olives, a slither of cheese and perhaps a couple of slices of tomato. Quite tasteless, but better than eating grass.
 
Restaurant El Llar just before Santa Catalina de Somoza - mostly organic and vegetarian. The owner/chef is Pilar and she is a very interesting gal. I had lunch there and food was so good that I would have stopped early in order to try her dinner offerings, but Pilar was closing her resto that night for some reason.

Easy to miss - it's on your left-hand side.
 
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The best meals I had on my recent Camino were the communal meal in L'Esprit du Chemin in St Jean on the first night and at private albergue Verde in Hospital de Orbigo which was vegetarian made with organically grown produce. I also joined other pilgrims and we cooked on a few evenings in the albergues that had kitchen facilities and if I ever do another Camino I would do this more often. These meals were simple to make and very tasty. I ate pilgrims menus quite often also, I found these basic but substantial and quite inexpensive!
 
Yes I must agree that the shared meal at L'Espirit du Chemin in St Jean was memorable. I had just arrived by train and when I walked into the Albergue they were sitting around doing introductions and were waiting for me. This was really special. I stayed an extra day here after my 36 hours of travelling to get there. I highly recommend this place. It is a most pleasant place to commence the Camino.
 
Community dinners at
Albergue Hogar Monjardín in Villamayor de Monjardín,
Albergue Libéranos Dómine in Rabé de las Calzados,
Albergue Villares in Villages de Órbigo,
Albergue Casa Banderas in Vilachá

The last 2 have really nice breakfasts to offer as well. Number 2 had breakfast as well.

I think the price was € 8-10 for the dinner in all above.

Buen Camino

I agree! Albergue Hogar Monjardín was one of my favorites! I really liked my first night at L'Espirit du Chemin in St Jean as well.
 
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I was in the albergue Casa Carmen, in Barbadelo, and the menu was excellent! Host are warm and friendly. I recommend it!!
 
I had two memorable meals on the Camino.

In Mansillas de Mulas, we found out we had been walking with a chef. His name was Solar (sp?) and He was from the Canary Islands . He made a Paella dinner and we had pear cooked in wine sauce with a creme dressing.

The other was in Ribadiso, right after you cross the river? Just before Arzua. I had a steak there (late lunch) and it was very good. I considered walking back that evening but a Pulpo restaurant drew me in
 

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As you walk into Puente la Reina there will be a large hotel (sorry I don't know the name of it). It is not a place where most pilgrims stay - you will see lots of tour buses parked in front. After we checked into our albergue, we returned there in the evening for their "Pilgrim Menu" = 13 euros all you can eat buffet = salad bar, first course bar, 3 main course choices, dessert bar, wine tap and beer tap (yep, serve yourself all the wine or beer you want). The food and service were excellent. I was with 3 other very hungry men - I think they lost money on us.
 
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Hotel Jaques Puente ls Reina just as you come off track (I think that was its name) wonderful meal, avoid the breakfast piece of toast and orange juice not worth stopping for. Great little hiking shop in the old town on way through very reasonable, for basic stuff.
 
If the albergue had meals, I always paid the extra as the food was always fine. A Pedra albergue as you enter Sarria next door to the tourist office is a must. The hospitalero owns the bar next door and the meal he laid on was fantastic. Lots of wine included, more than the table could drink in fact, followed by after dinner liqueurs made for an excellent evening. Camino del Perdon albergue in Uterga as you come down off Alto del Perdon not only supplied a great dinner but an excellent breakfast aswell. Try also Albergue Lurgorri in Maneru. And finally San Antonio Padua albergue in Mazarife made an astounding paella. Other than that, just try any establishment with menu del peregrino and you will be well fed
 
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The most welcome meal we ate on the camino Frances was in Castrojeriz. After battling through a hail storm and collecting sufficient ice about my person to populate several G&T's, we arrived in the town to find the first albergue full. The next one we found had space and was full of character, but totally lacking in any form of heat. We quickly did our chores and went off in search of sustenance. We found a bar that was more like an English pub, with a roaring fire and the offer of hearty ham and potato soup. We ate the soup whilst watching through the window the start of a snow storm. We stayed in that bar for a very long time and had the best seats by the fireside as the place filled up with many other cold and hungry pilgrims. Great memories.

.....Camino Frances with my daughter: http://magwood.wordpress.com
 
If you want a really good menu del dia in Pamplona, go to the Cafe Iruna in Plaza de Castillo. Three courses, choice of 4 or 5 different dishes per course and a bottle of wine per person.
This was 13 euros last year.
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!! I'm going down this thead looking at the photos and pressing like , like , like ........yeowwwwwww , it all looks soooooooooooooooo good!
bernhugo , I agree - the Cafe Iruna is SUCH good value - I have probably eaten here 40 or 50 times - they have slipped up sometimes , much of the food is pre- cooked and they are in the habit of not warming it enough.
If anyone can tell me where I can get AS good a deal in Pamplona , I'll be there!
 
I will be leaving in a few weeks for St. Jean to begin my Camino--I would like to ask those Pilgrims who have already walked the Camino about wonderful meals that they have had on the way and recommendations for places not to miss. Thanks!
A great thread that should be seen.
 
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