Words of wisdom please

[Sara M]

I'm setting on out my first Camino on May 11th - from Irun to Finisterre. I'm giving myself plenty of time (up to 3 months) and carrying 6-7kg pack. I'm at the gym most days and walking as much as I can and excited by the adventure, but after a conversation with a friend last night, rather apprehensive....

She flew back from Bilboa yesterday having attempted some of the Camino del Norte and tells of dirty hostels, endless rain, huge mountains and ad-hoc signage. I don't think she enjoyed it at all, and although I'm not viewing my Camino as a holiday (I'm a pilgrim) I don't want to set out with unrealistic, unachievable expectations.

I'm just 60 (and as fit as I've been since my mid twenties) and do feel called to the Camino Del Norte, but am I crazy to attempt to set off alone and an appalling sense of direction? Should I start on the Frances, even though it would mean a change of travel plans?

Or is this a case of "Who so beset her round with dismal stories..."

 

[Marc S.]

Having walked the Norte, I do not recognize your friend's comments at all.

Dirty albergues. Maybe there are some, but you may occasionally encounter this at the CF or any other Camino. You may want to go through some of the threads on the Norte section of this forum, which give you an idea about the albergues.
Huge mountains. The stretch from Irun to Bilbao is physically challenging, but very beautiful, and there are enough options to break it into shorter stages. I met plenty of people in their 60's walking the Norte, so if you are reasonably fit you should be fine. Remember on the Frances there are some difficult stages as well.
Endless rain. Well, there could be rain, indeed.
Adhoc signage. This is just not true, imho, signage is excellent and I never got lost (and I do not have a good sense of direction either).
I think in May / June there will be plenty of pilgrims on the Norte, so it will not be lonely experience. Although, of course, the Frances is more crowded (in fact too crowded for some).

No need to loose your excitement for the Norte. Buen camino !

Marc.

 

[Kanga]

Sara, although I always recommend the Camino Frances as a first camino, your friend's experience on the Norte is not typical. The weather can be put down to the time of the year she walked; I would say if she has just come back it was far too early, winter really. We walked the Norte last year at exactly the time you are planning (I think we set off on the 10th May from Irun) and we had quite a few grey days but only two days of real rain. Quite often it was glorious weather, too cold to swim but sunshine and no wind. But it is "green" all the way, and of course that relates to rainfall. The flowers, btw, at that time of the year are just exceptional - quite stunning.

We did not find the terrain at all difficult - certainly ups and downs but definitely not mountain climbing. As always, if the going is strenuous, just take shorter days.

As for accommodation, because we were with friends who did not want to stay in albergues, we stayed in private accommodation booked through booking.com . The quality of the accommodation is reflected in the prices you pay. Ours was without exception very good and much, much cheaper than it would have been in Australia. Not sure where you are from but we find Spain great value. The drawback on the Norte from staying in private accommodation is that you do not meet people, the way that happens on the Camino Frances, simply because there are less people walking. I think it would be different staying in albergues.

Hope this helps.

 

[Thornley]

Go for it Sara, its beautiful.
Your friend walked the hardest part and if she overdid stages then she could have found trouble.
We tend to splurge in the first 3 -5 days as its a long flight from here and this system has worked well for these late 60 year olds.
There are one or two good sites on the hostels/albergues for the Norte but we never found one that was dirty when we walked a few years ago.
We are returning this year in June and commencing from Biarritz.
Take your time at the start , 4 days to Deba , nothing shorter.
Buen camino and enjoy the seafood / salad meals .

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I have to agree with The people above and encourage you to walk the Norte. It' s a Beautiful route, but one I would not suggest walking from November to late April as It will be rainy and coldish. As for dirty albergues, that was not my experience, even In The most basic like The Pobena albergue. Oh wait, The one in San Vicente de la Barquera is not well maintained, and The hospitalero is less than hospitable.

 

[Sara M]

Muchas gracias everyone for your encouraging comments and I will walk the del Norte...slowly! Good idea to trawl the threads for the names of recommended albergues and I'm really look forwarding to that sea-food. I'm kitted up with rain gear (huge red poncho) so I'm not too worried about that...it was more the terrain and signage.

 

[grayland]

I can echo the comments above.
I would suggest that your friend may have gone with the wrong expections and was surprised and disappointed. This happens more often now as it is often viewed as an inexpensive holiday.

The Norte does not have "mountains".
Albergues are very basic accomondations suited for pilgrims on a budget.
Albergues may or may not be well maintained and clean...depending on the hospitalaros working. True on all Caminos.
Many of us here are far older than you and have no difficulty. Age does not matter...fitness is the factor regardless of age.

Some people are just not ready and suited for the Camino and are greatly disappointed. This may be the case with your friend.
It is an adventure that takes you out of your normal comfort zone...

 

[Magwood]

@Sara M, I can't comment from experience on the Norte. But that will soon change. I am commencing my Camino next week from Irun and I will be posting to my blog every day live from the trail. I am the same age as you and will be walking alone. If you want some daily insight into the Camino del Norte, you can sign up to follow my blog...
https://magwood.me/el-norte-ingles/

 

[jayree]

In his daily presentation at his Güemes albuergue, La Cabaña del Abuelo Peuto, Father Ernesto Bustio described the CdN as "a little hard with mountains, asphalt, rain, highway intersections, hard to follow routes, and few albergues." But he thinks the biggest problem is that we are too dependent on modern technology and often walk without thinking, just following arrows. This stifles our creative ability to find our way." In other words, the CdN is a metaphor for life.

 

[jirit]

Hi Sara

"Or is this a case of "Who so beset her round with dismal stories..."" - from "To Be A Pilgrim"

I believe you have answered your own question.

"Arise, Go Forth and Conquer " any fears you may have.

 

[Joodle]

I'm setting on out my first Camino on May 11th - from Irun to Finisterre. I'm giving myself plenty of time (up to 3 months) and carrying 6-7kg pack. I'm at the gym most days and walking as much as I can and excited by the adventure, but after a conversation with a friend last night, rather apprehensive....

She flew back from Bilboa yesterday having attempted some of the Camino del Norte and tells of dirty hostels, endless rain, huge mountains and ad-hoc signage. I don't think she enjoyed it at all, and although I'm not viewing my Camino as a holiday (I'm a pilgrim) I don't want to set out with unrealistic, unachievable expectations.

I'm just 60 (and as fit as I've been since my mid twenties) and do feel called to the Camino Del Norte, but am I crazy to attempt to set off alone and an appalling sense of direction? Should I start on the Frances, even though it would mean a change of travel plans?

Or is this a case of "Who so beset her round with dismal stories..."

Hi Sara. I am turning 60 next week. I will be starting out from SJPP on May 12th with a stop at Orisson that night. If you change your travel plans and want to start out with someone, you are very welcome to join me. I am in pretty good shape and have been walking 8-10 miles with my full pack about 3 times a week. I am a little concerned about the wet spring, but I hope things will improve by the time I start out. I'm getting nervous as the times is fast approaching. Good luck with your travel plans

 

[Rajy62]

She flew back from Bilboa yesterday having attempted some of the Camino del Norte and tells of dirty hostels, endless rain, huge mountains and ad-hoc signage. I don't think she enjoyed it at all, and although I'm not viewing my Camino as a holiday (I'm a pilgrim) I don't want to set out with unrealistic, unachievable expectations."

Your friend is right. Norte is also referred to as the "green" coast. Rain Rain Rain. Norte is wetter than other Caminos. Your friend had bad luck with alberques. Most accommodations are for all travellers and are quiet good.

I started May 26th from Irun. Irun to Bilbao is usually muddy in the spring, several sections are just dirt roads with steep descends. So expect some challenging days during the first week. If I were you check the weather forecast and if needed/ possible adjust your travel plans.

Signage is reasonably good. One has to be attentive through major towns. Norte is a stunning walk, I enjoyed it more than the Frances.

 

[Niels]

I'm setting on out my first Camino on May 11th - from Irun to Finisterre. I'm giving myself plenty of time (up to 3 months) and carrying 6-7kg pack. I'm at the gym most days and walking as much as I can and excited by the adventure, but after a conversation with a friend last night, rather apprehensive....

She flew back from Bilboa yesterday having attempted some of the Camino del Norte and tells of dirty hostels, endless rain, huge mountains and ad-hoc signage. I don't think she enjoyed it at all, and although I'm not viewing my Camino as a holiday (I'm a pilgrim) I don't want to set out with unrealistic, unachievable expectations.

I'm just 60 (and as fit as I've been since my mid twenties) and do feel called to the Camino Del Norte, but am I crazy to attempt to set off alone and an appalling sense of direction? Should I start on the Frances, even though it would mean a change of travel plans?

Or is this a case of "Who so beset her round with dismal stories..."

Starting my Camino del Norte in three days (April 19th), I know, it won't be hot, but coming from Denmark I'm not expecting it to be neither more muddy or colder, and the weather foresight proves me right. But I guess, expectations differs. However, my main concern goes with the steep ascends and descends on muddy trails, but coming through the first stages, things eventually will be getting better ... I hope!

As for dirty albergues, rain and mud gives dirty places in a couple of hours - even in totally clean albergues.

Buen Camino, Niels!

 

[filly]

Hi Sara. I am turning 60 next week. I will be starting out from SJPP on May 12th with a stop at Orisson that night. If you change your travel plans and want to start out with someone, you are very welcome to join me. I am in pretty good shape and have been walking 8-10 miles with my full pack about 3 times a week. I am a little concerned about the wet spring, but I hope things will improve by the time I start out. I'm getting nervous as the times is fast approaching. Good luck with your travel plans

I begin on 26 May from Asturias airport to finish the Norte so you may have caught up with me!! Can anyone tell me whether Aviles is worth an overnight stop, thus beginning on the 27th? I have cleverly missed the dispiriting Gijon to Aviles industrial area... And I branched off to Oviedo last summer to walk the Primitivo (divine!) A wet spring... Have not seen mud since a spring via de la Plata a few years ago... I eve had to strip Dow to cross swollen rios

 

[Marc S.]

Aviles is a nice little old town and definitely worth an overnight stop. Recommended.

 

[Jacquie Cattanach]

Starting my Camino del Norte in three days (April 19th), I know, it won't be hot, but coming from Denmark I'm not expecting it to be neither more muddy or colder, and the weather foresight proves me right. But I guess, expectations differs. However, my main concern goes with the steep ascends and descends on muddy trails, but coming through the first stages, things eventually will be getting better ... I hope!

As for dirty albergues, rain and mud gives dirty places in a couple of hours - even in totally clean albergues.

Buen Camino, Niels!

Hola Niels, we are in Hondurribia right now starting our Camino in the morning (18th). Since we are staying 2 nights in San Sebastian our paths may cross. Will be looking our for you.

Buen Camino

 

[Niels]

Hola Niels, we are in Hondurribia right now starting our Camino in the morning (18th). Since we are staying 2 nights in San Sebastian our paths may cross. Will be looking our for you.

Buen Camino

Hi again Jacquie,

Hope to see you as well. I plan to to spend the day in San Sebastian - visit the church, eating pinxos etc., but go on to Orio to stay there Wednesday night. But you know, things might change.

Buen Camino to see you as well

 

[Jacquie Cattanach]

Hi again Jacquie,

Hope to see you as well. I plan to to spend the day in San Sebastian - visit the church, eating pinxos etc., but go on to Orio to stay there Wednesday night. But you know, things might change.

Buen Camino to see you as well[/QUOTE

Well, we made the 1st day from Hondurribia to SS. I have to say that I found it tough. We took the Alpinista route. It was a beautiful day and views were spectacular. Everything was well signposted, loved it all, but was glad to get to SS. Looking forward to seeing SS tomorrow and, to be honest, feeling glad we have the day off. There'll be lots of hills to climb yet. The pintxo's are amazing! Buen Camino!