Zamora to Santiago via Sanabres

[laineylainey]

Hi to everyone who has walked the wonderful VdlP (and to those who hope to, like me!).
I am planning to go back next September to restart where I finished this year, Zamora, and walk to Santiago via the Sanabres. It's only 18 days walking but as usual I like to have the odd extra day just being a tourist. My question is, what places from Zamora would you recommend spending an extra day it you had the time?
thanks in advance!

 

[Bradypus]

Ourense. The hot springs are a great way to relax and unwind.

 

[SYates]

Have a look from this post https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-february-abril-2016.38377/page-2#post-391453 onward and take your pick ;-)

Buen Camino, SY

 

[laineylainey]

Ourense. The hot springs are a great way to relax and unwind.

Swimsuit packed!

 

[laineylainey]

Have a look from this post https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-february-abril-2016.38377/page-2#post-391453 onward and take your pick ;-)

Buen Camino, SY

Thanks @SYates , great stuff!

 

[Colette Z]

Thanks @SYates, looking forward to a late Feb start.

 

[gollygolly]

Strong recommendations - allow plenty of time to see Zamora before you start, Pueblo de Sanabria, Ourense and go to the Monasterio de Oseria.

Buen camino !

 

[Deleted member 73526]

I'll be walking from Salamanca with a German friend in early September. We might bump into you. The descriptions in SYates' posts brought back good memories. Places that I enjoyed stopping in were:
1. Zamora (1 day): Cathedral and numerous romanesque churches, Art Deco city centre (some buildings in decay), Museums and galleries (esp. the Baltasar Lobo foundation, Cathedral museum, and Museo de Zamora), and great food and drink. Unfortunately, the excellent albergue limits pilgrims to one night.
2. Rionegro del Puente (a lazy afternoon): Three hour lunch at Asociacion Gastronomica 'Me Gusta Comer.'
3. Puebla Sanabria (a couple of hours): Explore the historic town.
4. Xunqueira de Ambia (a couple of hours): Nice town and church. Avoid the unfriendly bar with vines over the entrance. Restaurant Guede will make you feel more welcome. Bar/Cafe Copas does a good breakfast.
5. Ourense (half a day): Soak in the public baths. Don't bother with the fancy "Japanese" private one. Nice restaurants in the old streets to the east of the cathedral.
6. Cea (a couple of hours): Beautiful village. Look around the old bakeries and horreos.

 

[laineylainey]

Raggy, brilliant suggestions thanks for taking the time to share. Hope to start walking from Zamora 3rd Sept. Yes I was lucky enough to spend a day at Zamora (and Mérida and Salamanca) this Sept. I feel the VdLP is a Camino that need to be savoured as there are no many wonderful cities and towns.
Buen Camino

 

[C clearly]

Thanks for the question and the answers! I might be walking that route in April, so I'm taking notes.

 

[laineylainey]

Looking at a couple of peoples' routes (thanks again!). I wonder if walking from Puebla de Sanabria, is it worth missing out Requejo de Sanabria as a overnight stop and heading to Lubian (about 33k?) and also Laza to Ourense ( 29K?) missing out Vilar de Barrio, or are Requejo de Sanabria and Vilar de Barrio places to stay?

 

[laineylainey]

Oops, I missed out Xunqueira de Ambia between Vilar de Barrio and Ourense! So a stop in Vilar de Barrio but then 29K to Ourense or a stop in Xunqueria de Ambia and then on to Ourense? Also is it worth stopping over In Cea en route to Monasterio de Oseria?

 

[KinkyOne]

Looking at a couple of peoples' routes (thanks again!). I wonder if walking from Puebla de Sanabria, is it worth missing out Requejo de Sanabria as a overnight stop and heading to Lubian (about 33k?) and also Laza to Ourense ( 29K?) missing out Vilar de Barrio, or are Requejo de Sanabria and Vilar de Barrio places to stay?

To answer shortly to both of your posts:
- Requejo de Sanabria: you won't have much to do here although private albergue is quite nice and the nearby restaurant further up the road have good food,
- Lubian: muni albergue can be crowded as most people do Puebla-Lubian stage I think but the next stage which is harder would be shorter in this case. Nice little village for an afternoon stroll.
- Laza to Vilar de Barrio is nice stage. Both have nice and modern although a bit soulless albergues,
- Xunqueira de Ambia to Ourense is the least pleasant stretch of the Sanabres in my eyes. I would stop in Xunqueira and have a longer day in Ourense but it depends on overall of days you have and how long stages you can/want to walk,
- Cea or Oseira: I wouldn't know. Although I walked both options from Cea I didn't sleep in Oseira. Cea muni albergue is nice but usually crowded (same on my two visits) that's why this year I decided to push it for another km to Cotelas where I stayed for two nights in private albergue "O'Refugio".

 

[laineylainey]

@KinkyOne thank you so much. I just love getting information from those who have walked a route.

 

[camino07]

I cheated a bit and taxied from Puebla to Requejo and then walked to Lubian. Enjoyed the cozy albergue with its one toilet and shower. Fancy Pension just nearby if you prefer,we went for breakfast there. Plenty of restaurants up on the main road for menu too.
Modern,clean Albergue in Xunquiera and then walked to Ourense where I treated myself to an hotel for 2 nights.
Loved the rustic Albergue in Cea and had breakfast at O'Refugio in Cotelas on the way to Oseira. Too early to stop so walked on to Castro Dozen. I have walked the Sanabres twice and love it.

 

[Via2010]

Last time we cheated, too, and took a taxi from Puebla de Sanabría to Requejo. But if I walk the Sanabrés again, I would walk from Rionegro del Puente to Asturianos, then from Asturianos to Requejo with a bigger lunch break in Puebla de Sanabría.

 

[Martyduc]

Puebla de Sanabria earlier this year was ok for a days rest ,and Ourense definately worth the day
But please go and visit Teo (i hope thats right ) at "my gusta comer"in Rionegro del Puente ,,just fantastic food and he loves to cook ,,and is such good value too,,,,, was walking with a french lady and we so enjoyed our lunch ,,finishing at 4 pm ,,,so a siesta in the albergue which is straight across the road,,and we were back again at 8 for the next meal,,,,even better and completely different ,, is fixed menu ,,we had 5 courses that night with wine ,coffee and unlimited orujos !! (not sure of the spelling,,but 3 different after dinner digestifs),,, and was still able to walk the next day !!!

 

[laineylainey]

So many people recommending "Me Gusta Comer" in Rionegro, it´s on my "must experience" list now!

 

[laineylainey]

For those who have stayed in Palacios de Sanabria instead of Asturianos, I believe there is a woman who rents out rooms in a private house, any idea what it's called or is it easy enough to find in the village?

 

[LTfit]

I've walked the Sanabres three times and would opt to stay in the Monastery in Oseira. First time and third time I stayed there, the second I thought I would try the other route. Take the tour of the monastery and stop by their store, they have nice chocolate!

Only minus point is the temperature inside the albergue which is great if warm to hot outside but less so in cool weather but there are blankets.

I have never stayed in Rionegro but hear that the food is great as others have mentioned.

 

[laineylainey]

I've walked the Sanabres three times and would opt to stay in the Monastery in Oseira. First time and third time I stayed there, the second I thought I would try the other route. Take the tour of the monastery and stop by their store, they have nice chocolate!

Only minus point is the temperature inside the albergue which is great if warm to hot outside but less so in cool weather but there are blankets.

I have never stayed in Rionegro but hear that the food is great as others have mentioned.

Thanks for that suggestion.

 

[KinkyOne]

So many people recommending "Me Gusta Comer" in Rionegro, it´s on my "must experience" list now!

It's a must! Here's the chef:



Four courses dinner (first meal photo not taken, arghhh) for 10€ I think with wine and...







... three different orujos (from left: orujo blanco, crema de orujo & orujo de hierba):



For me Rionegro del Puente will always be a must stop not only for the "Me gusta comer" but also for the one of the best albergues and village beach on the Rio Negro on a hot summer day

 

[Martyduc]

It's a must! Here's the chef:

View attachment 49307

Four courses dinner (first meal photo not taken, arghhh) for 10€ I think with wine and...

View attachment 49308

View attachment 49309

View attachment 49310

... three different orujos (from left: orujo blanco, crema de orujo & orujo de hierba):

View attachment 49311

For me Rionegro del Puente will always be a must stop not only for the "Me gusta comer" but also for the one of the best albergues and village beach on the Rio Negro on a hot summer day

Thanks for the photos,,,,oh and if enough from the albergue want him to do breakfast he will do so,,,

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Haha. I know this is getting off topic, but ... here's my Monsieur Creosote moment:

 

[camino07]

 

[laineylainey]

Brilliant photos!

 

[laineylainey]

Is ".me gusta comer" open on a Sunday?

 

[Deleted member 73526]

Is ".me gusta comer" open on a Sunday?

The facebook page suggests that it is open every day, but I assume that the chef must rest at some point, so you might want to call ahead and check.
https://www.facebook.com/Ag.MeGustaComer/app/254084314702229/

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks for that!

 

[laineylainey]

Another question!
Are there any other options of where to stay between Cea and Punte Ulla, not including A Laxe? Now thinking I might do 4 days from Cea to Santiago instead of planned 3, but would love to hear from others.

 

[Martyduc]

Another question!
Are there any other options of where to stay between Cea and Punte Ulla, not including A Laxe? Now thinking I might do 4 days from Cea to Santiago instead of planned 3, but would love to hear from others.

Last May I stayed Cea ,,,then Castro Dozon,,Silleda ,,Ponte Ulla then Santiago ,

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks for that.

 

[laineylainey]

@Martyduc did you do the Monasterio route from Cea about 20k?

 

[Martyduc]

@Martyduc did you do the Monasterio route from Cea about 20k?

haa,,no I didn't but would next time !!!!!

 

[KinkyOne]

Another question!
Are there any other options of where to stay between Cea and Punte Ulla, not including A Laxe? Now thinking I might do 4 days from Cea to Santiago instead of planned 3, but would love to hear from others.

Plenty of options. Check out this:
https://www.gronze.com/etapa/cea/lalin
Instead of A Laxe you can sleep in nice town of Lalin (which is technically on Camino de Invierno) by taking a taxi to/back.
And there's brand new albergue opened this year on the last leg to SdC:
https://www.gronze.com/galicia/coruna/deseiro-sergude#albergues
Very nice people. Lady of the house remembered me every time I stopped there for a beer and I got free pulpo ration Nice folks.

Happy planning and Buen Camino!

 

[laineylainey]

Plenty of options. Check out this:
https://www.gronze.com/etapa/cea/lalin
Instead of A Laxe you can sleep in nice town of Lalin (which is technically on Camino de Invierno) by taking a taxi to/back.
And there's brand new albergue opened this year on the last leg to SdC:
https://www.gronze.com/galicia/coruna/deseiro-sergude#albergues
Very nice people. Lady of the house remembered me every time I stopped there for a beer and I got free pulpo ration Nice folks.

Happy planning and Buen Camino!

Thanks for that very useful information and good wishes.

 

[laineylainey]

Just another question, sorry.
I am hoping to stay in Rionegro to eat at the well recommended "Me Gusta Comer". After that I would like to stop somewhere between there and Puebla de Sanabria. What do people recommend?

 

[Martyduc]

Hi

Just another question, sorry.
I am hoping to stay in Rionegro to eat at the well recommended "Me Gusta Comer". After that I would like to stop somewhere between there and Puebla de Sanabria. What do people recommend?

Checked my notes,,,,we stayed at Entrepenas in the Casa Rural El Cuco ,,,right on the camino (was walking with another,,normally im solo,,) so was a chance for a little luxury,,the couple who own it ,cooked dinner and were really nice !!! Buen Camino

 

[laineylainey]

Hi again @Martyduc , thanks for that. I did see on Gronze, Entrepenas and the fact there is a Casa Rural. That would split the journey nicely, sound a good option.

 

[camino07]

We stayed in the municipal in Asturianos. Small, clean and attached to the sports hall. Also has bar,resto.

 

[Joselito]

Hi to everyone who has walked the wonderful VdlP (and to those who hope to, like me!).
I am planning to go back next September to restart where I finished this year, Zamora, and walk to Santiago via the Sanabres. It's only 18 days walking but as usual I like to have the odd extra day just being a tourist. My question is, what places from Zamora would you recommend spending an extra day it you had the time?
thanks in advance!

Zamora itself is pretty neat; this past September 1-15 I served as a hospitalero there at the municipal albergue. We would typically allow pilgrims to stay an extra night if it wasn't full up, although that is a possibility. There's a good amount to see, all pretty close by, and the food is excellent. Joe

 

[Joselito]

haa,,no I didn't but would next time !!!!!

I did in 2016. Pretty crowded but a beautiful experience. Got coffee/breakfast on way out of town. Well worth it!

 

[Joselito]

Last May I stayed Cea ,,,then Castro Dozon,,Silleda ,,Ponte Ulla then Santiago ,

Leiras. When you enter the town, there's an albergue on the right hand side of the road run by a young Italian couple. Great food and even greater conversation. They've walked the walk, are very intense; it was the most meaningful stay of my Camino.

 

[Joselito]

Oops, I missed out Xunqueira de Ambia between Vilar de Barrio and Ourense! So a stop in Vilar de Barrio but then 29K to Ourense or a stop in Xunqueria de Ambia and then on to Ourense? Also is it worth stopping over In Cea en route to Monasterio de Oseria?

I think so. We arrived during a festival, with terrific pulpo and wine!