Zubiri, Urdaniz or Larrasoana??

[StFina]

I am leaving SJPP on May 29th, first night in Orisson, then Roncesvalles. I am torn between staying in Zubiri, Urdaniz or Larrasoana. I have a suspicion that Zubiri, being one of the Brierly stops, might be crowded. Any opinions on the above towns? Any recommendations on places to stay?

 

[mspath]

I am leaving SJPP on May 29th, first night in Orisson, then Roncesvalles. I am torn between staying in Zubiri, Urdaniz or Larrasoana. I have a suspicion that Zubiri, being one of the Brierly stops, might be crowded. Any opinions on the above towns? Any recommendations on places to stay?

In Zubiri the private albergue, El Palo de Avellano, is VERY pleasant. They offer both dorm rooms and private accommodations.
Several small traditional stone structures have been nicely converted into the multilevel space and they provide a delicious communal dinner as well as breakfast.

The only difficulty is the camino descent from the Alto de Erro to Zubiri ; this can be treacherous hell in bad weather such as heavy rain, sleet or snow. Hence from the Alto I have often descended off the camino on the parallel road N135.

Good luck and Buen camino!

 

[HighlandsHiker]

I'd like to second El Palo de Avellano. And if I'd known about taking the N135 to avoid that descent, as mspath said above, I would have surely taken it.

 

[Robo]

I have only walked that section From Roncesvalles to Zubiri once so far, in May 2015. And due to injury decided to take the N135 route, rather than the steep slippery descent. (It was raining that day) Thank you mspath for that tip at the time.

I would just like to point out that the N135 route is not without 'challenges'. Caveat Emptor........

These 3 short video clips will give an idea of the challenges I mean. Obviously I have not walked the more traditional route yet. But next year I certainly will I think. Regardless of the weather.

A few times I had drivers honking their horns at me. And at one stage a Police Car cruised past and I thought they were going to pluck me off the side of the road for endangering myself....

Your call. As said, I have not yet experienced the 'difficult' path down the traditional route.

There were no other Pilgrims on this route.

 

[trecile]

Why not wait and see how you feel that day?

 

[HighlandsHiker]

Maybe it wouldn't be the preference for first-time Frances walkers, but my second time, I took the 09:20 Artieda autobus (Monday - Saturday only) from Roncesvalles to Pamplona and just avoided the whole stretch.

 

[donalomahony]

Loved larrasona. Typically camino.

 

[NoQ]

Larrasoana is quite a long walk after a previous tough day over the mountains. Zubiri is still a challenging walk with its share of ups and downs and I wouldn't like such a long walk as to Larrasoana so early in the Camino when feet and tendons and muscles are still growing accustomed. It has plenty of accommodation and a couple of really nice bars in the centre. It also has some great spots in the middle of the river to sit on a rock and soak tired feet.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I still remember soaking my feet in the river passing under the Puente de la Rabia in Zubiri, and having a nap on the lawn between the albergue and the river. That was 10 years ago. Back then there wasn't much going on in town, and a muni and a small private only, bit that eiver, that bridge ...

 

[Katie Brown]

I stayed in Zubiri, at Rio Arga Ibaia right after the bridge. Zubiri for me is one of my favourite towns that I visited. The river is a lovely place to sit, soak your feet in the cold water, and write in your journal/read a book.

I also had the best (and one too many ) sangria at Valentin bar, just down the street, which also doubles as a supermarket. Though in the morning, we stopped for breakfast at Larrasoana and it seemed like a lovely little village too. See how you're feeling once you get to Zubiri, as the descent can be fairly rough, even in perfect conditions.

 

[Icacos]

My companion and I didn't know about the N135 route to Zubiri, and we went down the steep trail. It was very wet, with mud, snow and slush, but we found it a most interesting challenge and thoroughly enjoyed the descent. Mind you, I would not like to have attempted it without my poles to provide crucial stability. (My companion had only her walking staff and she wished she'd also had two poles.) Having said that, I don't think it would have been a good idea negotiating that descent if we'd had dodgy knees or ankles.

R135 may well be preferable in certain circumstances, but the videos above don't show any shoulders and I'm not sure I would be comfortable walking on it for that reason.

 

[LdnWalker]

Have had lovely stays in both Zubiri and Larrasoana. The second time I walked this section I opted to stay at Zubiri as the extra kms to Larrasoana make it a long second or third day. There's more accommodation options in Zubiri but both places can furnish you with nice places to relax and eat.

 

[FLEUR]

I thought I would reach Larrasoana but decided I had walked far enough by the time I reached Zubiri. The steep descent was challenging but o.k. as the weather was good. I too was glad I had two poles to provide some stability.

 

[Bala]

I have only walked that section From Roncesvalles to Zubiri once so far, in May 2015. And due to injury decided to take the N135 route, rather than the steep slippery descent. (It was raining that day) Thank you mspath for that tip at the time.

I would just like to point out that the N135 route is not without 'challenges'. Caveat Emptor........

These 3 short video clips will give an idea of the challenges I mean. Obviously I have not walked the more traditional route yet. But next year I certainly will I think. Regardless of the weather.

A few times I had drivers honking their horns at me. And at one stage a Police Car cruised past and I thought they were going to pluck me off the side of the road for endangering myself....

Your call. As said, I have not yet experienced the 'difficult' path down the traditional route.

There were no other Pilgrims on this route.

This is a real service to future pilgrims, @Robo . I have wondered in retrospect if maybe I should have taken the road. Seeing your videos, I'm very glad I didn't. I found the steep, stony path challenging, and I was very glad I wore boots and had poles. But I'll take stones and challenges over cars any day .

@StFina , as to where to stop, I agree with those who say see how you feel. I should have ended in Zubiri -- I was plain worn out. But my husband was already up ahead in our agreed-upon hostal in Larrasoana. Those last few kilometres were killers.

Zubiri was larger and much livelier, but I actually preferred the smaller, quieter Larrasoana. And it made for a shorter day into Pamplona. But if I were to do it again, I'd let my feet do the deciding.

Buen Camino!

 

[Priscilla NC]

I did mine a bit differently: from Roncesvalles, I walked to Viskarrete (sometimes spelled with a B) and stayed there (I did stay at Corazon Pura, but it is closed now -- but I think another albergue there??? But other villages close by).

Then the next day I walked to Zabaldika, and had a very pleasant afternoon and night there in the parroquial albergue, one of my favorite evenings. they do take reservations. Doing this, I was not tired for the steep descent into Zubiri, and the Way from Zubiri to Zabaldika was beautiful along the river.

It was then a short walk into Pamplona, I did not stay there but spent some time there, and stopped at Albergue Maribel Roncal in Cizur Menor past Pamplona.

I think I would do this again, but if you have time constraints, this may not be for you. I'm just putting out a different alternative.

Oh, I just remembered: just past Zubiri, there's a fairly new albergue in a very old building called The Abbey. A woman I walked with some was involved in its development. Sounds like an interesting place, not sure where they are with the renovations -- might be very rustic?

Buen Camino!

 

[Jersey]

Wow. That looks dangerous
Much too easy for a car to clip ya
Thanks for posting Robo

 

[Former member 62607]

I am leaving SJPP on May 29th, first night in Orisson, then Roncesvalles. I am torn between staying in Zubiri, Urdaniz or Larrasoana. I have a suspicion that Zubiri, being one of the Brierly stops, might be crowded. Any opinions on the above towns? Any recommendations on places to stay?

Stayed in akeretta oct 2016 just past larrasoana as I recall, it was really great, used as a location in the film 'the way'. Really relaxing, nice dinner, and they will do your laundry for a charge.

 

[AlwynWellington]

@StFina , while not now in the flush of youth I walked Roncesvalles to Zabaldika in early May 2016. This was just on 33 km and well within my training walks of up to 40 km over similar country.

The only steep descent I recall was a pathway paved with flagstones. As some of the Frances route is now on Google Street View you can check it out yourselves.

Kia kaha (take care, be strong, get going)

 

[AlwynWellington]

@Robo , I must say I am greatly surprised you walked any part of a major road that, over an extended length, did not have shoulders. Especially a road with a significant number of tight curves with high banks on one side and steep drops on the other.

I am surprised you survived in one piece and not surprised at motorists honking at you.

Having said that I generally prefer road walking, especially when it is wet underfoot.

I check out sections that are winding, or steep, on Google street view before doing so.

I am sure you would be aware, in Europe, to walk on the left facing the oncoming traffic.

The exceptions to that rule being when your way is turning left against a bank of hedge (or whatever) that obscures your view of oncoming traffic (and, more importantly, them of you) that will naturally drive on your roadside shoulder as they take their right hand turn.

You take care.

 

[Robo]

@Robo , I must say I am greatly surprised you walked any part of a major road that, over an extended length, did not have shoulders. Especially a road with a significant number of tight curves with high banks on one side and steep drops on the other..

Had I known what the road was like, I would not have used it!
That section of road is often suggested as an 'easy' alternative to the steep rocky descent into Zubiri. My intention in sharing the videos was to make others aware that IMHO, the road option may in fact be more dangerous...

 

[AlwynWellington]

The only difficulty is the camino descent from the Alto de Erro to Zubiri ; this can be treacherous hell in bad weather such as heavy rain, sleet or snow. Hence from the Alto I have often descended off the camino on the parallel road N135.

I can't dispute with you about the nature of the descent from Alto de Erro in any weather.

I have no recollection of that particular section when I was there early May 2016.

But I do remember much of the journey that day. For example I remember entering Lintzoain and seeing the scallop shell with the base "pointing" a left turn and the tines pointing towards a building. So far so good. 50 metres on another shell had the base "pointing" ahead. Wrong move. I should have turned right, following the tines.

And going down the N135 from Alro de Erro is a very wrong move. As is using many other sections of the N135 from Roncesvalles to Pamplona.

That section is winding, has sharp corners. There are steep banks on one side and a steep fall on the other. And NO shoulders.

This an EXTREMELY dangerous situation for anyone (driver or walker) to be in. And I say this advisedly as I prefer road walking when the designated pathway is uneven or mushy.

And this dangerous situation is relatively obvious as one crosses the N135 at Alto de Erro.

As others have posted recently on many conversations: take much advice with a grain of salt and check it out for yourself.

As the saying goes: one persons meat can be another persons poison (or death in this case).

Kia kaha (take care) is always appropriate.

 

[domigee]

Why not wait and see how you feel that day?

I second that. How can we possibly advise since we don't know how you'll feel on that day, what the weather will be like....? You may be worn out, cold and exhausted or in top form and rearing to go further....

The CF is a path that is crowded, yes, but for good reason: there are plenty of choices, unlike other caminos. Take advantage of it's good points.

 

[RENSHAW]

I am leaving SJPP on May 29th, first night in Orisson, then Roncesvalles. I am torn between staying in Zubiri, Urdaniz or Larrasoana. I have a suspicion that Zubiri, being one of the Brierly stops, might be crowded. Any opinions on the above towns? Any recommendations on places to stay?

You may want to search for a thread I started a while back 'Zubiri - alternative accommodation' , There is also a nice little Deli - supermacardo in Zubiri.

 

[pvh]

Last year we stayed here in Urdaniz http://alojamientosacayalla.com/urdaniz/
Without doubt the best albergue we stayed in I think. As there were 4 of us we had it to ourselves (there are 6 bunks) There's a pool and Jesus the owner is just the most welcoming and friendly host. He also cooked us a brilliant meal for €10/person, or there's a kitchen for self catering.

 

[LesR]

Larrasoana is quite a long walk after a previous tough day over the mountains. Zubiri is still a challenging walk with its share of ups and downs and I wouldn't like such a long walk as to Larrasoana so early in the Camino when feet and tendons and muscles are still growing accustomed. It has plenty of accommodation and a couple of really nice bars in the centre. It also has some great spots in the middle of the river to sit on a rock and soak tired feet.

 

[LesBrass]

This year I left Roncesvalles a month before you and granted it was the May Day holiday weekend but it was very busy.

We never booked ahead and we reached Zubiri before lunch. We stopped for something to eat but it was too early for us to stop. We walked on to Larrasoana but when we arrived everything was booked. We walked on to the next stop (full) and the next stop (full) and the next (full) and eventually we took the last 3 beds at the albergue at Zabaldika... 37km from Roncesvalles.

We had walked through a storm and about 5 hours of rain; it wasn't my most favourite camino day ever but I have to say it wasn't the worst either.

This was my third outing from Roncesvalles and by far the busiest. So along with all the other voices saying see how you feel, I would also say think about finding a bed too

 

[Camino Chrissy]

This year I left Roncesvalles a month before you and granted it was the May Day holiday weekend but it was very busy.

We never booked ahead and we reached Zubiri before lunch. We stopped for something to eat but it was too early for us to stop. We walked on to Larrasoana but when we arrived everything was booked. We walked on to the next stop (full) and the next stop (full) and the next (full) and eventually we took the last 3 beds at the albergue at Zabaldika... 37km from Roncesvalles.

We had walked through a storm and about 5 hours of rain; it wasn't my most favourite camino day ever but I have to say it wasn't the worst either.

This was my third outing from Roncesvalles and by far the busiest. So along with all the other voices saying see how you feel, I would also say think about finding a bed too

We walked in April, 2017 from Roncevalles to Urdaniz where we had a reservation. We stopped in Zubiri on the way to take a quick look around and noticed a big bus loading up many pilgrims and their packs. Don't know where they were being transported, but all of Zubiri beds were full and these peregrinos had to be taken somewhere else...maybe all the way to Pamplona? Oh, wait, we'd read that beds there were full too, (Holy Week) and one man even had to sleep on a park bench.