- Time of past OR future Camino
- Ponferrada to Santiago (2019)
Seville to Zafra (2020)
Porto to Santiago (2020)
I have now completed just over half of the walk from Reading to Southampton in the UK section of the Camino Ingles and imagine there are those who might be considering it and also those who have completed it and may disagree with me. So let me firstly say that I applaud the CSJ (UK) for developing and promoting this route as a prequel to the section in northern Galicia. I believe they worked hard to get recognition and certainly the band of volunteers who put direction stickers did a great job - BUT! I started on Monday 14th which I soon found out was a bad day as the Reading Museum was closed (my fault I know) the official starting point of the Church of St James was also closed I really wanted the stamp so knocked on the door of the vestry and apologised to the busy lady for interrupting and asked if it was possible to have the stamp. She said “It happens all the time” gave me the stamp and that was it - no good luck or Buen Camino.The weather was pretty grim and the walk out of Reading likewise but I expected that. For the most part the walk was uneventful following the river and not unduly muddy. Now the main problem with this Camino is the lack of accommodation en route. This means that it is really not affordable for many. The options are to return to larger towns by bus or train and stay in fairly expensive accommodation. I stayed the first night in Mortimer 12.5 miles from Reading in an exceptional airbnb right on the path. The owner had not really heard of the Camino or hosted any other walkers. Anyone planning to go ahead with this walk please check out airbnb.I had hoped to eat at the local pub but (you guessed it) it was closed for food.
The next day I was joined by a friend and the weather was warm but it was not advisable to walk in shorts as much of the path was overgrown with nettles and brambles lining the way. One of the reasons I had company for the day was my friend had wanted to visit the Roman city of Silchester. Well, we spent ages looking for it because all that is left are ramparts and the amphitheatre is merely a round patch of ground - the colosseum it is not. I certainly advise against wasting time on this diversion. Because of the lack of accommodation we returned home from Worting. Today (Wednesday) was a beautiful day and despite the late start because of travel I began to feel the joy of the walk and maybe just a bit more like a pilgrim. A highlight being a lunch stop in the pub in Dummer to see England Ladies’ football team win.
Feeling a bit more positive about the whole experience I followed the well sign - posted route until after the village of Preston Candover it required a fairly long walk up a road with no pedestrian verge. Now you might think these are quiet country roads but they do not have speed cameras and the locals use this opportunity to see how fast their car can really go. I was relieved to arrive at the turn into a field and away from the main road. Unfortunately I had really hit a problem now as this particular day the field was being harvested and enormous machinery was going back and forth with dust and debris flying everywhere. It didn’t actually look safe to enter. Reluctantly I rejoined the dangerous road and walked the hard miles to my destination of New Alresford. From there I used buses and trains to get home as accommodation was very expensive.
I will continue the walk as I don’t give up, but honestly my experience of this Camino has been a major disappointment. I feel it has been ‘manufactured’ rather than authentic. Much of it is uncomfortable walking on the edge of ploughed fields, narrow overgrown paths or scary roads. Unless, in some way accommodation could be more convenient and affordable it will not attract people on a budget. I am sure there are those who have gone before who feel differently but I am commenting personally on my experience of the last 3 days. I am looking forward to the next chapter from A Coruna
The next day I was joined by a friend and the weather was warm but it was not advisable to walk in shorts as much of the path was overgrown with nettles and brambles lining the way. One of the reasons I had company for the day was my friend had wanted to visit the Roman city of Silchester. Well, we spent ages looking for it because all that is left are ramparts and the amphitheatre is merely a round patch of ground - the colosseum it is not. I certainly advise against wasting time on this diversion. Because of the lack of accommodation we returned home from Worting. Today (Wednesday) was a beautiful day and despite the late start because of travel I began to feel the joy of the walk and maybe just a bit more like a pilgrim. A highlight being a lunch stop in the pub in Dummer to see England Ladies’ football team win.
Feeling a bit more positive about the whole experience I followed the well sign - posted route until after the village of Preston Candover it required a fairly long walk up a road with no pedestrian verge. Now you might think these are quiet country roads but they do not have speed cameras and the locals use this opportunity to see how fast their car can really go. I was relieved to arrive at the turn into a field and away from the main road. Unfortunately I had really hit a problem now as this particular day the field was being harvested and enormous machinery was going back and forth with dust and debris flying everywhere. It didn’t actually look safe to enter. Reluctantly I rejoined the dangerous road and walked the hard miles to my destination of New Alresford. From there I used buses and trains to get home as accommodation was very expensive.
I will continue the walk as I don’t give up, but honestly my experience of this Camino has been a major disappointment. I feel it has been ‘manufactured’ rather than authentic. Much of it is uncomfortable walking on the edge of ploughed fields, narrow overgrown paths or scary roads. Unless, in some way accommodation could be more convenient and affordable it will not attract people on a budget. I am sure there are those who have gone before who feel differently but I am commenting personally on my experience of the last 3 days. I am looking forward to the next chapter from A Coruna
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