LIVE from the Camino Caminó Primitivo 4/2024

[Thomas1]

Hi all! Started today from Oviedo to Escamplero. Now I know, why so many people say it's a bit of a challenge to come out of Oviedo. I got lost just once, but was rescued by a very friendly guy. A short, but beautiful walk by great weather conditions - a bit cloudy, no rain and some sunshine. The Albergue in Escamplero is nearly empty and the food in the attached restaurant (Tendejon) is really good. More tomorrow.

 

[sun is shining]

Hi all!

Thanks for the post! I might be starting the Camino Primitivo in a couple of weeks so I’m looking forward to following your journey.

Buon Camino!

 

[DennisJ]

Enjoy your trip. I am starting the Primitivo this Saturday 20th.

 

[KariannNor]

Looking forward to your posts.
Buen Camino

 

[sun is shining]

@Thomas1 hope you had a good night in Escamplero. What time does the albergue open (or the restaurant next to it) and do you know if there’s Wifi available?

 

[torlastman]

Thanks for the update. Buen Camino.

 

[Thomas1]

@Thomas1 hope you had a good night in Escamplero. What time does the albergue open (or the restaurant next to it) and do you know if there’s Wifi available?

Thanks, it was a good night. I arrived yesterday at 13:00 and the restaurant (where you have to register and to pay) was already open. The Albergue doesn't have WiFi and I didn't check at the restaurant (but I assume they have it - it's a well developed place).

 

[AK2112]

Hi all! Started today from Oviedo to Escamplero. Now I know, why so many people say it's a bit of a challenge to come out of Oviedo. I got lost just once, but was rescued by a very friendly guy. A short, but beautiful walk by great weather conditions - a bit cloudy, no rain and some sunshine. The Albergue in Escamplero is nearly empty and the food in the attached restaurant (Tendejon) is really good. More tomorrow.

Getting out of Oviedo last April was not easy! I am looking forward to your posts.

Buen Camino!

 

[Thomas1]

2. Day - Escamplero to Grado. A bit chilly in the morning, but at 11:00 the sun comes out and it's a beautiful day from then on. It's a short walk, although the first half makes me sweating. From Paladin on is it 'a walk in the park', along the river. The Albergue Municipal is 'completo' at 16:00.

 

[Grahammac]

Hi. Great news from all of you. Pleeeease keep me posted. I am 76 and planning to start in early June, so any info on problems, accommodation etc will be very welcome one. If easier, use my email....
Email address removed. Please use private messaging to contact other members by clicking on their name and then "start conversation."

I look forward to your success.

Graham

 

[Thomas1]

Hi. Great news from all of you. Pleeeease keep me posted. I am 76 and planning to start in early June, so any info on problems, accommodation etc will be very welcome one. If easier, use my email....
Email address removed. Please use private messaging to contact other members by clicking on their name and then "start conversation."

I look forward to your success.

Graham

Hi Graham! Stay with me and I will try to give you all here information regarding the weather conditions (it's of course just a snapshot), general condition of the Camino and how the bed situation is. I will walk only short distances (where possible) and I will try not to book in advance, unless I really want to stay in a specific Albergue (like tomorrow). Until now it was quite easy, although there was also a lot of sweat involved

 

[moberschmidt]

Hi all! Started today from Oviedo to Escamplero. Now I know, why so many people say it's a bit of a challenge to come out of Oviedo. I got lost just once, but was rescued by a very friendly guy. A short, but beautiful walk by great weather conditions - a bit cloudy, no rain and some sunshine. The Albergue in Escamplero is nearly empty and the food in the attached restaurant (Tendejon) is really good. More tomorrow.

Enjoy and Buen Camino
I got lost also several times 1st day in 2022

 

[Thomas1]

3. Day - Grado to La Doriga. Beautiful weather - sunny, but not too hot. It goes up (around 300 elevation meters) in the first half of the walk and then it goes down for 300m. I walked slowly and it was quite easy. I stay in a very special Albergue (Roca Madre).
Edit: Sorry, it's of course La Rodriga (andnotLa Doriga) - 1km before Cornellana.

 

[Grahammac]

3. Day - Grado to La Doriga. Beautiful weather - sunny, but not too hot. It goes up (around 300 elevation meters) in the first half of the walk and then it goes down for 300m. I walked slowly and it was quite easy. I stay in a very special Albergue (Roca Madre).

Thanks Thomas. 0erfect info for me in June.
Grahammac

 

[Thomas1]

4. Day - La Rodriga to Salas. After a real good night in a real nice Albergue (I can only recommend to stay there - Roca Madre), I started by perfect weather - sunny, but not too hot. The way itself makes me sweat a lot (up and down, up and down), but is doable. Downhills is more challenging and I have to go very concentrated - take care! Again a beautiful Camino-day.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@Thomas1 , this is turning into an excellent thread for those looking to walk shorter distances on the Primitivo. If you can continue to add the names of the places that you sleep each night (and perhaps the distance?) this could be a very valuable resource for them.

I love the Primitivo.

Buen Camino!

 

[DennisJ]

@Thomas1 I am following you closely as I just started today from Oviedo. My intention was Grado but my legs said otherwise and I stopped at Paladin (19.5km) - Vila Palatina with dorm and private rooms. I am staying in a private room as I have jet lag and my sleep pattern is unpredictable. You have given me a few ideas for smaller places to stop down the trail instead of focusing on the main towns.

 

[VNwalking]

I agree with what @peterejust just said!

 

[Thomas1]

@Thomas1 , this is turning into an excellent thread for those looking to walk shorter distances on the Primitivo. If you can continue to add the names of the places that you sleep each night (and perhaps the distance?) this could be a very valuable resource for them.

I love the Primitivo.

Buen Camino!

Will do so!

 

[Grahammac]

3. Day - Grado to La Doriga. Beautiful weather - sunny, but not too hot. It goes up (around 300 elevation meters) in the first half of the walk and then it goes down for 300m. I walked slowly and it was quite easy. I stay in a very special Albergue (Roca Madre).

Thanks Thomas. 0erfect info for me in June.
Grahamma

4. Day - La Rodriga to Salas. After a real good night in a real nice Albergue (I can only recommend to stay there - Roca Madre), I started by perfect weather - sunny, but not too hot. The way itself makes me sweat a lot (up and down, up and down), but is doable. Downhills is more challenging and I have to go very concentrated - take care! Again a beautiful Camino-day.

Hi. It is the Hospitaleros section I am most interested in. I hope it proves OK for you. Graham

 

[Thomas1]

Thanks Thomas. 0erfect info for me in June.
Grahamma

Hi. It is the Hospitaleros section I am most interested in. I hope it proves OK for you. Graham

Hi, I have planned to decide on which route to go, on the day before - mostly depending on weather conditions.

 

[DennisJ]

I am taking your recommendation on Aberque Roca Madre. I walked from Paladin and just arrived at it.....perfect location as my legs were saying rest.

 

[KariannNor]

Great to follow your walk.

Have you just turned up at the sleeping places, or have you booked?
I am particularly interested to hear if there are fences/railing in the top bed where you are, especially Salas, Tineo and Borres. Great if you could tell about that.
And how do you experience the food? Would love some recommandations.

Have a safe and joyful further walk

Don't feel pressured to answer me ;-) totally understand if people want a free-time-from-phone-experience ;-)

 

[Thomas1]

I am taking your recommendation on Aberque Roca Madre. I walked from Paladin and just arrived at it.....perfect location as my legs were saying rest.

Hi, please give Irene & Diego my regards! Thanks

Great to follow your walk.

Have you just turned up at the sleeping places, or have you booked?
I am particularly interested to hear if there are fences/railing in the top bed where you are, especially Salas, Tineo and Borres. Great if you could tell about that.
And how do you experience the food? Would love some recommandations.

Have a safe and joyful further walk

Don't feel pressured by my nagging, totally understand if people want a free-time-from-phone-experience ;-)

Hi, sorry, but I didn't take notice of railings in the upper beds, because I was always sleeping 'downstairs'. Here in La Espina (El Cruce) are railings. I will be having an eye on that from now on. Food wasn't a problem - in Escamplero I went to the restaurant Tedejon (where you have to register for the Albergue Municipal) and had a very nice meal there. In Grado (where I stayed also in the Albergue Municipal) I went shopping for food. I stayed in Roca Madre in La Rodriga and they were cooking for us. In Salas (El Tulipan) I went for a pizza in the neighboring Cafe (the cook in Tulipan is sick). Today I checked in into Albergue El Cruce and went for a (really) big meal in the (I think the only) restaurant in La Espina. There are also enough shops around - at least until now.
I hope that helps!

 

[Thomas1]

Hi, please give Irene & Diego my regards! Thanks

Hi, sorry, but I didn't take notice of railings in the upper beds, because I was always sleeping 'downstairs'. Here in La Espina (El Cruce) are railings. I will be having an eye on that from now on. Food wasn't a problem - in Escamplero I went to the restaurant Tedejon (where you have to register for the Albergue Municipal) and had a very nice meal there. In Grado (where I stayed also in the Albergue Municipal) I went shopping for food. I stayed in Roca Madre in La Rodriga and they were cooking for us. In Salas (El Tulipan) I went for a pizza in the neighboring Cafe (the cook in Tulipan is sick). Today I checked in into Albergue El Cruce and went for a (really) big meal in the (I think the only) restaurant in La Espina. There are also enough shops around - at least until now.
I hope that helps!

Sorry, I forgot to mention that I never reserved a bed in advance.

 

[KariannNor]

Hi, please give Irene & Diego my regards! Thanks

Hi, sorry, but I didn't take notice of railings in the upper beds, because I was always sleeping 'downstairs'. Here in La Espina (El Cruce) are railings. I will be having an eye on that from now on. Food wasn't a problem - in Escamplero I went to the restaurant Tedejon (where you have to register for the Albergue Municipal) and had a very nice meal there. In Grado (where I stayed also in the Albergue Municipal) I went shopping for food. I stayed in Roca Madre in La Rodriga and they were cooking for us. In Salas (El Tulipan) I went for a pizza in the neighboring Cafe (the cook in Tulipan is sick). Today I checked in into Albergue El Cruce and went for a (really) big meal in the (I think the only) restaurant in La Espina. There are also enough shops around - at least until now.
I hope that helps!

Thanks for the useful information. Then at least I know one place without life-threatening beds ;-) Then it seems as if there is good capacity there now then, when you have been successful in showing up.
Glad you're eating well, you need a lot of energy these days.
Have there been drinking fountains during the stages you've had? (ha ha, even more questioning from here).

 

[Thomas1]

Thanks for the useful information. Then at least I know one place without life-threatening beds ;-) Then it seems as if there is good capacity there now then, when you have been successful in showing up.
Glad you're eating well, you need a lot of energy these days.
Have there been drinking fountains during the stages you've had? (ha ha, even more questioning from here).

Yes, there are fountains. I always carry some water (1l) with me and I never had any water issues.

 

[Thomas1]

5. Day - Salas to La Espina, 8,2km, Albergue El Cruce.
Beautiful walk with a short detour to a nice waterfall - Cascada de Nonaya. It goes up, partly a bit steep, but going slow and a short rest here and there helps. In the end I am not exhausted at all. The Albergue has a shop next to it and there's also a restaurant not very far away. Again a beautiful day on a sunny day.

 

[DennisJ]

I enjoyed my night at Roca Madre, wonderful hosts, made dinner and breakfast for the pilgrims. Great recommendation.

 

[KariannNor]

I assume you have heard of the legendary Bodenaya albergue? Others tell of a high point of the albergue experiences.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I assume you have heard of the legendary Bodenaya albergue? Others tell of a high point of the albergue experiences.

I concur. I was fortunate enough to stay with Allison and Alberto last year, in their first week of ownership. They love the camino (I think they might have actually met on Camino) - they truly get it. Absolutely legendary hosts.

 

[Simperegrina]

Dave Whitson has just started a series on the Primitivo on his Camino podcast, and he interviews Allison Bixby-Bemus in the 1st episode of the series

 

[Thomas1]

I assume you have heard of the legendary Bodenaya albergue? Others tell of a high point of the albergue experiences.

Yes, I passed by, but it didn't fit in my plan. A pity actually, because I think it's worth to stay there.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Yes, I passed by, but it didn't fit in my plan. A pity actually, because I think it's worth to stay there.

Of course, I responded to @KariannNor without thinking, you've already passed by.

 

[KariannNor]

Of course you never know about the weather, but what are the temperatures like now? (what is published is often not the truth). Lots of wind in high areas? I'm starting in a week and not sure how much warm/thick and windproof I need to bring..

 

[Thomas1]

Of course you never know about the weather, but what are the temperatures like now? (what is published is often not the truth). Lots of wind in high areas? I'm starting in a week and not sure how much warm/thick and windproof I need to bring..

I was wearing a windstopper jacket (not thick and very, very light) because of the wind. Until today, the temperature was high enough to feel comfortable with thisjacket. Today morning was only 1 degree (Celsius) and I had to change to the more serious jacket. It started to rain now in Tineo (not a lot) and the forecast is pretty bad.

 

[KariannNor]

I was wearing a windstopper jacket (not thick and very, very light) because of the wind. Until today, the temperature was high enough to feel comfortable with thisjacket. Today morning was only 1 degree (Celsius) and I had to change to the more serious jacket. It started to rain now in Tineo (not a lot) and the forecast is pretty bad.

Ok, thanks for your reply, very helpful.

Yes I have seen it.. wish you the best.
My trick in rain is, even if wet, to stop somewhere sheltered and change into dry socks anyway, and I always bring a newspaper. Crumpled newspaper works wonders for drying shoes.

 

[KariannNor]

And you're not in danger of falling out of bed?

 

[Thomas1]

6. Day - La Espina to Tineo, 12km, Albergue Municipal Mater Christi
A bit chilly in the morning (only 1 degree Celsius). It's sunny but I have to wear a jacket. Beautiful way, nearly exclusively through the nature. Enough fountains on the road. The Albergue is half empty (railings on the upper beds only on one side). The weather turns in the afternoon to rain - not a lot and not too long.

 

[Thomas1]

And you're not in danger of falling out of bed?

Not a good Albergue for you - railings just on one side.

 

[KariannNor]

Not a good Albergue for you - railings just on one side.

Thanks, not going there! Fortunately alternatives in Tineo. My biggest fear is Borres, the only two options there have scary beds. So, if I can't reserve the lowest bed there, I have to stop somewhere else. But thanks for the report.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@KariannNor, as you probably know the Primitivo can be very tricky weather wise. Even in July I had a couple of days with very cool (4-6c) misty starts, and on the Hospitales it ranged between t shirt to three layers - the mist rolled in very, very quickly indeed, and the wind chill factor was high. Not surprising, you are walking right across the crest of a mountain.

I was told it's not unusual to get snow until the end of May.

Frankly, rain is looking more likely at present, I'll keep my fingers crossed for
you and Thomas.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Incidentally K, you might want to consider stopping with Silvia (Casa Pascual) in El Espin. One bedroom, I think a maximum now of 10 people (it was just six when I was there, no bunks) - she added two bunk beds the week after I stayed. She's contactable (bookable!) on WhatsApp, speaks very good English and is a really nice lady. I'm sure she would hold a bed for you, if you ask nicely you might even get the double bed ! Donativo, meals provided, facilities were all new last year. 2 excellent bathrooms. Stop at the shop at El Espin to stock up for the Hospitales before you go to Sylvia's (I think 1 km more). She's also a peregrina.

 

[KariannNor]

@KariannNor, as you probably know the Primitivo can be very tricky weather wise. Even in July I had a couple of days with very cool (4-6c) misty starts, and on the Hospitales it ranged between t shirt to three layers - the mist rolled in very, very quickly indeed, and the wind chill factor was high. Not surprising, you are walking right across the crest of a mountain.

I was told it's not unusual to get snow until the end of May.

Frankly, rain is looking more likely at present, I'll keep my fingers crossed for
you and Thomas.

Ok, thanks. I'll pack for a traditional Norwegian summer then ;-)

 

[KariannNor]

Incidentally K, you might want to consider stopping with Silvia (Casa Pascual) in El Espin. One bedroom, I think a maximum now of 10 people (it was just six when I was there, no bunks) - she added two bunk beds the week after I stayed. She's contactable (bookable!) on WhatsApp, speaks very good English and is a really nice lady. I'm sure she would hold a bed for you, if you ask nicely you might even get the double bed ! Donativo, meals provided, facilities were all new last year. 2 excellent bathrooms. Stop at the shop at El Espin to stock up for the Hospitales before you go to Sylvia's (I think 1 km more). She's also a peregrina.

Wow, this is a great tip! Thank you, it might be something I do

 

[David Tallan]

Yes, there are fountains. I always carry some water (1l) with me and I never had any water issues.

If you do take the Hospitales route, that may be a place to take more water. There is 15-20km between fountains.

 

[David Tallan]

Yes, I passed by, but it didn't fit in my plan. A pity actually, because I think it's worth to stay there.

I passed it by, too. Next time for sure. Salvador/Primitivo is certainly a Camino I will repeat.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

If you do take the Hospitales route, that may be a place to take more water. There is 15-20km between fountains.

Good point. My notes show that we found nothing for 24, 5 kilometres - ie, Berducedo. There was supposed to be a tap at the church (Lago?), but it was cut off.

Obviously individual needs vary considerably, I carried three liters (inc a half liter of Aquarius), a couple of companions carried just two and ran out, so be aware. It was warm, but not hot ( mist). We all drink at least a liter of assorted liquids (if not more) upon arrival at the bar in Berducedo. Fresh OJ!!

 

[DennisJ]

Yes, weather is changeable. I walked from Roca Madre to Salas yesterday. I was ok walking with a long sleeve top and puffy jacket, but once I stopped in Salas at a bar for food and sitting outside I could feel the cold wind, and put on a second top.

 

[Thomas1]

7. Day - Tineo to Campiello, 12,3km, Casa Ricardo (no railings).
Cold and foggy, luckily no rain. Sun comes out around noon, but still cold in the shade and when windy. Besides that a lovely walk through beautiful nature. The last part I am walking on the road, which is not so nice, but manageable. Casa Ricardo is a very nice Albergue with shop and bar/restaurant. Based on the bad weather forecast, I decided against the Hospitales route.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

A shame, but smart move!

 

[Thomas1]

A shame, but smart move!

There is always another time

 

[KariannNor]

But, are the places where you spend the night full? If you were to take a rough estimate, what % of the beds are occupied? I hope and pray that I can avoid these life-threatening beds.. I heard that peak season they say before July/August there?

 

[DennisJ]

@Thomas1 I am in Albergue Herminia, across the street from you. I was energetic today and walked 32.5 km from Salas....a lovely walk, especially from Tineo over the mountain to Campiello...great views. It was chilly...ok when moving but I felt the cold when I stopped. Yes, the final approx 4km along the road is a little nervy....I stayed attentive to on coming traffic.

 

[KariannNor]

@Thomas1 I am in Albergue Herminia, across the street from you. I was energetic today and walked 32.5 km from Salas....a lovely walk, especially from Tineo over the mountain to Campiello...great views. It was chilly...ok when moving but I felt the cold when I stopped. Yes, the final approx 4km along the road is a little nervy....I stayed attentive to on coming traffic.

And then the obligatory question comes from here..
This picture tells me nada of railings there..

 

[KariannNor]

@Thomas1 I am in Albergue Herminia, across the street from you. I was energetic today and walked 32.5 km from Salas....a lovely walk, especially from Tineo over the mountain to Campiello...great views. It was chilly...ok when moving but I felt the cold when I stopped. Yes, the final approx 4km along the road is a little nervy....I stayed attentive to on coming traffic.

Wow, that's well done with the height meters

 

[Thomas1]

But, are the places where you spend the night full? If you were to take a rough estimate, what % of the beds are occupied? I hope and pray that I can avoid these life-threatening beds.. I heard that peak season they say before July/August there?

Until now there was enough space in the Albergues. Sometimes not even 50% full (except in Grado). The good thing of walking short distances is that you are early at your todays goal - and first come, first sleeps. I didn't sleep once in an upper bed.

 

[Thomas1]

8. Day - Campiello to Pola de Allande, 16km, Donativo Polagrino (no railings).
Cold, windy and rainy. Not a lot of rain, but enough to wear my poncho. The wind is sometimes really chilly. The way itself is sometimes really beautiful, but also some road. As usual, it goes up and down. Good dinner in the Albergue and only 8 pilgrims.

 

[DennisJ]

@James1 I walked from Campiello to Berducedo via Hospitales. Views on the way up then into cloud for 2 hours. I found the descent challenging due to rocky and steep trails. Stayed in Albergue Marquez, clean and quiet.

Yesterday walking from Berducedo, I stopped early at hotel Las Grandas as i was feeling sick (upset stomach) and fatigued. Feeling same today so I got a taxi to O Cadavo where I will rest.

It was  snowing for most of the drive to O Cadavo. So check the weather as you continue on your journey.

 

[KariannNor]

@James1 I walked from Campiello to Berducedo via Hospitales. Views on the way up then into cloud for 2 hours. I found the descent challenging due to rocky and steep trails. Stayed in Albergue Marquez, clean and quiet.

Yesterday walking from Berducedo, I stopped early at hotel Las Grandas as i was feeling sick (upset stomach) and fatigued. Feeling same today so I got a taxi to O Cadavo where I will rest.

It was  snowing for most of the drive to O Cadavo. So check the weather as you continue on your journey.

Hope you feel better soon. Take good care of yourself now. Best wishes.

 

[Thomas1]

9. Day - Pola de Allande to Berducedo, 20km, Casa Marques (mini railings)
The way up to Puerto de Palo is physically challenging, as is the rest of way to Berducedo - but it is doable. Enough breaks and slow walking brings me up and also down. It's raining - not a lot, but enough to enjoy my Altus Poncho. The most probably beautiful nature is, most of the time, hidden behind fog. I enjoyed anyway the 6 hours walk.

 

[Thomas1]

10. Day - Berducedo to Grandas de Salime, 20km, Grandas de Salime Hostel (not what I would call railings)
Rain, snow and really wet shoes. Short after La Mesa (good breakfast break in Miguelin) the rain turns into snow for the next 2 hours. The way down to the lake makes my knees 'ringing'. Slow and carefully is the way to do it. Grandas seems to be 'completo' today - even the Albergue Municipal is full at 16:00. I start feeling the last 2 days, but am still glad to be here.

 

[Thomas1]

11. Day - Grandas de Salime to Castro, 5km, Castro Youth Hostel (railings)
A very short walk, partly muddy, partly very muddy (no wonder after yesterday's weather). Early check-in into the Albergue, washing and drying everything (finally clean and dry, except shoes). Good day in a good Albergue with good community dinner (very friendly and helpful staff). After this day of rest, I'm ready for more. It's still an amazing Camino.

 

[Grahammac]

@KariannNor, as you probably know the Primitivo can be very tricky weather wise. Even in July I had a couple of days with very cool (4-6c) misty starts, and on the Hospitales it ranged between t shirt to three layers - the mist rolled in very, very quickly indeed, and the wind chill factor was high. Not surprising, you are walking right across the crest of a mountain.

I was told it's not unusual to get snow until the end of May.

Frankly, rain is looking more likely at present, I'll keep my fingers crossed for
you and Thomas.

M

 

[Grahammac]

Thomas1. Hi. How did you find the day climbing over the Hospitaleros?

 

[Thomas1]

Thomas1. Hi. How did you find the day climbing over the Hospitaleros?

Hi Graham, I took the road via Pola de Allande. I thought the weather was not good enough for Hospitales, so I spent the night in Pola. The next time, I will walk the Hospitales. What I have heard from other Pilgrims, it was also quite foggy, as on my way. It is just longer, but not more challenging and maybe not as steep as from Pola up.

 

[Grahammac]

Hi Graham, I took the road via Pola de Allande. I thought the weather was not good enough for Hospitales, so I spent the night in Pola. The next time, I will walk the Hospitales. What I have heard from other Pilgrims, it was also quite foggy, as on my way. It is just longer, but not more challenging and maybe not as steep as from Pola up.

Thanks. Enjoy the rest of the walk. It can be life-changing.

 

[Thomas1]

12. Day - Castro to A Fonsagrada, 20km, Cantabrico Hostel (railings)
Starting very muddy and foggy. After about 2km I'm above the clouds and I'm walking in sunshine. Very nice way and not just because of the beautiful weather. The climb up to A Fonsagrada is a nice surprise, very steep but not very long. The Albergue is nearly empty (yesterday's Albergue was completo).

 

[Thomas1]

13. Day - A Fonsagrada to O Cadavo, 25km, Albergue Porta Santa (railings)
Starting in fog, but soon the weather is worse - rain, rain and more rain - partly accompanied by cold wind - until I come to the Albergue. Todays highlight is the stopover in Casa Meson. Otherwise is the countryside hidden.

 

[Thomas1]

14. Day - O Cadavo to Vilar de Cas, 15km, Albergue A Pocina de Muniz (railings) - the best Albergue I stayed in yet!
Start with a bit of fog and a bit of rain. The weather changes fast to nice and cloudy hiking weather. In the beginning a bit of uphills, but the rest is easy. Nice walk. Rain in the afternoon (but I'm already in the Albergue). A good day in dry shoes (which was not the case in the last few days).

 

[Thomas1]

15. Day - Vilar de Cas to Lugo, 15km
This time I don't sleep in an Albergue, because I will stay in Lugo for 2 nights. What a luxury to have a whole apartment for myself.
Walking was quite easy - just in the beginning a bit up, but the rest was 'a walk in the park'. Of course was it raining, but not so much (a bit of an on/off), so my shoes stayed dry. I am really happy to have bought this Altus Poncho in Ivars shop - I am using it now every day. Today no sightseeing, because all of my clothes are not dry yet (I can't believe having my own washing machine).

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I did exactly the same when I got to Lugo, took an apartment for two nights. Just inside the walls - oh the luxury!

 

[Thomas1]

16. Day.- Lugo
A relaxing day - walking through the city and once a circle on the old city wall - beautiful. The weather is like it was the last days - a bit of sun, a bit of wind and now rain in the afternoon. I never left my apartment without Poncho. Looking forward to start walking again.

 

[Thomas1]

17. Day - Lugo to San Romao, 19km, Albergue O Candido (railings)
I have never been so wet before. Rain, more rain and pouring rain all the way. Because of the weather, I can't really see the beautiful landscape (what a pity). Walking itself is quite easy - lots of asphalt and moderate up/down. Interesting Albergue - a mixture of Albergue, Ristorante and Shop and a very friendly feeling.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

That’s rough, good that you’ve landed in a great Albergue

 

[chinacat]

17. Day - Lugo to San Romao, 19km, Albergue O Candido (railings)

@Thomas1
I think it’s so kind the way you mention ‘railings’ for @KariannNor at the beginning of every post
May the weather clear and the sun shine for you for the remainder of your Way!
Buen Camino!

 

[Thomas1]

18. Day - San Romao to As Seixas, 14km, Albergue Municipal (railings)
Much less rain and easier to walk. I can finally see more of the beautiful landscape. It's a short walk, so I have to wait until the Albergue opens - I do that in a very close by Cafe/Ristorante (they have also menus).

 

[KariannNor]

P

@Thomas1
I think it’s so kind the way you mention ‘railings’ for @KariannNor at the beginning of every post
May the weather clear and the sun shine for you for the remainder of your Way!
Buen Camino!

So good you say that, I so much appreciate it

 

[Thomas1]

19. Day - As Seixas to Melide, 14km, Albergue San Anton (railings)
Finally no more rain and I can admire the landscape of Galicia. It's a bit of a jacket on/jacket off temperature - it's not really warm yet. Beautiful and easy walk - I don't feel the ups and downs anymore and can really enjoy walking through the countryside. I don't have the feeling (what I can see on the street) that the Camino Frances impacts Melide dramatically.

 

[Thomas1]

20. Day - Melide to Ribadiso, 12km, Albergue Municipal (railings)
Beautiful weather with sunshine and pleasant temperatures. A short and very easy walk in a pleasant landscape. Time flies by in good company. It's so much better to walk in sunshine, in dry clothes and shoes. The Albergue in Ribadiso is very special and still (17:00) quite empty. Although I can see that I am now walking on the Camino Frances. Compared to the sometimes solitude of the Camino Primitivo is it crowded here. I don't want to know how the situation is in July/August. All in all a very beautiful day.

 

[Thomas1]

21. Day - Ribadiso to A Salceda, 14km, Albergue La Corona 1 (railings)
Beautiful weather and a beautiful walk - very easy. Today I can see the impact of the Camino Frances - while having breakfast, I see many, many pilgrims passing by. There is a whiff of Eau de Cologne and Hairspray in the air. I will be in Santiago tomorrow, so this is my last post. Thanks for listening and I hope it was also a bit helpful. Adios y buen Camino, Thomas

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

@Thomas1 , thank you so much for taking time to post. The information you have provided will undoubtedly make somebody else's pilgrimage easier - especially someone that wishes to walk shorter stages on the Primitivo.
Or, for that matter, has safety concerns with regards to the bunk beds. It was kind of you to take Kari's concern onboard.

Certainly when somebody raises the query in the future about slowing down the Primitivo yours will be the first thread that I will think of to refer them to.

 

[chinacat]

Go well, Thomas, and thank you for your helpful thread.
Happy homecoming!

 

[sun is shining]

@Thomas1 thank you so much for your posts - they will surely come in handy when I start the Camino Primitivo in a couple of days. Wishing you a fantastic arrival in Santiago tomorrow!

 

[paolademberger]

Enjoy your trip. I am starting the Primitivo this Saturday 20th.

And how was it?
Could you tell me more about your experience?
I am planning to do it next year in April too

 

[Grahammac]

Big thanks, Thomas.

 

[Thomas1]

Big thanks, Thomas.

I hope my comments were at least a bit of help. Thanks for your thanks