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  1. Umwandert

    LIVE from the Camino Counting pilgrims on the Norte AGAIN

    Last May I walked the first part of the Norte in the opposite direction, from Santander to Irun. Since I only had two weeks and couldn't reach Santiago anyway, I wanted to swim against the tide, especially since the most beautiful stages were between Bilbao and Irun, which I enjoyed a lot at the...
  2. Umwandert

    Ruta and Camino de Fray Leopoldo – December 2023

    I walked this brand new camino in December 2023. I discovered this trail, when @islandwalker reported about it here in August last year. As I had walked the Via Serrana in December 2022 and wanted to hike another Andalusian trail it immediately attracted my interest. I researched accommodation...
  3. Umwandert

    Camino del Estrecho (in reverse) - December '23

    Hello everyone, I have just returned from a three-week hike on Andalusian caminos. I spent a week at the end of November/beginning of December walking the Camino del Estrecho - in reverse. My stages were as follows: 1: Puerto Real - Medina-Sidonia (31,5 km), pictured above 2: Medina-Sidonia -...
  4. Umwandert

    Camino Estrecho Reverse – where should I start?

    Last year I asked: “Winter Camino in Andalusia, but which one?” and received many helpful answers from the forum. I decided to walk the Via Serrana in December, and although many things went wrong (unnecessary detours, rainstorms, mean dogs, etc.), I enjoyed a challenging, remote trail...
  5. Umwandert

    Counting pilgrims on the Norte

    Hello everyone, I am currently walking in the opposite direction on the Norte. I started from Santander 5 days ago and am hoping to reach Irun sometime next week. Since I found it funny to count the pilgrims I met on the Fisterra-Muxia-Santiago hike last June, I'll do it again now. Here are my...
  6. Umwandert

    Norte: Municipal albergues open for reverse pilgrims?

    Dear forum users, I have 2 weeks time in May and plan to hike part of the Norte. As I did Aviles-Santiago last year, I would like to go further to complete this camino. I read that the first week (Irun-Bilbao) is the most breathtaking part, followed later by the "Cantabrian tarmac hell" and the...
  7. Umwandert

    LIVE from the Camino Umwandert finds challenges on the Via Serrana - December 2022

    Via Serrana in December 2022 Hello everyone, I am safely back from the Via Serrana and to sum up everything I experienced in one word: It was challenging. Not so much because of the terrain, but because of the really bad weather and limited daylight hours in winter. And because of some mean...
  8. Umwandert

    Winter Camino in Andalusia – but which one? (Answer: Via Serrana)

    I just started planning for a short spontaneous Camino (my third). This time for two weeks in December in Andalusia, because of the weather and because I want to refresh my memories of this picturesque region where I traveled a lot two decades ago. I think there are 4 possible choices: Camino...
  9. Umwandert

    Memorable Moments on the Norte and beyond (including mishaps)

    In May/June 2022 I walked the latter 40% of the Norte and the extension to Muxia and Fisterra after having survived the Salvador as some kind of exhausting but wonderful warm-up. This was my second camino. As I love reading entertaining blogs and daily pilgrim diaries on this forum and...
  10. Umwandert

    Personal report: my most challenging day on the Salvador

    I could have been warned. But I felt prepared. I had trained by frequently running in my city and hiking a whole week around Berlin on the Mauerweg (160 km). I had lost weight and felt quite fit for 53. Much fitter than on my first camino (Ingles + Muxia/Fisterra) two years before. I had read...

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