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The Santander museum was excellent and has many of the original portable paleolithic art from the caves too. Good multi-media presentations of caves also. I just went without reservation, and it's free certain days, so check first. there's also an exhibit on the Candamo de la pena caves, which I...
I used the guide published by Cicerone, Laura Perazzoli and Dave Whitson "The Northern Caminos, Norte, Primitivo and Ingles" It worked great. I also saw the one from the tourism office you mentioned, which was good too and free! Good luck and Buen camino!
I walked the Norte and Primitivo solo last summer, and nothing but fantastic experiences! I was also concerned at first, as I had no phone and wasnt' sure how remote it was. I had no problems. I did also hook up with pilgrims en route who I walked with. I would recommend checking each stage...
YES, it is worth it, even though it's a replica. It is one of the most important and oldest cave art sites in the world. However, I would highly suggest checking out several other actual cave art sites, on or near the Camino del Norte. Puente Viesgo has several caves, just 25 minute bus ride...
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