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[QUOTE="Undermanager, post: 517226, member: 46206"] Day 25 - Berducedo - Grandes de Salime - Castro - 27kms I was awake at 5.30am after a solid 8 hours sleep so got up, packed, had breakfast and was out the door by 6.00am. Today was very gloomy and rained a light drizzle almost non-stop until around 1.00pm, and sometimes the rain came down harder. Often, visibility was down to 10 meters and having a gps with a route on was reassuring. There was little chance of taking a wrong turn, but if it was going to happen, today was as likely as any. The walk to A Mesa, about 4kms away, took about an hour. The last building on the left as you left A Mesa was the municipal albergue, which looked a bit grim in the weather but I never looked inside, so it might be fine. There were no facilities of any kind in the village, though, so if you are staying here, you'd need to bring supplies. From A Mesa, you have a half hour uphill march, and then a walk down to Buspol. Then it's through a large forest all the way until you are standing on the dam of Rio Navia. The route down is long and can be steep and slippy and I didn't get to the dam until 9.15am. Walking poles really helped. If you have never tried them, buy a cheap pair, read up or watch a YouTube video on how to use them and why they help and then go and walk down the steepest, muddiest hill you can find, and up as well. Then you'll see how they help, then buy a decent pair. I'm using these, which I can recommend: [URL]https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01826FAXU/?tag=casaivar-21[/URL] The views were great at times, when the mist cleared for five minutes. Most of the time, however, you couldn't see anything. It was also one of those days when you found out just how good or bad your wet weather gear was! My jacket is definitely on its last outing although my over-trousers are still doing their job well. A tried and tested top quality rucksack cover is also a must. From the dam, it's about 6kms to Grandas de Salime, all uphill and mostly along a road. 15 minutes from the dam was a hotel where you could get a coffee and an over-priced can of drink. There was no food in the hotel for breakfast today but others I spoke to later reported expensive snacks. I didn't see any other places to get a drink, no shops and no water fountains. I just put my headphones on, got my head down and marched all the way to Grandas de Salime, stopping to admire the magnificent views when possible. The Camino goes off the road at times, but you can also decide to stay on the road as I did, if the weather is grim. I arrived a Grandes de Salime at about 11.15am. Grandas de Salime is a small standard non-descript town with some shops, banks, bars and an albergue that might prove to be a bottleneck if there are a lot of people staying in Berducedo. You can walk through the town in 10 minutes. I picked up some milk for later and carried on walking to Castro. It's uphill again for about 2kms, then it levels out or is downhill to the albergue in Castro (except for the last few hundred yards). The walk is either road or dirt track, but I was in road-hike mode so just stuck to the road all the way, stopping off at a roadside pub half way to Castro. There was a gang of motorbike riders there, on a tour from the UK to Portugal, so had a chat. The albergue in Castro is fabulous. It's in the countryside, in a tiny village. It has a great restaurant and bar attached and a shop selling very limited supplies like noodles. Natalie, one of the hosts speaks great English, although other hosts speak no English. There is no wifi. It's popular but has only 16 beds with two power sockets each, has great views and is in the middle of nowhere - if it is full, you have some decisions to make as the next albergue is a very long haul away. You may find yourself getting a taxi back to Grandes de Salime or booking into the more expensive hotel that's also in the village. You can reserve a bed so phone up and reserve one in advance before setting out for here if you want to stay and don't want lots of hassle if it's full. It really is worth making the effort to stay here as it's a really pretty, well-run albergue in a great setting. As I arrived, the bread van arrived, but they had ran out of bread. However, the nice driver chap found half a loaf in the van to give to me. A very kind gesture. There are no other facilities. Today was another fabulous day. The rain and mist made it fun and memorable, kept the temperature down and the views were once again pretty spectacular. There are some long, hard uphill and downhill stretches but helped by using walking sticks and you need to get organised in advance if you want to stay in Castro, but it's worth it. Now to figure out what to do about the next two stages, which don't appear too convenient, and to decide what to do when I get to Lugo ..... [/QUOTE]
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