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🇪🇸 Routes in Spain
🇪🇸 Ruta de la LANA (Valencia/Alicante - Burgos)
And we're off. Camino de la Lana. May 2019.
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[QUOTE="Undermanager, post: 749985, member: 46206"] Stage 23. Santo Domingo de Silos to Covarrubias. 17kms Last night's sounds were excellent and was finished off with egg and chips and red wine in one of the bars in the main plaza. Santo Domingo is a very pretty place indeed. There must be a dozen bars and plenty of hotels, but I wonder if all the hotels are expensive? They all looked upmarket. I only found one small shop in my wanderings but there may be more, perhaps further back in the sidestreets. The albergue is a classy place but can take a maximum of four people only. It was quite a late start at 7.45am, perhaps due to the old chap constantly talking to / at the young Spanish bloke. Last night, he accosted a man in the plaza with the young Spanish bloke, convinced he was me and trying to give him the only albergue key. I was sitting outside watching from afar obviously not quite sure what was happening and a bit bemused, until I was told what had happened later by the Spanish guy. I felt a bit sorry for the old chap, but also for myself, staying in such a small albergue with him 😐. I was relieved to be on my way this morning! The sky was blue when I set off and it was already warm so I guess a hot one was heading our way, and so it proved. Santo Domingo is on a valley floor so there are lots of uphills and downhills, mainly uphills, at the start of the day for the first two hours. Then it flattens out, all through light forest or scrubland. As you see for the first time Retuerta 13 kms from Santo Domingo from the top of the valley, you can see an El Cid sign trying to take you sharp left away from the village. Just carry on towards the village, past the red and white cross and you'll pick up the El Cid markers again within 100m. A bit odd. Continue down to the village, where there is a sign saying 'Bar Bilbo' I think over one building in the centre but it was shut - maybe a Summer bar only? There were lots of chairs and tables stored next door. The welcome drinking water fountain is on your right, towards the exit to the village. Dunk your canvas hat well and have a really good drink here for the next bit! There were no other facilities, although I did see a one star Casa Rural, if you wanted somewhere super quiet to stay. It's about 4kms on to Covarrubias, a 1.5 km slog uphill then a slow descent into this incredibly gorgious medieval village / small town. Set by a pretty river and bridge, there are endless fabulous old buildings here, plenty of bars, restaurants and hotels, some shops and bakeries and lots of tourists milling about, taking it all in. In one plaza and opposite the palace of Fernan Gonzalez is Casa Galin, a large pension and busy restaurant, where I'm staying. I have a wonderful rustic ensuite room (room no 1) for €25. It's big, bright and overlooking a busy plaza from the corner. The owner speaks fluent English, but I'm really getting to love Google Translate's conversation feature when Spanish is needed. If you haven't tried it yet, download the app and have a play with the 'conversation' feature before you come to Spain - it works amazingly well when chatting to someone in Spanish and has enabled me to fairly easily get a room, order what I want for food and have a general chat. I've already mentioned how good the camera feature is, to decipher info boards and menus, for example, but this is another equally powerful tool for the foreign language-challenged. I decided to stay in the village when I crossed the bridge and saw the place as I have plenty of time, but only if I could find somewhere in my normal (cheapskate) price bracket. I did, so now I have all afternoon and evening to relax, catch up on washing and emails, let the feet have a longer than normal rest and generally contemplate my naval. After a general wander, and a walk along the beautiful river, I can feel some black and white photos coming on again tonight, and because I like it so much, I booked in for Saturday, too, for a general rest and explore day. Reading about the Lana and El Cid routes, there isn't nearly enough emphasis placed on this place as a stage stop. It may not have the albergue that's six kilometers up the trail at Mecerreyes, but this is about as outstanding an example of a medieval village you're likely to find anywhere in Spain, and you have all the facilities you need to boot. There is also a series of short walks you can do and a fabulous river, and it has the first Tourist Office that was actually open and functional I've seen in Spain this trip, with real, useful info, a map, details about activities like horse-riding etc. Look out for festivals and wine tasting events! Frankly, it would be madness to come all this way to walk the Lana for over three weeks, and then skip on through one of the most beautiful and historic places the country has to offer! The last stage is obviously longer now at 40kms, unless a way round this can be found? We shall see what this evening brings, but I think I can hear a band warming up in one of the plazas ..... [/QUOTE]
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