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🇪🇸 Ruta de la LANA (Valencia/Alicante - Burgos)
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[QUOTE="Bad Pilgrim, post: 761757, member: 50859"] Atienza - Tarancueña, Day 21 I forgot to tell you that I stayed in the hostal Santo Cristo in Atienza yesterday. It's on your right side just after having entered Atienza. Watch out, because there is no visible sign saying Santo Cristo? Just "Bar Restaurante Atienza" for the adjacent bar in the same building. It took me a while to understand I had arrived at the right place. 20 euros and the owner will also wash your clothes! Which made him my new best friend. The Spanish pilgrim Juan also ended up here. But we really don't run into each other very much, not on the Camino nor in the pueblos. So I left Atienza this morning to go to Tarancueña, about 30 kms. The hope was that I would have three bar stops today, just like I had last time. But I started so much earlier this time... Nothing was open in Romanillos de Atienza (10 kms) or in Miedes de Atienza (16 kms). In Romanillos, there is a bar on your left as you enter the village. Although it looks like it only opens during summer? In Miedes there is a bar in the Ayuntamiento, but I arrived before 10 o'clock and there was no activity. Although if summer pilgrims start late from Atienza, I know there is a good chance of finding both bars open. So after Miedes de Atienza I had to walk up the steep, rocky trail that leads to Alto de la Carrascosa (1380 m altitude) on an empty stomach, which I had not planned. Once again I was huffing and puffing, probably scaring away all of God's living creatures in the wilderness. Well I guess it's not really the wilderness, since the road runs nearby all the time. The rocky trail is a shortcut that saves a few kms compared with the carretera. Luckily, this March of Death only goes on for 2 kms, and it sure is beautiful. Most of today's pictures are from that stretch. It is difficult to get the depth in the photos and see how steep it is though. I was afraid it would take a toll on my foot that feels sore from time to time, but I think I ended up ok. The thing is that I wanted to reach Tarancueña. That's why I rose early. I know most pilgrims would want to stay in Retortillo de Soria (22 kms), where there is a modern albergue and a hostal (Hostal Muralla). I went on shaky legs to the restaurante Muralla for my first, desperate coffee-break of the day, and to see if Aurora would recognize me: of course she did. I stayed several days in her hostal (there wasn't an albergue then) when I got problems with my foot two years ago. I then went to Madrid to rest for a week, and after that I traveled back to Retortillo to continue the camino. Aurora told me there had been fewer walking pilgrims this year, but more cyclists. The Camino del Cid, which also runs through the area, is much more popular than the Lana. According to her few people had stayed in the albergue since its construction. This surprised me, as I have seen it featured regularly in other pilgrims' reports this year. She was proud to hear that her albergue had gotten such positive reviews from pilgrims and that even the written guides rave about it. Just like with Pepe and Antonio in Villaconejos, I tried to get her to recall previous pilgrims from 2019, but it didn't ring a bell with her. Not even Sarah Dhooma and her avid vlogging, where I had seen Aurora in a clip. I guess everybody can't have a good memory! I carried on to the very small village of Tarancueña (30 kms). The casa rural Los Arenes de Tarancueña (last picture below) is 40 euros, breakfast included. The nicest woman ever is in charge and it is a 5 star place, period. In the village, there is nothing though. I remember that I caught the bar in the Ayuntamiento being open when I was here last time, but no luck today. No tienda, nada. There are only 7 people living here, although a lot more during the summer vacations. Beautiful surroundings! The owner of the casa rural will cook for you in the evening if you want (not included). She is a good cook! Tomorrow is a long stage to San Esteban de Gormaz. 37-39 kms, depending on what guide you use. Once again, the place where I am staying today is too small to provide me with a phone connection. I haven't been able to call the Hostal Moreno in San Esteban: a very nice place. I am worried because it's Saturday tomorrow and perhaps the rooms will be occupied by people going on vacation! BP [/QUOTE]
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