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🇪🇸 Routes in Spain
🇪🇸 Ruta de la LANA (Valencia/Alicante - Burgos)
BP starts from Alicante, version 3.0 (2019)!
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[QUOTE="Bad Pilgrim, post: 762002, member: 50859"] Tarancueña - San Esteban de Gormaz, Day 22 Yesterday, that casa rural really gave me new energy. A proper siesta, a proper meal, a proper good night's sleep and a proper breakfast (which finally ended up in a pilgrim deal of 50 euros all together) was what I needed to take on today's monster stage of 39 kms. The house is at the end of Tarancueña, fronted by the vast pastures and the hills in the horizon. Dead quiet. The only sound in the evening was the bells of sheep that trotted by outside the kitchen window. According to the owner, the shepherd takes them to the nearby creek in the evening to let them cool down. I know it sounds like a Disney movie, but that place was good. And I know that virtually 100% of pilgrims will stay in Retortillo de Soria, so this info may not be important. On the other hand, it has come to my knowledge that even pilgrims who prefer albergues sometimes go to private establishments, for a change...! If you are going to stay at only one casa rural on the Ruta de la Lana, save your money for Tarancueña. If you stayed in Retortillo, you have 8 kms of lovely tarmac to start the day with. (I know Maggie & Co found a great alternative route in the countryside! But it will be a detour.) As for me, I was thrown right into the canyon that runs between Tarancueña and Caracena. This stretch reminds me of the mountain gorge to Sigüenza. My neck hurt from looking up towards the cliffs, and from constantly looking down to see where I put my feet. The path alternates between rocks, grass and dirt. Since it's the bottom of a canyon it goes up and down (not constantly upwards as the March of Death from yesterday's stage.) The only hard part is when it's time to leave the gorge and climb up to Caracenas on the ridge, but that's only for a few hundred meters. Two years ago I did this stretch basically jumping on one leg because my foot hurt too much. If you are already familiar with this canyon, go figure. Walking with two feet instead of one was a whole new experience, that's for sure...! Unfortunately the photos didn't turn out as I wanted in the faint morning light. But I did what I could, watch below. (They come in random order today.) Then follow myriads of small villages. Kevin O'Brien talks of fuentes and bars in some of them. Except from the fuente in Caracenas, I didn't see any at all. On the other hand I didn't search for them. I marched straight through the villages with my newly found energy. I hope I won't have to pay for it tomorrow! San Esteban de Gormaz is a large town in the likes of, for example, Casas Ibáñez and Cifuentes. Just what a city pilgrim like me needs. Unfortunately, the hostal Moreno is located at the far end of town. It takes ages to get there, and ages to go back to town if you want to explore. Last time I stayed in the hotel Rivera del Duero, which is much more centric. It is quite fancy, but in one way or another I got a special price by the man who happened to be behind the counter. I paid something like 25-30 euros for a room, instead of almost 50. Thanks to my humble pilgrim smile, of course. Too bad he wasn't there today...! In Rivera del Duero I could come and go as I wished, being right in the middle of town. As I am writing this, I have to do an extra pilgrimage just to get to back to hostal Moreno! The general topic of conversation in town is the river where you can go swimming. Everyone suggests that I should try it. I don't know. The water is brown. If I wasn't dirty before, I'm sure I would be by the time I got up from there. They will only get me near that river if they carry me with my hands and feet tied together. Ok but the rest of the town is really nice, I said I liked it! Don't come for me. Tomorrow is "only" 30 kms, but it's a small village with no tienda. So I'm off now to buy some food. I recently got even more energy when my country's socker team won the bronze medal in Women's Soccer! I was a nervous wreck, but we made it. A great way to end the evening! Let's see what tomorrow brings. BP [/QUOTE]
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