Brief post Primitivo thoughts

[gns]

I walked the Primitivo from 17th to the 29th of April. Rather than give a blow by blow account which has been done before I though I would add some brief thoughts that might be of use to anyone contemplating doing this Camino. I am in good health but was pretty unfit before starting in Oviedo.

Stages:
Oviedo to San Juan - a long first day with a sharp climb at the end. I left Oviedo late as I went first to the Cathedral which opened at 10 am. Nice countryside but the walk into Grado felt like a mini Zamora in my unfot state.

San Juan to Bodenaya - Another long stage ending in a big ascent which gets steep towards the top. A 2km detour at Cornellana as I went to buy sunblock and missed the turning. I walked in hope for a while before admitting the mistake to myself. Great Donativo Albuergue in Bodenaya which really launched our Camino family.

Bodenaya to Borres - Not the gimme which the Northern Camino guide suggests. I didn't eat anything in the morning as we missed the bar in Tineo and blew up towards the top of the climb. First of many steep descents down to Campiello. Functional municipale in in Borres but excellent and friendly el Barin provided a memorable meal.

Borres to Berducedo - Exhausting but amazing walk over the Hospitales after 7 am breakfast in the bar. The climb was long but manageable with the exception of the brutal ramp which follows the pass . The worst part was the steep downhill after the Palo de Alto. The last part was bit weary but helped on by other pilgrims and the bar at Lago.

Berducedo to Castro - Uneventful morning walk for 14km on the road to the dam as fires blocked the Camino. Early starters missed the warnings from the Albergue owners and were mostly turned back after La Mesa. Lunch at Cafe Centro followed by delightful afternoon walk to Castro. The youth hostel in Castro is peaceful but only provides pre-cooked meals which you have to microwave. Still worth the stay,

Castro to Fonsagrada - Short stage with a big climb to start that seems to go on for ever. Second half mainly alongside the road with a beast of a climb into town if you take the left turn just short of Fonsagrada, Excellent Albergue Cantabrico with pulpo for dinner to celebrate reaching Galicia.

Fonsagrada to Castroverde - Tough stage even with a week in my legs. The climb to A Lastra is a steep one but it gets better from then on. Long break in Cadovo to rehydrate the a sharp uphill followed by a pleasant walk into Castroverde. Definite change in scenery as the mountains end and the wildflowers are out in the meadows. First Galician municipale, which is officious but adequate. Expensive meal in the only restaurant open on the Sunday just before it closed. I swear the steak was still mooing when they first served it. Bar showing the Real Barcelona game kindly opened the kitchen to feed late arrivals.

Castroverde to Lugo - Uneventful morning covering the flattish 20 km to the main city on the Primitivo. Muncipale true to form but the old city is a treat.

Lugo to A Seixa - Many km of road walking in the only day of dull weather with a shocking 30 minutes of light rain. Bar at San Roman friendly but the last few km were a bit of a slog mentally if not physically. Muncipale as expected but seems better than the others and a nice bar.

A Seixa to Rivadiso - Excuse me but I seem to be on the wrong Camino. After the usual solitude of the Primitivo in the morning the road into Melide leads me to my first ever experience of the Frances. One minute there is no one, the next it is like Piccadilly Circus. By Santiago this has produced a degree of gallows humour ("Wo ist ihr Rucksack?" "Das ist kein Urlaub?") Never mind, I don't own the Camino and after adjusting, enjoyed the rest of the stage to the lovely riverside location of the Rivadiso municipale,

Rivadiso to O Pedrozo - Short and uneventful stage with a growing sense of closeness to Santiago. I am no longer bothered by the crowds and we celebrated with a pizza at one of the many outlets of the Che business empire. Some people didn't realise you need to follow the road into O Pedrozo and added a couple of km to the day's stage.

O Pedrozo to Santiago - Nine of us strolled the last stretch into Santiago in a holiday mood. Arrived at the cathedral with conflicting emotions but determined to return again.

Overall it was a fantastic Camino. I was a bit taken aback by the numbers on the Frances but I am of the mind that you can't judge other people's motives abilities or opportunities so it is wrong to want the Camino to yourself.

Here are a few thematic comments:

Difficulty - The weather was stunning throughout creating perfect walking conditions. I still found it very hard in the first week and assuming more normal wetter conditions it would be a huge challenge. At the same time it was often very hot and I would not want to walk in Summer. There was a strong wind crossing the Hospitales which if any worse would have been dangerous. A lot of the climbs anbd descents are off road so I think mud could cause some long stages.

Accommodation - There were roughly ten pilgrims on the same schedule as me and we all found beds in the Alburgues. Numbers jumped at Berducedo with a lot of people comimg up from Pola. I think that there will be pressure on accommodation in the early stages as the season gets busier. I can't think of anywhere I would not stay again.

Scenery - Stunning

Regards

 

[timr]

Thanks I really enjoyed reading this. I was on day 3 of Primitvo this day last year and it brings back very happy memories. I agree at this time last year there was a cohort of about 20-25 walking and no pressure at all on beds. But this changed certainly before the end of May, according to forum reports. There is a brief window of opportunity at the very end of April, when the snow is hopefully gone and before the crowds come.
And I agree with your comment

Never mind, I don't own the Camino

I don't mind how many people walk, even though I appreciate solitude very much myself.

 

[Left Coaster]

Thanks, a very useful overview. I will be leaving Oviedo on May 13th and hope I will be as successful as you. Beginning to taper my training walks and have assembled my gear. I did the CF 3 years ago but, as others have said, each Camino is a new adventure.

Buen Camino.

 

[alaskadiver]

Thanks for your summary, I appreciate very much as we leave home in 9 days. Question: How warm was it inside the albergues you slept in? The temps across the region are very hot and the extended forgot is looking even warmer. I'm thinking of leaving my 1 season sleeping bag at home and just taking a bag liner. If it helps you answer my question, let me say that we keep our home temperature at 67F during the day in winter and lower to 65F at night so we don't get hot while sleeping.
What do you think? I'm not wearing walking clothes to bed. just t-shirt and underpants.

 

[gns]

Thanks, a very useful overview. I will be leaving Oviedo on May 13th and hope I will be as successful as you. Beginning to taper my training walks and have assembled my gear. I did the CF 3 years ago but, as others have said, each Camino is a new adventure.

Buen Camino.

Buen Camino!

I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. The one tip I would give on accommodation is if you intend staying in Borres make sure to ask in Campiello how many people have passed through before you that day, to make sure there will be room at Borres (There are 19 beds in Borres and you don't want to be the one on the top of the three decker - or underneath for that matter).

 

[gns]

Thanks for your summary, I appreciate very much as we leave home in 9 days. Question: How warm was it inside the albergues you slept in? The temps across the region are very hot and the extended forgot is looking even warmer. I'm thinking of leaving my 1 season sleeping bag at home and just taking a bag liner. If it helps you answer my question, let me say that we keep our home temperature at 67F during the day in winter and lower to 65F at night so we don't get hot while sleeping.
What do you think? I'm not wearing walking clothes to bed. just t-shirt and underpants.

I have a very cheap lightweight sleeping bag and had no problems except at A Seixa where someone left the window open. The mornings were often very cold with occasional frost before the sun warmed things up. Lightweight gloves might be a useful accessory in the higher stages.

Buen Camino.

 

[simeon]

There is a brief window of opportunity at the very end of April, when the snow is hopefully gone and before the crowds come.
.

great post, is there a similar window in the autumn?

 

[timr]

great post, is there a similar window in the autumn?

I don't know, but I would be equally interested to know from some people who walked the latter end of last year.

 

[texano]

great post, is there a similar window in the autumn?

I'd like to walk in September.....

 

[irishgurrrl]

I walked the Primitivo from 17th to the 29th of April. Rather than give a blow by blow account which has been done before I though I would add some brief thoughts that might be of use to anyone contemplating doing this Camino. I am in good health but was pretty unfit before starting in Oviedo.

Stages:
Oviedo to San Juan - a long first day with a sharp climb at the end. I left Oviedo late as I went first to the Cathedral which opened at 10 am. Nice countryside but the walk into Grado felt like a mini Zamora in my unfot state.

San Juan to Bodenaya - Another long stage ending in a big ascent which gets steep towards the top. A 2km detour at Cornellana as I went to buy sunblock and missed the turning. I walked in hope for a while before admitting the mistake to myself. Great Donativo Albuergue in Bodenaya which really launched our Camino family.

Bodenaya to Borres - Not the gimme which the Northern Camino guide suggests. I didn't eat anything in the morning as we missed the bar in Tineo and blew up towards the top of the climb. First of many steep descents down to Cornellana. Functional municipale in in Borres but excellent and friendly el Barin provided a memorable meal.

Borres to Berducedo - Exhausting but amazing walk over the Hospitales after 7 am breakfast in the bar. The climb was long but manageable with the exception of the brutal ramp which follows the pass . The worst part was the steep downhill after the Palo de Alto. The last part was bit weary but helped on by other pilgrims and the bar at Lago.

Berducedo to Castro - Uneventful morning walk for 14km on the road to the dam as fires blocked the Camino. Early starters missed the warnings from the Albergue owners and were mostly turned back after La Mesa. Lunch at Cafe Centro followed by delightful afternoon walk to Castro. The youth hostel in Castro is peaceful but only provides pre-cooked meals which you have to microwave. Still worth the stay,

Castro to Fonsagrada - Short stage with a big climb to start that seems to go on for ever. Second half mainly alongside the road with a beast of a climb into town if you take the left turn just short of Fonsagrada, Excellent Albergue Cantabrico with pulpo for dinner to celebrate reaching Galicia.

Fonsagrada to Castroverde - Tough stage even with a week in my legs. The climb to A Lastra is a steep one but it gets better from then on. Long break in Cadovo to rehydrate the a sharp uphill followed by a pleasant walk into Castroverde. Definite change in scenery as the mountains end and the wildflowers are out in the meadows. First Galician municipale, which is officious but adequate. Expensive meal in the only restaurant open on the Sunday just before it closed. I swear the steak was still mooing when they first served it. Bar showing the Real Barcelona game kindly opened the kitchen to feed late arrivals.

Castroverde to Lugo - Uneventful morning covering the flattish 20 km to the main city on the Primitivo. Muncipale true to form but the old city is a treat.

Lugo to A Seixa - Many km of road walking in the only day of dull weather with a shocking 30 minutes of light rain. Bar at San Roman friendly but the alst few km were a bit of a slog mentally if not physically. Muncipale as expected but seems better than the others and a nice bar.

A Seixa to Rivadiso - Excuse me but I seem to be on the wrong Camino. After the usual solitude of the Primitivo in the morning the road into Melide leads me to my first ever experience of the Frances. One minute there is none the next it is like Piccadilly circus. By Santiago this has produced a degree of gallows humour ("Wo ist ihr Rucksack?" "Das ist kein Urlaub?") Never mind, I don't own the Camino and after adjusting, enjoyed the rest of the stage to the lovely riverside location of the Rivadiso municipale,

Rivadiso to O Pedrozo - Short and uneventful stage with a growing sense of closeness to Santiago. I am no longer bothered by the crowds and we celebrated with a pizza at one of the many outlets of the Che business empire. Some people didn't realise you need to follow the road into O Pedrozo and added a couple of km to the day's stage.

O Pedrozo to Santiago - Nine of us strolled the last stretch into Santiago in a holiday mood. Arrived at the cathedral with conflicting emotions but determined to return again.

Overall it was a fantastic Camino. I was a bit taken aback by the numbers on the Frances but I am of the mind that you can't judge other people's motives abilities or opportunities so it is wrong to want the Camino to yourself.

Here are a few thematic commetns:

Difficulty - The weather was stunning throughout creating perfect walking conditions. I still found it very hard in the first week and assuming more normal wetter conditions it would be a huge challenge. At the same time it was often very hot and I would not want to walk in Summer. There was a strong wind crossing the Hospitales which if any worse would have been dangerous. A lot of the climbs anbd descents are off road so I think mud could cause some long stages.

Accommodation - There were roughly ten pilgrims on the same schedule as me and we all found beds in the Alburgues. Numbers jumped at Berducedo with a lot of people comimg up from Pola. I think that there will be pressure on accommodation in the early stages as the season gets busier. I can't think of anywhere I would not stay again.

Scenery - Stunning

Regards

Thanks for the great update. I'm currently on the Primitivo and doing relatively short stages to start. Just finished Day 2 (in Grado). Yesterday I left Oviedo and walked to Escamplero via the Naranco sites. I stayed in the (great!) pension attached to the local (also great!) bar/restaurant called El Tendejon de Fernando with a group of 9 Brazilian pilgrims. Other pilgrims stayed in the nearby albergue but it didn't seem too busy. That all changed today however and the route seemed to get a lot busier in the afternoon as I walked into Grado. Apparently a few small groups and a good few "new" pilgrims walked from Oviedo to Grado today. Its creating demand on accommodation in Salas (both hotels completely booked out) so it's worth checking the demand and booking ahead if needs be where the number of beds are limited. As I'm only going as far as Cornellana tomorrow I'm hoping I'm ok. I booked the next night in Salas just in case. It's worth noting that both hotels listed in some guidebooks no longer operate in Cornellana so the choice is very limited to the municipal albergue (in the monastery) and a couple of holiday lets not mentioned in the guidebooks. Both holiday lets are booked out for tomorrow though apparently so I'll be staying in the albergue assuming there are places.

So it looks like you can just get caught up in a mini wave of pilgrims or groups here like any other Camino (although to a much smaller degree than the CF of course) especially if you start walking on the weekend when you would expect most pilgrims to start their Camino from Oviedo or if you happen to meet a glut of hikers coming from the Camino del Norte. I'm doing shorter stages than most so that should mean that in theory there will be less demand the nights I stay at a particular place further along.

On a final note, level of difficulty is always relative to your own fitness levels but I would say this Camino is less forgiving for the physically underprepared (like me!). It's definitely worth being at least moderately hill fit for this Camino and tailoring the distances to suit where you are at fitness wise.

Buen Camino!

 

[timr]

@irishgurrrl I hope you continue to enjoy. I was there exactly this time last year and the cohort was about 20-25, with no pressure on beds. BUT I know from this forum that this changed very quickly before the end of May.

 

[HighlandsHiker]

I walked the Primitivo from 17th to the 29th of April. Rather than give a blow by blow account which has been done before I though I would add some brief thoughts that might be of use to anyone contemplating doing this Camino. I am in good health but was pretty unfit before starting in Oviedo.

Stages:
Oviedo to San Juan - a long first day with a sharp climb at the end. I left Oviedo late as I went first to the Cathedral which opened at 10 am. Nice countryside but the walk into Grado felt like a mini Zamora in my unfot state.

San Juan to Bodenaya - Another long stage ending in a big ascent which gets steep towards the top. A 2km detour at Cornellana as I went to buy sunblock and missed the turning. I walked in hope for a while before admitting the mistake to myself. Great Donativo Albuergue in Bodenaya which really launched our Camino family.

Bodenaya to Borres - Not the gimme which the Northern Camino guide suggests. I didn't eat anything in the morning as we missed the bar in Tineo and blew up towards the top of the climb. First of many steep descents down to Campiello. Functional municipale in in Borres but excellent and friendly el Barin provided a memorable meal.

Borres to Berducedo - Exhausting but amazing walk over the Hospitales after 7 am breakfast in the bar. The climb was long but manageable with the exception of the brutal ramp which follows the pass . The worst part was the steep downhill after the Palo de Alto. The last part was bit weary but helped on by other pilgrims and the bar at Lago.

Berducedo to Castro - Uneventful morning walk for 14km on the road to the dam as fires blocked the Camino. Early starters missed the warnings from the Albergue owners and were mostly turned back after La Mesa. Lunch at Cafe Centro followed by delightful afternoon walk to Castro. The youth hostel in Castro is peaceful but only provides pre-cooked meals which you have to microwave. Still worth the stay,

Castro to Fonsagrada - Short stage with a big climb to start that seems to go on for ever. Second half mainly alongside the road with a beast of a climb into town if you take the left turn just short of Fonsagrada, Excellent Albergue Cantabrico with pulpo for dinner to celebrate reaching Galicia.

Fonsagrada to Castroverde - Tough stage even with a week in my legs. The climb to A Lastra is a steep one but it gets better from then on. Long break in Cadovo to rehydrate the a sharp uphill followed by a pleasant walk into Castroverde. Definite change in scenery as the mountains end and the wildflowers are out in the meadows. First Galician municipale, which is officious but adequate. Expensive meal in the only restaurant open on the Sunday just before it closed. I swear the steak was still mooing when they first served it. Bar showing the Real Barcelona game kindly opened the kitchen to feed late arrivals.

Castroverde to Lugo - Uneventful morning covering the flattish 20 km to the main city on the Primitivo. Muncipale true to form but the old city is a treat.

Lugo to A Seixa - Many km of road walking in the only day of dull weather with a shocking 30 minutes of light rain. Bar at San Roman friendly but the last few km were a bit of a slog mentally if not physically. Muncipale as expected but seems better than the others and a nice bar.

A Seixa to Rivadiso - Excuse me but I seem to be on the wrong Camino. After the usual solitude of the Primitivo in the morning the road into Melide leads me to my first ever experience of the Frances. One minute there is no one, the next it is like Piccadilly Circus. By Santiago this has produced a degree of gallows humour ("Wo ist ihr Rucksack?" "Das ist kein Urlaub?") Never mind, I don't own the Camino and after adjusting, enjoyed the rest of the stage to the lovely riverside location of the Rivadiso municipale,

Rivadiso to O Pedrozo - Short and uneventful stage with a growing sense of closeness to Santiago. I am no longer bothered by the crowds and we celebrated with a pizza at one of the many outlets of the Che business empire. Some people didn't realise you need to follow the road into O Pedrozo and added a couple of km to the day's stage.

O Pedrozo to Santiago - Nine of us strolled the last stretch into Santiago in a holiday mood. Arrived at the cathedral with conflicting emotions but determined to return again.

Overall it was a fantastic Camino. I was a bit taken aback by the numbers on the Frances but I am of the mind that you can't judge other people's motives abilities or opportunities so it is wrong to want the Camino to yourself.

Here are a few thematic comments:

Difficulty - The weather was stunning throughout creating perfect walking conditions. I still found it very hard in the first week and assuming more normal wetter conditions it would be a huge challenge. At the same time it was often very hot and I would not want to walk in Summer. There was a strong wind crossing the Hospitales which if any worse would have been dangerous. A lot of the climbs anbd descents are off road so I think mud could cause some long stages.

Accommodation - There were roughly ten pilgrims on the same schedule as me and we all found beds in the Alburgues. Numbers jumped at Berducedo with a lot of people comimg up from Pola. I think that there will be pressure on accommodation in the early stages as the season gets busier. I can't think of anywhere I would not stay again.

Scenery - Stunning

Regards

Thanks so much, gns! All noted and will be used.

 

[simeon]

ill start a new post on this one and see if we get any answers. I was looking at September as well. (Near the end)

 

[irishgurrrl]

@irishgurrrl I hope you continue to enjoy. I was there exactly this time last year and the cohort was about 20-25, with no pressure on beds. BUT I know from this forum that this changed very quickly before the end of May.

Thanks timr It's been beautiful so far. Way less fit than I'd like to be so it could get "interesting" once I get to the real hilly bits! Haha

 

[gns]

Thanks timr It's been beautiful so far. Way less fit than I'd like to be so it could get "interesting" once I get to the real hilly bits! Haha

Buen Camino!

Just do what I did and ignore the hares racing uphill. Slow and steady is good enough as long as you get there in time for dinner.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Buen Camino!

Just do what I did and ignore the hares racing uphill. Slow and steady is good enough as long as you get there in time for dinner.

Yes definitely!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Buen Camino!

Just do what I did and ignore the hares racing uphill. Slow and steady is good enough as long as you get there in time for dinner.

And thanks!

 

[Shauna]

Enjoying reading your adventure. We start on 6 June so interested to hear about accommodations along the way. Is the Hotel Cornallena not open? I have emailed them but no reply.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Enjoying reading your adventure. We start on 6 June so interested to hear about accommodations along the way. Is the Hotel Cornallena not open? I have emailed them but no reply.

Just spotted your post now (if you reply to my posts I'll get an alert). All the hotels are closed. Just the albergue which is lovely or holiday lets.