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Camino Francés through Aragón

Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

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I was supposed to have been on pilgrimage last fall and was planning on starting at SJPP . I did not know about this alternative. How would I find out more about this route? I love the quiet fields and general lack of crowds.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I was supposed to have been on pilgrimage last fall and was planning on starting at SJPP . I did not know about this alternative. How would I find out more about this route?

There is a subforum about the Aragones:


I walked from Somport to Puenta la Reina (where it connects with the Frances). Sadly I did not see the Santa Cristina hospital - so I have a good a reason to walk it again.....
 
I was supposed to have been on pilgrimage last fall and was planning on starting at SJPP . I did not know about this alternative. How would I find out more about this route? I love the quiet fields and general lack of crowds.
I think you are going to love this alternative. In the link, you can have a quick overview (stages, the starting point, ...). Here you have my post about the first stage (Somport to Jaca) and one video in YouTube.

This is also the official info from the local agency.

Thank you!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Depending on how much time you have, I know that several forum members highly recommend starting at Oloron Ste. Marie, which is a two-day walk to the Somport Pass. That gives you the beauty of walking towards the mountains, as well as a little warm-up before ascending. You’ll find lots of information on it in the subforum @Marc S. linked you to.

The Aragonés does not get a lot of traffic. I cannot understand why — the infrastructure for pilgrims is great, the route is beautiful and goes through several pretty hill towns, and you can visit one of the wonders of the world, the Romanesque monastery at San Juan de la Peña.

Highly recommended!
 
As well as San Juan de la Peña (west of Jaca), which is one of my 10-top-ever travel experiences, anyone passing through Jaca should have a look at the diocesan museum, a treasurehouse of early mediaeval art. Fans of S Francis Xavier can also look at a side-trip from Sangüesa to Javier to check out the castle where he grew up. I have never understood why the Aragonese was so lightly frequented aside from: a) there being no Martin Sheen film, and b) the absence of an easily accessible starting point.
 
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Depending on how much time you have, I know that several forum members highly recommend starting at Oloron Ste. Marie, which is a two-day walk to the Somport Pass. That gives you the beauty of walking towards the mountains, as well as a little warm-up before ascending. You’ll find lots of information on it in the subforum @Marc S. linked you to.

The Aragonés does not get a lot of traffic. I cannot understand why — the infrastructure for pilgrims is great, the route is beautiful and goes through several pretty hill towns, and you can visit one of the wonders of the world, the Romanesque monastery at San Juan de la Peña.

Highly recommended!
As well as San Juan de la Peña (west of Jaca), which is one of my 10-top-ever travel experiences, anyone passing through Jaca should have a look at the diocesan museum, a treasurehouse of early mediaeval art. Fans of S Francis Xavier can also look at a side-trip from Sangüesa to Javier to check out the castle where he grew up. I have never understood why the Aragonese was so lightly frequented aside from: a) there being no Martin Sheen film, and b) the absence of an easily accessible starting point.
I truly appreciate your input! My only concern is I will be walking alone..
 
Depending on how much time you have, I know that several forum members highly recommend starting at Oloron Ste. Marie, which is a two-day walk to the Somport Pass. That gives you the beauty of walking towards the mountains, as well as a little warm-up before ascending. You’ll find lots of information on it in the subforum @Marc S. linked you to.

The Aragonés does not get a lot of traffic. I cannot understand why — the infrastructure for pilgrims is great, the route is beautiful and goes through several pretty hill towns, and you can visit one of the wonders of the world, the Romanesque monastery at San Juan de la Peña.

Highly recommended!
Sounds perfect!
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Depending on how much time you have, I know that several forum members highly recommend starting at Oloron Ste. Marie, which is a two-day walk to the Somport Pass.
Can't argue with that. The climb from Oloron up to the Somport is memorable. ... But! Let me suggest Lourdes as a starting point.... Lourdes is a strange but wonderful place. Worth experiencing..... And the several days' walk west from Lourdes to Oloron offers some of the most beautiful Shire-like scenery that I've ever enjoyed.

1610727931764.png
 
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As well as San Juan de la Peña (west of Jaca), which is one of my 10-top-ever travel experiences, anyone passing through Jaca should have a look at the diocesan museum, a treasurehouse of early mediaeval art. Fans of S Francis Xavier can also look at a side-trip from Sangüesa to Javier to check out the castle where he grew up. I have never understood why the Aragonese was so lightly frequented aside from: a) there being no Martin Sheen film, and b) the absence of an easily accessible starting point.
Sshhh... keep the secret! :cool:
 
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I think you are going to love this alternative. In the link, you can have a quick overview (stages, the starting point, ...). Here you have my post about the first stage (Somport to Jaca) and one video in YouTube.

This is also the official info from the local agency.

Thank you!

I can’t get a connection to that last link ... just a blank page 🙂

Doesn’t the Aragonés have a connection to the Templars?
 
the absence of an easily accessible starting point.
Most of the pilgrims I met while walking the Aragones started at the Somport Pass, where there is a pilgrim hostel, and reached it by bus. I don't know where they began their bus trip, as I walked from Oloron Ste Marie after flying from Calgary to Toronto to Paris (Charles de Gaulle), bus to Orly, flight to Pau, bus into town, train to Oloron Ste Marie. This was a lengthy journey, with several delays, but I still started my walk from Oloron Ste Marie on the morning after my flight from Canada landed at Charles de Gaulle. I knew, from French tourist information, that the valley leading up to the Somport Pass was often very wet. But I had not expected the major storm which put out all the electricity in Oloron Ste Marie and up the valley, leaving me arriving in town in the pitch dark and the pouring rain with nothing open to get food. Fortunately, I had a reservation for the night, with breakfast included. My adventure was just beginning. I do not see any particular challenge in doing the walk alone. I was 68 at the time.
 
I can’t get a connection to that last link ... just a blank page 🙂

Doesn’t the Aragonés have a connection to the Templars?
My mistake: try this.
I’m not sure about the Templars but it could be: there are several castles and fortress in Aragon connected with San Anton Order and other Hospitality Knights. I’ll check it.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
In 2013 we took a train from Barcelona to Zaragoza, went upstairs to the bus station and took the bus to Jaca .From there a bus to Somport arriving at 3 pm. After a coffee we walked back down to Canfranc Estacion and slept there. next day walked to Jaca and onwards. Loved the Aragones.
 
The first edition came out in 2003 and has become the go-to-guide for many pilgrims over the years. It is shipping with a Pilgrim Passport (Credential) from the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.
In 2013 we took a train from Barcelona to Zaragoza, went upstairs to the bus station and took the bus to Jaca .From there a bus to Somport arriving at 3 pm. After a coffee we walked back down to Canfranc Estacion and slept there. next day walked to Jaca and onwards. Loved the Aragones.
Thank you for your account..
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
When I walked it, I flew to Toulouse, then trains and buses to the Somport pass.

As for walking it alone, there is a thread somewhere here with a ling discussion on that topic. I walked it alone (I am female) and thought it was fine.
 
When I walked it, I flew to Toulouse, then trains and buses to the Somport pass.

As for walking it alone, there is a thread somewhere here with a ling discussion on that topic. I walked it alone (I am female) and thought it was fine.
Thanks for the input!
 
These threads about lesser-known pilgrimage route variants are really great, and this one in particular has piqued my interest. If luck is with me I might walk it. Thanks to all who have contributed to the thread.

Not living in Spain or France I cannot immediately visualize any of these lesser-known routes because, well, they are not well known. "Camino Aragonés" ... hmmm, probably something to do with Aragon. I have certainly heard that name ... think it's a province or region of Spain ... but where is it again? ... Must find a map and look it up. And find those towns, that I have not heard of before, but are mentioned in the thread. And draw a route line.

Brainstorming idea:

It would be great if there was a button or link at the top of these lesser-known-route threads that one could push to reveal an overview of the route on a map, or alternatively to all pilgrimage routes with the one in question highlighted or in bold or similar. Only enough information to give a very general idea of the region and the route would be needed.

It's just a thought.

Being entirely unfamiliar with the route I myself would not dare to post such a link to a map, as I might botch it and lead people astray.

Thanks again to all who have contributed, and to Ivar for enabling the forums.
 
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I walked the Aragones in early 2019 with a friend I met on a previous camino. I took the train from Zaragoza to Canfranc Estacion where I had the first night booked and walked straight up to the Somport Pass, got a beer and a sello in the bar and started back down again to meet my friend that evening and we started out together the next day. It was quiet enough and we met only a handful of pilgrims in the 8 days or so it took us to walk to Puente la Reina..
 

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Perfect memento/gift in a presentation box. Engraving available, 25 character max.
Canfranc Estacion has a fascinating history, worth booking the short tour if you have the time. Afterwards I went for a sneaky tour of my own...
 

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It would be great if there was a button or link at the top of these lesser-known-route threads that one could push to reveal an overview of the route on a map, or alternatively to all pilgrimage routes with the one in question highlighted or in bold or similar.


There are several good online sources for maps showing many of the routes.

Mundicamino has one.

Gronze has one: https://www.gronze.com/#todos

But hands down, the best source, IMO, is the map Ivar sells in his store. It identifies and depicts more than 40 caminos in Spain. It is produced by the Spanish Ministry of Fomento (development, roughly).



Wise Pilgrim also has a very comprehensive, more decorative map, but it isn’t a detailed map like the Spanish Ministry one.

 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
I walked the Aragones in reverse, from Puente la Reina to Pau. (While walking Santiago to Rome.) LOVED it (and the challenge of finding the path backwards). It was winter (Mar 2019), so met very few others coming the other way. Spent 2 nights at Canfranc Estacion as it snowed overnight the first night, but could walk the next day on the road over the Somport Pass, which was one of the best days ever, in fresh snow but sunny blue skies. Very cold though, so was delighted that the café at the top of the pass (on the Spanish side) was open for hot chocolate. So glad I could do the tour at Canfranc Estacion as it was well worth it.
 
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So glad I could do the tour at Canfranc Estacion as it was well worth it.
Out of curiosity, was your tour in Spanish or English? I did enjoy it, even just being in the building there was an almost tangible sense of the history of the place, but I'm afraid I understood very little of it.
 
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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Out of curiosity, was your tour in Spanish or English?
The guide spoke in Spanish, but we were given headphones which we could adjust to an English narrative. They were a bit tricky to wear under the safety helmet, but worked well enough.

Canfranc.webp
 
Yeah, I gave up on them trying to figure them out! The guide was very animated and passionate, that was why I was dying to understand her! It was in early May '19, snow around me on the pass but not on the path.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
@Pilgrim9 -If you google Aragones camino route map, you’ll likely find one quickly.
Also, the Confraternity of St James (https://www.csj.org.uk/routes ) had route maps and route overviews that I used in the past for planning purposes.
@NorthernLight , @Pilgrim9, there are many resources for maps and routes of the Camino Aragonés. I leave you some (in Spanish) and I have also left in my web the main ideas along with a map of the two main alternatives. I also include a link to the extension that allows you to visit one of the main points in the history and creation of the Kingdom of Aragon at the time of the Reconquest: San Juan de la Peña.

IMG_4630.png
  1. description of stages and albergues > Gronze
  2. GPS Tracks > RayyRosa
It is a Camino that does not disappoint in any way. Perhaps lonely but that is solved in Puente La Reina de Navarra when it joins the French Way. If I have to highlight something, the hostel in the village of Arrés. It is one of those places, like the albergue in Grañón, where the pure spirit of the Camino is kept alive.

Buen Camino!

IMG_0614.png
 
The guide spoke in Spanish, but we were given headphones which we could adjust to an English narrative. They were a bit tricky to wear under the safety helmet, but worked well enough.

View attachment 92499
Canfranc-Estación is just amazing. I can't wait for the entire station environment to be finished and ready to start up again. The first time I did the Camino Aragonés, I arrived late to Somport and stopped to sleep here. Lucky me!!

IMG_0633.webp
 
I came up to San Juan de la Peña from the ”back,” on the Camino Catalán, and then walked down to Santa Cruz de Serós and Santa Cilia de Jaca. We then got a ride up to Somport so we wouldn’t miss the beautiful walk down into Jaca.

The wikiloc tracks on your blog, https://www.diegoromero.es/ show (I think) that you went up to San Juan from Jaca without going all the way to the turnoff for Santa Cruz. is that right? Is that the trail through Atarés?

If so, can you tell us a bit about that path? There are threads here in which people have said it is totally abandoned and hard to navigate.

Check out this one.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I came up to San Juan de la Peña from the ”back,” on the Camino Catalán, and then walked down to Santa Cruz de Serós and Santa Cilia de Jaca. We then got a ride up to Somport so we wouldn’t miss the beautiful walk down into Jaca.

The wikiloc tracks on your blog, https://www.diegoromero.es/ show (I think) that you went up to San Juan from Jaca without going all the way to the turnoff for Santa Cruz. is that right? Is that the trail through Atarés?

If so, can you tell us a bit about that path? There are threads here in which people have said it is totally abandoned and hard to navigate.

Check out this one.
Yes, you're right: the track is from Jaca to San Juan de la Peña through Atarés and return to the Camino through Santa Cruz de la Serós. It's an extra stage in the Camino Aragonés and in common with Camino Catalán.

It's a route that people who spend time in Jaca usually do even in summer because it runs through the forest and hardly experience the high temperatures. I think it's no so hard but there are sections where the slope is interesting to say the least.

As you could see, it is worthwhile to enter the interpretation centers of both the Kingdom of Aragon and the monastery itself (the old and the new one).
 
As you could see, it is worthwhile to enter the interpretation centers of both the Kingdom of Aragon and the monastery itself (the old and the new one).
Is the interpretation center for the Kingdom of Aragon in that smaller, separate building close to the "new" monastery? I was there in November 2019 and things closed early so I hardly had time to explore the new monastery before going to the old one.
IMG_20191104_113924.webp
 
Is the interpretation center for the Kingdom of Aragon in that separate building close to the "new" monastery? I was there in November 2019 and things closed early so I hardly had time to explore the new monastery before going to the old one.
Yes exactly... I think they close at 14:00 (info in Spanish). There are a lot information in the interpretation center of the monastery about the Kingdom of Aragon but if I had to choose, without a doubt, the old monastery. I shot some spherical photos and the truth is that the atmosphere and imagine yourself in those times gives you goose bumps.

IMG_4594.webp
IMG_4620.webp
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
I walked the Aragones in reverse, from Puente la Reina to Pau. (While walking Santiago to Rome.) LOVED it (and the challenge of finding the path backwards). It was winter (Mar 2019), so met very few others coming the other way. Spent 2 nights at Canfranc Estacion as it snowed overnight the first night, but could walk the next day on the road over the Somport Pass, which was one of the best days ever, in fresh snow but sunny blue skies. Very cold though, so was delighted that the café at the top of the pass (on the Spanish side) was open for hot chocolate. So glad I could do the tour at Canfranc Estacion as it was well worth it.
Completely agree @jsalt... but if the Aragonese Way is already solitary, the COVID has made everything much more complicated... look at the statistics: just 229 pilgrims.
 
Indeed, Aragones is a beautiful Camino. And if you are not in rush, and love mountains you can take 5 days off in Somport and walk Senda de Camille, a circular track, including climbing Bisaurin
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Indeed, Aragones is a beautiful Camino. And if you are not in rush, and love mountains you can take 5 days off in Somport and walk Senda de Camille, a circular track, including climbing Bisaurin
View attachment 92555
Absolutely! There are so many routes... very connected with the Camino, we have The Route of Holy Grail visiting several locations in the Jacetania county.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I loved that the Pyrenees remained in view as they receded in the distance over the first few days....20210131_191810.webp
 
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I never get tired of hiking any of the routes in the Pyrenees. Have you been to any of the ibones?

IMG_4632.webp
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Depending on how much time you have, I know that several forum members highly recommend starting at Oloron Ste. Marie, which is a two-day walk to the Somport Pass. That gives you the beauty of walking towards the mountains, as well as a little warm-up before ascending. You’ll find lots of information on it in the subforum @Marc S. linked you to.

The Aragonés does not get a lot of traffic. I cannot understand why — the infrastructure for pilgrims is great, the route is beautiful and goes through several pretty hill towns, and you can visit one of the wonders of the world, the Romanesque monastery at San Juan de la Peña.

Highly recommended!
Thank you!
 
I have done the Aragones in both directions and plan to keep walking it as long as my legs are moving! Very beautiful and peaceful, yet the pilgrim support is present.

While I second the opinions of starting in Lourdes or Marie St Oloron, here’s a third possibility: walk from Biarritz to SJPdP to MSO, then up over the Somport Pass. Stunning every step of the way and you’ll love leaving the pilgrim hordes behind in SJPdP as you walk the solitary path.

As for the alternative “historic” route from Jaca to SJdlP via Atares? Did it in the rain and snow and it was beyond challenging. Definitely one for the drier months and come equipped with good gps waypoints as the trail is not well-marked in places.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Can't argue with that. The climb from Oloron up to the Somport is memorable. ... But! Let me suggest Lourdes as a starting point.... Lourdes is a strange but wonderful place. Worth experiencing..... And the several days' walk west from Lourdes to Oloron offers some of the most beautiful Shire-like scenery that I've ever enjoyed.

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My last Camino was from Lourdes to SJPdP. Lourdes was . . . strange, I agree. I was ready to leave. I suspect my head was in a very different place than all the other faithful who were gathered there. I walked along the spine of the Pyrenees, through Oloron, until reaching San Jean, then continued on the CF.

This time, I'm considering walking the Aragones - I'm reading many good things about it. It won't be until next Spring. How was the actual walking - that is, do I have to prepare for more "mountain climbing" than my last time? I've done the ValCarlos and the Napolean.
 
How was the actual walking - that is, do I have to prepare for more "mountain climbing" than my last time? I've done the ValCarlos and the Napolean.
I haven't done the downhill portion to Jaca but I think it is all downhill. You may not like walking the up and down detours to/from the monasteries of San Juan de la Peña but you can catch buses to them. I don't remember anything else to complain about. (I had no complaints about the detour myself but I'm used to some really bad trails. Mostly on the forum I only read complaints about the ups and downs of it.) You do have to see San Juan de la Peña some way or another though.
 
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I haven't done the downhill portion to Jaca but I think it is all downhill. You may not like walking the up and down detours to/from the monasteries of San Juan de la Peña but you can catch buses to them. I don't remember anything else to complain about. (I had no complaints about the detour myself but I'm used to some really bad trails. Mostly on the forum I only read complaints about the ups and downs of it.) You do have to see San Juan de la Peña some way or another though.
Whether there is uphill walking when beginning the Aragones route depends on where you begin it. I began at Oloron Ste Marie, so the first part was easy uphill walking all the way to Somport. But the actual Camino Aragones begins at the Somport Pass, which you can access by bus, and where there is an albergue. The route is downhill from there, but, as @Rick of Rick and Peg points out, if you want to visit San Juan de la Peña, there is a steep uphill climb off the direct route, which can be avoided by taking a bus from Jaca. I did not walk from Jaca to the side route to San Juan de la Peña, since the bus was dropping off pilgrims continuing the Aragones at the bottom of the hill below San Juan de la Peña. There is an easy walking route to Santa Cilia from there, where I spent the night at the albergue and continued on the Aragones the next morning. There are other options, including taking the bus back to Jaca to walk from there, staying the night at the hotel at San Juan de la Peña, then walking downhill from there, etc. I would never walk the Aragones again without spending time at the monastery.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
There are other options, including taking the bus back to Jaca to walk from there, staying the night at the hotel at San Juan de la Peña,
FYI, and elaborating on @Albertagirl's post, the "new" monastery dates from about 1600 and is no longer a monastery. It is a hotel and museum combination. The old, medieval monastery is a museum/tourist site under an overhanging cliff (peña). It has architectural features covering about 600 years.
 
FYI, and elaborating on @Albertagirl's post, the "new" monastery dates from about 1600 and is no longer a monastery. It is a hotel and museum combination. The old, medieval monastery is a museum/tourist site under an overhanging cliff (peña). It has architectural features covering about 600 years.
The old royal monastery of San Juan de la Peña, cloister, and pantheon are truly extraordinary and very beautiful. Cut into the rocky hillside, the site is unforgettable.
I have not walked there, but the mountain road driving up is steep; be prepared!

It has been my professional privilege and personal pleasure to visit many special places, but San Juan de la Peña belongs in that unique category of sublime timeless perfection.
 
The walk from Marie St Oloron to Jaca is both more challenging AND more beautiful than either route from St. Jean to Roncevalles, but certainly does not rise to the definition of “mountain climbing”. It’s a developed path (with some road walking) that slowly winds through fields and alongside creeks and rivers in an almost always uphill climb.

Much less developed than either the Valcarlos or Napoleon, it will likely take you 4 to 5 days to walk that route and you’ll need to carry more water and food than you are used to on the Frances. There are some very narrow pathways on a steep incline above a river near Oloron, but unless you have an extreme fear of heights or falling, it is not that difficult to traverse.

Overall, that section was my favorite part of our 2019 walk from Pamplona to Lourdes via the Aragon Valley,
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
I made my own way with compass to Santa Cruz de la Seròs from Jaca. There were some markings but they petered out so it became a challenge. I stayed in the lovely little hotel in Santa Cruz and hiked up the mountain to San Juan after lunch.

My hike began in Arles on the Via Tolosana. If you have the time, this is the route I would recommend. I detoured to Pau, a town I much enjoy and easily went back on track, so one could easily start here.
 

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