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Life on the Camino - Miscellaneous Topics
Camping on the camino
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[QUOTE="wisepilgrim, post: 209570, member: 7293"] I have not read all of the posted replies, so I am repeating anything already mentioned I am glad that I am not alone :) When it comes to camping on the camino I cannot recommend it enough. How you go about doing it though depends a lot on what kind of traveler you are and what you are comfortable getting into. I am happy to share my method, but I should mention first that I fall into a very rare category of pilgrims for whom the sun is always shining. I have been walking for 10 years now, between the months of May and October, and have had exactly 1 day of rain per camino. I probably would not be keen on packing up a wet tent. I have a tent of choice, from REI. It is the half dome and comes in three parts: the tent, the fly, and the ground cover. By design you can eliminate one of the three pieces and still have a functioning tent. I eliminate the tent part as it is the heaviest and just travel with the fly and the ground cover, plus the poles of course. This means that I am protected from above and below and that wind flows all around me; I have not had any troubles with nosy critters. When it comes to the "where," it all depends. I have only ever used one bona-fide camp site, in Espinal. It is superb, and have gone back with the family in tow when I was doing a research camino. It is technically off the camino but on the road and going there does not add anything to the journey. When I get to Pamplona I pay a visit to the post office and mail it ahead to León, there are plenty of beds before Astorga and the extra weight was never of interest to me until then. That said, I was always on the lookout for a place to camp and there are certainly plenty. Some bullet points: [LIST] [*]If you use the post, pay attention to the calendar. Sundays are no good, and sometimes Saturdays too. León is a handy place if you ask me. In my list of essential packing items I include a sharpie marker. Write you name all big like on the box and snap a picture of it if you have a camera. [*]Many albergues will allow you to camp on the grounds if you ask politely. I always offer to pay for a bed to cover my consumption of the utilities while there, this goes over well and supports the economy. I shower later than the usual crowd and by then the hot water tanks are full again. If you want a warm shower in Spain you better be first or very much last. [*]Two of my favorite locations are the CSJ albergue in Rabanal, and the horse stables that are underneath the municipal albergue in Pedrouzo (though I don't believe you can use these anymore). I have also camped near Rosario just before Palais de Rei (sometimes gets bizarre late night teenage car traffic, probably less of a problem on weekdays), Portomarin (excellent park), Barbadelo many times (excellent park and quiet at night), Cebreiro (windy). Ligonde is another location. When in Finisterre I always spend a night in the sand. [*]If you are the kind to go to bed before the sun, avoid church yards. The bells continue to toll until 11pm in most towns and will very likely stop your heart if you are not expecting them. I am looking at you Palais de Rei. For that matter, don't even try to steal a nap in a church yard. I am looking at you Obanos. [*]Respect private land. There is plenty of land to put down a small tent, and at dusk it might not seem like a big deal. By morning you could very well realize the uncomfortable way that you are on grazing land. No matter what, clean up after yourself. [*]Keep your documents safe and accessible. I was abruptly woken by the Guardia Civil one night in a manner not unlike something you might see on TV. Lots of lights and yelling and one very confused pilgrim. They had no problem whatsoever when they learned I was a pilgrim. They were, in fact, on the lookout for illegal immigrants. It was terrifying at the time but put a big grin on my face by morning. [*]Avoid unnecessary attention. If you put up a tent at 6pm, no matter where you put it, someone will come along very soon to toss around words like gringo and rubio. There will be head shaking and finger waving. You have not done anything wrong, but by putting down steaks you invited public opinion. Better would be to wait until near dusk, or at least closer to bed time. [/LIST] That is the thing about camping. Perhaps it is because of nighttime police raids, or bed wetting bells, or because you avoid the rat race to get a bed, or because you sleep right past the noisy wakeup routine of the albergues, but you always set off in the morning refreshed and with a smile. You will sleep later, typically, and therefor fall into a different rhythm than the other pilgrims. You could very well walk alone for a bit. I never camped exclusively, nor to save money, but rather for the peace and freedom it allowed me to enjoy the last week of the camino. If you can handle the extra weight of a tent and like life spicy I say go for it. [/QUOTE]
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