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Crowded Camino in the Holy Year?
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[QUOTE="LTfit, post: 55137, member: 8594"] Thanks Falcon for the statistics on July 22nd. Returned back to The Netherlands on Tuesday (via Finisterre) but arrived in Santiago on the 22nd so I am that "1" in 1,541 :D !!! As I arrived early into Santiago (around 8.00a.m.) I almost immediately got into the Pilgrim's office once it opened up at 9. I just placed by back-pack in line and went off for a Cola-Cao and pan tostada. Up until O Cebreiro I had NO PROBLEMS finding a bed. Got the last bed in Estella one time when arrived at the Municipal at 4 p.m. but otherwise easy sailing. The "Camino Train" as I called it started the moment I stepped into Galicia and arrived in O Cebreiro. What a rude awakening!!!! From July 3rd leaving SJPdP up until then I had been able to walk HOURS upon HOURS alone (walked also in the afternoon which was even quieter). I arrived in O Cebreiro on a Sunday July 18th (full of tourists + peligrinos/as) at 4 p.m. and there was not a bed ANYWHERE. I thought that I had landed on another planet. The following 3 nights would be the same. In fact I only regained the "peace" I had experience prior to Galicia when I walked to Finisterre. I was determined to walk my Camino as I had done up until O Cebreiro. Which meant walking as long as I felt good, rest when I wanted and have faith that I would find a place to sleep - albeit not always comfortable! Here is how it went: July 18: O Cebreiro. Slept in the portico or entrance to the church with 8 pelegrinos/as on cardboard boxes. As I only had a silk liner a Spanish gentleman gave me his mat and a German woman gave me one of those emergency blankets. Given that we were huddled together I was able to stay warm. The muncipal auberge was charging euro 5 to shower which I refused. A picture of the lines of Pelegrinos/as was on the front page of the Galician papers the following day. July 19: Sarria. Yes, another full house. The hospitalero at the municipal auberge said to go to the police station. A Spaniard who had a bed at the auberge had overheard my conversation and when I stepped outside to head for the police station was stopped by his group of friends eating lunch and they said, "pull up a seat, have lunch with us and we will get you into the auberge - don't worry!!! And they did. They took my backpack in and I walked into the auberge in the evening as if I belonged there and slept on the floor on one of their mats. July 20: Os Chacotes (1 cm before Palas de Rei) Same story no room there nor at Palas de Rei nor in the following town. As I had already walked around 46 km continuing on to Melide was not an option. I asked if could sleep on the floor (not allowed). Was pissed-off by this time and said (luckily speak Spanish) that I thought that it was a disgrace that Galicia was not providing sufficient beds or tents, etc. for the overflow. Got chatting with a Galician woman and her husband who were also looking for a bed. She agreed with me totally and I don't know how but she organized that we all got mattresses on the floor of an auxillary building. Her name was Maria (do I need to say more???). July 21 Pedrouza/Arca. Long day 49 km. Arrived in Arzua at 12 and as auberge full town was to open a gym at 4 pm. Didn't feel like waiting so walked on. Santa Irene was small so also full and would not allow anyone to sleep on the floor. She said that a gym was being opened up in Pedrouza/Arca and that there were mattresses available. This was true but only for the lucky few who were early. The prospect of sleeping on the hard floor without a mat and only a liner was a bit troubling but I asked a French couple who had a mattress if I could use one of their mats. Luckily that was no problem. Sleeping with hundreds on people on the hard floor was something else. Needless to say I did not have a restful sleep and in fact woke up every hour and so...did the craziest thing thus far on the Camino: I got up at 2.40 a.m. and walked to Santiago ALONE! Wow, what an experience. I literally walked 5 hours in the dark. Got to Montes de Goza and descended into Santiago when it was just becoming light. I am SO GLAD that I did that. It was so amazing finishing off in peace! That changed within the next few hours but that was o.k. So yes, the Holy Year was busy during the last few days but before Galicia and after Santiago was just wonderful. In fact many a store-keeper complained that this year was quieter than last! [/QUOTE]
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