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🇪🇸 Routes in Spain
🇪🇸 Camino PRIMITIVO (Oviedo - Melide)
Late July 2021 Primitivo!
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[QUOTE="NadineK, post: 941503, member: 32989"] Greetings from the Primitivo! It’s a rainy and foggy and rather cool evening, the perfect chance to drop in here and give a quick update. I thought I would try to do a few live posts, because those were so helpful to me in getting ready to come to Spain, especially this year. I flew in from the United States, a direct flight from Newark to Madrid, earlier this week. The traveling felt straightforward; I was able to check in before arriving at the airport, didn’t have a bag to check, the flight was fine (no one seated in front of or behind me, which was nice), everyone masked the whole time, except to eat. When I got to Spain, that part felt easy too- I got my QR code loaded up on my phone, had it scanned, and walked right in. There was a form to fill out with questions relating to COVID and info on where I would be staying, and I showed that at passport control, but it was only glanced at and handed back to me (I’m not entirely sure what the purpose was?) Then a long bus ride to Oviedo (again, everyone masked and it seemed like maybe no eating was allowed?), and finally to my albergue, the new one right by the cathedral: La Hospederia Oviedo. Most people walking around Oviedo were masked, and the albergue was a masked space, too, except for sleeping. I decided to reserve here for a few reasons: I’ve stayed at the Albergue de Peregrinos de El Salvador before, and like it well enough, but I thought with all my traveling it might be nice to be close to the cathedral. Plus, I didn’t know what pilgrim numbers would be like and thought that private albergues might have smaller rooms, fewer numbers. I should have remembered that the Albergue de Peregrinos is big, with lots of bunk rooms, and a report from a pilgrim I met the next day confirmed that pilgrims were spaced out all over; he’d gotten a room to himself. But the new albergue was fun to try, though it comes at a hefty price of 20 euros. This includes a very basic breakfast that is self-serve (so you can eat and leave in the morning at any time), AND a towel! The towel was pretty great. Otherwise, it’s a small place, with a little outdoor terrace where you can dry clothes and eat, and one private lofted room, three showers. What you’re really paying for is location, the albergue is a stone’s throw from the cathedral. And I mean that literally: if you have a decent arm, you could stand in the cathedral square and throw a stone and hit the albergue. You get a key to enter the albergue (otherwise the door remains locked), and there was some street noise being in such a central spot. But all things considered, I think this could be a nice option for future pilgrims wanting some Camino spirit but VERY close to all the Oviedo action. My first day’s walk started in the rain and ended in unexpected sunshine (I thought I was in for a miserable weather day but it was actually quite beautiful!). I walked all the way to the Monasterio de San Salvador in Cornellana, which by my count, clocked in at 39km. Really, a bit too much for my first day- by the end my feet were hurting and a small blister developed on the side of my toe. But I really wanted to stay at the monastery and didn’t quite have the time or inclination to do a couple of small stages to start. And what a stay! 7 euros, very COVID conscious- masks worn at all times but sleeping and eating, they decided to open the kitchen for pilgrims to use, but handed out plastic plates and cutlery and cups for each person. There were only four of us there the night I stayed, and we were spaced out between three bunk rooms. A great meal with even better company; when it started to rain the hospitalera insisted we put our laundry into the dryer so it wouldn’t be wet the next day, and she brought over small bottles of Asturian cider after dinner. Also, I might have experienced a ghost that night? I was sound asleep and woke up to a very loud noise- a banging, or like something very heavy being dropped. Silence, then another very loud noise. I couldn’t tell where it was coming from- not in the room, but it could have been above, or the room behind mine, or next to mine? I was wide awake and suddenly remembered reading something about ghosts stories from this monastery- I think it was this monastery? I got a weird feeling and curled up tight, telling myself that under absolutely no circumstances would I get out of my bed until morning. I thought I heard someone moving- was it another pilgrim, or my ghost? Later I scanned through a few forum posts and found one from Princess Kaguya, sharing her own Cornellana ghost story. I’ve always been convinced that ghosts tend to leave me alone because they know I would be too scared, and so have never had any sort of experience like this before. Maybe they were trying to tell me I’d walked too far that day. In any case, I loved staying there, ghost and all! I’m in La Espina today, at Albergue El Texu. There are four of us here, and I have my own room. They’re doing a communal meal, and provide breakfast- all donativo. So many people stop in Bodenaya (for good reason!) but this albergue is just a km or so further down the way and is another wonderful option. I’m booking ahead for all of my lodging; I booked the first 5 nights before I left home, and will take care of the rest while I’m here. The three other pilgrims with me in Cornellana all had to walk further than planned to that day because they couldn’t find a bed in Grado (or, they couldn’t find pilgrim specific accommodation), and mostly the advice is to reserve, reserve, reserve. It’s a different way for me to do a Camino- usually I have a rough sense of what my stages might like, but I never reserve and just go with my feeling for the day. It’s something I love about the Camino but to be here at all, now, is such a blessing that I will whole-heartedly reserve. And, it’s kind of nice to not have to worry about where I’m going to sleep or if there will be enough beds! Last thoughts: the Camino Primitivo feels quiet, very quiet. It could be that not many pilgrims started when I started, and I’m sure it wasn’t helped by my “off stage” walk today… but I haven’t seen a single other pilgrim today! And really just 5 or 6 on my walk yesterday. But I’ve found places to stop for my (multiple) café con leches, there’s so much kindness from the locals, great Camino connections when I do see other pilgrims, and the yellow arrows are still here. This is a long post and I’ll try to keep future posts more succinct. Please ask questions and I’ll try to answer if and when I can! Buen Camino! [ATTACH]105582[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]105583[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]105584[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]105590[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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