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🇫🇷 Routes in France
🇫🇷 Voie de VÉZELAY (Vézelay - Ostabat)
Limoges to Santiago; experiences and thoughts
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[QUOTE="JanusDT, post: 1051054, member: 102836"] New update: My back and my mind are getting calibrated to the camino. I feel better by the day. During my walk to Sainte-Foy-la-Grande the fog of the fire in Gironde blocked the sun: it was therefore cooler than predicted. Also you could smell the burning wood. In Sainte-Foy-la-Grande I stayed in an albergue that was run my the church, for 12 euro. The space was super nice and big, the bed was also good. There was no dinner or breakfast included so I made my own. Omelet with vegetables, bread with olive spread, fruit; for both. The next day I walked subsequently to Saint Ferme and today to La Réole. Both walks were trough endless fields of wineyards. Not a lot of shade but fortunately the weather was better (cooler) than the days before. Saint-Ferme is a super small village but with a beautiful church. I stayed in a municipal refugee as the only pelgrimage. The hospitalero did not speak English so communication was a bit awkward, but he made wonderful dinner (3 courses). There was also breakfast, which was okay, but I noticed France has no breakfast-culture: generally it is quite scanty with coffee (in a bowl!) and toast with butter. At the moment I am staying in a wonderfull hostel in Reole, Amañi Hostel, which opened 2 months ago. It is super nice and I recommend it to future pelgrims. As it is so new it is not yet in the camino guides. La Reole is good, also it feels good to be in a place with some 'aliveness' and people around. This is not common on the Vezelay which generally crosses a lot of deserted/very small villages (besides beautiful nature/which is of course also one of the charmes of the 'lonely' vezelay). Now, because of the fire in France it is not allowed to walk a big part of the Vezelay: the part that is still ahead of me. On top of that I feel a lot of timepressure to reach Santiago before my deadline in September. For both these reasons I decided to not continue the Voie de Vezelay but instead travel tomorrow to SJLDP which gives me around 40 days to finish the camino Frances. It feels a bit like a failure, but at the same time it's a relief. Also, this means that this topic is no longer relevant. Generally, I experienced the Vezelay route as beautiful, chocking, and lonely. Beautiful because you pass diverse and gorgeous nature, cute villages and amazing cities. Chocking because I come from the Netherlands so i am not used to the low population density (sometimes literaly no houses in miles of walking), the deserted and decaying villages (boarded up or collapsed vacant houses, no bars/restaurants/shops), and the dogs I sometimes encountered (which in the end scared me less). Lonely because not many pelgrims walk the Vezelay and the ones that do generally speak French. I can see how the loneliness of the Vezelay could be good for internal reflection or meditation. For me it got better day by day. However, for me the loneliness and cultureshock were a bit too overwhelming and I at the moment still have not calmed these initial fears. That's why I am happy to start the Frances, with more people and infrastructure. [/QUOTE]
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