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Lindsey’s Belorado to Sarria Adventures (Camino Frances Part II)
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[QUOTE="Lhollo, post: 1034107, member: 93672"] The walk to Burgos from Agès felt like I was in a different country to the previous day, largely because the weather has suddenly shifted to being colder. We headed into a slightly misty Atapuerca, threading through a beautiful field of what seemed to be Lupins. I noticed most people were wearing long trousers and jackets whereas I was in shorts and a tank top! I was fine though, but did put on some wrist warmers and put my buff around my head. My ears and fingers are the worst when it comes to cold. The climb up from Atapuerca was atmospheric, entering the low trees with mist around. The cross at the top was cloudy. I was mindful of the battle there in 1054. I wonder how that played out, whether the trees were then so low, the rocky ground problematic for people in chainmail, or for their horses. The place seems a combination of wild and fresh yet, yesterday, chilly, and it was hard not to think it was also hushed with unspoken stories. I was very struck by the soundscape again, mostly skylarks! We stopped for coffee and Neopolitanas in Cardeñeula Riopico. Many pilgrims gathered there around this time, 9:30am. A village later and after the overpass, we took the left turn, to use the river detour into Burgos. Last year, we spent a night in the city at the end of our ‘Camino Part One’, and the next day had a long walk out through the suburbs. I didn’t want to repeat that, particularly knowing how pleasant the area by the river and cathedral is. I had a feeling that Burgos might open up to me more this time, somehow… now that I’m a proper pilgrim and entered on foot! 😃 All of the pilgrims ahead of us went straight on and missed the turn for the river route, or chose not to do it. Some of those after us seemed surprised we’d turned off—the turn currently isn’t marked, and the first part of the path has construction hazard signs along it—but others then turned and we saw them some way behind us. I noticed the Buen Camino app one isn’t as good as the Wise Pilgrim one, which follows a longer section of river. Either way, I really can’t recommend the river detour enough, albeit I imagine I’m talking to the converted here! Does anyone not prefer it? We arrived in Burgos at 12:30 and spent some time resting before going around the cathedral; that had been another part of Burgos that was ‘closed off’ to us last year when we weren’t ‘real pilgrims’ 😃. What a stunning cathedral it is! I particularly enjoyed seeing the tomb of El Cid, having been genning up on his history recently. We ate at Bonfin on the plaza Rey San Fernando: the only place serving a menu of the day at 6:30pm, or anything other than tapas or fast food. We sometimes simply can’t do the Spanish ‘eat when you arrive then just have something light later’ because… there are things to do at the room, and then cathedrals to see. And I’ve rarely seen all the Spanish people eating huge meals in the middle of the day! I think they’re a myth! We’ve talked with a few other pilgrims but we’re aware that those we’ve got to know most will now stop in Burgos for a day, whereas our first rest day will be in León, so I expect we’ll now meet a group of new pilgrims… when we finally get on the road to Hornillos. More about that in a moment…! We walked up to the Solar del Cid… I thought it a curious monument to the likely site of his house, being a series of bollards around three monument stones with heraldic shields at the top, the central one being El Cid’s. On the way back to the hotel we saw a stork nesting at the top of the Arco de Fernán Gonzalez. I was surprised to come across both the stork and the Arch, because it’s simply a facade with nothing around it and seems incongruous. A couple of times, I saw a baby stork (a storkling?!) pop it’s head up a little over the rim of the nest. Last thing last night, my partner went to get cash out at the Santander cash point just down from the Santa Maria gate, on the river section, and the machine swallowed his card. I spoke with someone inside the bank (amazed they’re still staffed at 9pm!) and we’ve been told we can get it back at 9am. So… it’ll be a late start for us when we head off for Hornillos del Camino. At least we won’t hit it in scorching weather, now that it’s quite chilly. The only other news is that I have quite a badly chafed hip, which I don’t understand at all because I have the same clothes, same backpack, almost the same load, and am the same shape and size as every other time I’ve used the backpack including the Camino Part 1… so why on earth I now have a partly raw hip is beyond me. For want of a better solution, I’ve been using cream I was given at a pharmacy for leg/ankle chafing last year, and whacked a comped on it. I know compeed often aren’t good solutions for blisters, but they’ve helped protect chafed areas for me in the past. So… fingers crossed. [ATTACH type="full" alt="2F4DB6B8-866E-42BE-837C-7155C42A5963.jpeg"]126185[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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