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Lindsey’s Belorado to Sarria Adventures (Camino Frances Part II)
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[QUOTE="Lhollo, post: 1035512, member: 93672"] At Población de Campos, we took the alternative route to avoid the road. I was in a vaguely ridiculous mood. Singing as we went along and generally happy as an elf. We’d been in a long line of pilgrims but only two were on this alternative stretch with us. We thought it a lovely stretch: quiet, except for the sound of the trees, skylarks, our feet. After a while, we saw more pilgrims behind us. At Villovieco, we turned into the town, imagining we might find a cafe open near the plaza mayor, but we walked right through it to the church of Santa Maria at the far side, finding nothing. We stopped to take off layers (it seems incredible given the heat now that I was still wearing a down jacket then) and put on sun screen. On the way out of the village, we spotted the haven that is El Chiringuito de Villovieco, so we stopped there for cafes con leche, and my partner had a hot dog too. We kept on along the alternative route, following the line of poplars and the little river Ucieza past Villarmentero de Campos, until the turn by the Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Rio (I love imagined the bells there ringing of their own accord when the relics of St Martin arrived, as per the legend) which led us into Villalcázar de Sirga. Two things here: first, the lovely cafe opposite the cathedral of Santa Moria de Blanca—what a lovely place, and many pilgrims all gathering there, plus the Camerero was wearing a La Casa de Papel T-Shirt of which I greatly approved 😃, and secondly, the cathedral itself. What an amazing, special place. I talked for quite a while with the lady in attendance there, and her passion for the importance of the building, place and it’s history was very apparent. I could imagine passing a very pleasant night in this small town, and was struck by the cleanliness, brightness and number of facilities. And then there was the long road section to Carrion de los Condes. I actually rather enjoyed this part, but imagine it must have been quite a monotonous day for those pilgrims who stuck to the road earlier on. Perhaps they saw things I can’t know about, though. Either way, it was pleasant to have a simple stretch, and to feel part of a procession of pilgrims as far as the eye could see in both directions, all heading into the town. That’s something I haven’t yet mentioned. As I think is evident from this forum, the Camino is *busy*, although never overwhelmingly so. I find we’re rarely alone, in the sense that there’s almost always another pilgrim or two in sight, and often many more. I like this, though, because we’re getting to know people through seeing them repeatedly, probably more than we did last year, and also often meeting new faces. Carrión de los Condes itself is a gem, isn’t it? We stayed at the Hostel La Corte, right opposite the entrance side of the Santa Maria church, and I’d really recommend their rooms. They went out of their way not only to give me the extra pillows I’d enquired about many at months ago, but to put them in my room so they were ready for me, and tell me about it so I didn’t need to ask. These little things are just so lovely. We spent the afternoon resting then walking around the town, and seeing the exhibitions of statues and art relating to the Virgin Mary in both churches. Dinner was at La Cerve, which was recommended to us by the lady at the lovely deli next door. The fact she suggested it and used the word ‘casero’ was all I needed to hear! It was wonderful! I had a massive Caesar salad with patatas bravas. I’ve been craving more fresh salad, fruit and veg for a while so this was perfect. …And I’m still behind by one day. I’m going to skip ahead by missing out some detail where there’s relatively little…. [/QUOTE]
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