Live from the Camino - Churches are closed

[Mamarich]

Hi I started walking from Pamplona on Tuesday. I arrived Arco today. Seeking insights please. I’ve been trying to into the churches and for the most part they are closed. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

 

[JabbaPapa]

Fewer priestly vocations leads directly to greater numbers of closed churches.

 

[mspath]

For more information re Catholic mass on the camino see this earlier thread. To help with your planning here is a Google Map of Parishes/Churches along the camino where you might attend mass.

 

[dougfitz]

It is sometimes possible to find a local who is able to open up the church, but I have only seen that in just a few places. Otherwise, it is the reality that in many places the churches stayed locked when not in use by the local community.

 

[Tincatinker]

There will usually be a notice posted giving Mass times ( and dates. In smaller villages mass may be monthly). It may be worth asking a local and, for the more historic places there’ll likely be a key-holder who’ll grant you access and show you around. Churches are usually locked to prevent theft of artifacts and other abuses. The same applies to many church premises in the UK and probably elsewhere

 

[jungleboy]

You are not doing anything wrong. Unfortunately, a lot of churches are closed much of the time, especially in small villages. You’re in Los Arcos? If so, there is a fabulous church coming up tomorrow in Torres del Rio that will be open if you’re not too early (because it charges a fee) — Santo Sepulcro. Enjoy!

 

[David]

Shortage of priests so most rural priests run a few churches rather than one.

Los Arcos church is open for the evening Mass (from 7pm I think) and the morning one too. The incumbent is a wonderful man, and holds a pilgrim blessing, handing out pilgrim prayer cards in various languages that he had printed, after the evening Mass - it is a beautiful church too!

The world has changed ... it is not as it once was ... an open empty church can now be a target for both vandals and thieves, sadly.

 

[Pafayac]

If you walk on the caminos in France, you will find many opened churches.
My point of view is that the difference comes from secularism:
- In France, since 1905, most of the churches belong to the municipalities. This is possible for the mayor, with the agreement of the priest, to find one person to keep the keys of the church, open it on every morning, and close it on every evening.
- In Spain, churches belong to the Church: probably it is not so easy to find people for taking responsibility of this buildings (which often contains precious things). Perhaps the Church is not very fond of having them visited by tourists or pilgrims...

 

[Mamarich]

You are not doing anything wrong. Unfortunately, a lot of churches are closed much of the time, especially in small villages. You’re in Los Arcos? If so, there is a fabulous church coming up tomorrow in Torres del Rio that will be open if you’re not too early (because it charges a fee) — Santo Sepulcro. Enjoy!

Thanks any insights on timing for entering I am open to paying a fee.

 

[Mamarich]

Shortage of priests so most rural priests run a few churches rather than one.

Los Arcos church is open for the evening Mass (from 7pm I think) and the morning one too. The incumbent is a wonderful man, and holds a pilgrim blessing, handing out pilgrim prayer cards in various languages that he had printed, after the evening Mass - it is a beautiful church too!

The world has changed ... it is not as it once was ... an open empty church can now be a target for both vandals and thieves, sadly.

Thanks I was able to get in around mass time. I’d didn’t feel like they were actually holding mass. Signage indicated it opened at 530 but was closer to 7 when it actually opened.

 

[nathanael]

Fewer priestly vocations leads directly to greater numbers of closed churches.

sorry, but it takes more than a priest to open the church doors. Why doesn't the municipality make it possible to have churches open by a lay person?

 

[Steven Dwyer]

I always tried to get into the churches I was passing, and most times failed. There were a few that were open with a lay person watching over the place. Navarette was one I found that was open every time I visited.

 

[oursonpolaire]

sorry, but it takes more than a priest to open the church doors. Why doesn't the municipality make it possible to have churches open by a lay person?

Owing to decades of theft, the insurance companies are very firm about keeping the church locked when not in use. Churches are not owned by the municipalities and are therefore not their responsibility-- Spanish politics makes it even more complicated.

In my experience churches along the Francese are normally open at about a quarter to 7 when parishioners say the rosary before the evening mass. As well, there is almost always a keyholder available, and the hospitalero/ barkeeper/ neighbour of the church will know who it is. It is considered couth to tip the keyholder a few euro.

 

[Tincatinker]

sorry, but it takes more than a priest to open the church doors. Why doesn't the municipality make it possible to have churches open by a lay person?

Great idea and perhaps the same person could be responsible for maintaining the Portaloos that the Municipality should install as well...

 

[jalluisi]

Thanks I was able to get in around mass time. I’d didn’t feel like they were actually holding mass. Signage indicated it opened at 530 but was closer to 7 when it actually opened.

Glad you were able to attend.

 

[DBC]

Shortage of priests so most rural priests run a few churches rather than one.

Los Arcos church is open for the evening Mass (from 7pm I think) and the morning one too. The incumbent is a wonderful man, and holds a pilgrim blessing, handing out pilgrim prayer cards in various languages that he had printed, after the evening Mass - it is a beautiful church too!

The world has changed ... it is not as it once was ... an open empty church can now be a target for both vandals and thieves, sadly.

Agree - Los Arcos mass was a great experience with a small group of pilgrims.

 

[JesperK]

Shortage of priests so most rural priests run a few churches rather than one.

Los Arcos church is open for the evening Mass (from 7pm I think) and the morning one too. The incumbent is a wonderful man, and holds a pilgrim blessing, handing out pilgrim prayer cards in various languages that he had printed, after the evening Mass - it is a beautiful church too!

The world has changed ... it is not as it once was ... an open empty church can now be a target for both vandals and thieves, sadly.

That it's beautiful is putting it mildly. I remember once I went inside los arcos church and a mass was about to begin. Not used to catholic churches I saw a balcony and thought it would be a perfect place to sit. Turned out to be the place where the choir sat, so when they arrived they looked very weird at me. I quickly snug out out again.

 

[Mamarich]

Owing to decades of theft, the insurance companies are very firm about keeping the church locked when not in use. Churches are not owned by the municipalities and are therefore not their responsibility-- Spanish politics makes it even more complicated.

In my experience churches along the Francese are normally open at about a quarter to 7 when parishioners say the rosary before the evening mass. As well, there is almost always a keyholder available, and the hospitalero/ barkeeper/ neighbour of the church will know who it is. It is considered couth to tip the keyholder a few euro.

Thanks so much this is very helpful! I was able to get into a church today and am going to try the 645 trick today. Appreciate the insight to tipping as well.

 

[FrJimKingcsc]

It won't help getting into one you're walking by in the morning when it doesn't open until evening but you can also check horariodemisas.com (in Spanish) for Mass times anywhere in Spain to scout out when the churches would be open.

 

[seanmcauley]

Hi I started walking from Pamplona on Tuesday. I arrived Arco today. Seeking insights please. I’ve been trying to into the churches and for the most part they are closed. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

I am walking LePuy and thankfully all churches are open.

 

[David Tallan]

sorry, but it takes more than a priest to open the church doors. Why doesn't the municipality make it possible to have churches open by a lay person?

Some do. When we stayed in the albergue in Bendueños they left the key to the church with the first pilgrim to check in so that we could all visit the church.
We found this in a back room behind the where the altar and retablo was:

 

[JZA]

Hi I started walking from Pamplona on Tuesday. I arrived Arco today. Seeking insights please. I’ve been trying to into the churches and for the most part they are closed. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

Just arrived in SdC. I have also noticed that there are fewer volunteers there to stamp your Pilgrim passport. It’s not just the priests that are getting fewer.

 

[Bradypus]

Just arrived in SdC. I have also noticed that there are fewer volunteers there to stamp your Pilgrim passport. It’s not just the priests that are getting fewer.

With the new computerised Compostela system the pilgrim office seems to be handling the numbers of arrivals very efficiently. People have been reporting waiting times of just a few minutes. Would having more volunteers in the office with nothing much to do improve matters?

 

[JZA]

With the new computerised Compostela system the pilgrim office seems to be handling the numbers of arrivals very efficiently. People have been reporting waiting times of just a few minutes. Would having more volunteers in the office with nothing much to do improve matters?

I was referring to the number of open churches on the Portuguese Camino. Not made it around to the Pilgrim Office yet but I agree, I have found the new system fast and efficient.
On this journey I have noticed a lot of churches where previously I could have gotten a stamp but now closed. The church in Padron was a happy exception as it is my favourite.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

In Castilla y Leon there's an Open Churches program that has many camino chapels and churches open for at least 2 hours a day, staffed by locals. Sadly, it's only July, August, and part of September, and usually the open hours are not those with greatest pilgrim flow. (designed by desk-jockeys).
Our village, Moratinos, has participated in this program for more than 10 years. Even when we're open during hours of maximum pilgrim traffic, it's a good day when 10% of them stop in for a sello. Maybe half of those go inside to see the sanctuary.
If you stay in Moratinos, ask your hospitalero about who has the church key.

 

[Chizuru]

Great idea and perhaps the same person could be responsible for maintaining the Portaloos that the Municipality should install as well...

In France on the Podiensis almost all of the churches were open and there were municipal toilets in almost every town. I think that over 400kms I only needed to have a wild toilet stop on 3 occasions and only had 2 churches that were closed. So different from Camino Frances. Mind you, there were very few cafes on the Podiensis open or otherwise to be able to use the loos!

 

[Camino Chrissy]

In France on the Podiensis almost all of the churches were open.

That was my experience as well.

 

[mlanuke]

Hi I started walking from Pamplona on Tuesday. I arrived Arco today. Seeking insights please. I’ve been trying to into the churches and for the most part they are closed. What am I doing wrong? Thanks

We found that a lot on the Camino Primitivo as well. Very disappointing when the trek is supposed to be a pilgrimage. Didn’t find out a reason and would be most interested in knowing why…

 

[David Tallan]

We found that a lot on the Camino Primitivo as well. Very disappointing when the trek is supposed to be a pilgrimage. Didn’t find out a reason and would be most interested in knowing why…

I think it is because there aren't as many people following the vocation into the priesthood in Spain as there used to be so there aren't the people to staff all of the churches being open all of the time. A single priest will have a circuit of churches and perform mass at different churches on different days. The churches open when the priest is there to conduct the mass. Sometimes there is a local person with the keys to the church and, if you can find a local to ask, they might be able to point you to the right person,

 

[JZA]

I think it is because there aren't as many people following the vocation into the priesthood in Spain as there used to be so there aren't the people to staff all of the churches being open all of the time. A single priest will have a circuit of churches and perform mass at different churches on different days. The churches open when the priest is there to conduct the mass. Sometimes there is a local person with the keys to the church and, if you can find a local to ask, they might be able to point you to the right person,

I think this is right. Not only are there fewer priests there are reducing ageing congregations, so fewer volunteers. In my village in the south of England the vicar was running four churches until he resigned (with no replacement) and ALL the church wardens are older than me, and I am 70. Until recently the parish magazine was delivered by a lady on a mobility scooter.

 

[mlanuke]

I think it is because there aren't as many people following the vocation into the priesthood in Spain as there used to be so there aren't the people to staff all of the churches being open all of the time. A single priest will have a circuit of churches and perform mass at different churches on different days. The churches open when the priest is there to conduct the mass. Sometimes there is a local person with the keys to the church and, if you can find a local to ask, they might be able to point you to the right person,

Thank you for your insight, David. Sad state of churches everywhere I think. i followed the Camino with visits to various relatives in the UK, and several of them said their parish only has about 20 people or families And services in that parish rotate between 4 parishes over a month.

As many of the communities are very small as well, I imagine it is difficult to get steady volunteers to open the churches. Very sad for those of us for whom the trek has real meaning as a pilgrimage…