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My first Camino: reflecting on my journey so far.
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[QUOTE="LuisaR, post: 1062937, member: 103223"] [B]Day 25: Sahagún to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, 13.6km[/B] I was keen to walk a longer distance today, but as I was taking the alternative route to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, it wasn’t easy to go further than that in one day: once leaving Calzadilla, you’re facing a 17.8km stretch of Roman Road, which can be quite challenging terrain with no shade, bar stops or fountains - I didn’t really fancy this on a hot afternoon! Due to the shorter distance, I tried really hard to leave Sahagún a little later than usual but was unsuccessful; I’m naturally an early riser and my instinct on the Camino was always to get up and get going, which usually resulted in arriving to my final destination very early! I did manage to leave when it was actually light for a change, and was greeted by drunk night-owls wishing me a ‘Buen Camino’. I noticed that I was trailing behind an American man who had been staying in the same accommodations as me for the past couple of nights, but who I hadn’t really spoken to. On the way out of Sahagún, I heard some singing coming from a church so popped in briefly to hear a few nuns rehearsing some sacred song. The quality wasn’t great but it was still moving to see! There was only one stop before my final destination today and I planned to have a leisurely breakfast, but when I reached Calzada Del Coto - a rather sterile, modern and deserted town - nothing was open. I noticed that I was the only one turning off onto the alternative route to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos which made me rather anxious! By taking this route, I would be walking along one of the best preserved stretch of Roman Road in Spain on the following day, but that didn’t seem to appeal to the masses! I walked along a dusty, bumpy shadeless path for over an hour without seeing anyone which gave me a good taste of what was to come tomorrow. On arriving into Calzadilla de los Hermanillos, I sat on a bench outside the one and only village shop which was tiny and only allowed 2 people in at a time. I watched people come and go, and eventually went in to buy a drink and some food. I wasn’t sure about the town - it was in the middle of nowhere, not particularly picturesque, and it was hard to fathom how people could live there! I was sitting outside the municipal albergue and chatted to an American lady who was volunteering there - she said she was disappointed with how few pilgrims stay - I think she felt a little redundant! I later met another volunteer from the Albergue and we chatted for a while. She said that there wasn’t any water as some maintenance was happening just behind the building - I was suddenly glad I wasn’t staying there…. I had booked myself into somewhere very extravagant and my most expensive stay on the Camino: Casa El Cura. It was a magnificent building, resembling a Canadian ranch. The owners were a man and wife - he was a chef and she ran the place - the most warm, funny and friendly people. I was the only one staying, so had their undivided attention! The decor was steeped in the ladies local family history: old farming tools, and so many old family photographs - it was like going back in time and absolutely fascinating. I chatted to the lady a lot about the village - apparently some people aren’t keen on pilgrims. There’s a wonderful bar and quite upmarket restaurant in the village where I’d had a beer that afternoon and I’d noticed the owner was a bit surly. The lady told me that he once caught a pilgrim with their feet in the restaurant bathroom sink and went crazy! I think that’s a story that the whole population of the village know…. The food at the hotel was glorious - the best I had on the whole camino - and there was a lot of it! The chef continuously brought me their homegrown food and topped up my wine glass far too many times. I had a bath in my room so was able to have a good soak and a wonderful nights sleep. If you are able to have one splurge on the Camino, Casa El Cura comes highly recommended! [/QUOTE]
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