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Camino Routes
🇪🇸 Routes in Spain
🇪🇸 Camino VIEJO (Pamplona - Aguilar del Campo)
Sheffield James on the Camino Viejo -- LOTS of good info!
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[QUOTE="Sheffield James, post: 623394, member: 23079"] Day 15 (Mon): Puente Almuhey- Cistierna (21kms) The first hour of the day was spent largely on country tracks, with the highlight being the passing of a small, perfectly-still lake, that made for great photographs of the reflections in the surface of the water. This was followed by carretera all the way to the Santuario de la Virgen de la Vellila, an imposing church, with what appeared to be a mix of architectural styles added over the centuries. A sign nearby indicated EU monies have been secured to fund a restoration of the building. The path behind the Sanctuary then rose steeply and steadily for a good few kilometres as it worked its way up and around the mountainside. The reward for all this effort was the absolutely magnificent mountain vista that opened up before our eyes when Xavier and I reached its highest point. A definite highlight - literally and metaphorically - of the Olvidado thus far! A slightly less-steep descent allowed the breathtaking views to be enjoyed for some considerable time, although there were a couple of occasions when we almost missed flechas that we needed to follow to ensure we took the path to Cistierna and not to some other village visible in the valley below. The glorious weather changed abruptly as we entered Cistierna. We had to take shelter from a fierce hailstorm and all the heat of the day quickly dissipated. I had contemplated pushing on an extra 10kms to the albergue at La Ercina, but I couldn’t get an answer from my telephone call and soon all my momentum was lost by this and the change in the weather. So, I decided I’d stay the night + give Xavier a proper send-off at the end of his week’s holiday on the camino trail. I stayed in the municipal albergue at the start of the town for €5. A number of contact numbers were listed on the front door and they responded quickly. The exterior looked a bit shabby, but inside it was clean and spacious and the hospitalero was very friendly. The French and Spanish walkers stayed there, too, as did another couple who were walking the Camino Vadiniense that passes through the town. Xavier reserved a room for €20 at nearby Hostel Moderno, where we enjoyed a €9 farewell evening menu and swapped pleasantries with members a local camino association who were also dining there. Tomorrow, I’d be walking solo again! Day 16 (Tues): Cistierna- Boñar (~28kms) Today will be remembered mostly for the kindness of strangers, but my first consideration of the day was to make sure I exited town on the right path. The Amigo hospitalero had explained I should take the carretera and then turn right on reaching the first camino marker. I followed his advice but could see no path close to the marker, and so I gave-up (too hastily perhaps), retraced my steps a short distance and took the road marked La Ercina (7kms). I didn’t want to walk the carretera, but I thought it wouldn’t be for long, and at least I’d be sure to head in the right direction. After 5kms, I saw yellow arrows in the village of Yugueros. They couldn’t have been linked to the Amigo’s advice, but it didn’t matter as I was now following an approved route. In La Ercina, it looked as if some re-routing had been undertaken on the lampposts, which made me uncertain about the direction I was now being asked to take. I asked a guy about the signs and his wife was called as she spoke English. Not only did she show great interest in this route unfamiliar to her, but I was invited into their home for some refreshments. Lala is a news journalist based in Madrid and Lasa is a retired French teacher. We talked about a wide-range of camino and non-camino subjects, drank several cups of coffee and easily lost track of how much time had passed since I’d arrived. On leaving, I was given a packet of biscuits and their contact details for when I’m next in Madrid. The yellow arrows that lead left after the first (only?) bar in La Ercina takes you down a curved street to what appears to be a dead-end. By turning into the field to the right of the garden of the very last house, it is just possible to make out a track that is the one follow. Soon, more arrows are visible. Seeing the French and Spanish pilgrims ahead gave me added confidence I was heading the right way. The track rose and fell alongside a newly installed gas pipeline and, increasingly, yellow and purple shrubs bordered the path. Initially, the three of us missed the turning for Acisa, which is surprising as it is the first obvious junction on this long stretch and the roofs of some of the houses can be made out in the valley below. Our arrival coincided with the arrival of the fish- and panaderia-vans, each competing with the other for the residents’ attention with their blaring horns. After Acisa, the route mixed a bit of on-road and off-road walking, with a handful of small villages evenly-spaced out that made the final section to Boñar seem surprisingly shorter than I expected. In La Devesa, I was approached by an ex-pat from Belgium who invited me to join her and her husband in the one open bar of the day. She insisted on buying me a few beers while we talked about the camino and her 35 years living in Spain. At one point, she enlisted half-a-dozen locals to offer their views on Boñar-La Robla-La Magdalena direct vs the Boñar-La Magdalena mountain route. Based on their volubly incredulous responses, it was clear the mountain route should be undertaken only... in a motor car!! As I left, she gave me her phone number in case I got into trouble in the mountains and she offered to drive me to Boñar to make up for the time I’d spent talking in the bar. For information, the generous offer of the lift was kindly declined. In the absence of an albergue in Boñar, I booked into Hotal Nisi, simply the first I saw of the two in town. I paid €25 for my room (with bath) and could have ordered dinner for an extra €10. The proprietor was very helpful with queries about accommodation on the mountain route, even going to the trouble of phoning an English-speaking friend to act as an intermediary. The consequence of all this is I’ve decided to take the mountain route tomorrow. I’m booked into a chalet in English-speaking Pablo’s campsite at Vegacervera for €10 + €2 for breakfast for the first night. I got no response from the Buiza, so fingers-crossed it will be open. Wish me suerte! [/QUOTE]
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