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🇪🇸 Routes in Spain
🇪🇸 Camino VIEJO (Pamplona - Aguilar del Campo)
Sheffield James on the Camino Viejo -- LOTS of good info!
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[QUOTE="Sheffield James, post: 625186, member: 23079"] Day 20 (Sat): La Magdalena - Fascar (~46kms) My accommodation was approximately 1km before La Magdalena, so after breakfast of the dreaded Churros, I walked to the town and then the short distance on to Canales. I must have missed an arrow directing me left once there because I was soon out of town and on the carretera towards Riello. When I realised this, I decided not to retrace my steps as I thought I’d make quicker progress this way, especially with the long day ahead of me. Even though I did manage to re-join the camino track shortly before Riello -at Oterico-, I think I saved a couple of kms and up to an hour in time compared to following the official path. Let’s put it down to serendipity! From Riello onward, the rest of the day was spent alternating between road and country tracks over largely flat terrain. The amount of road-walking was probably greater than that of the off-road sections, and this was exacerbated on two occasions when the tracks where impassable due to flooding. The day’s walk was characterised also by the number of villages on the route, often with just a few kms between them. Many had at least one bar, so it was easy to find refreshments when required. The final 15kms to Fascar passed through a lovely valley that seemed, to me, to go on forever. The village is so remote, I’d seriously consider it as a hideaway should I ever find myself on Interpol’s most wanted list! At one point, I lost sight of the arrows and found myself crossing fields close to the riverbank. While I knew that heading West would lead ultimately to my destination, I did get trapped - literally, on one occasion - by lots of barbed wire and electric fences. Sticking closer to the carretera would have been a safer course to follow. I’d arranged to stay at Rosi’s albergue (tel: 607027949), but she wasn’t around when I arrived. The French and Spanish pilgrims I’ve mentioned before were insIde with the only key, but they dIdn’t hear my knocking, and so quite a few of the locals in the bar next door mobilised themselves to help me gain entry. The excitement of that 15-20 minutes far exceeded anything served up later in the Real Madrid vs Liverpool Champions League Final. The albergue is modern with 10 beds and proper cotton sheets. There’s a kitchen with a microwave and coffeemaker(coffee supplied), but note there is nowhere to buy food in the village. Rosi lives elsewhere in the village, yet she’ll come and fInd you for the €8 charge and to stamp your credencial. Day 21 (Sun): Fascar -Igūeña (18.5kms) With no prospect of any food for almost 12kms, breakfast comprised Rosi’s coffee, some bread left by the aforementioned departed pilgrims, a carton of orange and a cereal bar. Come to think of it, it was a more satisfying desayuno than I’ve had on many previous mornings! The day’s walk began with a stiff -for me- mountain climb for an hour or so. The view at the highest point was truly spectacular, however: a panoramic view of the lush Campo de Santiago/Campo de Martin Moro valley with snow-fringed high mountains as its extensive backdrop. After dropping into the valley, the track worked its way through another long, steeply-sided, wooded valley with the fast-flowing Rio Boeza showing the way. The ground underfoot was very rocky, which slowed progress and, taken together with the earlier ascent, may well account for the comparatively short day in terms of kilometre distance. The path became more flat and even on the approach to Colinas del Campo, where sadly the only bar was closed. This meant another 7kms without a refreshment stop to complete the day’s stage. Once again, the woodland path tracked the valley bottom until it reached the small town of Igūeña. I paid for a bed in the modern Albergue del Catoute, situated just over the bridge after entering the town. The owners also run the Restaurante La Playa (tel: 987519517; 636968047; 629251182) directly across the road, from which the albergue is managed. My room had four beds and cost only €6 per person. Bed linen is provided, along with the expected bath and shower facilities. There is nowhere to hang clothes to dry, nor is there a kitchen or sitting room. The assumption must be that all rest and relaxation will be done in the bar. All in all, a muy bonito stage, made more so by the partial success of the sun’s efforts to shine on the route! [/QUOTE]
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