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Some random Camino observations
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[QUOTE="Richard Ray, post: 629045, member: 56660"] From my 2016 pilgrimage journal on this question: The villages on the Meseta typically don't appear until you're right on top of them, as they are tucked into valleys where the rivers flow. We found ourselves asking "Where is that village anyway?" And then there it would be. This was the case as Hornillos del Camino popped up like a Jack-in-the-Box. It seemed that we would have to walk off the edge of the horizon, declare our guidebook and its multicolored maps a fraud when the town finally showed up. As we walked down the [I]cuesta matamulas[/I] (mule-killing incline) into the valley we ran into Veronica - an older woman walking the wrong way for a pilgrim. We see so few people walking against the grain that when we do we reflexively stop for a chat to ensure that the person is not lost, confused, or just plain cuckoo. Veronica was perhaps 70. OK, that’s generous. She was 75 if she was a day. She was attired in flowing full length earth-toned robes. Except for the cowl and wimple, she could have been one of the Felician sisters burdened by God to serve as one of my teachers at Our Lady of Refuge parish school. She informed us that she’d walked the Camino six times. This is her last. Indeed, her record of pilgrimage is at least the equal of Chaucer’s Wife of Bath - she of The Canterbury Tales - who logged pilgrimages to Jerusalem, Rome, Bologna, Santiago de Compostela, and Cologne. In addition to Veronica’s Camino addiction, she’s also done pilgrimages to Jerusalem, Rome, Assisi, and several other places I can't recall now. To be fair to the Wife of Bath, she walked her pilgrimages - when she wasn’t losing her lunch over the side of a Venetian ship. Veronica had the benefit of airplanes. Still, her record is impressive. She wears a brooch from which hangs a badge for each of her pilgrimages. It was an impressive bit of hardware, and gave an almost military impression - not unlike a general’s chest full of campaign ribbons. Joe made a gentle inquiry as to her views on how the Camino has changed since her first experience so many decades earlier. With this invitation Veronica informed us in a rather strident tone that she is disappointed - bitterly so - with how crowded the Camino has become. The shameless increase in the number of hospitality establishments that have sprung up to support the pilgrims has stripped The Way of its original sense of rugged spiritual struggle and striving. Speaking of The Way, she railed against Martin Sheen and his film [I]The Way[/I] like a woman truly and utterly scorned. That movie, she declared, is the single greatest impetus for all of these tourists on walking holidays that now desecrate the pilgrimage to St. James. Terrible. Just as she got really cranked up she seemed to deflate a bit as if accepting the inevitable and her original calm reasserted itself. She wished us [I]buen camino[/I], pointed her wrinkled face toward the East, and tottered away up the path. While Veronica’s six Caminos may sound like a lot - and it certainly is - she is by no means the world record holder in this. A 13th century peregrino - the goldsmith Blessed Fazio of Cremona - made pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and Rome an amazing 18 times each. One wonders when he had time for goldsmithing. [/QUOTE]
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