Tabara short cut

[selbanev]

I'm looking to c0mplete the VdlP from Salamanca starting October 2/3. I wonder if anyone can share news, views, the latest intelligence, on the Tabara shortcut north of Montamarta? I'm in no hurry to get to Santiago, am not worried by a bit of road walking.

 

[Magwood]

Don't do it - look at what you'll be missing...

Granja de Moreruela to Tabara

 

[hel&scott]

I remember we debated this long and hard, in the end we went straight up the road to Tabara. As we had started in Seville, we had put in some pretty hard days and went with the straight forward option. I don't remember much about it, other then the albergue was on the other side of the village and it was a long walk back to the bar... Next year when I go back as I am starting in Salamanca I will go the other way (even though there will be no wild peony at that time of year). As the original route was flooded it's really a personal choice.

 

[hel&scott]

Oh yes, as you are starting in October it's worth noting it gets pretty cold and wet from Salamanca, pack your icebreaker merinos and you will be fine... Check out our blog as we went through this part of the Vpd in late September and conditions should be comparable...

 

[MileHighPair]

I did the road this spring. I don't think it was worth the time savings, and will NOT do it again, if I'm ever back there. I was told by others that the walk from Granja to Tabara was one of the most beautiful sections of the VdlP. Buen Camino! Mike.

 

[camino07]

Don't do it - look at what you'll be missing...

Granja de Moreruela to Tabara

Beautiful but not looking forward to repeating that narrow, rocky path right after the bridge. I almost had a panic attack in 2013 and will passing there again in September .

 

[LTfit]

The view after you get around the rocks (need to use hands over a very short section) is spectacular. Don't miss it!

But before you get that far you must see the Monasterio Cisterciense de Moreruela! It is in ruins but parts have been restored and is well worth the visit. Even if closed you just climb over a low stone wall and walk around. The two times I walked this section I stayed in Riego del Camino then walked to Tábara but you can take the detour also from Granja. Coming from Riego there is a dirt path to the left which takes you to the ruins. There are yellow arrows bringing you back to the Camino so you won't get lost. I am on my phone so can't upload a photo but Google it and you will see how lovely it is.

Do stay with José Almeida at the municipal in Tábara. He took the albergue over several years ago and turned it into a donativo with a communal dinner and breakfast.

And if someone decides to stay in Riego, I understand that two young women (English and Italian I believe) have recently started a new albergue. This is great news as the town could use a boost.

 

[hel&scott]

And if someone decides to stay in Riego, I understand that two young women (English and Italian I believe) have recently started a new albergue. This is great news as the town could use a boost.

Yes, it's called Casa Camino, and there is apparently a "riotous cafe, Bar Pepe, which does food of varying quality." I am reading this out of the Gerald Kelly guide book which arrived today (brought from the forum store, thanks Ivar). It is great to have an uptodate guide book with good maps... Even if I do need to dig out my glasses to read it. Makes me itchy to go back and start at Seville all over again!

 

[Magwood]

Yes, it's called Casa Camino, and there is apparently a "riotous cafe, Bar Pepe, which does food of varying quality." I am reading this out of the Gerald Kelly guide book which arrived today (brought from the forum store, thanks Ivar). It is great to have an uptodate guide book with good maps... Even if I do need to dig out my glasses to read it. Makes me itchy to go back and start at Seville all over again!

I remember Bar Pepe being the dingiest, most unwelcoming place I have ever entered and the facilities were so dire that I walked cross-legged for the next umpteen kms rather than use them. But that was just a point in time, it may have improved in the last couple of years!

 

[Antonius Vaessen]

I took the shortcut to Tabara two years ago to catch up with friends whowereone day ahead. It was not very nice walking all along the road, with very little space for walkers.
My friends told me that the Camino from Granja to Tabara was very beautiful.

 

[hel&scott]

I remember Bar Pepe being the dingiest, most unwelcoming place I have ever entered and the facilities were so dire that I walked cross-legged for the next umpteen kms rather than use them. But that was just a point in time, it may have improved in the last couple of years!

Actually it had a similar review 9 years ago when we did this route, it as one of the reasons we bypassed it...

 

[mla1]

Last year we also heard from people who had taken the short-cut route along the road that they would not do it again. We also met people who walked to Granja and then skipped the part right after the bridge (because of the flooding last year) and kept to the road after that. My walking pal and I avoided walking in the (very high) water over the rocks by bushwhacking up and over the top of the hill. I don't necessarily recommend it but it is possible and we had quite a bit of fun. It took an age and we did get turned around a few times, and we were happy to be able to check our direction with both the compass and google maps on my friend's ipad.

We also had stopped in the Bar Pepe before Granja. The people were very nice, the drinks were cold on a hot day, but the facilities were definitely challenging.

And, yes to visiting the monastery! When we got to the albergue in Granja - there were signs offering transportation and a guided visit. I can't remember the man's name but he had a remarkable capacity to talk. He drove us out and back from the albergue. The monastery site is fabulous.

 

[Magwood]

@mla1 that sounds like a bit of an adventure. I remember in places that the path was very close to the water's edge - I hadn't thought how it would be if there were floods. Well done for battling through - good that you had company!

 

[sharon w]

Yes, it's called Casa Camino, and there is apparently a "riotous cafe, Bar Pepe, which does food of varying quality." I am reading this out of the Gerald Kelly guide book which arrived today (brought from the forum store, thanks Ivar). It is great to have an uptodate guide book with good maps... Even if I do need to dig out my glasses to read it. Makes me itchy to go back and start at Seville all over again!

The man who runs the cafe is quite rude. He screamed at us when we told him we were staying at Casa Camino.

 

[sharon w]

We didn't walk on the road and when we arrived in Tabara all accommodation was full. I asked several people which way they had walked and they all said "on the road".Jose rang someone who eventually was able to provide us with accommodation.

 

[selbanev]

Thanks to those who replied. I'll make the final decision out on the camino in October, but I can't see myself walking the Tabara short cut. Love your work magwood!

 

[selbanev]

So in the end I did walk the Tabara short cut. I gained a day and saved some mileage, and this meant I was able to shorten some longer/trickier stages around A Gudina - Campobecerros - Albergueria - Laza.

I walked it on a Sunday, so the traffic may not have been as great as a weekday. I left about 0700 in the dark and walked the first 5/6km on the Camino up to the large road junction, where I then joined the N-631 to Tabara. The first few kms on the road are a bit narrow, and there are some tight bends before crossing a high and narrow road bridge over the Embalse de Ricobayo. Lovely views of the resevoir and the colour of the stone banks, now revealed by the very low water level, was spectacular. There looked to be a roman bridge that would be submerged when the water is up. The high and narrow bridge would be interesting if there were some larger vehicles around.

The road and bends in this place reminded me of the road walk out of Aldeanueva up to Banos earlier on the VdLP.

From here the road was wider with plenty of visibility and, for the most part, completely straight. There is a very slight descent and climb around a valley and over that train line with no tracks that we kep crossing.

If road walking is not your thing, this 27km would be a real trial. It is, believe me, unrelieved road walking, with only a few places to walk adjacent to the road on the dirt.

I wore a hi-vis vest and carried a bicycle light clipped to my pack strap. I used the light early in the day and any times visibility was limited on the camino (rain and smoke from the October fire fires!) This day turned out fine and sunny so visibility was very good.

I walked the whole way relying on provisions I was carrying. Two great guys from Wexford walked an hour or so behind me. They had breakfast in Montamarta, a second cafe con leche after 8km at a restaurant immediately after the bridge over the embalse, and then lunch and beer at Pozuela de Tabara after 20km, before the final straight run to Tabara. I was unlucky, because the restaurant was closed when I went past it, and Pozuela was very dead on a late Sunday morning when I walked through. By 1330 Pozuela was open for business and the Wexford duo reported the bar there was loud and busy and one of the best they had seen since Seville. They were in great shape when they arrived in Tabara.

I left 0700, walking slowly in the dark, and arrived in Tabara at 1300 as the church bells were ringing for Sunday Mass.

In rain or other low light conditions things might be a bit different for the pilgrim. There would be more traffic on a weekday, but I must say I found all motorists very considerate. And you do miss the lovely scenery and ruined monastary others have talked about above.

Montamarta was reasonably full the night before and there was a bit of pilgrim talk about the short cut to Tabara. As far as I know, only we three walked the shortcut.