Hello
@Brightmore! I realise I’m resurrecting this thread, to some extent, but I wondered whether you’ve moved forward with your plans, or postponement of them, since April? I only found this thread today but there are many things that occur to me!
First, I want to emphasise that the below is only my own thoughts and experiences, and I’m not in any way trying to push a point on other people. We’ve all navigated the pandemic in the ways we thought best, given the, often confusing and conflicting, information we’ve found or been given.
My own situation is that I live with and care for an 86 year old who is extremely vulnerable and has recently been unwell. We’ve been advised to keep protecting her even though she’s been 4x vaccinated. I myself have a range of health problems including a chronic illness (Ehlers Danlos Syndrome) plus immunity issues relating to severe allergy. I don’t know how Covid would affect me, but I’d really rather not find out mid-Camino, not least because it would prevent the walk as I’ve planned it. I live in the UK, and know that, if you’re in the vulnerable group, it’s been pretty terrifying here.
My partner and I walked from SJPDP to Belorado last August/September, and are about to resume the walk from Belorado to Sarria next week. So… I write with some experience of what things were like last year, but also regarding my intentions for this next part.
I prebook private rooms with private bathrooms, without fail, every time. I have everything arranged for this long before I leave the UK. This isn’t only because of Covid but because I have to sleep in a raised position and dorm beds simply wouldn’t work well for me. But I wouldn’t/couldn’t/shouldn’t take a chance on dorms during Covid anyway.
I don’t know what a dormitory experience of a Camino would be like. This isn’t a bad thing for me. You can’t miss what you’ve never had. I have to accept it, anyway, because of my sleep-position problem. What I can say is that, between the nightly stopping places, my partner and I had an absolutely incredible experience last year, and can’t wait to resume. What made it so incredible was a combination of time with nothing except the land around us—miles of silence punctured only by the calls of birds and the rhythmic sound of our feet—but also time talking with other pilgrims along the route. Faces become familiar over the days. There’s always a ‘Buen Camino’ but, by even the second but certainly the third time, there’s the seed of acquaintance. We talked with many pilgrims whilst walking and outside at cafes, etc. There was often a breeze, and we could keep some distance. I wasn’t concerned during these periods about Covid transmission. I didn’t feel I was missing out on getting close to people. In fact, we got to know several other small groups who were also staying in private rooms, and bonded over this, in some ways.
N95 masks, or FFP2 masks as they’re often known in the UK… Yes, they’re good of course, but you probably know this. I read obsessively about Covid and its transmission for much of the first… well, until quite recently. Rather than FFP2/N95 masks, we use N99 or FFP3 masks when indoors, particularly in the UK or in busy indoor spaces. (For anyone wondering about the research behind this, see, for example, the top section of page 3 here:
https://www.ecdc.europa.eu/sites/de...the-SARS-CoV-2-Omicron-variant-of-concern.pdf ). I did relax this sometimes during our Camino last year, using a fabric almost-equivalent of FFP2s, which are made by the US company Enro; they’re a little more breathable than FFP2/3 masks, which is good in hot weather. I say this having used FFP3 masks during the flight home last year, after which my partner and I were both pinged by the NHS because on our flight we’d been sitting within 2 seats of someone who then tested positive. Neither of us caught Covid. I trust these masks, so long as you can’t feel air escaping from them (the glasses-fogging test is a good one, as I’m sure you know). I imagine you’ll know much of this because you’ve probably been on a similar path to my family’s and my own during the pandemic. It’s hard to discuss it, or know what people know, because the general public has just done what the government says, which has often been… well, I’ll just call it inadequate. Despite that, the measures have eventually worked ok for most people, so I shrug my shoulders and leave it at that.
Last year, my partner and I both felt far safer in Spain than in the UK. I’ve recently visited France and Belgium too, and would say the same about those countries in relation to the UK. The only times I felt ill at ease in Spain was when our eating options were limited, and the available options were all indoors. I hope others here will be sympathetic to me when I say that I was surprised that there were so many pilgrims eating together at long tables inside albergues and restaurants, without much ventilation. Some of the pilgrims at the tables were of course sharing dormitories anyway, but others were staying in private rooms. I am aware that Covid wasn’t much in evidence on the Camino then, so the system must have worked well, but at the time, I didn’t feel comfortable with it and didn’t see how it could make sense given the science of Covid transmission. (Very low rates must have been the answer!). On two occasions, I asked the albergues if there was any way that we could eat outside, and both times, they put a little table out for us and we ate there. It was wonderful! I didn’t feel comfortable with doing this though; on the one hand, I was incredibly grateful to the albergue owners, but on the other, I felt a little embarrassed at their going out of their way for us, and that it was quite conspicuous… I wondered, What if other pilgrims all asked for the same treatment because they’d seen us, and liked our little table? But then again… I find it very peculiar that in warm Spanish weather, people would want to eat indoors! I mean… why do that, when in glorious Spain?! A huge part of the experience, for me, was eating outdoors for once, and enjoying the good weather. Even when it was a little cold, we’d just wear our fleeces and carry on. We’re Brits, of course, and hardy as reindeer when it comes to mildly cool weather
. The Spanish seemed to think the weather was far too cold to eat outdoors and looked at us with incredulity.
The situation now… I’m not yet in Spain but I speak with Spanish people online all the time, and check in here periodically too. My impression of Spain in general now is that many younger people have totally relaxed their behaviour, and some older people too. However it is far more common there, still, to wear a mask. I spoke with a Spanish friend just yesterday about this; he no longer wears a mask, for various reasons, despite being in his sixties, but he also emphasised that we would not seem at all strange if we chose to wear masks. They’re still expected in pharmacies, on public transport, etc, and many people still wear them in other locations. It’s also far more common there to see people in white FFP2/N95 type masks because they’ve been readily available and there’s no stigma, and this is still the case. I’m relieved! Like you, the day when all restrictions were dropped here in the UK felt like my family’s, and my own, restrictions had just tripled.
So… my plan for the next section is to keep wearing FFP3 masks indoors, and in particular on public transport. I might relax this a little if in airier buildings when it’s very hot, and use my Enro masks then.
We will continue to eat outside, or to buy food from supermarkets and grocers. We may eat indoors if it’s unavoidable (I keep thinking of our night at O’Cebreiro, for example), but Ill do all I can to be near ventilation. Maybe we’ll take food to our rooms. I don’t know, but… the Camino will provide. I will do absolutely all I can to avoid inconveniencing other people. When possible, as last time, we’ll buy our breakfasts the day before, including coffee which we’ll drink cold before leaving the accommodation. (I know many pilgrims simply wait for the first town along the way, but I like my coffee and a little breakfast, even if it’s cold).
Regarding the pilgrimage catering to people with disabilities because of the very fact of its being a pilgrimage… the trouble with this is that there is very little that can be done, to accommodate people without actually putting them under a roof? Camping is really the only option, or completely separate and ventilated mini-rooms, but how could this be achieved when there is limited capacity at every historical albergue. It would be wonderful if it were possible, of course!
Other than the above plans for our Camino next week… we’ll chill out! I can’t wait to chat with other pilgrims, to see Spain’s wonderful historical towns and buildings, to experience the meseta, see the wildlife, to enter the greenery of Galicia, and maybe even figure out a couple of my own metaphysical quandaries.
Anyway, this was long but… well, I hope it helps in some way. I certainly don’t mean any of it to sound preachy at all. I completely understand why most people don’t adopt my own approach to this now, and also that information about Covid has been all over the place. I wouldn’t adopt my own approach to Covid, if I weren’t in my situation. That said, I’d like to think I’d understand how difficult this still is for the extremely vulnerable. I do think it’s been an absolute minefield for us in the UK.
PM me if you want. Very happy to talk.
Buen camino, if and when you do it!